Lancia Motor Club

Are there any Appia series 2 (or 1 and 3 series) owners that have the Weber 36 DCLD 3 carb fitted?

I'm interested to know how you start your engine?
When I purchased my C10 ,it had no choke cable fitted, and the start ,hot or cold was without a manual choke.
Your thoughts Gentlemen ,would be most welcome.

Ian

item 66 is the start valve and 38 is the start lever so you need to see if they are all connected. Your car will of had a choke cable perhaps it was too short to reach the correct part of the non standard weber carb you have fitted
Clarkey

Hi

I have 2nd series and have a Weber carb fitted.
It always needs choke and say five or six press of the accelerator pedal as well .
Normally starts first time.
 Along with most Lancia of this period the petrol evaporates if the car is left standing
for a few days. Mechanical pumps are now available with a primer.

I have an electric petrol pumped fitted in parallel with the mechanical pump
which helps on hot days with modern fuel.

Thanks for your replies Clarky, and Will.
There was no cable fitted at all, but the lever is there...........Christo said that he started it without the need for choke.
Those parts 38, and 66 are all in postion and tight into the carb body.....
I spoke to a very nice chap at WEBCON in Sunbury (Weber UK Agents), and he said that lots of owners of twin choke Weber carbs like to start without the choke....
Will, on the point of choke, AND 5 or 6 pumps of the accelerator pedal , and it does not flood??
and is that all weather from cold.?

Ian

I think you should fit the choke cable  as mine always needs choke when the weather is cold in the UK .
You will need to make up a  choke cable should be Bowden cable. The Appia consortium may have some choke cables  ?
5 or 6 pumps of the accelerator pedal perhaps only 3. It never floods the carb.
Does you car have 6 or 8 port cylinder head ?
With 8 port head you really need an electric pump to get your 60 bhp

 

I have already fitted a new choke cable outer from a bycycle part, and then used some piano wire (inner) connecting to the lever to the left of the steering wheel under the dash....
The engine is an 814, with 2 stud fixing, so that makes it a 6 port, I think for series 2??
Can I rely on the distributor cap cylinder markings, as I have changed the HT leads for silicone type....as for the head markings 1-4, they cant be wrong....

Ian

Sounds good any chance of some pictures?
Clarkey

The six port engine should be 812
See attached for photo of my spare 814  eight  port engine.
The distributor and head are correctly numbered

The stamp on the block is 814, but I cant read the distributor number.
The carb start device(choke) is a simple spring loaded plunger which goes into the body of the carb. between the two down tubes.It seems functional . and robust..
I hope the photos are uploaded, as I am having a few problems!!.Two pics of same item.....sorry.
The other photos are of the choke cable installed......one of the underdash, and one of the cable attached to the choke device at carb end.The cable attached to the lever under the dash was connected with an alloy clevis (a type of fork I use on my Radio control model aircraft) with some copper wire and epoxy glue.
I cant see an easy way of making a hand throttle in the same way.....was the series 1 fitted with a hand throttle, but a different carburetor was used. I believe.

The Weber 36DCLD carb.Looks to be in good condition, cleaned and all jets blown out,throttle butterfly spindles no slop, just a bit grubby on the outside.
Apart from Carb cleaner, what do you use to clean up carburetor bodies? :)

a very effective way to clean stained carburettors is to use a small heated Ultrasonic bath cleaner. They are quite effective using either detergent or degreaser.
I think there are some photos of 'before and after' Solex carbs  on one of Simon Ingmans Fulvia posts on this forum.
Chris 

S1 cars like mine have a hand throttle
Clarkey

Good call Chris......Looks like a Christmas present idea?.......First item in the basket.....gotta be those lovely brass wheel nuts..

Ian

An ultrasonic cleaner was my birthday present from Jacky in August. Very useful albeit only occasionally.
Chris

On looking at the under dash shots it seems the brackets for the hand throttle might be there I'm sure we will have a spare lever in the "stores"
Clarkey

On the subject of the Weber carb 36DCLD 3, there is a setting marked E and I......(see arrow point on photo)
The E refers to "Summer"(Estate). and I refers to "Winter"(Inverno).......not sure what it does, but guessing that it weakens the mixture for warmer times...and for colder temps,richens the mix?

The obvious thing to do is remove the screw and see what it does!!!

Its just a case of turning the brass slotted adjuster that turns 180 degrees from I to E........

Has anyone had any experience with the FILTER KING by Malpassi.......
I was not really happy with the all plastic in line filters, so I purchased the "cleanable" metal and glass version.
But have since decided that getting the fuel pressure right, and having a nice big filter is the way to go.

Have been running a filter king for years on my Fulvia HF  never had a problem

Does anyone know if a mechanical fuel pump with a manual lever!! is available for the APPIA series 2.

Contact Simon Ingman for pump. I have a pump on my B12 with priming lever (but v difficult to get to because of the steering tube.

https://www.ebay.it/itm/pompa-gasolio-benzina-Carraro-fiat-topolino-500-B-C-lancia-appia-serie1-2-3/272551269164?hash=item3f7552532c:g:bysAAOSwA3dYm0OY:rk:20:pf:0

cheap!!

The above pump looks pretty good - the ones I have been using (and Consortium pumps) don't have mechanical primers

When we bought our B12 a few years ago from Brescia, it was fitted with a new one of these pumps and all seemed well. We drove around 1,000 km without issue.....but quite gently to run the engine in and then I started to get what became apparent was fuel starvation when driving more briskly.
In the end I fitted an original B20 FISPA pump which I had rebuilt with a new membrane, valves etc and all was well.
The offending pump seemed to be all ok inside but maybe the operating pushrod needed to be a little longer for it....or maybe it just wasn't up to the job?
Chris

Thanks for the replies Chaps......
I think with a manual primer, the starts after a period of non-use can be the answer to starter churning....

On another topic, can anyone suggest a good rust primer(paint)......The area by the horn, and steering box tends to collect water, so a good coat of protection there would be good.


Ian