Lancia Motor Club

Hi ,
Would appreciate a few pointers , as I seem to have run out of ideas with regard my heater on my S3 . Basically it doesn't work , it gets luke warm at best , I tested the matrix & value , by  connecting the garden hose to the hose that connects to the thermostat housing , water goes through unrestricted . I've tried bleeding the cooling system , jacking the front up nice and high , nothing changes , I know the thermostat opens as the housing gets hot as does the bottom hose .  Both the heater pipes warm up very slightly after a decent run , but hardly get hot as I'd expect . It just seems the hot water doesn't flow through them .  At a loss for what to try next ... Any thoughts much appreciated
Cheers Steve

A new heater matrix is probably required. A good radiator workshop should be able to sort this out, Andrea

Hi Andrea,
Fortunately that's the one thing I'm pretty certain is OK , the previous owner had it rebuilt in 2016 by Omicron with a new valve fitted   , and when I connected it to the garden hose I got good flow through the matrix ,m really glad about that , as I'd only just put the dash back together , and really didn't fancy taking that apart . The more I think about it the more I think it's an air lock , and I just need to improve my bleeding process ... been checking out the " Non spill method " shown on You tube ... will give that a go later this week .
Cheers
Steve 

could it just be plumbed back to front?

I was out in my Fulvia coupe (S2) today and it belted out hot air. They do work.

BTW Lancia introduced a bleed valve in the return pipe near the sub frame cross member (that holds the front spring. It is only in the rubber pipe and some times gets damaged and is not replaced. However, I have never resorted to use it. The system bleeds naturally with a bit of patience.

Hi
Yes noticed a “T” piece in the return pipe ,  I think I ‘ll give that a go
Thanks

I have to say that Fulvia heaters are proverbially feeble.  Good luck anyway!

I must have been lucky with all mine over the years (1x S1 4 x S2) then!! I always give them a good reverse flush, make sure the tap is working / not bloked with sealant, and use 50/50 blue antifreeze to limit corrosion. S1 is not as effective as S1 as my current first series Flavia shows. But it still provides heat. We are all used to modern cars able to heat a cabin up in 300metres of driving from cold....

My S3 heater is brilliant. Heats up really fast as well.
I don’t think I ever have to leave it on full power, even in mid winter.

There must be a blockage somewhere in the system. If it’s not the heater matrix it’ll be further back somewhere.

Remove the hoses to the matrix and clean out the drain fitting that’s mounted to the subframe. Mine was full of muck when I first got the car.
Give the whole system a good flush through with a hose pipe.

Another thing to check is the air control flap in the heater box. As well as the water valve the cable from the heater control moves a flap inside the heater box. On max heat all the air is directed through the matrix and on cold setting much of the air is allowed to bypass the matrix.
If you look at the side of the heater box and move the heater control you should see it rotating a lever on the side of the box. Make sure this is moving through it’s maximum travel.

I know this is a bit of an old topic, but I had the same problem and it turned out to be the water rail itself between the head and the carbs was fured up where the heater pipes conected to it.