Lancia Motor Club

Picked up my new Y10 today, having regretted selling the GTie last year I consider myself lucky to have found this LX.
It has only covered around 37,000 miles which appears genuine, there are supplying dealer service stamps right up to 1998 when it was still only around 18k, MoT history seems to back up the low miles it's covered in the last 32 years! Just over 1,000 miles a year....

Love the colour of it, really looks bright and fresh.

The alloy wheels will no doubt give varying opinions, I quite like them but I also have the original wheel trims should I feel the need...

Interior is in superb condition, seats and carpets are perfect, roof lining looks factory fresh.

Front in just as nice condition...

Under bonnet just as nice

Even has the original dealer number plates and rear window sticker,

That's the good news!

The list of jobs to do that I've uncovered this afternoon, mostly to be fair they were known when I bought the car.

Both outer sills need replacing although the rest looks decent,
There are a few rust patches to sort, nothing major that will keep the car from continuing it's life.
A rear wheel bearing,
Rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders,
Rear hatch struts,
Full exhaust system,
Cambelt change,
Full brake overhaul as the pedal goes to the floor, no sign of fluid loss.
Central locking playing up,
Service the engine..

The drivers window apparently falls out of the mechanism when lowered, it appears that the plastic clip that holds the regulator to the glass is missing the retaining piece, feels as though there is nothing on the other side of the white fitting.

Anyone know what the other side looks like, or have a spare?

If I know what it should look like then maybe it's sat in the door bottom, or at least I can search for a new clip..

Also, how does the door handle come off to allow the upper trim to come off?

Door handle upper trim is an oblong with lugs at the sides that clip under the surrounding alcantara. Push them in at the side and lift them up. It helps to raise the door release lever to allow space. Attached is a picture of a new window rack showing the attachment for the glass. I suspect yours has sheared off but I have spares I c an provide. I'm going to north Lincolnshire on Friday in the middle of the day and returning on Sunday afternoon. Might it be convenient for me to swing by your place with a red cross parcel of spares?

That's perfect thanks Frank, thought it must be clipped in something like that but didn't want to force and potentially break it.

That clip for the window I imagine must be properly broken, I'll go out with a torch in a bit and have a look. If you've a spare you're willing to part with that would be great.
Also I will be home Sunday if you wanted to have a look at the car, or I can meet you somewhere, that would be greatly appreciated. I've ordered a few bits today so will probably tackle the cambelt and waterpump as I don't know when it was last changed.

The central locking is making some strange noises too, drivers door just makes some weird noises and even makes a noise like a small electric motor running at times! Passenger door appears to be functioning OK but fails to trigger the drivers side door, so suspect either a failing sender unit in the drivers door or a bad/broken wire in the door to A pillar junctions.

As we suggested before Frank I'd be interested in buying some spares off you, always handy to have semi consumable parts to hand at times, switches, motor's etc, all handy to have. I remember you saying you are almost overflowing with bits!

Checked the window clip Frank and I can feel that one of the prongs that goes through the hole in the glass is missing, so the glass is able to fall out, so I do indeed need a new clip.
Re the central locking I think there's a wiring issue as it started making a real funny whirring noise, as I say like a small electric motor, when I thumped the door near to where the wiring channel is the noise stopped.

About to buy some rear hatch struts, unless you have some good ones? Not overly expensive for new, bought a pair for the GTie last year so don't mind buying new.

The central locking works off solenoids that clunk across so shouldn't have a motor running to my mind. The only motor ought to be the window lift. Might its' being detached from the glass cause the motor to carry on running? You are better off with new tailgate struts as anything second hand tends to be weak. I am not "almost overflowing with spares" They have already overflowed and are filling up laid up cars etc. Would you like to PM me with contact details so we could discuss my calling in on Sunday afternoon?

A big thank you to Frank for calling round this afternoon to not only drop off some very useful parts but to educate me on many interesting points on the Y10, nice to have a 2nd opinion on the cars' condition too.

I've started to get quite a few parts together now so should be able to get started on the car soon.

I think the best thing for the car is to get it up and running nicely, sort the brakes, weld the sills then get the MoT done and run it for a year to see what else needs ironing out. Then set about tackling the few rust spots on it at a later date.

Like so many of the projects I've got stacking up, I can't wait to get started...

Hi,

I'm sure I've got a pair of electric window lifters still kicking around in my workshop if you want me to look at the weekend.

Thanks for the offer but Frank came up trumps with a good used one  8)

No problem.

About time I set about getting the Y10 ready.
Loads of jobs to do but got to start somewhere.
As the cambelt hasn't been changed for at least 10 years that's the first job.
Nice to have decent access and a simple task for a change. As the water pump runs off the cambelt also it got changed too even though it appears OK, not worth the risk.

An oil and filter change for good measure so at least I've no fears now for its running.

The alternator though is overcharging so I'll take it off tomorrow and get it apart for a new voltage regulator to go in.

A couple of places around the front windscreen had let a little bit of water in, at the top where the seal is wrong but also at the bottom where the scuttle is there's now a hole once I'd poked at it. Some silicon sealant will keep the water out for now until it gets chance for a permanent repair.

Inside the air filter housing there's a device for altering the air metering flap from hot to cold air being drawn in..

On mine though its not connected, I assume the end has broken off the control rod.
I can drill out the rivets and make some kind of link between the missing section.
Question is does it normally start off drawing warm air or cold, so which way to make it work, pull or push..

Had a look at my malfunctioning central locking today. It was extremely temperamental and even resorted to making some wierd whirring noise at times!
The strange buzz was actually coming from the relay. Taking it apart I half expected it to be full of water and corrosion but all looked OK.
The inner door handle had one issue, the lock had been pulled up too high and a tang was preventing it going smoothly back down. With that back in correct position things improved but still not fully working. The passenger door refused to play ball at all.
When Frank came over the other week he brought me another drivers lock motor. Fitting that was an instant success.
Car locks and unlocks perfectly, no buzzing or whirring, now even the passenger door works properly!

Next job was the drivers electric window regulator which had lost the tangs on the plastic peg that holds it to the window glass.
Frank had again provided me with a good used item.
I'd noticed though when he came that the passenger one he had with him had broken similarly and since had a hole drilled in the remaining peg.
As my regulator still worked perfectly well I decided to make similar repairs. A hole drilled through, a large rubber and copper washer with a nice tight fitting split pin and all back in order.

Putting everything back together revealed a new problem, the door locking mechanism on the door handle was falling out of the door lock lever slot.
Taking the handle out revealed that the circular portion that retains the guide pin had broken almost half way round

This allows the rotating section to fall off..

My temporary solution is to use half of an electrical connector to lock the pin in place.

Fiddly to get on inside the door but all OK in the end.
Decided it was too risky a repair to have it fail so would have a look for a good used one, but I am amazed to have found a brand new one for a little over £20 Inc delivery!
This little car is winning me over more and more.

Last job for today was to take the alternator off ready for a new voltage regulator.
Car had a new battery fitted when I got it probably due to the old one boiling up from being over charged, they don't like 16V going through them!
The issue it has caused though has most likely resulted in the paint being peeled off and the rust starting around the mount.
Hasn't put me off any, just another little step on the resuscitation of a little gem

One of the joys of a Y10 is that most parts are pocket money prices (Flaminia parts prices have been an education to me!)

Here's a picture of the cold air flap from the air filter housing.

If you make a list of bits you need I can make up  a red cross parcel. I have a shelf of air boxes and a box of door handles so your current needs can be accommodated.

As ever, appreciate the offer Frank.
I'll be sure to be making a shopping list as I go, with the current situation I think I'll be doing more work at home on the Y10 so hope to progress a little bit quicker than anticipated.

Took the airbox flap control out tonight to see if I could come up with a repair.
The unit works just like a wax thermostat, a heat gun warmed it up nicely to check the movement was OK so just needed to figure out a way to make the pin to locate into the linkage.
A thick split pin seemed a good solution, relatively easy to shape but still stiff enough to do the job.

Being cranked over to follow the shape will provide some stability, 3 cable ties held it firmly to the shaft.
Works a treat. Cold and it pulls the flap to cover the cold air intake pipe.

When the element is warmed up, which would be from drawing air straight up from the exhaust manifold, it moves the flap to blank off the warm air and allow the cool. I'd guess in functioning it hovers somewhere between the two positions.

Once I knew it all worked OK I mixed up some 2 pack epoxy and covered the repairs, no reason why it won't last for years.

I checked mine and found it is broken too. I've never noticed the lack of it so presume it isn't actually essential.

I'd say the only time it'd be needed would be in the depths of winter to prevent carb icing, the vapour can freeze if the air is too cold on a really cold day, but with the airbox over the top of the engine anyway it does get a little heat still.

Fitted it back into the housing tonight, fixed with some little M5 flat cap screws and nyloc nuts.

Once the engine was up to temp the flap started to move, as I guessed it seems to sit somewhere between positions to keep the air temperature warmish that goes into the carb.

I'd better sort mine out then!

New exhaust system fitted to the car yesterday, another little box ticked.
I brought a few welding tools and materials home last week so if we go on full lockdown then I can at least do some good at home.
With travel up to my unit not really advisable at the moment I'll use any spare time to get the car MoT test ready, once we're through this virus and can actually use it!
Too windy and bitterly cold today for my liking though  >:(

Trying to get things ready for when I need them, which means sourcing some paint.
Looked in the usual places, under the bonnet and inside the boot but I can't find the paint code sticker, and ideas where it is located?
Searched through the paperwork and it says "dry metallic blue" in handwriting..

Can't believe I didn't spot it on the inner wing strut turret!

New drivers door handle arrived today from the Oldtimer shop in Slovenia, key barrel swapped over and fitted on the car tonight. At least I'll be able to use the handle without the linkage falling off!

It's interesting that your paint code was on the front strut turret. Mine have all been on the inside of the tailgate.

Got some time today so with the weather being favourable I set about the under battery repairs.
With the false bulkhead and battery tray out of the way it became very clear where the rainwater was getting in!

Thankfully most of it looked worse than it was, just a hole in the corner which needed chopping out. The other surface rust I attacked with a knotted wheel on an angle grinder, my theory being that if it survives that it's solid enough. Those knotted wheels are nasty things so great care needs to be taken, but they are perfect for finding any weak areas.

Corner welded up and battery clampdown bolt reinstated then the surface rusted area was treated with Jenolite rust converter that professes to turn rusty metal to clean metal, which to be fair to it it seems to be up to the task. Never used it before so time will tell.

Etch primed it inside and out. Tomorrow I'll seam seal the welds then maybe lay some stoneguard protection on it at the weekend, or just paint it as is. It'll look better just painted for a smoother finish but I'm all for trying to offer the best future proofing I can.
Taped up the vents for now incase of overnight rain.

Grinder out - I'm happy now.

I live by Jenolite, either that or Kurust, but always the version you can paint over. It seems daft to me to convert rust with something you then wash off making the metal wet again. I generally follow it up with a rustproof primer as a belt and braces approach. The corner where you have welded is visible when the bonnet is open so it would look nice painted back in body colour. I have never experienced rust there so once everything is properly fixed it shouldn't be a problem again.

First time using Jenolite, used Kurust before with decent results.
Agree that making bare metal then making wet seems madness!
Incidentally Jenolite is now available from Wilco stores at a much better price than direct from their website..

In the end I just put a layer of seam sealer on, the raised parts where the plastic battery tray will sit, that will provide a better quality of protection.
Gave it a couple of days to dry off and the solvent to evaporate so sprayed it this afternoon. Just with an aerosol as car is at home, basecoat and lacquer so a few more layers of each should provide a good covering.

3 shades so went for standard, hopefully it'll dull down a little and the old paint polish up a bit

So long as it doesn't rust again ...

It's a mystery why it rusted there in the first place as I have never seen such a problem before and all the Y10s I have been familiar with have lived permanently outdoors.

Only thing I can think of is that it may have been parked outside for a number of years but on an uphill slope so that water puddled and couldn't run away. Couple that with some dirt or leaves and it would be enough to cause rot.

The other issue which I've yet to solve could well also be contributory. The alternator is overcharging the battery, stubbornly it is almost 16volts despite my efforts to lower it to the required 13.8v to 14.5v. I fitted a new voltage regulator which made no odds, tried a second different brand to make sure of a functioning item as the first was a cheap ebay item, both produced the same results. Tried it with a different battery just to be sure, same result.
I will change the whole alternator now, hopefully that will produce an acceptable charge level. Maybe you have a good spare to sell Frank?
It's not unreasonable to assume that it could have been like that for some time, no battery charge warning light on so would remain unnoticed apart from getting through a few batteries and I only noticed as I checked the charge rate amongst a few checks I did, so it's entirely plausible that with the battery getting overcharged it would spill the corrosive acid out through the vent hole and down onto the battery tray, attacking the paintwork under the tray.
All the more plausible if Frank says it's not a known weak spot, you'd expect other cars to have suffered with rot there if it was a bit of a water trap given Franks' knowledge on the Y10 I'm confident that the charging issue is more likely.

Interesting how a regulator might cause rot.

I'm sure I can find you an alternator when the current panic is over. Battery acid spillage is a possibility. They have a really good plastic battery tray with a drain pipe that goes down the front bulkhead and past the steering rack but then a chunk of the bund wall is usually cut out to accommodate the clamp which defeats the point.

The battery spillage of sulphuric acid seems more likely now I've heard the corner isn't a known weak point. If you've ever had a battery on charge the vapors easily make the top damp, with the constant overcharging it's not unreasonable to imagine the odd drip or even the extra fumes coming through.

I may also be in the market for a drivers door too Frank unless I can get mine straightened out better. It has been twisted at some point, the fit isn't great. I'll see if I can get it better aligned but replacement may be in order.
The fit to the rear quarter is awful but great to the wing, like the door has twisted evidenced by paint stress marks on the door inner.

My first 1986 Y10 Fire, had rust there but not a serious as this.
But my 1989 Y10 Gtie was fine.
Brian
8227  8)

Colour match not so important now you can hardly see the repair!

Stripped the seats out of the car today so I can peel back the carpets ready to start welding the sills, with the interior being do nice it's far too risky to have a spark or flame licking at it.
Despite having had a leaky scuttle the front floor looks remarkably good.

As does the rear section.
Also with the carpet and soundproofing out of the way it's far easier to keep things in check, and if I need to weld the floor inner side of the sill edge then that's easy now.

Not the best conditions to be welding in laid half on gravel but at least I have a carport to keep the elements off, just if it gets breezy it's like a wind tunnel!

Am confident if there's a breeze you'll work out how to rig a tarb or fence panel or something to kill it...

Yes, it should be fine David.
I've had to do a few cars like this before I rented a unit, my first Alfasud got restored on the same driveway and that was a rough car!

I meant to say that I do have a driver's door spare but I would be tempted to try and bend the existing one back into shape. I have just patched up my door bottoms with stuff I had lying about but once rust is in the fold at the bottom I don't think there's any long term cure apart from cutting off and replacing the bottom of the door skin.

Yes, agree that making this one fit better is a good plan, I tried a little by hand which improved it no end. I've a plan to get it back in shape.

Despite saying I wouldn't touch the car today the temptation was too much to resist.

Little hope in mind that the bottom lip would be useable, which proved correct.
Not all bad though, the metal an inch above still has very good protection so has lasted well.

Front section behind the wing bottom is in decent shape, simple enough to repair. Wing bottom is trash so I'll have to make a new section for that.

Rear section under the rear quarter and back towards the arch needs some work, rear suspension mount area likewise but not as bas as it could have been.

Weather looks vastly improved for tomorrow so I'll make a start on it.

You might as well have that wing off whilst you're about it. (You were probably planning to anyway.)

You're right there Frank, in fact the more I looked at it the more things were adding up.
The rot had, predictably, spread further than first appeared. The layer between the floor and central sill where they angle up together is rotten for a couple inches. Outwardly they looked OK but peeling them apart there's rust between the sandwiched layers.
With work needed in the rear arch near the vulnerable fuel filler coupled with me getting less enthusiastic about laying on a cold gravel drive I've decided to not do the job half cocked and wait until I can get it up to my unit.
No point rushing about doing half a job and leaving rusting bits of floor.
So I'll be taking it apart when the time comes, get the shell up on my spit so I can tip it upside down. Everything will be done, rear arch has a hole so that will no doubt lead to other stuff. Front 'screen needs to come out as the seal is wrong and there's welding repairs needed behind it. If I repair it at the unit too I can give it all a full respray so with a bit of effort it will become a Y10 that should last for years to come.

A shame it won't be running this year but in the long run I'll only have to do it once rather than half a job now and again  in the future.  Most likely I'll start it at years end so welding through the Winter

Doing some digging for parts today I seem to have a spare new windscreen rubber that may be of use to you in the fullness of time.

I was digging about for some parts today and find I have a spare new screen rubber that may be of use to you when the time comes.

Appreciate the offer Frank. I have that new one in the bag that we thought might be a front seal but if it turns out not to be so I'll be in touch  8)

On another note the alternator issue is fixed, turns out the voltage meter I've had for years isn't to be trusted, car is charging spot on perfect now I've used a tried and trusted meter, kind of makes me wonder if it was faulty in the first place, which in turn throws out ,my theory of the charging issue causing the rust issue under the battery...

Haven't totally abandoned work on the Y10, not fully. Had issues with my Alfa 145 so now that the head gasket and cambelt change is done maybe I'll get something more done with the Lancia..

Did refit the rear badges though. The silver lettering had faded a little, badges were already off and thankfully still in the car, on Frank's advice I had a stab at cleaning off the backing material then spraying the back of the badges silver which hasn't come out too bad from a distance..

On doing another little job a week or so ago though on the speedo binnacle I managed to break the light switch Stalk despite already been warned of how fragile they were  :'(

For now, and maybe forever, I've repaired it.
The break was I suspect where they all must break, where the metal insert finishes and it becomes solely plastic..

My repair solution was to strip back 10mm or so of the stalk revealing the square section of metal then drill a hole down the broken stem.

Once reattached with some 2 pack epoxy resin it's actually nice and strong a repair, the stalk was able to rotate the switch OK without glue so with the metal being square in section it allowed plenty of surface area in the glued join to make strong again to be used without fear of breaking.

With the excess glue trimmed off and a quick spray of matt black it looks OK enough and works perfectly.

Bigger fish to fry yet!

I searched online for new outer sills to use rather than patch what I have, stumbled across a UK company offering a pair for around £50 Inc delivery so placed an order with the feeling that I'd get an email saying no longer available, here's a refund.
To my surprise though I did get an email saying that they weren't a stock item, but would be delivered with 1 to 2 weeks if that was OK?
Still fully expected another email saying that they are unfortunately not available after all.
Imagine my surprise to get a notification a few days ago saying my order has been processed and the parts are on their way...
As yet not arrived but more hopeful now... Just hope it's not a pair of drivers side ones!

It's nice to see it creeping forwards. Fingers crossed for the sills. If they turn out to be all right I hope you will share the name of the supplier.

I will indeed Frank, assuming they turn up..
Had asked a place in Hungary who had an OS one but couldn't get a NS, that was at about twice the price just for the drivers side though!

We would like your thoughts on the new panels also... perhaps they do drivers side front wings?
Clarkey

New outer sills arrived today, appear to be great quality. Includes the portion that sits behind the front wing, goes to the door seal lip too so will make a better repair than a skin sill, even get the bottom few inches of the rear quarter panel so no danger of damaging the swage line.

Thankfully a matching pair came!
They do look well made, strong and appear pretty accurate.

New old stock by looks of faded labelso not sure how many more out there.

Came from this place...

https://www.carz2.co.uk/lancia-y10-85--16353-c.asp

Cost was about £52 Inc postage to UK from memory..

I've been lucky having the last couple of months off work on the furlough scheme so have managed to get things in order at my rented unit, the alfa sud restoration is pretty much complete so it's onto the Y10 next.
My friend is coming over on Sunday to trailer it up to my unit for me, today I set about taking the interior bits out such as dash, door cards, roof lining etc.

The rear inner arches have been waxoyled in the past which has helped preserve it, still has daylight in the passenger side though where there was a scab on the outside.

I've one more week off work so plan on making a start on it, was going to be a quick weld and use but with the lack of anywhere much to go in it this summer I'll strip it right back and go through it all, may even drop the engine and gearbox out then fix it to the tilter rollover jig, more effort to get it on it but a huge improvement on comfort of repair, not to mention making access so much better.

Will this be the first Y10 ever to go on a rotisserie rather than just patched?

I was unsure whether to go to the trouble or not but I want this car to have a fighting chance for the future, being able to easily tip it on its side or upside down will make it easier to go the whole 9 yards, not having a deadline to finish it also helps!

I managed to get a pair of those sills so very interested to see how you go about changing the old ones out
Clarkey

Should find out how they fit soon Clarkey  😎

Had to brace the body shell quite a bit to get rid of the flex before I can chop out and weld the sills, now it can be jacked on one corner with wheels dangling but still the doors open and close nicely.

Started to strip out the engine bay so it can be attached to the tilter, the frame I have means all weight needs to be out of it.
I'll post more as the week goes on, as my last week off work so need to press on..

I suppose this is an example of finite element modelling in practice. Take the sill structure away and the car is a jelly!

Some cars you can get away without bracing but not this one. No big problem and good insurance to have anyway as far as keeping alignment.

Power train all out this morning, enough weight out for now. May well strip all the wiring back and paint the engine bay when the time comes. Didn't plan on doing but not a lot more effort to clear it out now so probably makes sense.

Got the rear end cleared out this afternoon, axle, fuel tank, hatch and lights etc. Also took all the weight out of the doors so about ready to be fitted to the tilter.
Got a huge pile of parts to store now though!

How were the spring cups on the back axle? Mine having rotted out and been rebuilt I'm interested to know if they are a general problem or mine was unusual.

At first glance crusty but solid Frank, I haven't got around to checking it out yet but it is very much near the top of the "to do" list as there's a growing pile of parts that I want to get blasted and powder coated, or blasted at least then I can paint them. Rear axle and suspension arms are on the list.

Thanks Kevin. If they didn't have daylight showing through them when the springs were removed they are much better than mine were. My Y10 probably led a less cosseted life.

Axle appears OK Frank, brought it home so I can strip the brakes etc off then get it blasted to be sure.


Managed to get the bracing done for the tilter frames, front end was lacking a bit in decent mounting points so using several half decent points with angles and box section it became sturdy enough. I've had heavier bigger shells on the frame which were just fine so should be OK...

The car is slightly top heavy, probably due to the front windscreen still being in but also because I mistakenly greased the pivots the car tends to want to be either upside down or right way up, normally it can be locked off at any desired angle.

Such as...

The beauty and simplicity of it is being able to have the car held on it's side so work on the floor pan doesn't involve grease and grit in your face whilst trying to hold your head up!
I know it's a pain to strip the car out but I'm seeing it as an oportunity to strip all the sealant back that is starting to dry and split so new can be done, should help the car last another 30 years.... assuming we have any petrol by then!

Sorting out the seam sealer is a really good move.

Might it be worth adding a diagonal bar between the "A" frame and the substitute bumper with a whole row of holes so you can lock the rotation at any angle?

Yes, was thinking something similar myself.
Wouldn't need to be hugely strong so something just to lock in place so it's not tempted to rotate.
I'll rig something up on Saturday when next up there.
Back to work next week so progress will slow to a crawl but happy to have got it started at least.

Well impressed I want one of those tilter things! where did you get it from?
Typical Lancia behaviour the Y10 not wanting to stay where you want it... 
Clarkey

Bought mine from here years ago, it's been chopped about a few times as I originally bought it to use on an AlfaSud, it did 2 or 3 then altered it to suit my integrale, now the Y10!

http://www.mk2mania.com/

Managed to get a little time on the car this afternoon, came up with a solution that allows me multiple positions to secure the car at, all the angles I'll be needing to get the sills and floors done.

Once that was sorted the time came to start chopping out the original sill, always a feeling of trepidation with the point of no return looming but has to be done.
To get the old sill off the door step join I drill through just the outer skin taking care not to go through the inner piece so I've enough material left over that's not full of holes!
Then make a slit either side of the spot welds and the little tags can be easily twisted off, no distortion and no chiselling or hammering.

Manged to get a decent fit along the door gap, temporarily with clamps for now as I will need to make the bottom edge first but I need to have the fit right on the step and door gap first, no point in creating a solid bottom lip to the floor if that means the sill is crooked or doesn't fit the door correctly.

New sill also comes with the swage line for the rear quarter which is nice, means you can join higher up the quarter panel and not have to create a fiddly groove.
Really impressed with the quality of the sills especially for the money.

As I say though, a bit of fresh air to fill in on the floor side but now I know where I need to build to it will make life simpler. Being able to do that work with the car upside down and not with me laid underneath will be almost a pleasure...
Back to work next week so that'll hold up progress. Been spoilt the last few weeks on furlough, but it allowed me to finish the alfasud and get a start on the Y10 ahead of schedule, didn't expect to be able to get started until the autumn.

I like that "slot and twist" technique.

Most informative...I see what you mean about the fit and quality of the new sills and why it makes sense to cut the old one right off.
Clarkey

Do you have pictures of the old sills showing the extent of rot? It would be interesting to see where the rot is and how far it goes. I have generally found the problems relate to the seam where they attach to the floor but haven't removed one to see what else might be going on behind the scenes. The perennial problem with Y10s is improper jacking that bends this seam, breaking the underseal and admitting water in the vulnerable area behind the nearside front wheel. It means the problem is as much in the perimeter of the floor as in the bottom of the sill.

The technique for removing a row of spot welds is one I've used for some time having tried numerous different ways, breaking it down into individual little sections allows for the spot welds to be removed with absolutely minimal risk of damage to the remaining flange, unlike when using an air chisel or a hammer and chisel, the pieces twist off very easily and without distorting the flange.

The old sill was generally in good order, the rot was restricted pretty much to within a few inches of the lower seam as Frank suggests.
I did consider leaving most of the original on the car and cutting what I needed from the new sill but that means you have a joint to tidy up, using it all up to the door seal means your welding is on the flange that's then covered by the seal and you get a nice fresh door step.
The other issue was a hole in the top edge about where the front corner of the door sits.

With the new sills it pays to balance out how much of the panel you use and how much original car you leave on, nothing in the rules says you have to use the whole sill. I cut a good couple of inches off where it goes behind the front wing as it keeps the joint lower down away from the door hinge and it being completely rot free there was no point in going higher, a joint was needed wherever it may be so just make it where best suits.

I have kept the main section of removed sill so it can be given to the paint suppliers to get a colour match as there are a few shades of the blue available, even though I'll be spraying the whole car and probably the engine bay too I'll try and match the correct shade. I'll take a snap of the inner side of the panel next time if needed.

James, have you tried a zip cutter for cutting out the spot welds?
Brian
8227  :o

I've been sorting through a few parts today getting an order ready. One thing I'd always planned on doing was replacing all the brake components especially the hydraulics as the pedal was awful so a full go through was in order.
One thing that can get overlooked is the rubber flexible hoses. They have a habit of collapsing internally which restricts the flow, in worst cases they cause the brakes to bind on. The hole where fluid is supposed to be able to travel through gets very restricted especially around any clips, check out the virtual pinhole that was on the front one when I cut it open, so restricted that the fluid inside the flexi wouldn't even flow out! That has the effect of holding the brakes on slightly. I'll be replacing everything on the hydraulic system..

Also I did a bit of cleaning parts using the electrolysis method. Even brings up the rusted cast iron caliper brackets like new. Did a few bits and pieces, cleaned and sprayed with red oxide for now. Once I get them all done I'll paint with 2K jet black paint, did consider getting bits powder coated but as there ended up being well over 20 pieces I thought a bit of elbow grease would keep the expenditure down, and gives something to do in the shed.

A timely warning about brake flexi hoses. I replaced all mine just before lockdown and haven't had the chance to try them to see the improvement yet.

Could you give more detail on your electrolysis de rusting. Are you using a battery charger and washing soda?

The electrolysis process is pretty simple and doesn't require a big expensive outlay unlike setting up a grit blasting cabinet which needs a very good compressor with a high cfm flow to keep it fed.
All that's needed is a tub, some angle iron, bits of cable and a standard battery charger.
This is my small set up which has done numerous bits over the last few years. Especially handy on delicate parts that a blaster could easily damage. Also it's only the rust that comes off so unlike a grinder that also takes good metal you take off the bare minimum leaving only good metal.

The bucket has 4 pieces of old angle, dexion shelving brackets in this case, which are screwed to the sides vertically and fairly evenly spaced, number isn't overly important I don't think but this seems the average. You then link all the tops together in a circle.
Attach the battery charger positive lead to the circle of cables and suspend the piece to be cleaned with the negative terminal attached but out of the water. Best to use a wooden or plastic pole to rest it off as you don't want it to touch the angle irons and short circuit things!

Child's play:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIAi1M9X8s8

I read that soda crystals are the best to use in the water which I tried first and worked OK, then when I wanted to use it again I tried it with Daz washing powder which I feel works just as well and is always to hand, Mrs frowns when I kee taking a scoop down to the shed though!
Bonus is it makes the shed smell of fresh laundry as the water warms up and froths up!

Today I took the bottom ball joints out of the hubs so I could get the rust off and paint them. I'll be fitting new joints back in so I don't have to go back to the job in years to come.

One I'd taken  wire brush to to see how good it comes up with a little scrubbing alone, very poor result and getting in the corners is near impossible.

The one I'd left alone got a session in the tub tonight, takes a while for it all to come off but as you can simply plug it in and walk away then it's no effort. This piece took a couple of hours to get clean, once out you just scrub it with a wire brush under the tap and the rust falls off.
The one on the right is the one I'd not touched so was covered in scaly rust, now very clean steel.
You must dry the part off and paint straight away though, if left damp bare metal rust will form in hours..
Gets all the details to shine through..

As David points out, there's loads of instructional videos on youtube and the like.
A very simple process that is very kind to any piece so especially handy on delicates.
One of the first pieces we did was on my lads Hillman Imp ashtray that had rusted badly inside the car. A delicate little piece that wouldn't have survived being blasted and too tight in corners to sand or chip away by hand. This process got it sparkling in about 15 minutes and as we painted it straight away it's been fine since, nothing I've done in this way has had rust return.
There's people that have created a mini swimming pool in their back gardens and put whole chassis in! Took about a week and a big charger but it worked!!

DAZ is a good tip.

Kevin seems to be doing OK with thick and creamy mayonnaise!

Bonus is going in the shed tonight it smells of fresh laundry instead of paraffin  ;D

Day off work tomorrow so hope to do a bit more welding

The sill repairs were started at my last visit, taking back anything that remained rotten looking or even a little suspect is the key to a long term repair. At this point there is no sense in not having a good look at it as I really don't want to be doing it again in a few years so whilst it's apart make sure it's all looked over.
A section aside the rear suspension mount looked one such dubious area, not stand out rusted but from what I could see it needed to be investigated.

As you can see it was worth the effort, even though it looked OK on the inside the side that was open to the elements was less so..
Once cleaned up it got treated and welded fresh metal in place.

Once that was welded up I attached a new length of angled steel which will become the datum point for where the sill bottom lip will fit, everything will be built from that. Sections to join it to the floor were welded in.

Today one end of the cross reinforcer bar needed to be repaired so that was first task to make and weld it in. A small piece let into the floor too where another bit of rust was hiding.

Next was to make the repair pieces to weld the new bottom lip to the inner sill, spot welded where I could as it saves time and looks better plus I wanted to try and get the bottom edge tightly spot welded together with the 3 new layers.

Time finally came for the outer sill to be welded on, again spot welded where I could.
The joint to the rear quarter was butt welded with the mig, same for in the doorway and around the front pillar. There was also a little tag reinforcer bracket that comes down from the rear quarter but was too far in for the spot welder arms to reach so just simply drilled holes and plug welded through.

Underside will need a little tidying and seam sealing but I'll do all that later when it comes to cleaning all the old sealant off.
Spot welds anyone? My idea of a job well done, sorted once the weld is made and doesn't need grinding and cleaning up.

Multi layers means multiple spots...

The question was asked a while back as to what condition the main sill section was in that I'd cut off instead of just repairing the bottom rotten section.
As can be seen it was still like new, so why cut it out?
We'll, it's now got new metal that I know is good all within the sill cavity and the weld joins are out of sight, aside from the rear quarter joint of course. Should all last for many years to come once painted, sealed and protected.

Next visit I'll make a repair for the bottom of the wing and the rear inner arch to cap in for the sill then onto the other side.
These sills are very good, nice fit and well made.

great stuff Kevin!!!

Bet you're pleased you didn't do it on the drive but waited to get it indoors on the spit.

It is so much easier in the long run to do it this way, no scrabbling around on the gravel and being able to rotate the car so it's comfortable to weld when you'd be trying to keep sparks from your ears is very refreshing!

At home today so in between tasks I'm keeping the parts tub going with cleaning up some smaller parts ready to be red oxide painted then once I get them all done I'll spray with 2 pack black paint to freshen things up.
Some before and after shots, simplicity is you don't have to do much work to get them rust free.

Took the rear axle to the guy in the village who does blasting and powder coating. He's going to just blast the axle and spray it with red oxide for me mainly because the centre Bush I'm not replacing as it's in perfect order so couldn't be powder coated with that left in but also because I didn't want a layer on the hubs where the bearings go as it would need grinding back so easier just to spray it with 2 pack paint so I can mask the hubs up.
I've also taken a few bits and bobs including the front panel which will be blasted and powder coated.
Should have all the stuff done in good time so I'm not waiting for anything when it comes to be needed.
Back to the unit tomorrow so some more welding is in order.

I have had a front panel powder coated but after a few years rust started to come again from the seams. I might mean the powder coater was no good but this is just a heads up make sure it's done properly.

Anything with a seam can be an issue yes, I wondered about having it powder coated but I wanted it blasting to rid the rust.
Guy I've used in the village before and he does do a good job but it's if the rust can be reached in the seams. If not its just sealing it in.
I might have a look when I get it back, might be able to make a hole in any seams then fill the layers with rust prevantive material of some sort.

I think it's particularly vulnerable because it's straight in the blast of salt spray etc hitting the front of the car.

I'd say you're right on the money there Frank, like radiators that get bombarded by flies and salt spray it takes its' toll eventually.
Guess making it a 5 year refresh plan is an option  ;D

Managed to get a few hours on the car this afternoon once the motogp had finished, the wait for bike racing to start again has been torture.

First task was to make a new wing bottom. Once made and welded on a mounting point was fitted to the sill, I use a rivnut tool which is easy to make captive nuts in places like this, I've some nice M5 cap head screws that will do the job nicely.

Lower inner wheel arch to the sill needed closing in then, a panel made up and then drilled with a 25mm hole cut in which I've new rubber grommets to suit, enables easy spraying into the sill cavity every couple of years in the future.

Sorry - can't work out the mounting point and rivnut bit...

It's more on the underside of the sill, not that clear on there. It'll become clearer another time.

It isn't in the pictures. The bottom of the front wings, between the wheel arch and the door, is held on with a screw. The screw goes in to the panel behind which is the front closing panel of the sill. A captive nut has to be provided in this closing panel for the wing to screw onto hence the use of a rivnut.

For David, the view of the drivers sill with the rivnut mounting point  ;D
Now all fully welded and cleaned up with temporary red oxide aerosol paint to protect it whilst it awaits the proper etch primer then sealant for the welds before the stonechip protection and paint.

With work being on a part time basis at the moment with the covid situation it is allowing me to get more done to the car, well this week at least I've managed to get another spell on the car.
The passenger side needed much the same process, floor to sill joint cutting away, floor needed repairing and the sill lip to inner sill repairing. A couple of days making that solid meant today I could finally attach the outer sill so now both sills are on, floors and inner sills repaired with just the end of the sill at the rear arch to cap in. That job was left for now so I could get plenty of paint spray into the sill cavity, with the car both right way up and upside down so it flows into both flanges.

The floor on the passenger side was a familiar story with the other side as far as repairs needed were concerned, even dwn to the same rearmost outrigger needing cutting apart whilst the front one was still OK.

The car will sit upside down now until I get back there, probably not until Wednesday next week when I'll finish off the rear of the sill / inner rear arch repairs then make the mount for the lower front wing fixing, so that will be the sills done.

The passenger front wing isn't as bad at the lower edge as the drivers one was, but it will need to have a repair made up for the arch lip almost to the apex.

Once that job is done then the rear inner arches will be cleaned up fully whilst the car is upside down. Despite my thinking it is still solid in the rear corners I'm now sure it won't be, amazing how much more you can see when it's shiny side down, but that brings its own tasks. Repairing it whilst on the stand though won't be sensible as it's far too close to the point where I have mounted the frame, cutting out metal next to that with the weight of the car hanging next to it would no doubt end in disaster so I'll have to make do once it's back on axle stands, at least I can do it without the axle being in the way so shouldn't be as bad as it could be....  ::)

Rear of the passenger sill got boxed in today, all standard stuff as per the other side. That's the sills all but done.
With the door back on the wing could be mounted and a new bottom section made for it then the mount let in the sill. All lined up nicely.

You may notice some nasty scabs around the wheel arch, they looked worse than they were for a change! Fully expected to find some holes but even the underside wasn't bad at all.
I could have cleaned and treated it and hoped it'd be OK but for the sake of a bit more effort I cut the bad metal out and made a new arch edge. At least I know it'll be fine instead of hoping it will be.

Back in the day people used to weld the bottom of Minis by rolling them on to their roof on an old mattress or some old tyres (you probably have access to the latter!). I wondered if you could do something similar by packing under the roof and detaching the rotisserie frame while you weld up the back corners? I recognise the possibility though that Minis' had a much heavier grade of roof so a Y10 might be too flimsy to take that treatment.

It's not far for it to reach the ground so is a possibility, the risk of having some big dents to sort in the roof afterwards so sort out not so appealing  ;D
I wonder if there is somewhere that the body could be supported at the back though, worth investigating  8)

Trestles and beams through the door openings might work as the weight would then be taken by the sills.

That could work Frank, especially as the weight would be hanging down so less likely to want to flip over.
I'll have a look at it on Tuesday when next working on it.


Been at work all day today but went up to the unit tonight to spray all the bits and pieces I've been cleaning, electrolysis rust removing and painting over the last few weeks. Painting them tonight and leaving to hang up will allow them to be nicely dried off by Tuesday where they can have a few more days hanging in the big unit, the 2pack paint dries nice and hard but without a heated booth it takes a little longer to be fully damage resistant.

Anyone for a game of guess the part?  ;D

In total there was 25 pieces, still a few bits at the powder coaters which will come back ready to fit but they're blasting the rear axle and red oxide spraying it for me so that will need painting. I didn't want powder coat on the bearing surface to have to clean off plus the centre mount bush is in great order so that could stay in.

It would be cheating for me to play guess the part.

 ;D Thought you know them all

All the underfloor stuff is now removed and I've started to clear away the old underseal and rubberised sealant, which is a really messy and time consuming job, two days into the process so far..
Thankfully the floor is in really good shape, a couple of areas where the sealant was starting to let go but a bit of treatment is all that's needed. Only area so far that I've uncovered to need welding is where the fuel filler tube sits there was a piece of protective rubber sleeve on the chassis seam which had trapped moisture, shouldn't be a bad job to weld up.
Hoping to get the rest of the floor cleared tomorrow then I'll weld that area and clean the rest. It will be etch primed then seam sealed before stoneguard renewed all over. I've decided to paint the underside in body colour rather than it be done black, or in underseal.

Why is it work gets in the way so much!
But seriously, being on part time furlough has been really beneficial to keeping the pace reasonable, apart from being full time this week...
Did manage to get the afternoon on the car today so with the final pieces of the rubberised sealant finally removed and everything cleaned up it could be etch primed.

Once that had dried off enough then seam sealer was applied to all the welds, this will take a little while for the solvents within it to evaporate before the stonechip can go on but with the heatwave it should be dry by Saturday when I'm next up there.

Picked up the bits from the powder coaters today, they'd been done for a couple of weeks but never got aroundd to collecting them with everything else distracting me.
The front panel looks great in fresh black coating but the lower ledge has suffered a bit with rot. Still solid enough to use I think, I'll see what bits are important. Otherwise it'll need to be welded and redone.

Hopefully nothing important... Looks like maybe the radiator mounts go here? Can't recall now..

Rear axle has mostly come up well, I'd asked them to just blast it and red oxide spray it.
Only bit, predictably so by Frank, is a bit of rot on the little spring alignment turrets.

Not much nicer from the underside

Other side not as bad but will end up needing the same repair..

Plan will be to cut them off from the underside where they've been welded to the axle itself.
Then I'll probably salvage the top inch or so and make the rest out of new 2mm steel. Probably try and work in a couple of draining slots to try and let the moisture out.

I've also got the springs, rest of the front suspension arms, anti roll bar and rear bumper brackets back. Most bits are now ready for the refit, once I get the car ready!

This afternoon I finally got chance to cut the spring cups off, the axle itself is still very solid and once painted it will be fine

I cut a circle of thick steel for the base with the plasma cutter, never have been very good at drawing circles! Then a band of 1.6mm steel formed into a circle to replace the inch or so cut out, top half was fine so it's just where the rubber spring seat had been holding the damp. I've purposely left the band short so there's an escape route for any moisture.

Securely welded back to the axle, both sides the same process.
Gave it a clean and some red oxide before I left so on Saturday it will be dry enough to be sprayed with the 2k black paint as per the rest of the suspension.
I'll also aim to spray the underfloor of the car so a painting morning to come!

I put a cut out in my horizontal flange to allow water to flow down the drain lip in the axle (I have a feeling this must have been in the original that I removed). I'd check there will be a clear path for drainage under the spring seat rubber or you may have created a new water trap.

There's a notch in the base of the axle itself to let any water away rather than it collecting around the base, a slot in the repair too so I don't forsee any future troubles. I have made sure there's plenty of paint going in between the repair and the axle, it'll also get some rust preventative wax in there, not waxoyl as I'm not a fan of it as it seems to dry and crack.

Change of my plans today meant a free afternoon so went up to the unit to spray the underside rather than tomorrow which has rain forecast, dry and warm meant I could paint without the heating on.

Colour matched by the paint suppliers in a straight solid colour rather than a basecoat and lacquer is a decent match for the underside, the topside of the car and wheel arches will be done in the correct stuff but this was easier and quicker.

Also hung the axle up and painted it so it can hang there until next Wednesday. Might then bring it home so I can build it up in the shed, but then again building it up on the car means it's easier to lift into place!

It all looks to be coming along wonderfully Kevin.

What is your preferred brand of wax for rust treatment?

If that's "a short cut" and a "compromise".....   Lovely seeing this work.

"Colour matched by the paint suppliers in a straight solid colour rather than a basecoat and lacquer is a decent match for the underside, the topside of the car and wheel arches will be done in the correct stuff but this was easier and quicker."

Car is now down off the tilter so now the work can start on the rear arches where a bit of rust was evident around the bumper mount area. Also had a small hole in the outer quarter panel where someone had previously attempted to repair it.
A rusty scab behind the light fitting soon revealed more grot once the knotted wheel had a dig.

I use tetrosyl car plan stuff, seems to last well and provide good protection, easily applied with a schuttz gun which I keep aside just for that job, fogs up nicely inside cavities

Thanks David  ;D

The rear outer quarter got cut out which revealed the expected grot.
The led light underneath the arch coupled with the dodgy phone camera makes the arch look very blue!

Once the inner arch was cut back the bumper bracket was next as there was rust underneath it which needed assessing.

Just had to keep cutting until I got back to clean steel, or a mixture of clean steel and fresh air!

The bumper mount I've brought home with me as it is saveable but needs some rust cleaning off so the electrolysis tank will take care of that. Thinking I ought to invest in a small blast cabinet as although it's handy to do bits using electrolysis it would be easier still for small items like this to be able to blast them on site.

I said the back corners were fun!

LOL,
Yes, I thought of you Frank when taking it all apart, didn't look too bad when we viewed it at my house did it!
You were on the money again though , bad area for rust on the Y10  8)

Started to make the repairs..
First little patch made the corner firm again on the reinforcing bracket.
After that a new lower inner arch to floor section went in.

Bumper bracket that I'd cleaned up last night then went back on.

Left that primer to run into the crevises and soak in so I'll make a new outer repair section next time and box in the inner wheel arch. Seam sealer will have gone off by then too.

I'll seam seal the inside once the welding is finished

With that drying I did a couple of tasks that keep getting put off, painting the last few bits of brackets and then separated the engine and gearbox to have a look at the clutch, needs a new one really while all apart.

The outer repair panel took some making, loads of differing waypoints that needed to be in the correct place.
Got there in the end, using clico fasteners so I could keep alignment accuracy whilst fettling it to fit.

Rear lamp was used as a guide for the fold alignment.

With the outer in the right place I could make up the inner section, now I knew where it needed to be made to!

Straight folded edge piece spot welded to curved outer repair panel, I'll be able to fix it all together next time as I've applied primer all over the inner pieces for as much protection as possible, some will of course get burnt off but you've got to try!

Got the front windscreen out today also, not without cracking it in numerous places though, anyone know where they're available from?
Might try and get it on the insurance though..
Some rust to repair..

Knew about the grille having rust, seems like it will be an awkward repair, bound to be rusted down the fins..

Passenger side rear quarter repairs done now, very happy with the outcome.

Started on the drivers side now, rust is worse on the bumper mount reinforcing bracket but rest pretty much the same

Bracket had just the bottom half useable which handily is the main piece, top half I'll remake to suit.

Work continues, drivers side rear quarter repairs on the menu today.
Not as much of a blind alley now I've done one side.
Corner piece welded in once I'd got down to the solid metal that is.
Then a repair piece for the inner lower panel to join to the reinforcer.

The salvaged bottom half of the bumper bracket mount then needed fitting, and the missing upper section making as this side is also the towing bracket so needs to be strong..

Not as per OE but strong enough and fit for purpose

Just had time to make up the outer skin..

Fit is decent again using the rear light as a guide and measurements taken before cutting the old one off..
I'll make up the inner sections tomorrow before the outer can be welded into place..

Today I repaired all the inner sections to box the rear inner arch in.
Then the outer skin went on.
Sounds simple but needed to keep making bits and trial fitting but I got there.

Trial fitted the bumper and rear lights, happy to say it all lined up nicely.

All ship shape at last with no rot left at all. Should be good for a number of years to come.
Next visit I'll start on the windscreen surround, most of which will be fairly straightforward apart from the section at the vents...

Drivers side windscreen corner rust repairs now started..

Making my way around the windscreen surround now, not as bad as it could be. Just small pieces that need replacing, rest is cleaning up OK.

All across the top cleaned up just fine using a knotted wheel for the rough stuff, then a carbide bit to dig into the pitted bits then a hand held grit blaster to clean the remainder up got it back to all good clean metal.
Passenger side had a couple of spots that looked a little thin after the same process so just simpler to cut it out and weld in new metal whilst at this stage.

Worst bit around the vents now repaired, thankfully it hadn't spread down too far..

All welded in and smoothed out.

Corner finished off too so that's all the windscreen surround finished off.

Amazing work as ever, Kevin.
You make it look so easy....... :)
 
Tim

I was thinking of sneaking my car into Kevin’s garage and hoping he didn’t notice 😂

Cheers guys, very much appreciated  8)

With all the stuff in the unit I probably wouldn't notice another car  ;D

It's not sneaking it in that's the problem, it's to get Kevin to do the work without realising it isn't one of his ;D
Brian
8227  8)

Yes, even I might notice that one  ;D

Here's an example through the next few posts of how a little "surface rust" is actually and usually the surface of a much bigger problem...
The drivers door had a scab along the bottom of the outer skin and some rust on the underside of the bottom plate..

The holes in the bottom plate obviously mean that needs replacing but on looking inside the door the "surface rust" was on both surfaces!  ;D
So nothing for it but to chop out the outer skin to reveal the horrors inside..

The further along I looked I couldn't see an end to the rust, nothing as bad but still rusted so couldn't be left, so nothing more to do that cut it all off..

Most of the bottom plate needed replacing apart from at both ends where strengthener plate sits, also there was rust up onto the edge up towards the door card aperture on one half so that needed replacing too.

Then finally an outer skin could be fabricated for the bottom 2" or so. Door fitted back to the car along with the wing so I could make sure it went on square and to match the new sill. Use of the clico fasteners means it will go back in the same place for welding once back off the car.

Bottom of the door skin repair panel got a folded flange as per the original skin which is bonded into place, a layer of seam sealer will tidy it up when the primer has dried.

All this effort for a bit of rust on the outside and a few holes underneath. Would have been quicker and simpler to have put some fibreglass filler in rather than spend a day and a half welding it but this way once all painted and treated it should last for years to come.

I presume you will reinstate the three drain holes before painting.

Well spotted Frank!
All in hand  ;D

Canvassing opinion, rear hatch should I know be black but I must admit it's one feature I don't like mostly because it looks like one of those cars that people just put a new panel on but don't bother painting.
so the question is can I get away with doing it body colour, or should I stick to originality and paint it black...
Incidentally is the original black a Matt black, or Satin? Pretty sure they weren't a glossy black?

I'm with you on that one, Kevin. I like to see cars 'original' but also think the matt black hatch makes the car look like an unfinished repair job; I have seen several Y10s with body-colour rear hatches, and to my eyes look much smarter.

Series 3 Y10s had a contrasting colour hatch rather than black. I had this dilemma with the Yntegrale which is metallic gold in colour. In the end I went with body colour, but mostly because it also has a tailgate spoiler - if I’d left that off I would have gone for a metallic black!

I don’t go with the Y10 looking unfinished, just ahead of its time. VW Up have black tailgate while the Seat and Skoda versions are body coloured - but the Up is glass covered

But it’s your car.....your choice

The original tailgate is satin black. To me it is a signature feature of the car but, as Kevin says, it's your car so your choice also a bit of individuality never did any harm. As far as originality goes it's easily reversed so there's not anything to worry about..

Glad it's not just me that finds it irksome!
Also agree that other companies have now copied the idea, as they have done with most Lancia ideas, eh  ;)

Satin Black not matt, that's interesting and potentially a bit better. I also hate the trend of recent years for matt finished paint, just makes me want to polish them. At least a satin finish has a bit more about it.
Hmn...

Kevin,
I put a new old stock tailgate on my Gtie back about 2006, and like you I wasn't fussed with the matt black, so I had mine painted metallic black and I thought it was a great improvement.
At the time I also did away with the tailgate lock  so it could only be opened from insides, besides being better from a security point of view, I never used to use the key to unlock it anyway.
Trevor can also confirm that with series 2, special models were released that had a plastic? Clear tailgate which had the panel the same as the interior trim, I thought it looked great and really stood out.
Brian
8227  8)

That's a good compromise, a nice metallic black will at least look shiny!
I just hate the thought of it looking like an unfinished car, but it was a feature I guess,,

I guess the question is coming down to finding a very dark grey or graphite or something which to your eye "is a colour" rather than "a bare panel"...

I haven't posted anything for a while but I have been working on the car still, just it's been at the fairly boring stage of rubbing down, filling and generally straightening out all the bodywork.

One panel I had overlooked was the rear hatch. There was some rust under the glass corners, surprisingly!  ::)
Given my failed attempt to get the front screen out I thought best to let the professionals take the glass out for me, which thankfully they managed without drama.

The rust needing repair then became clear.

The worst rust was on the inside face of the hatch, as seen here before the glass came out..

Worse than the rust on the inner portion was that the underside of the inner panel felt to be just as rusted, so somehow I needed to get at it.
Although the outer skin needed a small repair to the seam it wouldn't allow me access to the inner skin to be able to successfully blast it.
My solution was to cut the inner skin completely off so I could treat it properly.
First thing though was to make the repairs to the outer skin whilst I had a reference to work with to recreate the seam.

Both sides were about the same so once welded in the inner skin corners were cut away, seems to be a bit radical but the only way to tackle the rust properly.

With both corners removed I did consider the simpler and quicker route of blasting them but they were fairly delicate and needed care to be able to be reused, making new ones would be pretty tricky.
So they went into the electrolysis tank until all the rust was cleaned off which thankfully they survived without anything more than the odd pinhole which was welded up.
Once cleaned they welded back in OK making sure to be aligned as the oblong slot holds the electrical connections.

Front inner wings needed to be stripped of the rubberised coating as per the floor but for once this didn't reveal any issues so although it took ages to do it didn't create anymore work!
Engine bay also stripped of all clips etc as that too will be painted.

At long last the time came to get the primer on, again a not insubstantial task made to sound simple..

The debate over what colour to do the rear hatch and back panel has had me thinking of all sorts of ideas over the last month or two.
As I said before I don't particularly like the satin black look despite that being the factory finish, too much like an unfinished project to me.
I had serious thoughts of just doing it all body colour but non other than JR swung the decision in favour of at least honouring the OE aspect and doing the back bits black. A guy who rents another unit next to mine gave me some Peugeot metallic basecoat to try and an old sill was done to see what I thought. Painting it all with normal clearcoat rather than a satin finish convinced me it will be the right choice, for me at least.

So as this is a full update this is what I ended up with on Wednesday evening, finishing quite late as it happens due to the 3 stages of painting with the two different colours then needing to clearcoat everything, spray gun needing stripping and cleaning after each stage..

I'll indulge a few shots, quite chuffed at the outcome.
Think the black and normal, shiny clearcoat rather than satin lacquer works for me  8)

After all the work on the sills and the rear arches they've come out very nicely

Did the inner arches too so it all matches

Even inside the boot where the repairs were done, plus the window ledge as that's visible so needed to look fresh

Even the rear hatch inner repairs came out OK

Now the paint is on I can relax a bit, been fighting the impending bad weather so happy this stage is done.
Lots of parts are already refurbished ready to be refitted so it shouldn't take forever to rebuild, I've given myself until the end of February as there's a little job on my lads Hillman Imp that needs doing in March so it's ready for the season next year, looks like the Y10 will be able to get out too.  ;D

Nice Episode 1 in Nov VL for posterity!!!

Thanks Tim, always worry about sending stuff in for the magazine, there's an awful lot of detail I could send in but I try to condense it enough so it doesn't end up like War and Peace! But still ends up feeling a bit too long winded.
Sent off part2 yesterday to Jack which he keeps saying is an OK balance so we'll see.
Apologies to anyone who feels it's raking too much magazine space up. But the little Y10 deserves to get some press time in my humble opinion.

Don't apologise. VL needs member input (nudge nudge)......

Looking great Kevin if it was not for this lockdown I would have come down to see it in the metal.
Clarkey

Yesterday and today I've sanded back the paint to get rid of the dust that my less than ideal spraying conditions unfortunately always ends up with, not to mention the wildlife! Not having a proper airtight spray booth and worse still, doing it in the same place as where the welding and prep is done means issues are inevitable.

Several processes of sanding starting with 1500 grit wet and dry paper followed by 3000 grit discs on a DA sander, which seems odd to use on new paint! Then a series of differing machine polish stages.

Happy with the outcome though.

Doors all done whilst on the stands, bit nervy first time I did them on there but you get to trust they are on securely and won't fall off!

Wings though I did take off my home made spraying stands, they would definitely not put up with the vibrations of the polisher!

I need to get a new sticker for the paint code, does anyone know where they can be bought from?
My other option is to take to the printers, they've done stuff like this for me before so maybe they could do this.

It's going to be stunning when it's finished. It's a gorgeous colour.

This is fantastic work, and I agree with Frank - it's going to be beautiful when finished.

Been sorting out a few bits ready to start the rebuild soon, a lot of parts ready for fitting but as ever the details need doing.
One thing I'd been meaning to do for a while was to make some fuel tank straps as mine had rotted away.
Some strips of 1.6mm steel cut to length, washers welded for reinforcement of the ends and it should be fit for purpose.
I've since cleaned and painted it so it can go back on the car soon.
Engine has been reunited with the gearbox now the new rear crank seal has gone in, new clutch too for good measure.
One day I'll stop buying new parts!

Those straps are a bit vulnerable. I keep mine well covered in waxoyle.

Yes, agree they are out in the elements a bit.
Given them a 2nd coat of hammerite tonight for good measure.
I also have some thin neoprene which I will glue to the side that faces the tank to stop the paint being rubbed off.

Got the new front screen fitted this week, nice new bits going on now.

The fuel tank straps got painted then strips of neoprene glued to the tank side, this all went back on with cleaned filler pipe etc.
Back axle that I'd previously repaired and painted was next, new shocks etc, original springs which I have had blasted and powder coated rather than buying new as the new stuff just doesn't seem to be of such good quality and break readily, these are probably the original so should be good for a while yet.

Rear hatch got flatted and polished back up ready for the glass to be bonded in, happy with the choice of black.

Engine bay all built back up with refurbished parts as necessary, anything awkward to get at was replaced like steering rack gators which allowed me to regrease the internals of the rack. New track rod ends for good measure.

Drive train back in now.
Couldn't resist tidying a few bits up like dull and rusty engine mount brackets. Engine itself lets the side down now!
I've built up the front struts now ready to be fitted next time.

Great seeing it come together.

Love the gloss black rear hatch

It's all looking so gorgeous that it's almost a shame not to spruce the engine up as it goes back together. Before you refit the dashboard it will be worth checking it carefully for the beginnings of any cracks where it bolts to the firewall and on the narrow bits between the various air vents and instrument clusters.

Cheers guys, it is coming together nicely, mainly due to being able to spend time on it.
Agree the engine does kind of let the side down a bit, did think about taking the cam cover off and polishing it but didn't' want to go too overboard, just nice and tidy. Still might clean it up some more..
Good idea re the dashboard, I'll have a look at it before it goes in and see if any reinforcing can be done if needed  8)

New front shocks now built up with original refurbished springs, new bump stops and components cleaned and painted.

I have been puzzled over the correct orientation for the offset top mounts to keep the camber etc correct.
The workshop manual didn't give me any clues, the gtie was no clearer either as they looked different either side.
The obvious though was overlooked, the bolt pattern is not symmetrical so they will only bolt back to the car in one position!
A few more bits and pieces got cleaned and painted, front towing eye for one thing which was pretty rusted being sat out front of the car.
The rubber gear lever gaitor that sits under the car had a split in it so some neoprene strips got glued inside and out to reinforce it.
All stuff to be refitted next visit.  8)

Front Suspension all fitted up.

New suspension arms and bushes, should be a while before it all comes apart again. All bushes and bolts greased up just in case though, bushes will be tightened up once it's on level ground to prevent twisting.

I was trying to post yesterday but it wouldn't take. The places to check the dashboard are the three mounting points that fasten it at the top to the bulkhead and the tops of the two thin pillars either side of the heater controls.

That's perfect information Frank, great timing too as I am planning on having a look at the dash either tomorrow afternoon or on Thursday, now I have a better idea of where the weak points are  8)

Still plugging away. Wanted to get the exhaust system fitted back on before the radiator whilst access was easier, to line up the back box that meant the bumper needed to be on so cleaned that up and fitted it with the lights for good measure. Amazing how much time it takes to fiddle around with jobs like this, took the lenses off so I could clean all the dirt that gets in the corners.
Powder coated front panel back on, new hi/lo horns, radiator etc back in. A few more bits left to soak overnight to clean years of crud then the underbonnet is almost done.

It's worth putting some black trim restorer on the bumpers and mirrors and letting it soak in for a good while before refitting them. If you haven't fitted the front bumper yet you get a better effect doing it off the car so the shine is present in all the hard to get at nooks and crannies.

Damn, another good idea I should have thought of beforehand..
I'll make sure to do the front one before fitting, rear light lenses off should give me access to the rear enough if I undo the side fixings.

Wise words from Frank

Bang on the money about the dashboard Frank, ns mounting broken and several cracks in the area where the heater controls mount.
Made up some steel strips, bonded and screwed in place.

Literally "better than new".

Have a look at the choke lever too. The "hinge" is a frail bit of bent plastic that snaps, probably sooner rather than later. I have managed so far to maintain a supply of replacements but the last one is now starting to go. I haven't devised a modification to replace the folded plastic arrangement but it is worth bearing in mind and checking.

Yes, I recall you saying about that. Wonder if some kind of piano style hinge could be fitted? Getting it attached to such thin plastic could be an issue. Mine seems OK at the moment....famous last words,,, might have a good look at it though this Saturday to see if any ideas pop up.
Should be getting the engine fired up this weekend, progress slowed now I'm back at work  :(

Dashboard now back in place, everything seems to be OK apart from the heater fan only working on fast speed. Didn't have an electrical tester to hand yesterday so brought the switch home and tested it today and it works so maybe it's the resister that sits aside the heater blower itself, I'll test it out next Saturday when I'm up there again.
Got the rest of the engine install buttoned up, cooling fan etc back on.
5 gallons of fresh petrol in and with a few drips down the carb to prime it it started up just fine, a few coughs and splutters until the carb filled up properly but idled nicely and up to temp no bother.
New front flexi hoses fitted so the brakes could be filled and bled.
A few little tasks done, fuel gauge didn't work so earthed the wiring at the sender and gauge shot to full so wiring and gauge OK so traced wiring and who would have thought that the earth for the fuel sender goes forward to the rear footwell then along the drivers side loom and to the back of the car where the lights earth! Which of course I hadn't bolted in place yet. So an easy fix.
Next time I'll finish off a couple of bits, sort that fan issue then drop the car back down onto its suspension so I can refit the doors, wings and bonnet so it all aligns up whilst on the ground rather than being on axle stands.
Not actually that far away from being done now.  8)

Can't wait :D :D :D

Heater fan switches are notorious. Usually they loose the fastest speed. The resister for the speeds has no moving parts, it's the same as the lighting resistor on OSF suspension turret,   and is external to the heater. I would clean the contacts in the switch and keep my fingers crossed.

Issue with the fan only working on fast speed setting may be of interest to some guys incase yours fails and the switch tests OK, as mine did.
Tested the continuity from switch wires to the resisitor by the fan motor and all wiring OK, so tested the resisitor itself and was open circuit.
How the fan differing speeds work are governed by the resisitor. On full speed the resistor is bypassed, hence mine working on full speed. For low and medium speed it puts the earth through the coils which reduces the effectiveness of the earth thereby reducing the power going to the motor, medium speed just uses the halfway contact point, slow speed uses the full length of the resisitor.
The fault was obvious to see, a weak link between contacts had fractured. Not really sure if it was supposed to be a weak link, the power supply will be fused but guess it gives some overheat protection if the motor starts to drag and overload the resisitor.

To repair it I just soldered some copper wire across the base of the contacts. A bit more hefty than the original point where it broke but it will be OK.
All works fine now.
Apart from the motor making a racket. On taking it out the plastic impeller pack had dropped down a few mm and was dragging on the casing, maybe that had caused the resistor to overheat, who knows.
Pushed back home and it runs lovely and silently.

The doors were next on line to be reattached, once the rest of the dash was put into place.
All built back up with the glass etc but not the latches yet as I'll do the final alignment once I get the car down onto it's wheels.
I took the precaution on the window regulators of drilling a hole in the glass mount where the plastic clip seems to be a weak point, a large washer with split pin should stop it dropping out.

Well that's a new one on the heater motor. I actually went out and checked on mine to see if I have been mistaken all these years. Nope, mine is still, as I have often found before, OK on low and medium speed with nothing on fast speed and intact circuits across all of the resistor. You're lucky it was something different because it was readily fixable.

Another thing to check is that your rear side windows are fully sealing on their rear edge against their rubbers at the top. Damp getting in the boot has been a mystery to me for years with suggested causes ranging from the pipe for the rear window washer leaking (plausible) to condensation forming due to the heating and cooling of the floor by the exhaust (implausible). I realised recently that rain water running off the gutter less roof was pooling on the top of the window rubber and running down inside behind the rear seat belt. The latch has an "over centre" action and mine goes "over" fractionally too far allowing the pressure holding the window closed to release slightly. Compacted rubbers strikes me as one possible cause though I may have used catches from a Touring and be finding another of those fractional mismatches between what superficially appear to be exchangeable components.

Hi Kevin
My heater fan is like yours was nice to know it is an easy fix with the soldering iron. I swapped out the motor on mine from a spare that came with the car and for good measure popped a smidgeon of grease on the top bearing.
Clarkey

Yes, the fan motor sitting upside down with the top bearing open allows for a drip of machine oil to be applied once a year should keep it moving freely for years. All good to keep things flowing.
Sounds like on yours Frank with it not working on fast speed the resistor could indeed be completely ruled out as at fault. Switch contacts likely culprit as you say. It's a slightly different way to do things that often used on other cars, the motor gets 12v supply when ignition on and the switch operates the earth. Fan speed 1 puts the earth connection through to the brown wire which feeds through the resistor to the opposite end , back down through the double wired connection and onto the fan motor completing the circuit. Fan speed 2 sends earth through the green/brown wire along the short route of the resistor and down the double connector and onto the motor. Fan speed setting 3 just sends the earth from the switch up to the resistor but as it's the double connector wire it just goes directly to the fan motor so runs at the full 12v without resistance. If you have continuity in the wire connection from the switch to the double connection at the resistor then that rules out a broken wire so hence the switch at fault. As I'm sure you have deduced Frank, not wanting to teach you how to suck eggs just wanted to try and explain the checking process so others can self check things methodically as there's no better feeling than being able to repair your own stuff  8)

Good shout too on the rear window rubbers to make sure of a good seal. Before all the interior trim goes in I'll check them. I did clean and check the seals for damage before fitting. I'll check to see if they are applying decent tension. If not then a good solution would be to make a spacer gasket out of plastic or maybe some neoprene sheet as I have some for making spacers or gaskets where needed, a rubber spacer a couple of mm thick under the rear latch would pull the glass tighter by the same amount. Similar set up on AlfaSuds I've had before, they sometimes didn't go over centre quite as firmly as these do which OK it kept tension on the seal but also I've known them to pop open, not good for security or sealing !

That's it for the jobs for a little while, until after Christmas anyway. I have some time off work between Christmas and New Year though so should have the car completed in that week. Not really that much to do now as you can see. Front wings & bonnet to fit. Bumper o0nce I've cleaned and treated it, good tip Frank  ;) I did take the rear lights out and do the rea one which looks much better. Some of the thick floor padding needs renewing but I already have some new self adhesive sheets waiting to be cut to suit and fit. Wiring is all done so once I know everything works then the carpet and seats can go in, probably makes sense to fit the roof lining back in before the seats thinking about it..
Once on the wheels I'll take it over my pit and tighten all the bushes so they are tight with the car level to prevent twist up damage. A good clean then as it's getting pretty dusty!

I do though have to sort something with the aerial if you guys have ideas. The car has never had a radio fitted and although the hole is there in the roof and an aerial cable is fitted there is just the base that clamps to the roof skin, no aerial mast itself. Can the mast be found separately? I did buy a roof mounted one without thinking about the mounting hole size which is quite big at about 18mm. Does anyone have a spare mast that screws into the roof base maybe? Or know where I can find? I'll have a search in the usual places a bit more, what I've found so far hasn't worked.

I'll probably do a double check on my heater wiring as you suggest to make sure haven't missed the obvious but I have a feeling I've cleaned inside a switch in the past and got things working.

On aerials I am thinking that the radio equipment was a dealer fitment and that aerials therefore fairly random. Mine has what has an unusual one with no articulation which means it has to be removed every time I put the cover on the car. I have never seen another one fitted to a Y10. I'll have a dig in my spares to see if I have saved an aerial or parts but I'd never registered them as being an unusual size fitting.

Auto Italia were after doing a feature on a Y10 at the beginning of the year and contacted me but mine was off the road. While it cosmetically reasonably presentable now the drive train is thoroughly worn out so I certainly didn't want it to be the standard by which Y10s were judged. Yours on the other hand would be an excellent proposition so if you were willing I could pass on your contact details when you are up and running.

Mine has just got the cable and a blanking plug in the fitting.
I've seen a few likely candidates on ebay, like you point out with yours though I'd like to have one that folds down rather than rigid.
Dawned on me that the gtie is sat outside so had a look at that.
Tim had contacted me about the proposed Auto Italia feature so think there's a few of us in the frame.

I found this one with a 14mm fitting which would be much more suitable for the Y10 rather than the usual mounting holes which are 6 to 8mm.
Fixed angle though.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402466306995

Apart from noticed the connection looked odd, seems to be a DAB one not FM  >:(

Found one that looks like it will do the job so taken the flunge, fingers crossed it will do the job and fit OK.
Fixed rake which isn't my first choice, as Frank says means yu have to remove the mast rather than fold flat when putting a cover on.
But for the cars' first radio install it will allow more choice as it comes with both DIN and DAB leads so opens up a multitude of opportunities!

I feel the need to apologise for the broken English in my last comment. It's far below the standard to which I aspire!

I would encourage you to resist the aerial you found on e-bay as looking far too obviously modern.

These might look more natural and it shouldn't be difficult to make a spacer to reduce the size of the hole in the roof if needs be.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Celsus-AN7910-Car-Roof-Mount-Aerial-Chrome-ideal-classic-car/171236576879?epid=9016998540&hash=item27de7ece6f%3Ag%3A7IMAAOSwNyFWeToj&LH_ItemCondition=1000

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-VW-BEETLE-TOP-MOUNT-CAR-RADIO-AERIAL-CHROME-SHIRA-PART-No-SYS667-NOS/283765447830?hash=item4211bd1c96%3Ag%3AyTAAAOSw6j9bg-n5&LH_ItemCondition=1000

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Car-Oldtimer-Chrome-Roof-Aerial-Antenna/363044043276?hash=item54871c7a0c%3Ag%3AL6AAAOSwl-VfBrGF&LH_ItemCondition=1000

This is the one I have purchased, not ideal I agree but having already purchased  a nice period looking one and finding it was too small to have any degree of suitable overlap for the comparatively oversized hole in the roof, 18mm hole with aerials designed for a 10mm hole produces too much slop and potential for it moving, or leaking plus the underside earth contact is too small so would need a washer of some sort. Seemed too fiddly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roof-Mount-Active-DAB-with-FM-Car-Radio-Aerial-Antenna-Mast-Amplifier-Built-UK/293152901471?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I quite like the 1st and last of those Frank, but the 1st has no size data and the last shows what most seem to be, having a 10mm mounting hole which given my 18mm hole it's a bit too small.

I'll see what the one I've bought looked like on the car before deciding, I would much rather have an older looking one especially a tilt able one.
May look at the original one I purchased,,

You have to work with what you've got. I've had a dig and found I do have two removed aerials but neither of which look like they fitted naturally in the 18mm hole. I've also taken some detailed pictures of the mounting on my Y10 which rather shows what an unusual fitment it is.

Really appreciate that Frank.
Your pics of the mount is exactly the same as on my Y10. I would ideally like to use it and just find a mast/connector that would screw into the base but like those two spares you found, they are a square section that would sit proud of the roof.
It is an unusual set up that's for sure.

I never actually had any problem with the square based aerials being insecure. The one on my present Y10 is more of a pain because unless the base is aligned at precisely the right angle the aerial, when securely screwed down, doesn't point straight backwards down the middle of the car. The square bases of the salvaged aerials fully covered the 18mm hole in the roof with no leakage and a serrated washer on the internal connection kept it all from moving about once screwed down.

The new combined DAB/DIN aerial arrived today and it looks better than I anticipated. Should fit the hole perfectly, even has a nice twist/wrapped look on the mast so doesn't look too modern.
I'll try it on the car next time to see what it looks like but I'm reasonably confident it'll do the job and not look out of place.

Enough of the sitting around watching TV and eating mince pies, with the car packed I at least ought to have a ride up to the unit to drop off the bits. I bought some correct sized wheels and tyres off Frank earlier this year, 3 were of Toyo brand and one other, which had some tread cracks. Nothing too dramatic but as I could get a brand new Toyo for only £25 to match the other 3 almost new ones it seemed daft not to have a matching set. So they all got re-balanced ready for fitting.
Car unloaded and wheels fitted so ready for a few days this week to finish the car off.
I did fitthe aerial though whilst there. This is the DAB/DIN combined one which although not a tilt type I am more than happy with it, and it offers the option of fitting a retro style unit or a modern DAB one, shouldn't look out of place either seeing as they are hidden head units...

Front view.. Not too large..

One issue with the Y10 that has been pointed out is the little plastic clamps that hold the heater control cables to the side of the heater box, mine mostly broke when removed as they were brittle with age.
I'd given it some thought and have come up with this solution.
Some stainless steel cable clamps that have a rubber insert seemed to be a good solution.
The ones I got though were too deep and would foul the cables if used.
With a new hole drilled and the tab cut down they fit nice.

Once fitted the cables are securely clamped and the rubber insert prevents the outer cable moving, all controls move smoothly and will be secure for years to come.

Seeing your picture reminds me how nicely designed the heater is with the matrix basically a slide out cassette that can be removed without dismantling half the car.

Spent the last couple of days putting bits back on, whilst trying to keep warm!
The front bumper I heeded Frank's advice and treated it before fitting so that will go on tomorrow.
Most panels have aligned quite well, drivers door seems to have relaxed a bit back to where it had folded out before but it'll be OK.
Nice to get the wings and bonnet on at last, safer bolted to the car!

Hatch took a bit of fettling to get the latch to work satisfactorily without having to slam it too hard, needs a good clean now though as getting quite dusty.
The car will soon be completely watertight so can soon have a wash.

Just got the interior to fit now, soundproofing, carpets, seats, door cards, roof lining etc.
Getting close to being done!

This is the part of this type of thread I hate, coming to the end! I think you're about to astound an MOT examiner with that beauty!

Lol, I'm sure Chris the tester will be able to contain himself  ;D
He's a Lancia nut too, like us, so come the spring I'm sure he'll be able to have a look at it for me.

But I understand what you are saying, it is near the end of the project, but that's no bad thing for me!

Still, the Y10 GTie needs the same doing, plus the Flavia coupe so although I don't plan on starting either in 2021 I guess by this time next year one or the other will be just starting out...

When it comes to the clean up, if it isn't already in your armoury, can I recommend a 1.5" decorators paint brush for cleaning all the nooks and crannies on the dashboard. It's especially good for getting deep into the air vents. After dusting I use it work in Armour All or similar vinyl polish to all the recesses.

Kevin Y10 looking brilliant.
I hope you dont mind me making a suggestion.
If you have it watertight shortly why not hold of fitting the rest of the interior until after you've washed it?
Be a shame to find that after all the trim is fitted you have a water leak.
Its also a lot easier to spot leaks before the carpets and door cards etc are fitted.
Brian
8227  8)

Two great suggestions there guys 8)
One I can do, the other I should have thought about before fitting the interior  ::)
 ;D
Fingers crossed for no dripping..
I did give the rear inner arches a good  blast with tetrosyl before putting the rear quarter trims in though, so not all thoughtless work  ;D

Loving that gloss black rear hatch :) :) :)

Car has at last seen daylight, still got a few finishishing touches to do but almost there.... How many times can I keep saying that!

Today I managed to get the car over my pit and tighten all the suspension bushes then set the tracking, few little details coming together.
I also set the rear brake compensator tensioner now I had it parked on level ground and able to get underneath it.
Lancia workshop manual says to suspend a 4.5kg weight from the bracket which then puts the required tension on the return spring and then tighten up.
I had seen this done before using bathroom scales and fill a water container until the required amount is in but as usual I'd forgotten to take the scales.
A guy in the adjacent unit does a lot of fitness and boxing training, when he's not doing paint jobs, so I asked if he had any weights that would add up to the 4.5kg needed. He did! So a length of cord stringing them together and all set perfectly  8)

The wheel trims were missing the centre badges so a suitable set were found on ebay, OK probably not as per the originals but they fit in the space nicely and look the part.
Next time I want to finish all the rust preventative wax injection into the doors and sills then the door cards can go on, which along with a few small pieces of trim will be very nearly the last... Again..
A few bits under the bonnet to do and that will be about it...  ;D

Neat idea using the scales to gauge the required strain! But how? Suspend it from the compensator and load it with 4.5kg? but the weight should include the weight of the  scales so how do you weigh the scales? With another set I suppose? Or do you suspend it upside down and then suspend weights to get a 4.5kg negative reading?
Love these threads! Always something to learn! Thanks!
Guy

I think Kevin was going to use the scales to weigh a Filled water container (5ltr?) with 4.5kg total weight ....

I think Kevin was going to use the scales to weigh a Filled water container (5ltr?) with 4.5kg total weight ....
[/quote]

Thanks Tim! I must have been overthinking after over drinking!

The scales I would have used, memory permitting, would have been bathroom scales - the type that people use this time of year to torture themselves over Christmas binging!
Find a suitable container like the 5L as suggested, add on the means to suspend already if complete accuracy is required and set it all down on the scales and fill with water to the required amount.
That was the plan....
Memory being what it was I'd forgot the key ingredient, the bathroom scales!
So my used method you could say wasn't 100% accurate as the 4.5kg weights were fine but I didn't include the weight of the old piece of aerial cord to string them together and the metal hook to hand them from the compensator, but in reality both items would only weigh a few grams, certainly not even 0.1kg so it's accurate enough to set the job up.

Finishing off the little details now, all the tetrosyl cavity wax now into the sills, door bottoms etc as it's finally warmed up, and dried enough to apply.
Door cards etc all in, so it's just about done save for number plates to be made up.
The front grille though had previously been broken at the drivers side bottom clip, well really it was the headlight recess that was broken. Sods law meant of course when I took the grille out last year I snapped off the passenger bracket from off the grille.
Another job I'd put to the back of my mind reasoning I'd make some brackets so it could be screwed into place when the time comes.... Well the time has now come!

As I had saved the broken piece I wondered about gluing it back on, the remembered the recent discussion on plastic welding using a soldering iron.
So I had a go...

It actually seemed to weld together very well, strong as it was. But I did the other trick of using a cable tie to melt over the joint for good measure.
All went very well.

So I decided the LX badge that had a broken clip could also be welded into place, that too went very well and is now more secure that ever!

Flushed with success the next thought was to use some plastic an make a new mount for the drivers side bottom clip.
This however didn't seem to bond so well, seems it's got to be two pieces of the same plastic to get a good bond.
A few strips cut and welded on, hope for the best...

My fears were to be realised, as soon as I attempted to fit the grille the drivers side broke off, despite care being taken and grease used to aid fitting. It seems indeed it needs to be the same material to get a decent joint.
The broken off clip of the passenger side though is really firm, and the LX badge back in place meant all is not lost.

Thinking about it now I'll make a bracket out of some aluminium sheet and screw it to the headlight, a job for next time..

Car into big unit now for a while until I take it for an mot, but that will wait until the weather improves, or more accurately the state of the roads!

What a super little car; I love the colour.

Looks like you have the dim dip resistor on the inner wing any sign of this working?

Looks great Kevin, I wonder if we'll get an AGM  and Concours this year. ?
Brian
8227 8)

The place where the bottom corners of the radiator grille clip onto the brackets on the inner edge of the headlights are a perennial issue. I suspect if you have a front end nudge just above the front bumper the grille snaps the brackets off the headlights. Headlights that haven't lost their grille mounting brackets are one of the top things on my list to save from any Y10 being broken for spares.

Kevin,
Your plastic welding is every bit as good as your metal welding.
The Y10 looks marvellous - tell me you haven't put it in the 'bold corner' of your garage  ;)

I will have a go at making a bracket for the headlight soon, I've started on another little job... Y10 looking on...
Really pleased with the plastic welding, much easier than metal welding!

Spoke too soon about the effectiveness of the plastic welding repairs to the broken grille bracket. As carefully as I could be the broken section detached itself on trying to remove the grille to do the headlight repairs.
I'll have a look at it to see if I can make a better repair using metal, even if I use superglue or resin it still won't inspire confidence.

Still, I did get to make a bracket for the drivers side headlight so once the other side is repaired it should be firm again!
Some 2mm aluminium sheet should be a better repair as it's strong and won't rust. Screwed and glued with 2pack epoxy resin so when that's dried it'll be a strong fixing.

Living without the bracket on the headlight isn't a disaster. I have often been in that situation. I probably have some spare's with the bracket on.

With your attempts to replicate the bracket I have a couple of ideas. One would be to drill a couple of holes into the headlamp body so you can insert steel pins to support the upper and lower arms of the plastic bracket.

If making a bracket of metal it probably needs more support from behind so I'd try extending the folded back flange at the top and bottom so it is far deeper at the headlamp end and can be screwed or bonded to the body there.

The principle is that if you try to replicate the bracket and stick it on it won't be as strong as the original, which wasn't strong enough in the first place. If you make the bracket out of a different material you aren't constrained to the original design other than having the hole in the right place.

I forgot to mention that your underside picture shows the exhaust rubber stretched to the side. It should not be strained like that and I'd be worried it might cause an early failure.

I guess a brace taken from the outer extremeties of the bracket back to the headlamp to triangulate things would offer additional support. It'd be simple enough to make, may well do that next time I get chance.
The exhaust rubber is an old one that had been previously used and grown shaped that way, the exhaust is fitted without any stress so is OK for now, I'll have a look at work to see if I've any new ones. Exhausts do indeed need to be fitted in a manner that they are merely supported by the rubber brackets rather than have any brackets trying to manipulate their positioning.

Had a look at the grille this afternoon. The plastic welding failure may not be as I'd thought, seems I'd missed the split totally on the inner side. So it had only been attached on one side of the split so that made it very weak, I neglected to bring the soldering iron home so that again will have to wait. Determined to see if it will work with the split welded on both sides.

Another thought on your metal headlamp bracket repair is that the sharp internal edge might make the leg from the radiator grille difficult to unhook if you need to remove it. Even with everything as original it is a challenge to unhook the bottom of the radiator grille without straining and breaking things. If instead of cutting all the metal out of the hole you folded a flap back on the side the leg from the grille hooks over it could provide a bit of a ramp to assist future detachment.

Yep, another good idea Frank, a rolled edge would make it less likely to snag on removal.

Car now all ready for the mot on Wednesday, the first one since the rebuild.
Now I've got the new number plates on it is watertight enough for a wash, much needed to remove all the dust!
Happy to report no leaks from windows or doors.

Must say that I really do like the colour combination, the hatch being done in a metallic lacquered black rather than the satin looks better in my eyes even if not correct, but a nod towards originality.
Fingers crossed for the test..

Looking great Kevin.
Must admit I was pleased I had my Gtie new old stock tailgate done the same a number of years ago, I was always gettting polish over the edges of the previous matt black tailgate!
Brian
8227 8)

Very happy to report that the Y10 has passed its first MoT in 10 years!
Did itself proud, emissions spot on, even the dreaded rear brakes worked well, glad I did all that work replacing stuff and setting the load compensator up as per factory spec. Certainly paid off on that front.

Now what to do with it?
On driving it I do like it very much, with the new shocks and suspension bushes and new brakes it drives very nicely indeed. Back exhaust box is a bit too raspy for my liking so may change that.

Issue I now have is owning two Y10's so common sense says one ought to find a new home.
Just have to decide if it's this one or the GTie.

Congratulations Kevin on a job well done. Great to see so much cate being put into any car where making money out of it is plainly not the cause

After the amount of work you've put into this one I'd say it's a keeper. After all, it's not as if you need a GTie to get your motoring thrills. Brian swears by the Fire being the way a Y10 should be.

Thanks for the comments guys. Yes, it was never about making money, more an effort to save an unsung car that had great potential.
Whatever happens to it now its future should be assured.
I agree Frank, it's not like I need the GTie for my fix of a country lane blast, so it may well stay and the GTie get sold. But equally I may do that one up too as it's at that point where the wrong owner could easily get put off by a few upcoming jobs and actually scrap it!  :'(
There's a strong chance it may get the same treatment as the LX so it too an be assured a decent future.

Interestingly too that this morning the Y10 went for the MoT and this afternoon I took the integrale. Guess which one felt most fun?
At 55 to 60 mph in the Y10 it feels like you're getting every last inch of performance from it, especially in the twisty stuff, great fun. The integrale on the same trip feels so assured that it is actually less involving, if that makes sense? To be feeling like you're getting anywhere near its performance level you have to travel at licence worrying speeds.

Best cars I've ever had for having fun were the 3 Fiat 500's I had back in the early 1980's and 1990's, didn't go very fast, but boy was it fun getting there, real roller skates., and a very close 2nd was the citroen 2cv6 and the Dyane,.
Although both were before I got into Lancias!
Brian 8227 8)

James Hunt who had a 6.9 litre Merc and an Austin A35 van said something like you can have just as much fun in the A35 it's just that if you over do it in the A35 you aren't going fast enough to do much harm.

Had a little ride out around the local lanes, decision on the cars future to be made.

As much as I like the little car I have to face facts, too many now to keep them all, other than sticking them in a shed, which they don't deserve..

Will be up for sale very soon, details to follow.

That's very tempting, Kevin; I'll have to see what the moths in my wallet have to say about it  ;)

Just been sorting through the paperwork, knew it had some service history, didn't realise there was so much fro the original selling dealer, same name still in the rear window sticker and on the original number plates that I still have and will go with the car.

Same supplying dealer service...

There are a few invoices after that which back up the mileage just over 38k now, so as far as I can tell it's genuinely low miles.

Guy I bought it off had it on sorn since 2011,so everything ties up..

This afternoon the Y10 had its longest ride for many a year, all the way to North Yorkshire to Mathewsons auction house where it will be in the June auction, people may have seen the TV show "Bangers and Cash" that is filmed there.
They also did a greta job on selling Richards' Fulvia recently so I will trust the Y10 to them.
Should appear on their website soon, I'll put links up as and when.
Derek took it for a little spin around the block and proclaimed himself happy with it.
Car did the 100+mile journey without a hitch, hardly used any fuel too. Even had a snow shower on the way up between the sunshine!

Would have thought you could have sold it on here pretty easily Kevin.

Loving that reg  :) :) :) The auction house is not far from me might pop along and check out the car before it is sold.
Clarkey

I did consider advertising it for sale, on here and elsewhere, but I really have no idea what it is worth.
I was impressed with how Mathewsons handled Richards Fulvia sale and fancied the excitement of watching it go through, it will sell for whatever the market decides it is worth I guess! I did kind of try and drop a few hints that I may try and sell, 
The car will be available to view at their premises, should be details soon once they get sorted out. They are still busy sorting out cars from last weekends sale but I'd guess by next week it'll be on the internet.

Perhaps the price of our favourite marque is on the up? time will tell

After the sale of the low mileage one on e-bay a few weeks ago I think values are very much a matter of conjecture at the moment so an auction makes sense. Until the last sale I would have said vales for good Y10s barely broke the £1,000 barrier but that could now be well short of the mark.

It will certainly be interesting to see if the Y10 has followed the market trend of most stuff going skywards.
I mean, near £18k for a Mk5 Cortina for goodness sake! That car was still there awaiting collection, in good order but by ho means perfect.

Main driver for costs of the cars from the 80s is “what did my dad drive”, he’d have been a very cool dad to be mooching around in a Y10 (I was very cool, bought a 3 week old pre-reg Y10 Touring 😎) where loads of them were reps in Cortinas

Would be interested to know what the B reg Y10 went for, and whether that found the only person who really wanted one, or are there two more (to bid against each other😂)

I look forwards to seeing how yours goes with interest, got to be absolutely the best one out there - until you do the GTie anyway

I was on holiday in North Yorkshire last week and happened to be driving past. So I stopped for a cheeky picture - it looks great  ;D

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51195452206_3ed06d9710_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZY5js)LANCIA Y10 FIRE LX (https://flic.kr/p/2kZY5js) by Andy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/8165854@N08/), on Flickr

Fantastic Andy, interesting that it has pride of place in front of the building rather than stuck in the Pickering warehouse, for now at least.
Glad you liked it  8)

Now with Derek giving it the thumbs up ahead of the June sale...

https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/product/1988-lancia-y10-fire-lx-current-v5-present-paperwork-includes-some-old-mots-and-a-few-invoices-and-lancia-handbookwe-highly-recommend-that-you-view-in-person-any-potential-purchase-and-take-time-t/

he's just put another £500 on the selling price for you...nice one