Lancia Motor Club

I had a Dedra as a daily driver when the kids were little, (well I had two in actual fact, a lovely white 1.8 followed by a red turbo, now owned by my friend Jim) but as that was almost 20 years ago I have been hankering after one for a year or two now.
I did go down into Norfolk last year to see a pretty rough and tired one, that was February 2020 BC (before covid) and since then prices seem to have grown twofold at least, but I have still managed to stumble across what I feel is a good valued investment. Not that I have bought it as an investment, but one to make great again.

I haven't yet had chance to look under it but how bad can it be? Well, a 31 year old (how is it 31 years old!) Lancia must surely hold a surprise or two. Time will tell. Looking though the history I have on it there are a few welding repair invoices from Zagato Lancia, hardly a surprise really.
The rear bumper mounts will need work, the drivers side is pretty much non-existent so I fully expect that once the bumper is removed there will be plenty of metal needing replacing. The N/S arch already has holes so the water will have been getting in causing havoc. The outer sills have recently been patched up, I will try and find new replacement panels but suspect they will be near impossible to find.

Mechanically it seems OK, has been running recently but are a few immediate jobs to tackle before a proper assessment can be made not least a  fuel leak from the pressure regulator! The starter motor also needs an overhaul, cambelt & balance belt change well overdue but I want to make an assessment on engine condition first, just incase it all needs a stripdown refresh. Showing 90k on the clock which seems to be backed up by the history and MoT's so is probably genuine.

The interior has, or had as it has been replaced with blue Alcantara, an unusual set of half Alcantara with a fabric middle.
Does anyone know what the name of this material is as I'd like to try and find some to get the fronts retrimmed so I can install the original set.

The previous owner actually stumbled across a Dedra in a local scrapyard so grabbed what he could, including this blue Alcantara trim, just a shame that there is a hole in the rear seat base, the fronts look like they'd clean up very nicely.

It's an SE model, has the electronic suspension but again, I haven't had chance to check if the struts are still the originals or if they've been changed for conventional ones. Does anyone know if the electronic ones are available anywhere still? I will add it to the growing list of things to check...

I'd welcome any information on the car, even just thoughts about them. I personally find them a great car, a "sleeper" as they say.
Looking forward to making a start on this one. Maybe even at the expense of the Flavia coupe..

Car all safely stored away for now, 4 Lancia in the same shed, and another at home... No, that's not excessive!

Fantastic - just as we were beginning to get withdrawal symptoms now that the Y10 is finished!

Good luck with restoration! Have you seen the £7000 1 owner 24,000 car on eBay?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lancia-Dedra-1-8ie-1990-1-Owner-24k-Miles-MOT-October-2021/154338720454?hash=item23ef4dfac6:g:RQwAAOSw5J5gSxTT

Unfortunately not a turbo!

Guy

Hi Guy, yes I did notice that Dedra 1.8 on eBay. Does look lovely, apart from the wheels. Mileage and condition look great, hope it does achieve decent money, about time Lancia got some mainstream recognition.

And yes, a build thread will start!  ;D I'm hoping it won't be as extensive a build as the Y10 but it won't have anything left to chance, time will tell how far the build goes once I get going.... ::)
Won't be for a month or two and won't be done in such quick order, unless we go into "lockdown" again and I get a few months up at the unit.

Body up top is pretty decent, faded paint of course but that will all get redone, but no real rusty patches aside from the aforementioned rear arch/bumper sections. Sills I fear will need cutting out so more than likely (well let's be honest 100% likely) that the floor lip will be far from useable, needs to be all cut out rather than patched so as not to return to it later on.
Looking forward to starting this one, despite saying I'd not do any this year! ;D

Thema Dedra Consortium and Brian Hilton (Dedra Advisor) are your essential wing men on this project.

My 1991 brochures specify full alcantara as standard trim for Dedra Turbo but in grey rather than blue on a red car. I have a feeling that half alcantara was a feature of late series cars.

I'm fairly sure I have a spare pair of "non wiper" headlights if you want to convert. The wiper system is a poor design because the wiper spindle goes straight into the gear box onto the last gear in the gear train. Water getting past the seal on the spindle collects in the gear box and rusts the steel gear wheels into one solid lump.

Joining the TDC is a priority.
Had a quick look in the wheelarches tonight, car is much better than I thought, so far at least...
Took the front wheel arch liners out expecting to see rot at the bottom of the fottwells but all looked great. Of course the bottom of the outriggers that go down to the lower bumper mounts are rotten, they always seem to be that way on all the ones I've seen, Lancia or Alfa 145/155.

Great news though is that the electronic suspension struts are still present, albeit the drivers wiring connector is broken but new junctions are readily available to be soldered in place.

Passenger front...

Drivers front...

Passenger rear outer arch will no doubt require a fair bit of reconstruction, already had some repairs to the forward section where they rot so not all bad..

Drivers side rear bumper forward mount is pretty much non existant, which I knew about. I expect to repair all the way around behind the bumper along the boot floor, right from one side to the other.

I've a small job to do on the integrale first so it will be a few weeks before I get started, but itching to get on with the car now.
It will get the rear bumper removed, back axle dropped out as that makes repairs easier then I'll assess what to do with the sills etc.
Car will need to be stripped back enough for a glass out paint job, I try and avoid masking out glass etc if I can.
Mechanically it seems decent enough. Needs belts doing, tappet shims ill check as a couple sound a little wide of gap and the top cam box covers are damp at the gaskets so all just regular maintenance really.

One bonus though is the intake pipe that snakes around the battery tray, it was covered in grey tank tape which I presumed to mean it had splits in it. New ones seem unobtainable as are substantially different to Integrale ones, down to finding a used one I assume. Decided I'd take all the grey tape off, see if a repair could be done. To my great surprise it seems the tape was applied as a protective means, the pipe is like new! I can only assume the original must have failed and the replacement OE one to have been that expensive the tape was applied to protect the new one from chafing, not a bad idea if a little unsightly!

Kevin,
 if you need anything regarding Dedra  I have quite a lot collected over the years, including the body section of the manual.
Keep your fingers crossed the electronic shockers are ok, I had them on my first Dedra 2.0iese and at the time they were £350 a corner.
They had a normal and sport setting, that I always thought of as hard, and harder still!
As you intend taking the glass out it doesn't matter, but according to the manual you have to remove the rear windscreen to remove the rear wings, not true, years ago a friend and fellow member Chris Catlow did it without doing so.
Brian
8227 8)
 

Like Brian I think the electronic dampers were a bit of a gimmick. If they don't work then replacement with standard is the simple solution.

Here are pictures of a removed rear wing. It's going to make repairing the rear arch rust much easier and similarly removal of the rear screen.

Cheers chaps, I'm sure I'll be calling for assistance in the near future.
As for the shocks, and how functional they are time will tell. The drivers front one has a broken wire at the connection which I will renew, but until I have done the cambelt & balance belts I won't be running the car long enough to check, no idea if the belts have been done since the last documented change, and that was over 10 years ago!

Quite agree with you, belts are a must every 3 years or 36,000 miles, despite what the service schedule says, but don't forget to change the tensioner and bearings as well, its also worth changing the other belts while you have it apart, rather than having to have to do most of the work again if an ancillary belt goes.
I assume you're including the Counter balance belt as well, and after all this time a water pump wouldn't go amiss ether!
Brian
8227 8)

There is a receipt for the water pump and rear metal water rail at about the same time, so I'll see how the pump feels.
Balance belt, tensioner and idler bearings, aux belts etc will all be changed.
I'll be placing an order soon, once parked up I can take the cam covers off and check what tappet shims I need so it's all done in one order.
A bit of a service too, but I will leave that until it's welded and painted, making the engine safe to start up is the priority, how galling would it be for the belt to fail whilst moving it around the yard! :(

Saw these online in Italy, couldn't resist even though I could have repaired the ones on the car, but original Fiat /Lancia panels that I can spot weld in place will make for a nice repair. Even if they are completely hidden!
Front bumper mounts, if anyone is wondering. Mine are rotten on the bottom, as all seem to be.

They stretch all the way up to the wing mounts.

Nice sourcing of parts  :D

Car now at top of the "to do" list so has made its way to the little unit ready to be stripped down soon.

Before going into the little unit the delta came out having had a couple of minor issues attended to, the Dedra actually has the same paint code as my integrale, guess it's not that unusual given they were made about a year apart.

Had to get the starter motor overhauled first though, it was incredibly worn, almost too worn but like triggers new broom it's nice to keep the original parts!

I've brought the original seats home, well at least I was told they were the originals although I am not sure as these are not heated, which I thought they should be?
The outer sections are the regular grey alcantara but the centre, worn out sections are regular seat material.
If these are the originals then I'd like to get them refurbished, so does anyone know the material is called no help my search?

The rear seats are in decent order for comparison, could be useful for finding the right material.
The red and blue stripes within are of varying thickness which complicates things..

The lockable backrests fit the keys with the car, so are they the right ones? Or is it just that any key will fit... Guess I ought to try that, I have a few Lancia keys knocking about. If other keys fit that will say it's still in doubt these are original to the car, if they don't then it's more likely to confirm they are the originals...

Tried 3 different sets of Lancia keys in the seat backs, none of them fit. So that points towards these being original to the car...

Specifications on trim and equipment are a  deep realm of mystery. My 1990 and 1991 brochures suggest a turbo should have had full Alcantara and the half Alcantara was a mainland Europe specification. Electrically heated and adjustable seats were only ever an optional extra and even then only listed for 2.0 litre SE models and Turbos.

The top optional extra was full leather so if you have to reupholster you could always take out a second mortgage....

 :D Yes the leather option would be expensive wouldn't it. And to be honest I don't really like leather for car seats, too cold in winter and burns you in summer!
Guess the material for the integrale seats wild be an option.

Judging by the wear on the fabric compared to the wear on the Alcantara I'd be tempted to recover them in Alacantara if affordable...my Turbo was as Frank has said all Alcantara with heated seats I think...The 1.8 I had was also Alcantara but the previous owner had kept his pet raccoons in the car so they were a mess.
Clarkey

Replacing the centre panels with new grey alcantara is a thought, but maybe it would make the rest of the seats look shaby, food for thought though.

Can't remember ever seeing a Dedra Turbo with cloth seats, as Frank said,  Alcantara or leather option, last turbos were all leather with a fixed rear seat.
Normally only 1.6 and 1.8 had cloth, although the 1.8 had the option of Alcantara.
I reckon Alcantara is one of the best seating material there is.
Cloth in Dedra and Thema had a nasty habit of shredding, similar to your photo.
I had a complete spare interior in Alcantara, and a 1.8 Dedra owner bought the lot and ditched the cloth, which was in a terrible condition.
Something that works well as far as wearability is concerned is the seat cheeks in leather, and alcantara for the main seating areas.
Alcantara does wear on the cheeks, going into holes.
Brian
8227 8)

Wonder if black alcantara would look OK against the grey, replace all the central sections...
Or just get the whole seats done in new grey.
I ought to check the door cards too before making decisions.

https://www.classiccarservices.co.uk/shop/materials/black-alcantara-1-detail

Charcoal..

https://www.classiccarservices.co.uk/shop/materials/charcoal-alcantara-6422-1-detail

For what ts worth I  think it would look better in Charcoal or grey,
Brian
8227 8)

I'd talk to TDC about what seats or covers they may have.

Yes, I've been in touch with the TDC and will be joining at months end when subs start again.
Another thought occurred to me today, the replacement set that is now in the car are of a blue tinged full alcantara with just a minor repair to the rear seat base needed.
And on looking at a picture they are the heated ones, so that may be a answer.

I'd stick with that set of seats. It's interesting they are heated but not electrically adjustable but as I said before, trim and equipment specifications are a dark mystery to me.

My old Dedra turbo, now my friend Jims' car as pictured earlier, had the grey alcantara with heated seats but manual movement, didn't even know electric adjustment was an option!
As you say Frank, so many permutations...

Yes, this set could be a simpler option.
I'll have another look on Wednesday.

Here (I hope) is a photo of the full grey Alcantara interior in the front of my - previously Chris Hopkins - 1993 Dedra integrale (the "Preview" function on here doesnt show the photo, should it?). The Drivers seat outer bolster isnt quite as worn as it looks, honest ;D. The front seats are entirely manual in adjustment and there is no heat function. They appear similar in appearance to Delta integrale pre-cat Evo seats.
The integrale shares many components with the Turbo, but as Im sure you know the 'grale version was never officially imported to the UK and is LHD only, although that didnt stop the Delta integrale of course!

I would defintely recommend joining the TDC. I now have to acquire RHD headlight units (no wiper-arms on mine) as I dont think Ill get the car through another MoT with the LHD units still fitted.

Brian. When next we meet up (AGM weekend?) I will return the Manuals you kindly lent me. Unfortunately I never got the chance to scan them electronically, the workplace where I could have got this done terminated my Contract shortly afterwards :( and I dont have/own a scanner.

Hoo-rah! It worked!
Heres the rear seats....

Headlights are another realm of complication, LHD or RHD, wiper or non wiper, self levelling or non self levelling. so many choices.

My 1990 20iese had electric windows all round.
Remote central locking.
Electronic suspension with normal and sports setting.
4 channel Abs.
Electronic heating control, not Airton, air con was never an option in the UK.
Electric sunroof.
Headlamp wash wipers..
But manual seat adjustment!
My 1994 Dedra LS had high pressure headlamp wash.
But no central locking.

My 1993 2.0ie was the only Dedra that had a fixed rear seat ,as  locking folding rear seat, an option was standard to UK cars.
As we said UK cars were a real mix of specifications!
Richard, I'm getting real forgetful in my old age as I can't find the rest of my manuals, I had a tidy up but I cant find them, despite there being at least 5 large manuals.
You have the most important one for your integrale, I can always send you a copy of anything else you need, I already have a lot of sections downloaded to my pc, everytime I used to download sections and send them to owners over the years, I always saved them onto my PC as well.

Appreciate all the comments guys, and pictures of the seats. They are different again to what was on my old turbo, so they could well be integrale specific? I'll pop down to see Jim who now owns my old car to have a look, I also need to refresh myself over a few details anyway.  8)

This afternoon I got chance to get the car up on the stands to have a better look at things.
I fully expected to have to drop the fuel tank and back axle out as the rot would be easier to sort.

I've got the wheels on the wooden stands as the rear jacking points both need sorting out, I also wondered if the sills would need cutting away but they look better than anticipated so far...

The jacking point on the drivers side has been repaired recently by someone but I'm not keen on it so will cut it out and redo it.
The passenger side looked crusty and weak, which was no surprise that the axle stand adapter went up into the rust with a crunch!  ;D

Plan is to sort out the jacking points first so I can reposition the axle stands to enable the wheels to come off.

With the bumper removed I expected to see rust all along the back edge, but pleasantly surprised to see it all in great condition, outside and within the boot space box section.

Drivers side bumper side mount I knew to be all but missing, amazingly it seems to be confined to that small area

Passenger side is much worse but still marginally better than I thought it may be.

Section underneath will get cut out back to the chassis rail, its been patched up before so needs tidying better.

Overall it looks good, not as bad as I thought it would be so that is a nice surprise, almost never is there less rust than you fear..... he says tempting fate...  :o
A bit in the seam near the seat belt mount so areas like this will get properly inspected.

Kevin might be worth seeing if you can check if your turbo had a recall about fumes getting back inside , something to do with the vent shown just behind the rear wheel.
Brian
8227 8)

I think when it comes to Dedras the galvanising helps. I'll be watching with interests / trepidation as my Dedra is up for a sort out this year and I know there is one rust hole on the nearside sill.

The first of what will likely become many requests for spares, so I'll start with a long shot...
The electric aerial doesn't raise or lower under power but can be pulled up and down manually, which no doubt would drop down if tried to be used in that way.
On connecting a battery to the wires the motor whirrs away merrily, so with the mast being smooth and free that seemed odd.
On taking the mechanism apart it became apparent that someone had been in before and that not all pieces had gone back in! Or possibly a worn piece got discarded.

As all seems functional it is a shame to throw it away, so does anyone happen to have an aerial that maybe has a siezed motor or broken mast that may contain the gear that I need?
As I said, a long shot...
It's a small gear that links between the spiral gear on the motor spindle with the white plastic gears that move the long plastic raising gears.

It seems a funny thing to do if everything else was OK. The flexi track that goes up inside the aerial looks as though it could have been worn away at the bottom. Could the gear wheel have been taken out to isolate the motor and allow manual operation because the mechanism was worn out?

Or some clot dropped the gear wheel and lost it...mind the toothed strip does look worn at that end.

That is probably a very easy fix for someone with 3-D printing experience.

There was quite a large dent in the drivers rear quarter panel, the bottom edge where it sits above the bumper was pushed in instead of being a gently curving line.
A portapower in the boot helped push the creased lower edge back into shape which allowed the dent to be mostly gone.

The passenger side rear jacking point is the first port of call on the rust removal front, no particular reason as both sides need doing. Although they have both been done already!
The previous owner had recently paid to have and rot welded up ready for an mot, I'm sure he said he'd paid £250 to have it all done. Now, that may seem like a lot of money or a bargain, depending on your point of view. Trouble is it is way too little to have been a proper job done. As was born out when the axle stand went North instead of holding the car up.
Of course I already knew the jacking point needed reconstructing but I was reluctant to just assume that the sill repairs were up to the task.
An exploratory cut out confirmed what I suspected, it was just a quick cover up job! The old rusty sections covered over with new metal which on the outside was coated with underseal but laid against the old rusty metal the corrosion quickly transfers to the new, untreated metal hidden away out of sight.

The only proper course of action, as always is to cut out the rot as far as is needed.
Still some more cutting out to do and some cleaning as the chassis looks worse than it is but it needs to be sound enough to last more than a year or so like it would have if left as it was.
I'll start the reconstruction next time, thought I'd got some new 1.6mm steel to hand but only 1.2mm, not a huge difference on paper but that's a 30% increase in thickness and is needed for strength in a critical area like this.

Best use of a wet Bank Holiday?
Get the welder out..
I'd mused over how to make a strong jacking point, not being a fan of just folded steel to put stands under I used a length of box section with a washer welded to it then that got welded to the side of the chassis rail, with strong bracing linking to the inner sill

New sill end made up then the end capped in, with an access hole for the 30mm grometts so it can be injected inside.
I'll make the rest of the lower inner arch later on as I may be dropping the rear axle, so that will make access a bit easier to repair the seam near the seat belt mounts

The drivers side sill again shows how when a car has been "repaired" you really have to be careful in assuming that means a good job has been done .

The new repairs outwardly looked OK although the rusted bottom lip that had been crumbled over very easily when jacking the car up led to thoughts that all may not be well. The metal added to make a flat jacking point was actually good and solid and could have done a good job but as it resembled an upturned box it would eventually fill with crud and rot from inside out.
So nothing for it but to cut it out and have a look.
The outer sill repair had already deleted one of the sill cover mounts but lo and behold the sill repair had just been laid over the old sill, covering the still in place plastic mount!

You will no doubt have noticed how rusted the repairs had become on the inside in just a short time, the old rust just transfers to the new metal, why it is vital to protect the inner repaired sections.
With the outer sill cut away it became clear wy the sill lip had folded so easily, the central reinforcer had rotted away and left unrepaired, this will all get redone.

I'm hopeful that the chassis itself will clean up enough to be useable but if not I will cut it out and make a new section.
There is a small hole at it's forward end that had been undersealed over which needs repairing.
I've decided that the rear axle will need dropping out so  I can get at some rust that's forming around the mounting points, which also means that the fuel tank will have to come out. Not all bad as I wanted to check around the inside of the fuel filler neck in the inner arch anyway where they can rot.
Also with the axle, or more accurately the hubs out of the way then repairing the seams between the boot floor and inner arches becomes much easier.

Never a bad thing to have the fuel tank out of the way when welding so close to it...

Very true, especially a plastic one!

As work seems back to normal I'll be able to get Wednesday afternoons at my unit to keep things ticking along on the Dedra now.
The drivers side rear jacking point needed making up. I like to fit a strong point with a large washer that will suit a trolley jack but also I use a home made adapter that fits in an upturned axle stand thus pinning the car down safely preventing it from being able to slide off, I'll demonstrate it later when I get the axle off.

Once the box section was welded to the chassis side the rest of the sill could be repaired including the missing central reinforcer and then an outer sill repair piece let in.
The hole at the front where the passenger footwell begins got a new piece let in underneath the end of the chassis rail then that tapped back down and welded solid.

I will box the sill end in later on as I need to remove more of the inner arch where it had previously been repaired but not all rot removed.

As I mentioned earlier, I will now definetly be taking the tank and axle out as not only is there some rust above the axle mounts but the fuel filler neck and vapour tank area also has corrosion which needs welding up.
Probably get it all out on Saturday then next Wednesday I can start chopping more rot out. Still, it's not as bad as I thought it was going to be.... Risking a certain amount of fate tempting...

Managed to get up to the workshop this afternoon for a few hours so got the fuel tank and back axle out.
Hardest part was trying to get the car manoeuvred off the stands and onto the new jacking points, fear of the whole car toppling sideways meant a nervy time but its now secure again.
Some rot found behind where the fuel tank filler sits, nothing drastic. The seam looks like it may need a repair after all, I'll have a look at it on Wednesday afternoon to see if I chop it all out after all.

The rear axle doesn't look too bad, a bit flaky in places so I'll take it all apart and get it blasted.
If I can find new bushes I'll get it powder coated, if not then they will stay in and I'll wet paint it.

Took the axle to work as thought I may have to press the old mounting bushes out, with the underside supported though a good whack with the hammer and they popped out easily, are only held in by a 10 to 15mm section of the axle so didn't put up much resistance.
I've also stripped the trailing arms down and have just put in a £200 order for new axle bushes, 4x flexi hoses, discs & pads, backing plates, rear hubs/bearings, load compensator valve and hand-brake cables. 
I am as yet undecided on the axle beam, just get it blasted and red oxide painted by the blasters then paint it when I've fitted the bushes, or get it blasted and powder coated but run the risk of chipping the powder coat when fitting the new bushes. I favour the former, and painting once the bushes are fitted will seal them.

With the axle out of the way I got a better look at the seam between the floor and inner wheel well.
I know I said I expected it to be all rotten when I got the car and was amazed at how good it was... But now I have seen it I will just go ahead and chop it all out as although it hasn't gone through all along it is rusty enough to warrant removing.

I started off on the passenger side as that is the worst, the area around the seat belt mount was rotten in the seam. I thought about leaving the piece where the ABS and suspension wires go through still in place but on the end it's best to just get rid of anything in doubt.

The reinforcer that supports the seat belt mount needed remaking as the old one was rusted and I actually previously cut in in half! Some 2mm steel did the job. This section stretches down and links in with the sill end so is a strong repair piece.

The aforementioned seam was next, I could have just cut the wheel well section out but decided a belt and braces approach was best, no point in doing things half hearted.

I needed a floor section and a vertical wheel well section which I planned to spot weld together leaving a hanging flange to provide a drip edges water would be discouraged from travelling towards the floor. Space would be a bit tight so I made it in one piece off the car.

3 channels hammered in then fit for lining up to the car, all nice and strong now with clean metal.

Bit of a clean up and some etch primer sprayed in then that's it for the afternoon. I'll carry on around the side next visit, whenever that may be.
I'm going to try and get it all done this summer but also I've decided not to put pressure on myself to get it done so if it isn't done then so be it, life goes too quickly to spend every spare moment on these jobs.

I'll keep the updates coming as and when, if anyone is still interested.
I'm determined to make as good a job of it as I can as I want this car to be a keeper.

Bit more done, if anyone is still following.
The rear corner near the wiring loom earth had some rust, so that all got cut out but thankfully it only went a few inches along the back panel.
The side panel where the vent sits had been repaired before, both the rusted original and the rusted replacement had to be gone.

A new panel made for the floor and spot welded to the new vent opening panel.

The rest of the opening and the inner arch that is covered in black underseal I'll chop out next time, it can't be any good under there.

The outer panel is a bit like Swiss cheese, the inner section much the same.
A bumper mount would be handy too!

Following this one to the bitter end Kevin! Probably Mathewsons? These are the best sort of threads on the forum.

Guy

I think a Dedra Turbo is probably a keeper my sons rate the one I had as the best car Dad ever had.

OK, good to know people are following, I'll carry on posting!  ;D
Ideally I'd like to keep this one, I had one years ago and loved it then, in a lot of ways a better car than the integrale as it goes under the radar without drawing attention to itself yet is still very capable.
Whatever though I will endeavor to rid it of all rust so it can now have its future assured.

There's a very nice, low mileage Dedra on eBay at the moment. Started at £7500 but down to £4500. Had it been a turbo instead of the 1.8 I suspect it would have been long gone...

3243 views as of today Kevin, so you definitely have a following, as always...

I'm a little surprised you aren't taking the back wings off to improve access given you are making such a thorough job of the restoration.

I wouldn't rule out taking the rear wings off , if only to see how simple that is. I've left them on so far as a reference point, to repair the inner wing section where it meets the outer quarter it will indeed be easier with it all out of the way. Once the lower floor sections are done I will look at it again.

Good to know people are following. Not as quick a pace as the Y10 build was, but then I'm back at work full time so this is just my spare time build now, and I'm in no rush.

The inner arch had some rust where a grommet had been, the inner arch is the centre of the 3 layers that form the seam where the door seal fits.
The rot had set into the seam, some on the inner arch too so a hole was cut.

Spot welded plates to the seam, they're actually a bit more fiddly to make that it first appeared as they aren't a 90 deg fold, which upsets the curving. Good enough though, at least the rot is out and new steel in, for that piece anyway!

Some 2pack etch primer will keep it safe for now

I'm still yet to decide about taking the outer quarter off, have got as far as taking the bolts out but I'm loath to disturb the original sealant and bend the flanges to remove it when it's just the bottom few inches of arch.
I may have one to come from the consortium, a door is sorted and there may be a quarter available.
For now I've cut enough away to gain good access to all the rotten inner arch.
Not pretty, like a serious case of rot, but as ever you have to keep cutting back until the metal is good.
And this way I have good access and the alignment of the door and boot etc is kept.

Looks worse than it is, I've made templates of the original piece cut out plus of course I have the removed sections as templates.
Also while I had some etch on the gun I rubbed down the new rear disc backing plates I got and primed them so they can be done in 2pack black. They get a hard life with dirt and water plus heat from the brakes so being painted should help prolong their life.

A week or two since I've posted, I've been distracted a little by an Alfa GTV that I seemed to have bought, and a Toyota MR2 as it happens, but if truth be told I've been putting off doing the inner arch repairs as it really is a pain to do, welding upside down and trying to create a 3D repair out of fresh air.
But with the day off work today I had to get to it.
The remaining rotten edges were cut back an dthe an attempt to make a panel to cover at least half of the the inner arch was made, but it became apparent that I'd be ages, days even trying to get a single panel formed that would fit everywhere so the simplest solution was to make several smaller panels.
The section under the little bucket where the door lock mount is got a simple enough panel made up and allowed the lock bucket piece to be spot welded to it for added strength.

The inner, car side of the rearmost section was next, finally time to join up the repaired floor pieces.
Not the prettiest repairs but all rust has now gone and it's solid again.

Time to make the sections that will link to the new outer lower 1/4 panel, once I make a new one!
A new full length curved piece needs making for the curved arch but the straight piece is about right height wise, it will gain a horizontal return section once things start going back together on the outer piece.
Once that's all in place then a new bumper mount bracket can be made so still a bit to do!

I've finally got back to working on the car now the temperature has eased a little, getting wrapped up for welding in near 30 degrees outside but far hotter in the workshop was not for me.
The drivers side looked OK but of course at this stage the sensible thing to do is just cut out any doubt, so the seam cut removed as the passenger side did.
This side however isn't a straight lip as it curves to clear the fuel tank filler neck. Some use of the shrinker/stretcher to make a curved repair piece before spot welding a new side piece on, similar to the other side.

Copious amounts of etch primer ensures that it runs into the seam, later on the seams will be seam sealed but it is vital that no hidden areas are left with bare steel especially where welded as that encourages corrosion to set in.
Weather permitting I will get up there on Wednesday and get some more done.

Delighted to see some metal working action again.

Loved our Dedra Turbo, that we swapped for a car I didn't love when trips to Barry Waterhouse Engineering for the work on it became too much, a couple of months after my eldest was born, which was when the tax expired on the Austin 7 special, etc...

Yes, I remember our Dedra turbo well David to, a great family car that covered most bases, fast and comfortable, very good sized boot especially with the folding rear seats, rare and non descript enough to be able to be left anywhere and it be still there on your return!

I managed to get some more welding done this afternoon. The drivers side rear floor was a bit rusty on the underside, not enough to be holed but whilst I'm at it the section was removed and a new one made and let in, complete with the two holes needed for the ABS sensor wires and the electronic shock absorbers.

Inside rear drivers floor.

The sill end boxed in, with 25mm hole for access to the inside so it can be blasted with cavity wax, I use a hole cutting drill to suit the rubber grommets, always handy.

The nut is for the seat belt anchorage point, needs to be pretty solid of course!

Underside will get seam sealed over all the welds once the etch primer has gone off, once the seam sealer has been on a few days and the solvents dried out it will all be given a coat of stoneguard protection then some 2pack red paint along with the inner arches.

Still got the chassis rails to clean up of course, and the passenger outer arch to make up and fit, and the rust behind the fuel filler mount, and the bumper mounts... So the painting the underside stage is still some way off!

The welding is almost done now, beavering away the last few days whilst on holiday, of sorts.
Today was supposed to be just a day to tidy up a few bits and seam seal all the welds before it all gets stoneguard applied at the weekend.
As ever though there's always a bit you miss, this time a crunchy looking part behind the bumper mount that attaches to the back panel.
The bracket got the spot welds drilled out so it could be removed to be reused then a new outer panel made up with the section for the boot floor.
Another smaller section further along needed doing too.... So fingers crossed that's it for the rear end..

I've also taken what may seem an unusual decision and enlisted a friend who does paintwork full time to prep and paint the bodyshell for me. Not because I can't, but because I can't see me having the time to get it all done this year with work and all.
This way it will be fully painted by mid September so I can concentrate on getting it all back together without it sitting there until next spring awaiting my attention, and I'll get my spare time back.
Part of the decision to thin down the fleet, although the Flavia coupe may get to stay as a retirement project!

Last Saturday all the welding repairs got covered with the stonechip protection, this provides a nice thick rubberised layer over the etch primer and seam sealer so it should keep the moisture out.

I was going to leave the insides smooth but as I say, this stuff gives good coverage and protection

This afternoon I put the red on so it will be dry by Saturday so the axle can go back on. Was just going to do it in black but as I had the proper colour I did it red so I could also do the insides at the same time.

You'll notice the bumper mounts have been made. I haven't bothered doing the whole width of the boot floor in red as it is covered by the fuel tank, rear axle and then the rear undertray so it's basically a waste of paint to do it red. I will give it a coat of rust preventing wax oil type stuff before the tank goes on.

The rear panel will get painted when the shell gets done, this is just me ensuring the underside got coated so that should be fine for years.

What a lucky Dedra to get treated soo well!  Nice work!

Thank you!  8)

Started to refit the rear axle beam and suspension, as much as you try and be prepared though there always seems to be the odd bracket or two that get missed and need blasting and painting.
Plus I forget bits and bobs, like the rubber spring seat mounts for the top.
Hopefully the rest will get built up soon, although I may well leave the full axle build up until after paint.

Well, it's 6 weeks or so since I last posted and no, I've not given up on the car
I made the decision that I could spend until Christmas rubbing it all down to be faced with trying to spray the car in the dead of winter with all the issues that brings, not to mention it taking every minute of any spare time I had. No, the answer was to chat with Sean in the neighboring unit who does paintwork full time to see if he would sort the car out for me.
An agreeable price and time frame was met and the results are now that I have a painted car ready to start the rebuild next weekend.

He's done a great job on sorting all the dents out, my repairs to the passenger rear quarter panel not least of them!
There was a huge amount of tiny dents all over it in reality, but now it looks great in fresh red paint.
The door frames and other black parts I'll e doing myself.
The refit will start next weekend.
Rear brakes and axle fit to finish off, fuel tank etc. Roof lining needs taking out and a new one making. Sunroof panel itself can then come out as it has rust to the mechanism, a decent replacement came with the car.
Then it's just a case of cleaning it all up and putting it all back together, no rush as I've given myself a March deadline!

Inspiration, if it were needed.
By next spring I should have a nice pair of 4 door turbocharged Lancia’s to choose from

Looking Good!

Finally got all the little brackets and new pieces sorted ready to build up the back brakes. One flexi bracket remained lost so had to make a mirror image of the other side, how many times must I keep messing up the storage of parts!

Loads of new parts went on, new hubs/bearings, new discs and pads with flexi hoses and pipes, new pressure regulator too so should be OK for a while.

The rear calipers got stripped and new seals fitted then a clean and a lick of paint for good measure

Now the rear brakes and suspension is done I can start to think about fitting the bumper, I'll spray some rust preventative tetrosyl on it first.

Exhaust to fit too next time then I can start on getting the interior back in order.
Roof lining needs taking out and a new one making, then the whole inside needs a really good clean!

Making a headlining sounds a bit of a faff. Might TDC have a good one in stock? Otherwise it looks fabulous, as always. Auto Italia are gearing up to do a feature on Y10s which your two examples might feature in.

Hi Kevin,
Unless the headlining is damaged but only needs cleaning, I'd be inclined to clean it as alacantara can be washed, although it shouldn't be soaked, have you got  the headlining out, or were you anticipating recovering it in situ?

Brian
8227 8)

The headlining is all droopy, I'm assuming it's a material stuck to cardboard in the same way as the integrale was, and my 145 too.
I replaced both of those using new material, once the complete assembly is out of the car it's not too bad a job to do. A faff yes, but the liekihood of getting a really nice one would be slim and would most likely have the same issue with aged glue.
I had a few emails about the Y10 photoshoot for the Auto Italia feature last year but the covid situation scuppered things, it'd be nice to see them in print though anyway, hopefully they are well received.
Thanks for the kind words re the ongoing work guys, it's a slog sometimes to keep at it after a busy week at work but it needs doing, and will be worth the effort in the end I'm sure.

The exhaust system has been a bit of a quandary, new systems for the turbo don't seem to exist anymore.
I do need one of course even if eventually a stainless one can be made to suit.
I bought a combined middle and rear one piece for a Fiat Tempra TD as it had the largest bore size but still not quite as the Dedra one. It also had a nice rolled tailpipe rather than just a cut end.
It wasn't until it arrived and compared to the original one that it dawned on me that although it fitted around the suspension etc the same, as they are the same underneath, the problem came that the Dedra (and Alfa 155) have a section added on to the rear  chassis rail to extend the rear out, so the tailpipe was about a foot too short!

After exhausting (pun intended) all avenues for the supply of a correct middle and rear I just had to make do with what I had.
The bore sizes turned out to be the same so it wouldn't sleeve over the front silencer so a joining sleeve was needed, handily I had some suitable pipe to hand.
The middle box had a missing hanger so that needed cutting off the old system and welding to the new so then I could hang it where it needed to be.

With that settled and the tailpipe cut off the new system I could line it up with the bumper outlet and make up a length to join the pieces up. Hanger brackets also needed to be made up for the rear support.

Once back on the car I'm very happy with the results. It will last a few years being mild steel, 4 or 5 years without being used in winter at least. Once that fails I'll get a stainless one made.

Chuffed with my afternoons work, doesn't look out of place at all, even got the undertray back on!

Looks great Kevin👍
Brian
8227 8)

Nice work...I like the rolled edge on the tailpipe...

The rear spoiler I had intended to repair before the car went to paint but as ever things never go to plan and time ran out.
The issue with the spoiler was all but one of the mounting lugs twisted out when it was removed due to the brackets being rusted after 30 years of British weather.
My solution was to cut out the rotten steel that was imbedded in the spoiler and make some new brackets.

The 4 brackets were made to size to suit the spoiler and shaped to follow the bootlid contours, bolts welded to the topside and holes made in the spoiler so the bonding agent could grab on better rather than just a flat surface.

Masking tape laid on the bootlid to protect the paint and also to stop excess bonder glueing it down then I left it for a week to set properly.
Important to do it this way rather than just bond each individual bracket when off the car so it ensures the bolt alignment is in place but also that the brackets will sit straight when it goes back on once painted.
A layer of neoprene will be used to make gaskets.

Yesterday I took the spoiler off and happily it had all set nicely.
The brackets have set really firmly but still with a degree of flex so it won't crack away.
Now they are all set in place I can tidy them up and apply more sealant to make them watertight and neat.

Nice when a few bits go back on too, small steps to get it back on the road.

Another sideways step it may seem.. One day all the jobs will be done and the car will be done, but until then I'll carry on taking sideways or what seems to be backwards steps!!

I have a list of jobs that need doing under the bonnet, a fuel leak somewhere within the pipework to the injectors, an oil leak or two, a power steering leak, etc etc plus the cambelt to change and I want to check the clutch so the simplest solution is to drop the whole lot out.

I can also now clean all the engine bay and check for any signs of rust in the chassis rails and underside of the strut towers. Engine and gearbox will be able to get much cleaner too, some parts will get cleaned up and some powder coated. I recalled the integrale having a steel water pipe down the back of the engine which was showing signs of corrosion so that one got blasted and powder coated, I'll do the same with this one assuming it survives..
There was a potential for disaster which I'm surprised hadn't gone wrong before now, one of the heater pipes which is completely hidden from view looks to have had a jubilee clip digging into it for years, I'm amazed it hadn't already blown!
Not sure if I'll be able to repair it with a joining sleeve or even find a replacement, but as there is a reasonable amount of room to reroute it I may just do that.

The car does have a different breather unit to the integrale though, and from memory my old Dedra turbo didn't have this either. It's like a catch tank setup, 3 pipes to it from the oil separator unit behind the manifold then others to the turbo intake and bavk yo the sump. Is this usual for the Dedra?

As I'd taken the engine out to do a few jobs and found the rear water pipe to be fairly corroded inside I contemplated taking the head off to assess the waterways, the cambelt and both manifolds were to come off anyway so rude not to...
Plus I could then lap the valves in and change the stem seals which wouldn't hurt.
With the engine on the stand a friend Terry asked if I was going to check the bottom end out too, seeing as I'm almost there anyway...

So much for doing a few little jobs!

All looks OK but will benefit from a new set of seals and gaskets, seals can go hard over time and start weeping.
Some of the rubber breather hoses have gone rock hard with age.

Nice bit of bling though, had a call from the wheel refurbishers and collected the rims back.
Considering how bad they were with quite a lot of pitting on the faces and generally very rough I did at least have one with some original paint so they could get a decent match for the bits that aren't diamond cut.

Kevin,
The refurbed wheels look better than the factory finish !!!
 
Superb work as always.
 
Regards,
Tim

I can't thank Jason and his guys enough for the fantastic job they did on the wheels Tim, I only wish I'd taken a "before" shot to show how bad they were, most had been painted silver and were badly pitted on the face, I feared Jason would say they were too bad to do but he reckonned they'd be fine.
He showed me some they'd done and what they would be doing, odd to see a 1 Tonne builders bag being filled with Aluminium shavings!

If anyone wants any wheels doing I can highly recommend them.

 https://www.simplywheelslincoln.com/

I'm open to correction, but Lancia were way ahead with this style of finish to the Dedra wheels, 30-odd years ago. Now every car has alloys with the machined face and contrasting paint on the edges of the 'spokes'.
A bit like the Y10 with the black hatch 😊
 
Tim

I still firmly believe that Lancia, and more recently Alfa Romeo were very much at the forefront of trend setting, the Italian flair for design and engineering being more importatnt than the German way of just trying to be efficient.
So many things were just copied, the Japanese were famous for it.
Like when the 156 came out and then Honda etc copied the hidden rear door handles to create the coupe illusiion.
Even the 70's and 80's cars that I grew up with were streets ahead of anything from Ford or BL.
I can only wonder what the early pre war Lancia cars were like with the innovations of the Lambda era stuff.
I did a week or two at a place that restores 20's Bentley cars and they are so agricultural it's unreal, having come from a Locomotive background I guess that's hardly surprising, but the engineering on the Lancia with the lightweight chassis and trick suspension, they must have seemed like spaceships back then.

Attributed to Ettore Bugatti is the comment 'Mr Bentley is a very clever man to make his lorries go so fast'.

Kevin,
I think the Lancia Ypsilon was first with the hidden door handles, but on the front doors.
Brian
8227 8)

Not a great deal to report, the engine rebuild is continuing at a slow pace with things being checked and plans made as more and more issues arise!
The head was brought home for a decoke and replace the valve stem seals, lap the valves in and replace all the seals and gaskets then reset the clearances. Thought I'd also get it skimmed whilst off for a belt and braces approach. On taking the valves out though it became apparent that the valve guides were very worn, an inkling that all was not well was the exhaust stem seals having melted to the top of the guide whic I assume would be due to the heat travelling up with the excess clearance? Never had so much trouble in removing old stem seals.
So the head is away having new guides fitted and then skimmed.

Thankfully the bores in the block are just about within tolerance so dosen't need a rebore, new piston rings will suffice. The big end & main shells to be changed, crank in great shape.
I've had the crank out this weekend to do the main shells and change the balance shaft seals and gaskets, not gorgetting the "O" ring oil seals that fit under the sleeves on the balance shaft ends which had gone very hard and shattered like plastic on removal.
Front and rear crank seals renewed.
The rear seal fits in an alloy housing, the same as the integrale as it's basically the same engine. When I did that one I managed to crack the housing on fitting the new seal as the material is quite thin where it apexes near the sump. I rang Guy Croft (R.I.P.) and he chastised me for tapping in a new seal with a hammer in the standard fasion. Apparently it's common for them to crack there in fitted in the usual manner, the technique is to warm the housing up in the oven at about 120deg to make it expand which I did but also had placed the new seal in the freezer for a few hours.
Result was the seal pushed in quite simply by hand and a light tap with the hammer with the housing on a piece of flat hardwood and all is well.

The turbo has been sent away to the same place that did the integrale one for a refurbishment, it appears the original so will no doubt benefit from some attention.
Loads of parts keep arriving awaiting fitment, my shed is getting full of parts that have been cleaned and painted, a box full of items are away at the blasters to be then powder coated so lots going on but not much visual progress!

Once the weather warms a little I'll also do some prep and paint to the underside of the chassis rails whlist the engine bay is fairly empty, get everything tidy and shipshape as best as I can make it.

The seats are away being retrimmed, new Alcantara having been ordered fromEU at great expense!

Hopefully around April/May everything will be done, in time for a decent shakedown before the AGM. 

Got a few parts back from being blasted and powder coated, also have the rad fan cowling and the lower crossmember too so a good bunch of bits ready for the refit.

Nice work Kevin.
Clarkey

I managed to snap one of the mounting bolts off for the passenger headlight ages ago at strip down, I tried to drill the mounting lug but being plastic with a steel sleeve the inevitable happened and the lug broke off. Damn.
Now used ones are available but it seems a shame to discard an otherwise perfect unit.
I figured that a bracket could be made up.
This I made using some flat steel folded over a grinder disc key to get the right slot gap.

The raised area on the headlamp I drilled some holes in for extra adhesion for the glue.

The bracket, which I had painted for protection, was slid into place and bonded using 2 pack epoxy having already checked for the alignment.

Lastly a  small piece of neoprene glued to the face to create a gasket to go against the front panel rather than metal to metal, the other mounts being plastic.

Front struts have been stripped, top mounts/springs etc all cleaned and painted.
New bump stops and dust covers so now all built up ready for fitting.

The front crossmember had some corrosion around the bumper mount brackets which of course was more than just a bit of surface rust, so needed to be cut out and welded up.
The outriggers also had a few rusty areas but being much thicker steel it hadn't caused any real harm.
So with a few patches of repaired areas and with the engine etc removed I thought I may as well put some fresh paint on the inner wings and strut towers.
Of course this has taken a few trips to get sorted, but thankfully it's now all ready to accept the running gear again, once I get that built back up!

Once it's hardened off I'll iject some cavity wax into the vulnerable areas like that crossmember, hopefully it'll then last for many a year to come.
Hoping I'll be able to press on a bit more now and have it ready for the AGM...

A few more jobs done this weekend, tidying up some loose ends that seem to get pushed aside.
Front calipers had previously been stripped and cleaned ready for the new seals and some paint, they're all done now.
The mirror bodies that were painted a few weeks ago are now reunited with the glass and casings.
New screws will be added to the underside once I remember to bring some home from my unit!

The rear spoiler I repaired a while back still sat awaiting being painted, every time I walked in the shed it reminded me of the task still to do so I set to today.
There was quite a few splits in the back  edge where the spoiler gets used to raise and lower the bootlid, which cracks the paint with flexing.
On consulting my friend who is a pro painter about the best course of action taking it back to the rubber is the only option to get the cracks out.
I then used an adhesion promotor and then the topcoat straight over that with plasticisor in the 2 pack paint so it remains a certain amount of flexibility even after drying off. Primers especially the high build variety are to be avoided due to them becoming too hard and prone to cracking, so I am told.
Trouble is though the rubber is black and the red takes many layers to cover it, near 10 coats in the end as the first 3 or 4 only just covered it up.

Not ideal paint spraying conditions to hand now that I've given up my small unit that served me well as a paint and repair workshop but at least the sunshine is a great drying agent!
I placed the spoiler on some stilts using the mounting bolts with some stiff plastic lengths so I could do the underside and the new mounts all in one.
A bit of dust and the odd insect but happy enough with the outcome.
Getting it back into the workshop without dropping it or sticking a finger in the soft paint was thankfully successful!

I've been to see the trimmer tonight to take him the last of the seat material for the retrim, getting the central pattern lined up nicely meant another Metre needed ordering, simple enough but as it's coming from Finalnd it's costly and takes a bit of time although at least this batch came well under the import duty threshold so escaped being impounded at customs.
I've been worried that it has been a silly and expensive part of the rebuild, maybe I should have sourced another set of seats or made do with the blue Alcantara ones I had, but having seen some of the pieces already done I can't wait to see it all done, even if it would have been cheaper to get two cowhides and have it all done in leather!

As for the car itself the engine is pretty much done and ready to connect back to the gearbox for fitting back into the engine bay.
Whilst the engine has been out I've done a few precautionary jobs while access is easy, fitted new steering rack boots, new brake pipes for the fronts and a new line and flexi arrangement for the clutch to replace to 30 year old original, the old and weak power steering rubber lines also got changed while at it. I've also replaced the rubber fuel lines that run along the inlet manifold as these too are old and were leaking, the correct spec fuel pipe that is Ethanol resistant is very expoensive but still way cheaper than an engine fire would be!

With the seats the only person you need to please is yourself, and it sounds like you're going to be delighted with it.

Spoiler another labour of love.

For me interesting "just" to see the structure exposed at the front. 

Managed to get the assembly lifted up into place without too much drama thankfully, newly powder coated brackets for the oil cooler and intercooler mounts plus nice red engine bay paint meant extra caution in trying not to scratch anything!
A long stud in each chassis rail to help guide the engine mounts up into place helped.

I've started putting things back on being as methodical as possible to try and not have to backtrack any, so far so good...

You're right about the seats David. I did wonder about the originality or not scenario, even thought about just doing them in full alcantara like others, but as you say it's me that's going to be sat in it so why not just go with it. From what I've seen of the pieces Graham has done so far I think they will be a nice and distinctive thing for the car.

Clutch pipe change now complete, the original was in one long piece with the flexi part of the metal section so as the metal part was quite rusty and I wanted to change the flexi portion anyway I made it all up to suit.
New slave cylinder fitted this afternoon and a short curled joining pipe made up. Should last a few years...

It's worth mentioning this again, just incase anyone doing a top end rebuild doesn't know, I didn't until the integrale sprang a leak..
When fitting the 2 exhaust manifold studs back into the head they need to have threadlock on them as they protrude through into the cylinder head cavity right where the oil return pockets are..
The other 3 are just in blind holes so are not necessary to threadlock in.
The issue is the hot oil travels down the thread of the top two and causes that horrible oil burning smell.

With the breather pipes finally all set in position, after having to backtrack to get them in place it was time to finally get out the refurbished turbo..  8)

Starting to look like an engine bay being filled again, soon to be filled more and more!
Some breather pipes and water pipes to renew and a faff trying to remember where everything goes but handy having the spare built up engine as a reference.
Shouldn't be too long now...

Help needed to identify a rouge connection!
It appears to come from the factory loom and appears original, but I can't figure out (or remember) where it goes to!
It comes from between the power steering reservoir and the ABS unit at the bulkhead, only 6 or 8" long so has a very limited range of where it could go, stretches to the throttle body but no further, so it has a small range of locations to suit.
The plug is a square one with 4 connection pins, wires come into it at right angles.
I can't rule out it going to the relay box that has the black cover over it, but I really can't recall where it goes! The cleanliness of the pins makes me sure it was attached to something...
The wires to it are; a red, a black, an orange and a blue with white tracer.
Any ideas guys?

I think I've sussed it.....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192637106116?epid=1534580201&hash=item2cda10f7c4%3Ag%3AGawAAOSwt%7E5bgSv2&LH_ItemCondition=4

This is an ABS relay which looks exactly a fit for that plug, pin orientation and the pin to align the terminals in the correct order, I just need to see if there is a relay on the bulkhead where this plug has been pulled off of, or if I'm missing the relay itself.

Interestingly though I called in at my friends place today to have a look at his Dedra turbo but couldn't even see the lead and plug! Maybe it does stretch under that black relay cover..
The plug is also branded "W.Germany" on the back which would point to it being a Bosch item rather than a Marelli one, another pointer that it is ABS related.

I also had a look around the integrale but couldn't find a thing looking similar so convinced it's not an engine related part, and that car has no ABS which makes sense that it doesn't have that conncetor, different car I know but same engine.

Now I've got things in order I can start putting it all back together, although I'm still coming across mislaid items, not lost.... just mislaid!  ;D
The intercooler shroud evades capture at the moment..

Will it be finished in time for the AGM?
Can't wait to see it finished.
Brian
8227 8)

I'd say it's pretty unlikely unfortunately.
Still a list of jobs to do that will take time.
Interior needs sorting out, seats to fit which I haven't got back yet..
Door frames need painting black.
Boot area needs refitting.
Sill covers, side strips, etc etc.
There's still quite a list of "little" jobs to do, which take time to sort through and make good rather than just throw stuff together that looks rough or doesn't work!
Then of course it needs an mot... And I haven't started the engine yet..

Another job ticked off the list today.
A while back I had to fix the rear spoiler, all the mounts were rotten and useless so I made new ones and bonded them in
It's been painted for a while now so just needed a flat and polish then prep for fitting.
Some 2mm self adhesive neoprene foam sheet was cut to suit for the contact points to meet the bootlid. This is waterproof but also squishy enough to make up for any undulations in the bootlid or mounts.
Very happy with the results.
The mounts fit lovely and straight, it's not under any stress so will sit OK. Rubber grease on the studs with domed nuts so in theory it should be removable in another 10 years if needed, rather than the studs or mounts rusting any.
Two pics to show how my crappy mobile phone camera doesn't seem to work with red cars!  ;D

The side repeater indicators in the front wing had connections that looked a bit poor, they often give trouble with intermittent lighting or fail completely.
Being as the connector is behind the wheel arch liner they're a pain to get at so best to do something with them now I figured.
They could have been cleaned and even new terminals fitted but this should be a better solution.
Waterproof and sealed connections soldered into the loom with heat shrink then loom tape so should be fine for a good few years yet.

Well, another setback now overcome.
I did have the engine running a few weeks back and it ran very well indeed, apart from a blow at the exhaust manifold to the head.
Being upstream of the turbo using exhaust paste is not a good idea, or any sealant really as any extra residue would be fired straight into the turbo innards.
I had noted that the flange was a bit pitted but had hoped it would be OK, the gasket seal around the weak spot.

It wasn't easy to find someone to skim the face due to the awkward shape, getting it to sit level for the milling machine to make a few flat passes meant a jig being fashioned by the guy who eventually agreed to do it after 3 or 4 guys said they couldn't do it.
Got the manifold back this week so it's now got the turbo back on.

All back together again, well almost...

Engine all back together and running well, just a few details to finish off.
Finally got the refurbished wheels back on, very pleased with the way it's looking now.
The black door frames and weather strips I hope to paint this next week.
Once the side skirts and rubbing strips are back on then it's onto the interior...
Sunroof needs swapping out for a better one as there is some rust on the glass panel surround. Also the roof lining needs retrim ming whilst I'm at it..
Once the seats come back then it won't be far off done at last, but expect that to be another month or two away..

I see you have headlamps with wipers. Do the motors still work of have the gearboxes rusted up as they usually do?

Purely decorative Frank, as you rightly say they're seized.
I did contemplate stripping them down and getting working but didn't bother, may look at doing so in the future but always more pressing jobs to attend to.
To be honest the ones I had on my old Dedra were pretty ineffective and often snagged themselves on the bonnet stops so I'm in no rush to set them going, but they look nice!

When Frank and myself checked them on my first Dedra a 2 0iese  the gears inside the motor were real nasty  ,rusty and worn, and mine used to wave at me over the bonnet, later ones had a bracket to stop them doing so, best ones were on my 1994 Dedra ls, that had high pressure jets rather than wipers.
Brian  8)
8227

I suspect the seal on the wiper spindles wasn't up to scratch allowing water into the gearbox which, having no drain, led to rusted solid gears. A resurrection would probably involve remaking the gears in something more durable or less perishable.

Found these on ebay whilst trawling the usual, glad to have finally found another Dedra with the exact same seat material that was in my car, there'd been some doubt as to them being original as nobody had ever seen them but the trimmer that is (still...) redoing mine insisted that the stitching and general care of alignment of stiching to pattern was so poor that they were in his opinion 100% OE as no self respecting trimmer would ever make stiches across the hoizontal that completely avoided any attempt to follow the pattern.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225121647260?hash=item346a4bba9c%3Ag%3AL6kAAOSwlPFi%7EBQW&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoELNbI4HbJShaABwX3RXYsU5bScKeZWgKywnj39UOO%2Bf2BlII0AR65GvILnuMPxtNkxACoiYh%2F4fMV3AMAQNOq22GcAGEUnJtxQNm7Aa%2FvXioCl9%2BTv79znoqtOs1j4MW6yfgB1dNJq%2B1VY7MAAyzTZv%2BAwu4A6rgIEwzQ7Oi2jFZT7%2BSsA%2BkDoRvW%2BKOh%2BZyIT7ETkqNSw5r2xWTATOb9U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-autfXYYA&LH_ItemCondition=4

These were my originals.. Keys matched too so another point for them being there from new..

My fake alcantara arrived recently so I can get on with retrimming the roof lining.
Whilst everything sunroof related was out I attended to a few issues and gave the sunroof channels a clean and paint up, also the metal frame surrounding the glass panel itself had some rust so that needed sorting out.
As I will be replacing the saggy headlining with new material that of course meant the sliding panel that pulls over the glass sunroof will also need doing to match.
A fiddly job gluing it all in place, I'm not looking forward to doing the much larger main headlining on Saturday!
Pleased with the result though, this panel needed doing now so the glue will fully dry by Saturday as it fits within the sunroof frame, which I want to fit back in the car!

Fiddly, and not a job I particularly enjoy but had to be done.
I'll cut out the sunroof hole later once the glue has fully dried.
It will get left for a week that way up to give it a decent chance of staying glued before refitting!
Saying that though, I'll be getting a new front windscreen fitted soon so will leave it out until that's done so its easier for the fitter.

I also plan on doing the rear quarter trim and the B post trims, but although the B post trim is now completely loose it is trapped to the car by the pull button for the seat belt adjuster, which I can't figure out how it comes off!
It doesn't appear to have a cover over it so a screw can be undone.. Does anyone know how it comes off?

Not sure but if you pull the knob to its lowest position does it expose another fitting?
I'll see if there's anything in my manuals

Brian
8227 8)

Does the pull knob unscrew?

I haven't tried pulling it right down and looking for anything holding it on, there is a slot (or is now after all my poking and prodding!) on the underside of the knob but no sign of the face coming off or anything.
I also tried twisting it which I did get it to turn through 90degs, which a nasty cracking of plastic sound, but that's as far as it went, now it turns through 180degs, 90 either side of where it should be...
The pillar trim itself is completely unattached now from the car but is trapped to the car by this sliding control knob, I don't want to retrim the rear C popst trims without being able to do these so any help would be appreciated  8)

Hi Kevin,
How about warming the knob up to see if its a straight pull off?
I did check nothing my workshop manuals but nothing about it.
Have you tried looking on Eper, if you can get on, it should show how it goes together?
Brian

8227 8)
 Just looked on eper, the knob appears to pull off, and once you've removed the top seat belt mounting bolt the surround should pull off.

Thanks for the suggestions and advice guys, the part about it appearing to pull of on eper was a big help Brian.
As I also needed to go up to the unit to put some plastic masking dust sheet over the retrimmed roof panel (sat on the Clio roof under a clean bed sheet but with wind and rain forecast the workshop can become drippy) I was keen on having another go armed with the new advice.
As it now looked like it must pull off, it could be rotated and the cap definitely does jot come off, so it must pull off somehow.
It came to me then... What if there was a clip like on some window winder handles?
Looked like something was in there on the only open section..

You can just about get a pick in there to hook onto the eye of the clip.

Once the clip is pulled down enough the knob dies indeed just pull off allowing the panel to be finally unscrewed off the car.
The peg that the knob fits over has a groove that the pin aligns with, so just a push fit back on.

I can now retrim the rear quarter trims and these B post trims in the same material as the roof lining.

These are the pillar trims that I wanted to retrim in the matching material to the roof lining, having finally got the B post ones off I can finally get them done.

As you can see, not terrible but very dirty and with some red overspray or sanding dust on them.

I thought they'd be a doddle to do compared to the roof lining but they turned out to be a bit fiddly and with many a curve and twist on the rear C post ones it's not something I'd rush out to do again!

The holes for the seat belt to pass through on the rear ones and for the slider adjuster on the B post ones has a recess for the metal guide to fit into, tangs on the back can be carefully folded open to remove then crushed back down to o refit, not sure how many times they'd survive being folded though, one clip was already missing!

Quite pleased with the results though, the crumpled bottom part of the rear one (left side in picture) sits under the rear parcel shelf out of sight so I'm not overly concerned about that, it needs a strip of cushioning foam for the shelf to sit on yet anyway.

The anticipated windscreen replacement has been put on hold though whilst Autoglass await delivery of a new 'screen... Fingers firmly crossed!

Still no sign of the windscreen arriving so decided to refit all the roof lining and pillar trims back in.

3 doors all built up now, mirrors on, central locking and windows working well. Weather strips on. Just the door seal for the passenger window glass to sort then that door can be built up.
Starting to look better with some more black contrasting parts fitted.

Looking great Kevin!

Brian
8227 8)

Thanks Brian.
Slowly coming together, long since given up on being out this year so no real rush now, but next year I want it ready to go for around April.
 

Well I finally have a new front windscreen fitted after originally placing the order in early September!
The first company accepted my online order but called the next day to say it was out of stock and would be ordered in.
I didn't think this would be too much of an issue.....After 2 months of waiting and asking they finally said they couldn't find one in the UK!
Last month I contacted Auto Windscreens who again said they could do the car, but after explaining to the booking agent the dramas beforehand she agreed to check with her stock team first before completing the booking, especially as seeing I would be paying in full as my insureres don't use this company, but would use the first company who of course couldn't find one!
She said they would be back in touch within 24 hours, not really expecting a positive outcome.
They did call back the next morning, as promised, and said that there are 3 types of front 'screens listed. A clear, a bronze tint and a green tint. Which one was mine she says? A green, I said. That's handy she says, as that's the only one we can find available!
Of course at this point I would accept any! The kicker though was she said that this is the only one they could find, not just the only available listing but there was just 1 in stock! So as she says, if it's damaged in the warehouse or in transit to them then that's it, no stock available.
So with the booking made for when I had a day off they turned up at the expected time to my rented unit with me wondering if it would arrive in one piece, but as I'd heard nothing to the contrary then assumed all was well...which indeed it was. They'd sent a great guy out who liked the car as he'd not seen one in years, took the 'screen out of his van carefully then noted they hadn't ordered the rubber seal/moulding for it! Doh. He kept a few universal type ones with him but he said they were nothing like this one which has a flat rubber top with raised seals for the sides which go under the side metal trims.
A phone call to his office thankfully found a seal available to order, and for less than £20 so the order was placed, just a shame it wasn't mentioned at the original order..
He did though agree to cut the old 'screen out whilst he was there though so at least I could inspect the recess for any rust or corrosion and fix it before they came back again rather than fitting the glass, so every cloud and all that!
Luckily though it was all perfect, not a single piece of corrosion as this was the original one, having the glue/old 'screen cut out often scratches the paint whcih then allows rust to form. But the fitter used great care and got it all out without damage despite it being "like concrete" to cut through the old sealant. An interesting tool he used which had a very strong stainless thin cable on an ancor point suctioned to the outside of the glass with another tool suctioned to the inside which he moved around the glass using a ratchet to pull the cable along slicing the sealant as it was pulled around. I could see the amount of strain it was taking, you'd be hard pressed to have cut the hardenned sealant with any knife.
This last Thursday was the booked date for the new glass to finally go in, assuming the seal was correct..
I had a call from the fitter in the morning to say he'd be with me by 3PM which was perfect. But, he says, on removing the stickers from my new glass they'd found some tiny scratches and had tried to find another replacement but there simply aren't any in the country. Damn I thought, is this just the end of the rainbow for a windscreen!
When he showed me the scratches though they were tiny, almost invisible and right at the top so outside of any issues so at last some good news.
The new seal was just like the old one and from there on it was all good, 30 mins later the new glass was in and looking great. Just don't drive it for half an hour the fitter laughed  ;D
I've refitted the gutter trims, scuttle covers and side metal covers since then and once the sill covers go on I can finally give the car a much needed wash as it will all be watertight.
Who would have thought the windscreen would be so near to the biggest problem, so a note to all Dedra owners, look after your windcsreen and snap up any that you see for sale!

Epic!   I like the sound of that wire cutter.

It's a fascinating yet simple idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPZyIfJLJpk

Daft question, or more acurately a daft person asking the question for not taking note..
The windscreen wiper arms are sided, there's more of a kink in the arm near the blade mount. But I didn't take note which side is which...Anybody able to say before i refit them? Guess it may become obvious...

The small kick up one ends in the middle of the screen and the large kick up one ends by the screen pillar.

Excellent, thanks again Frank

Finally got enough of the car done to allow a wash without fear of filling a cavity somewhere that didn't need it!
Cold but dry and breezy afternoon with some sunshine so at least it allowed the brakes to be dried off, worst thing is to leave them wet.

Just a shame my phone camera still insists on reds coming out pink!

Magnificent. I can't wait for the next project!

Some spare headlights to experiment with repairing the headlamp wipers?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175358645245?hash=item28d43093fd%3Ag%3Abb4AAOSwM6ti2Qvm&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAlMiSvtY8N6%2FdJd8ep1GffiZMmld%2FVP2A0ircZ5%2BffPwdN2dS5UezP48MlkiQgyJxcNjDhpx71zWxSTJa5koBF0Fxft6yvjIsANdYBGKSmosfPAASgF0M5ZasXDkU8sIfn5AnrPiJLcETmDLabXN94FvWTFL44hIIANw14mR1uZTzRrxcZBvx4Rq%2BqNVudvr5GOzM%2BOgTFaQSzCEWgQEpk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9T-_uO6YQ&LH_ItemCondition=3000

No connection to the seller.

Guy

Quite honestly although they might be able to be restored, I had them for about 3 years, and they were a waste of time.
The later high pressure nozzle washers were vast improvement.
Brian
8227 8)

The headlamp wipers were a bit of a joke mine used to end up getting stuck above the headlight.
Clarkey

The problems with the headlamp wipers are that the wiper arms have too little purchase on the shaft out of the gearbox and the seal on that shaft lets water past so the gearbox fills with water and the gears rust into a solid lump. I've always thought any permanent fix would require remaking the gears out of a material that doesn't corrode, providing a drain for the gearbox and attaching the wiper arms more securely. That said, I do prefer the look of headlights with wipers.

If anyone wants to experiment I can supply parts to play with.

Sneaky preview... Haven't seen them in the flesh yet myself, collecting them tomorrow evening after work.
More pics and details then..

 Collected my refurbished seats tonight for the Dedra, over a year since I took them in but worth the wait I say!
Very 1980s feel to the centre pattern, which is very near to the OE material that was one them, some for sale last year confirmed that they were indeed originally not fully alcantara so must have been a rare choice. The centre material was listed as a FIAT material so not beyond the realms of possibility that it is a straight match..

The flash makes them look a bit blue but it's a grey background. All the material is new, plain alcantara on the side panels, perforated on the bolster sections and of  course the centre pieces.

The pattern is a thin yellow stripe forming a grid with a thicker blue then red line, left to right. Graham the trimmer took great care to line all seats the same, yellow line equidistant from the sides and the red/blue lines in the same order and following from the base to seat backs.
Double stitching either side of the thicker lines.

The headrests were a pita to do he said! They come apart down the centre and they needed stitching together from many small pieces, they look better than new now, all 4 of them!

Expensive in the end, but I'm very happy with the results. Everything was redone, arm rests too.
OK I could have had them done in leather for less money, but I'm not a big fan of leather. Either too hot or too cold, rarely are they nice to sit on!
My own slice of the 80s, can't wait to fit them and try them out.

They look superb, fantastic work and I bet they'll look even better once they're bolted in place. The car must be almost done now?

Yes, very pleased with them. For those who hadn't seen the old ones, what a transformation!
Jobs left to do? Carpet needs a good clean, hopefully it'll come up enough to not need dying. A few electrical gremlins to sort, abs light on for instance. A few bits to tidy up then it'll be off for mot.
Now I have the seats back I'm sure a trip to the National rally in the summer will be on.

Your courage and patience rewarded with those seats.  They look gorgous.  Am now trying to remember what ours were...  It was a J reg dedra turbo, dark blue, grey alcantara but I can't remember if that was the whole seat or different middles.

They do look splendid, I'll be sure to get out and about in it this year now.

Both of my old Dedra had full width Alcantara, indeed nobody seems to know of anything but full width. The theory was that mine must have already been trimmed, but Graham of Ragbag trimmers who did them insists they were factory cloth as they were made so poorly! Once he showed me what he meant I had to agree, mass machined with little care as to where the stitching went, no self respecting trimmer would ever do that he said. I thought maybe an amateur had attempted it, but I liked the look so thought I'd try and re-create it.
Last year I came across a set for sale on ebay which looked a dead ringer so it seems indeed there was a half Alcantara option.

I should get to fit them soon, a few other jobs to do first.

Half cloth, half Alcantara is definitely a factory thing as this Lancia publicity photo shows. I have a feeling it may have been standard on later models.

Fantastic Frank, just goes to confirm what we/Garham the trimmer said.
My new central material may not be an exact copy of the original, was listed as a Fiat Punto material, couldn't find a thing anywhere in Europe for Lancia material. This material came from a supplier in Denmark, a real PITA to import with all the duties and delays.
I'll take it all up to the unit tomorrow and store it in the integrale until I solve the ABS issue and tidy up the carpet before they go in the car.

Although a lot of UK turbos had leather I think elsewhere cloth and alcatraz was in the majority.
If I remember correctly the piercing in the Alcantara was different to other Dedras as was the cloth material.
Looks magnificent,  and looking forward to seeing it sometime.
Brian

Aim is for the Sunday of the AGM if not before Brian, look forward to getting the car out.

I'll be there ;D
Brian
8227 8)

This is what I have in a brochure for Dedra Turbo, if you can make it out. Yours is  a pretty good approximation given the original is unobtainable..

Spot on Frank, that's the original for sure! Which brochure is that? I have one or two Dedra brochures, I'll kick myself if it's in one I already have and hadn't spotted it  ::)
Glad you agree, I thought it a near enough match to go ahead with. I do like the seats in full Alcantara as they were on my old turbo, but this just makes a nice contrast. Just wish it wasn't so damn expensive to get done!

You can probably relax because it's a European language paint and trim brochure for Dedra Turbo and Integrale. Options were full Alcantara, part Alcantara or full leather.

Bought this old factory tester from a guy in Italy recently, took a while to arrive with customs etc, hoping it will be successful at finding the ABS fault with the "how to" fault code procedure I also bought..  ::)

The club has a set of diagnostics in the tools, that I collected from near Oxford a number of years ago that had been used on Dedra.

Daft question as it wasn't under the back seat where it was supposed to be, but where is the ABS ECU? ???

Might not be much help but the Alfa 164 had a Bosch ABS system that came with it's own sub harness and was routed into the cabin where the ECU sat underneath the dashboard/centre tunnel. The ECU probably looks like this:

http://www.partshive.com/abs-computer-fiat-tipo-1-9-td-en.html?search=dedra

And I bet you've seen it and assumed it was the engine ECU - similar plugs. Then again, you've had the thing apart completely so I'm probably teaching my grandmother to suck eggs!
 
Follow the loom from the ABS pump box back into the car? It'll be hiding in plain sight somewhere!

Guy

No, that's a big help Guy.
I did Google it and found pictures like that, so knew the ones under the rear seat weren't the ones, sure they're to do with window control or central locking or something.
I did remove one from under their but that was a mobile phone one, quite an expensive install back then no doubt! Did cross my mind that I may have removed the ABS one by mistake but the lack of a leftover loom put that to rest.

I did wonder if it is somewhere behind the dash or on the transmission tunnel, Delta one used to be there I think. But maybe confused.... Happens a lot now!
There is a strong chance it's under there as that's the only place I've not been!
Thanks for the thought  8)

You're welcome Kev!

On another note I've just embarked on the restoration of a 1981 (1979 build date) Beta Coupe 2000 and it needs pretty much everything doing. Hopefully the bodywork will be straight forward as it looks reasonable from what I've found so far! The cremation/dip treatment/e coat process will tell me more in the coming months!

I once attempted to fit an ABS system from the Alfa 164 to the Stratos replica but a bit of faulty machining meant that was a failure. Well, it worked fine up to 4mph... Because of that experiment I'm fairly familiar with the Bosch ABS installation and wiring, it's something I'm contemplating adding to the Beta if I can sort out a sensor ring installation on the back end of the car.

Hope your search bears fruit soon!

Guy

Kevin, I sold my Dedra Manual with all the supplements include ABS, to Richard Carr, (Rikardo).
I'm sure he'll look up the  ABS section for you.
Brian
8227 8)

I do have a few hubs, drivehsafts etc for the beta coupe if needed
A HiFi rear spoiler too in the loft, in the hope that one day I might get a Beta Coupe.
A really nice set of seats too, really ought to sort through and sell stuff on for people who may need it.

K

Thanks Kev, there's a lot missing for the car I bought!

Next time I'm down in your neck of the woods I'll let you know!

Cheers
Guy

No problem, it'd be nice for some of the parts to be put to use than gathering dust!

I do have some used panels removed from a car years back, front wings and rear quarters. Not perfect panels but better than ones that are dust! Might have a used front panel too.
But I've heads, gearbox or two, hubs, calipers etc . More stuff than I know I've got really!

And a bunch of the HiFi grafic sets! 

Spolier is this one, grafics probably the same, red though from memory


https://car-from-uk.com/ebay/carphotos/full/ebay198691.jpg

Actually I think the Dedra manual I am working from may be one of Brian's. Frustratingly it has a diagnostic section for the Bosch ABS system but the schematic showing the layout of components is a repeat of the preceding Girling schematic showing the control unit under the back seat, item 197, and listed specifically as Girling. The table of units at the front of the section lists an item 204 "Antiskid electronic control unit" which appears on the Bosch wiring diagram but not on the schematic of location of units within the body.

Have you got the diagnostic routines for the Bosch system or would you like me to try and copy them for you?

Yes, I have the diagnostic routine for thew Bosch system, that was what suggested it should be under the back seat.
I can only assume it's somewhere behind the dash or on the tunnel, only so many places it can be!  ???

It's seriously unhelpful isn't it. I've posted a query on the Thema Dedra facebook page. I'm suffering similarly with a 1995 LHD Dedra 16v for which no English language manual seems to exist and various electrical components are different from 8v models.

Thanks Frank, very much appreciated.
I'd guess that the later Dedra would be the same as the Delta Mk3, but that probably doesn't help with an English language edition!

Can you use EPer to determine if a part is used on another model - say Fiat etc

Sorry I've not responded until now to this. Brian had to give me a nudge!

I have an Italian language Dedra integrale Workshop Manual that I purchased from Brian several years ago for my newly purchased at-the-time Dedra integrale (from Chris Hopkins).

There is a separate "Sezione 33" for "Freni Dispositivo antibloccaggio ruote" (ABS) as a supplement to the main "Sezione 33", but it also shows the "Centralina Elettronica" as located under the rear seat and then under a metal bracket/cover, with the longitudinal and transverse sensors alongside, although exactly where I'm not sure without removing the rear seat, the "context" of the photos isn't clear. However, I should point out that this was printed in "Febbraio 1991", so on a later car like my Dedra integrale from December 1993, it may no longer hold true. I haven't removed the rear seat to have a look, theres been no need. And, of course, there's an electronic on/off "Rear Diff Lock" to consider on my car and that may also have a bearing on the ABS ECU location (I think we all know what we're talking about now, don't we ;D).
I will gladly send images of the relevant pages from the Manual via email, the resolution will likely be better, let me know. Or I could try on here, but whether that will work successfully and legibly, I don't know!

I have schematic/wiring diagrams from the Dedra workshop manual, from the factory instruction on fault finding using the PR01 FIAT/Lancia tester which suggests the ECU being under the rear seat. It's not, I have no seats at all in at the moment so it'd be easy to spot!
There is a couple of smaller control units there, window and central locking control I think, but nothing with a big enough loom/connector or marked Bosch to be the ABS unit.
The engine ECU is in the passenger footwell against the bulkhead, Weber IAW is a familiar sight.

The only place I haven't had apart is the dashboard and the central console that sits between the front seats. It has to be somewhere!

Up at the unit this afternoon mostly working on the Flaminia engine, but managed to get a look at the Dedra.
There is no ECU under the rear seat, or anywhere near there.
I traced the wires back from each rear wheel speed sensor and they are merely taped together at the NS and carry on down the passenger side sill edge where they come up from the front passenger side footwell and disappear up the bulkhead behind the glovebox, near the heater fan motor.
I removed the glovebox but hoped that would reveal the bulkhead, but there's a large portion of dash still there. As there are no seats the centre console came out easy, so I know it's not under there now.
When I get another chance I'll take the centre piece where the radio and heater controls are, maybe it's under there!
If I keep following the wires it has to show up somewhere, just hope I don't have to take the dashboard out to find it!

eper has this schematic. As there is a shield #14 it could be in the engine bay??

14 is the access panel to 13,  and is at the base of the drivers back seat, which appears to wrong according to what has already been said.
All my Dedras had most of the electric control units under the drivers side under the back seat, one had another cover over a unit, 15 , which I think is the ABS unit., but this panel has to be removed to get at the unit.
the access panel 14 is to this unit without removing 15.
The main exception which was the 'Brains'behind the panel on passenger side footwell on Rhd cars.
Besides engine related relays ùnder the bonnet on the bulkhead.
I used to have a separate supplement that covered ABS, and as a H registered  car it should be in there, unless that is wrong as well.
My first Dedra was 1990 H registered, fitted with the 4 channel ABS.
Brian
8227

That's an interesting view Tim, Im inclined to think that if it is laid out accurately in that diagram then maybe it points towards the ecu being central insid ethe car, equidistant from the brake discs. Maybe the cover that is listed is to protect it inside the car, as in unde rone of the front seats? They are on risers after all.
Although I've said there are no seats in, and there aren't but I've never had the carpet fully out just peeled back the edge when doing the welding, maybe the loom branches off to the ecu and the pair of sensor wires I traced at the front footwell are from the front sensors coming back...that kind of makes sense.
As I want to take the carpet fully out for cleaning anyway then I say that's my next move rather than attacking the dashboard, it did make me think I was barking up the wrong tree with it being behind the dash, no logic in hiding it away.

With regard to it being in the engine bay, I also considered it may be hidden behind that relay panel besides the power steering bottle.


It's an odd one Brian isn't it, as you say all the literature points towards it being in the space under the back seat, but no. There are 3 other smaller units there but no Bosch ABS unit and the rear sensor wires just come in the car then go straight to the N/S inner sill before going forward.

Looking at the pic Tim has posted I'm inclined to think that maybe, just maybe it's inside the car somewhere. Carpet out is the next logical step, might try and get up this weekend for a look, bugging me that I can't find it!

Really, really appreciate the time and effort being spent on trying to help me guys, I'd be really struggling without the help.

Update on the Dedra.
The ABS issue has been solved, not by me, I had to concede defeat and get a professional electrician in. Sometimes you just have to accept these things are beyond you. No idea what the fault was so don't ask, purposely told him to just fix it however he could and not tell me what was wrong so I couldn't kick myself if it was a simple fix!

I had a slight oil leak from the gearbox to sort, had been leaving the odd spot of oil and no matter how long I hoped it would fix itself it refused to!
A strategic placing of fresh carboard revealed that the N/S driveshaft seal at the differential was leaking, at least a simple fix and not a cracked housing! This weekend I removed the driveshaft, shaft coupling from the gearbox and fitted a new seal. The old one was very worn, hardly gripped the ouput shaft at all. So at least that confirmed the source. Needed about 1/2L to get back to the MAX mark so had been leaking more than I thought.

Next weekend I will finally get to fit the retrimmed seats.
A few little jobs to attend to then ready for the MoT at last.

Looking good now that a trip to AGM Sunday is well and truly on the cards  8)

Kevin, was the ecu under the back seat as I suggested, if not ,where was it located ?
Brian
8227 8)

No ECU under the back seat Brian, all my literature also suggested it should be but nothing there for the ABS, rear sensor wires just run across the floor then forward down the passenger side floor edge. I also had a look up behind the dash as it was suggested it may be up there but even using my boroscope nothing could be found, just the wires going through the bulkhead. I can only assume, as also had been suggested that the ECU is part of the control unit/pump that sits in the engine bay. There certainly wasn't anything that the PR01 unit that I bought could be plugged into, so that was a wasted purchase!

I've been a bit distracted of late with the Flaminia and an Alfa GTV  so it's good to be back on the Dedra, quite excited that it's nearing completion. Looking forward to driving it at last.  8)

How strange, every Dedra including turbos had the ecu under the back seat and the eper and manuals show it there?
Looking to seeing it finished, are you bring the Dedra to the AGM?

Brian
8227 8)

It is very strange indeed! Everything I've got, or read including the Factory workshop manual says it should be under the back seat so I'm as baffled as anyone.

I fully intend on going to the AGM on the Sunday, no real reason why not now. I will see the car this Saturday so it will have had a week to produce any gearbox drips, very confident the cardboard under it will be dry.
A fresh MoT should be simple in a week or two then I plan on using it a lot so any niggles should be ironed out by the AGM.
I look forward to seeing a few guys down there, quite a rare car nowadays.  8)

I'm looking forward to seeing another nice nice Dedra again. There are so few about these days. At one time, we had two as daily drivers, owning 5 over a 12 year period, they were very underrated.

Brian
8227 8)

Hi Kev,

Great to see another one of your restorations almost completed  ;D.
I only caught up with this thread about a month ago as I usually look through the Delta section of the forum.
Fairplay for saving a such a rare & interesting Lancia, the quality of your work is impressive as always.
I used to own a Dedra 1.8 se over 10 years ago & was very happy with the build quality & the way it drove.
So what's the next project Kev or are you having a break?

Cheers Rob, I too had a Dedra 1.8 back in the day followed by a turbo version so when this one popped up local it was hard to refuse!

As for the next project I already have it lined up, have had for a few years actually. 1963 Flavia coupe that's sat under a pile of stuff. I'll be starting on it soon hopefully

Finally got the seats fitted, new set of floor mats in too.
A few more little tidy up jobs done so almost there.

Starting to look a bit more complete now.

Yes I can just make out a Flavia shape under all the detritus  :D.
Looking forward to seeing that one getting some much needed TLC.
The Dedra interior looks stunning Kev, you must be very happy with it  ;D.
Keep up the good work fella.

Should be off for mot a week on Saturday, a wash and shine needed for the pair

Wonderful restoration  of the Dedra
and the integrale Kevin,
Hope she sails through the MOT.
Brian
8227 8)

Yes hope the MOT on the Dedra goes well Kev, I'm sure it will.
Great photo of your two integrales, there can't be many Lancia collectors with a Delta & Dedra integrale!

Only the Delta is the integrale version Rob, the Dedra is a FWD turbo using the same integrale 8V based engine, they do make an integrale version of the Dedra but mine isn't one. As much as I'd love one though, like my Delta I can't do with LHD so happy with the pairing as is.

Test now booked for 9-30AM Saturday 13th, at least it's not Friday the 13th!
Delta booked in for the following Thursday so I'll have a nice choice of 4 door red turbo Lancia to chose from  8)

Thanks Brian, fingers crossed it does sail through.  :)

Only the Delta is the integrale version Rob, the Dedra is a FWD turbo using the same integrale 8V based engine, they do make an integrale version of the Dedra but mine isn't one. As much as I'd love one though, like my Delta I can't do with LHD so happy with the pairing as is.

Test now booked for 9-30AM Saturday 13th, at least it's not Friday the 13th!
Delta booked in for the following Thursday so I'll have a nice choice of 4 door red turbo Lancia to chose from  8)



Oops my mistake  ;D. Hope it all goes well this Saturday.

How did the Dedra's MOT go Kev?

MoT went without problem Rob, however the car has an on boost issue which obviously never reared its' head until out on the road!
Still trying to solve it in time for the AGM..

Finally!
The issue with the massive misfire when coming on boost has been found.
A few items had been tampered with in its' past life, the fuel pressure regulator was one such thing as the tamper proof seal had been removed.
At the time I didn't think a lot of it when putting things back together, but now everything is in place they look a right pain to swap out, I found my spare regulator from the integrale and planned to swap it to eliminate it as I went along trying things.
Assuming things is often your downfall, something we learn but often forget.
I'd assumed that the regulator was there to stem fuel flow (clue in the name) so the more you wound the adjuster screw out the more fuel it would allow to flow through.
On checking the routing today to see if the swap to my spare would be semi possible without a lot of swearing (it wouldn't) it dawned on me, a check on the spares engine that I handily had sat nearby confirmed it, the regulator is after the injectors in the fuel flow so it's job isto restrict the fuel from leaving the injectors, not to just allow fuel to it. So the fuel is pressurised direct from the pump to the injectors and the regulator has the task of holding that pressure and restricting the flow away from the system, I'd got it the wrong way in my head!
Screwing the regulators adjuster most of the way in resulted in an instant solution, proper performance on boost at last, problem found! The fuel flow was enough for moving the car around and in steady driving but once on boost there wasn't enough fuel to the injectors! Doh, simple when you think of it.
I will take it to my local guy to properly set the fuell pressure, or maybe I'll get myself a gauge for future use, then it should all be well.

The Sunday ride out to the AGM is firmly on now.
Car needs a good clean and polish as it's been over a year since it was sprayed plus I recently bought some brand new OE front seat belts as mine are very dirty then we'll be all set. On the seatbelt thing I got caught out with an AlfaSud I'd restored years ago. First trip out and the Mrs was less than impressed to have a diagonal grey stripe across her blouse after a ride out! ::) Best to not recreate that conversation  ;D 

Brought it home now to sort a few niggles, stopped for a quick snap at Belmont TV tower.

Well done.  Great relief. 

Am hoping with the interior the quality will be remembered long after the price is forgotten, and you pile some happy miles on over the summer.

The Dedra's looking good Kev  ;D. Fairplay for diagnosing that misfire when on boost. Not an easy one to trace. My Delta's recently started doing something very similar but my local mechanic seems to think it's the crank position sensor but I'm not sure.

I'm not out of the woods yet Rob, the extra boost has caused further issue...update to follow I hope...desperately hoping it'll be fixed in time for the AGM..

For what it's worth I did have a similar but milder issue with the integrale and it was the crank sensor so don't rule it out, cheap enough to replace too, so worth a try.

Fair enough Kev, I'll try to keep an open mind  ;).

I finally succumbed to getting the rear seat out of my grale version so that I could trace the rear-mounted electric aerial extension cable, as the cable itself fell apart in my hands when attempting to connect up the period Grundig radio/cassette I purchased some time ago ::). Jeez! I think the cable is OEM fitment as its coupled in with a loom running fore and aft that is so well "buried" in the car that any after-market car audio company would not have gone to so much trouble. A pity it broke really, as I will not be attempting such a job with the replacement cable, but I will make sure its well hidden!
So, having finally looked in much better detail into the rear passengers foot-well, it soon became obvious that something is under the rear seat, as why else would there be a removable cover? And then taking the rear seat out and the sound-deadening mat, there sits something that must be the ABS ECU, along with the 2 rear sensor connections (yellow housings).
Im glad I didnt get the runaround you had Kev!

Cover removed

Revealing this

(viewed from other side)

The Dedra has been trying my patience to say the least.
It seems there was more than one issue to solve, even once the fuel pressure regulator was sorted the car wasn't that happy. Ran ok, well ran very powerfully if truth be told but only with partial throttle. Anything approaching full throttle just caused huge problems.
So much so that it started pinking just before the water temp shot up. Blown head gasket.

The last few weeks I've had the head off, skimmed again and for good measure sent the injectors away for testing and cleaning. Report came back that one had a terrible spray pattern and none were delivering the correct flow.
All were salvageable with an ultrasonic clean and strip down, new internal filters etc or whatever they do and the engine went back together.

Drove better but still not right, I'd all but given up on getting the car running well enough to make the AGM Sunday. I've consulted the manuals checking all I could, swapping some parts from my integrale all to no great effect. Nothing seemed to work, the car really didn't like being on boost but was happy as Larry otherwise.

This week the alternator failed on my daily driver Alfa Giulietta so I had to use the integrale for commuting to work. It struck me that it felt slower than the Dedra.
Convinced that there is a boost control problem I resolved to have one last try and solving it this afternoon.
Could it be that the turbo wastegate had seized despite it being a refurbished unit? I fired up my little compressor and used a blowgun to put a trickle of compressed air to the wastegate actuator, no movement. It was then it struck me, I'd already checked in the workshop manual for the orientation of the pipework and even double checked against the integrale, but I'd still attached the pipe to the wrong connection! Fitting some tubing to the other outlet and just a squirt from the airline and the wastegate moved smoothly. Surely not, I'd attached the pipework wrong and the wastegate actuator wasn't getting any signal to bleed boost off!! The poor car must have been getting huge boost pressure, no wonder it didn't like it and went like a scalded cat when it did go...

I've done 30 or so miles in it this evening and it's perfect, drives smoothly with the right amount of boost and is perfectly happy to have full throttle. Just how I remembered my old Dedra and similar but less extreme higher up the revs than the integrale, just how it should be.

I'll use it a bit this week just to be sure but I can't see why I won't be at the AGM Sunday now, really happy to have found the problem even if it was self inflicted. But at least I know the problem has been found rather than guessing or hoping, as long as no lasting damage was done then it'll be fine.

Hi Kevin,
Hate to say it, but I told you so!

Brian
8227 :o
Looking forward to seeing all your hard work, next Sunday. ;D

Yep, that's where it's supposed to be but on my car it's empty where that ecu is.

All water under the bridge now.
Used the car for going to work today, really nice and smooth and a huge improvement on refinement over the Delta despite them being just a year apart.

Kevin just pleased you've sorted it ;D

"a huge improvement on refinement over the Delta"

Mrs L never liked the look of the Integrales, but when I drove one I realised I'd been spoilt by our Dedra Turbo.  Very fond memories of it.  Back end would bounce about from time to time and had to be careful not to cook the brakes but a lovely way to travel as a driver or passenger.

My daily driver Giulietta has given me grief the last couple of weeks, alternator failed so did a few preventative manitenance jobs at the same time whilst I had alternative transport.
First week I used the integrale for the daily commute to work.
This week I've used the Dedra, also as a shakedown for Sundays' ride out to the national day.
It's been an interesting back to back comparison.
It has also brought me to a decision.
I have long since coveted a coupe of a different Italian brand and to justify getting one I needed to sell off some stock so I didn't have a crazy amount of cars "on the books" paying tax/insurance etc. The Alfa GTV going was maybe enough to satisfy things but in reality I need to make the decision that having 2 Lancia turbo saloons is not sensible.
The back to back test this last fortnight has been a useful test even if not intended as such.

So the upshot is that I may well end up putting the Dedra up for sale.
I mention it on here as if anyone has followed this build will know what the car is, what has been done so may be interested.
I got a bit of stick for selling the Y10 without mentioning it first so no excuses this time!

I will be at the AGM national day on Sunday in the car if anyone wants a look, please feel free to come chat even if just curious.
Ideally I'd love to keep it, but I have to have a certain mount of common sense and the integrale is just so special to me in so many ways that I would regret its' sale far more.   

Glad you managed to fix the issue with wastegate actuator Kev, it just goes to show that even a competent mechanic like yourself can make mistakes  ;). Shame that you're selling your Dedra turbo after all your hard work but you can't keep them all & you obviously enjoy the restoration process  ;D. Whoever buys it will get themselves an excellent Dedra turbo to cherish.

I can't make my mind up on the Dedra Rob, I haven't advertised it anywhere yet as I haven't really had chance to use it that much.
If anyone comes along that's interested I'd sell but it's only on here that I've mentioned it. We'll see. Had my eye on a potential replacement that I've coveted for years, hard to justify keeping everything as I am starting the Flavia restoration any time now so maybe I'll just hold off until that's much further along rather than swapping cars around. Not like they're easy to find another if the urge came, this one was a chance find but they don't come up that often, talking myself into keeping it now!  ;D

I was at the AGM on the Sunday in my Dedra integrale but didnt see your turbo Kev. A great pity I missed it as I wouldve liked to have seen it in the flesh. Where did you park? (I was in the field parked behind Bob Hirschorn's Auto version.)

I unfortunately couldn't make it due tio injuring my back on the Friday, tried to recover by the Sunday for couldn't see me managing the 250+ mile round trip as every press of the clutch was agony.
I also wanted to have a good look at others, would have loved to have seen your integrale version  :(
And the Flavia coupes for comparison for my own car that's ready for starting work on, overall I was gutte to miss out.

I've had the Dedra at home for a few weeks now and occasionally take it out, it's now proved itself to be fully sorted after all the boost issues and with all the other attempted fixes like getting the injectors refurbished it runs perfectly and starts straight away even when stood for a week without being touched and settled into a nice smooth ideal. No hesitation when pulling away, no flat spots or lumpy running, really smooth.
I aim to take it to the Midlands Italian car day at Burghley House next month, is anyone else planning on going?

Date and time please Kevin.
Brian
8227 8)

Sunday 8th October  8)

https://aroc-uk.com/events/mitcar-midlands-italian-car-day/

Ticket booked for MITCAR at Burghley House so hopefully see a few guys there.  8)

A great drive down to Stamford today in the Dedra, such a nice car to be in.
I was greatly surprised at the positive reception it got, I hadn't really expected it to be recognised that well but on parking near a lovely yellow S3 Delta turbo and having a great chat about how he'd had a few and loved them that set the tone. I feel the time has come where the styling is being appreciated, not just by Lancia people as many visitors to the car seemed to have nice comments, the usual "haven't seen one for years" comments meaning to me, gone but not completely forgotten and now appreciated.
I had put a hastliy thought out "for sale" in the window with a "don't wan't to sell it" price in the window. Although a check for other Dedra turbos for sale for comparison led to me Europe as non found in the UK, the popular AutoScout24 website has a few for sale ranging from around E10,000 to near double that so maybe the £14,750 I put wasn't so out of the way?
Having said that though, and seeing how well recieved it was I am very tempted to hang onto it as it's really a better drive than the integrale in my eyes, so may keep both. At least until the Flavia is done!
A few minutes spent chatting to Brian (should have sat and had a good catch up really Brian, one for next time) and the length of time FAY has been with him which must surely have given him years and years of enjoyment then why not do that with Dedra, money from a sale would soon fritter away so why not reap the rewards as Brian has. 

Hi Kevin,
Great to see you yesterday, definitely a proper chat next time.
I've always believed the Dedra were underrated, having had 5 over the years, and the Dedra adviser for getting on 30 years, I think I can safely say I've had a bit of experience of them.
If I still had a need I'd be very tempted to have another, as I said yesterday hang onto your lovely turbo and reap the reward of all the effort dedication  and hard work you have put into.
Some may think it's sacrilege, but the Dedra turbo is a great cross country and
and usable everyday.
If we were off on a long distance trip abroad we usually took our series 3 Thema Auto as that was where it's strength lay, as a fast long distance cruisert it was at it's best, but cross country I'd always take a Dedra.
Besides the integrale would free up more funds for the Flavia!

Yes, I would hang on to your Dedra Kev as I think you'd regret selling it. You've made such a great job of restoring it, you really ought to reap the benefits  ;). When are you planning to start work on the Flavia?

I'm in no rush to sell it Rob, taking it for a ride up to The Motorist this Sunday near Leeds with my Lad Rob, nice 200 mile round trip to end the season on.

As for the Flavia, work has already started by Dan who is tackling the bulk of the welding.
I have nearly completed the engine strip down, a few little bits to do there.
I am going to paint the Flavia myself as one last hurrah before hanging up the gear, a workshop inside the unit will be made for the task so plenty of work to do.
I was sent a few snaps this week from Dan who has made a start on the Flavia, excited to follow progress on it myself!

Collected the Dedra from storage this afternoon in readiness for next Sundays' trip down to the National rally, still pains me to have nice cars like this being sat unused. It'll be worse when the Flavia nears completion!
Saturday I'll give it a good clean then hope to see a few of you guys down there.
I'd still entertain selling if anyone is interested, but equally it's a nice car to have so no big deal either way. If it was my one and only classic that would be pretty neat as it fits so many situations well, comfy and decently quick, modern enough yet old enough for classic shows so does it all.
The integrale I did so much work on and covetted one for so long it'd be very hard to let go.
I also now have a Maserati 3200 which is great and of course fablous to look at and drive, plus the Mrs likes it so there's a bonus.
As I mentioned my Flavia coupe will also be done in a year or two so that will take care of an older classic.
But that all adds up to an indecent amount of cars in reality, plus of course a daily driver so the insurance and tax adds up. The worst bit though is that they all need using, things deteriorate when not used. 
So that all addsup to the logical conclusion that one needs to go.
If applying logic.

I see it now at Mathewsons next month, Lot 582. The guys know their Brits quite well generally but they can struggle with Italians. In the video Paul thinks it's a Thema, until he pans around to the rear and sees the badge! Excellent description of the work that's been done to bring it up to what appears an impressive standard.

Yes, we took it up there last Saturday which was a nice but quite sad last 100 mile trip in it.
I have had to make the hard choice to sell one car and the Dedra was the one to fall, my Delta integrale had even more work to get roadworthy and was a childhood dream to own so I absolutely can't bring myself to sell that and this Summer I bought a Maserati 3200GT which again was a car I'd admired since they were new but never thought I'd own and it is a fantastic thing, plus the Flavia coupe is finally looking like it will make it back on the road so the Dedra ended up being surplus to requirements despite my Wife saying it is by far the nicest one to ride in, the seats are very comfortable I must say!

The Dedra has been takn to sell, not just try and get a high price so it has a very low reserve of approximately half what the seat retrim cost me! So it will sell I'm sure even at the low guide price, so someone will get a fairly well fully sorted car in the desirable turbo version too.

I thought he rather down played just how much work it has had done to it. If I had any space inside to store it I'd be in there bidding.

Someone got a bargain anyway  :o :o

Sold for double estimate...

But perhaps half what a really good one in Europe might have made. I notice it was only 10% more than a similarly aged, MOT failed, Audi Quatro. It's the old "supply and demand" equation with the emphasis very much on the "demand" side. Someone got a fabulous car for a very reasonable price.

Worth every penny, but that seems a good price for a late Lancia at Matthewsons. I did worry that it would only fetch half that, which would have been tantamount to theft.......

What did it go for please?

Hammer down at £6,800 Brian.
Overall it's about the figure I hoped for, between 5 and 6k I thought ought to be achievable, getting so near to 7k was a good result for an auction.
I had the car advertised in a few places with very, very little interest if I'm being honest, 2 or 3 viewings over 3 months or so with not one offer shows that although it is a great car, as Derek pointed out, the potential queue of buyers just isn't there unlike for anything Ford or German, comes down to fashion and the percieved desirability of certain cars. Lets face it, there's no way the frankly agricultural Mk2 Escort should be a £50k car but there's a huge rose tinted nostalgia for them, so the price shoots up. There's not a single thing they do better than the Dedra, aside from maybe a rear wheel slide out f a roundabout yet they command crazy prices. I remember getting them for a few hundred quid as nobody wanted them, should have filled a barn up!
As for the service provided and result by Mathewsons I can't fault them. They can only promote the car so much but if the buyers aren't there then they can't perform miracles. There's no logic to say that any potential buyers from other auctions weren't aware of the cars sale, they promote the cars well on the website with 40+ of there own pictures, a walk round video that is also available via youtube, even a sale preview on youtube where the Dedra was touted as a car to beadmired according to a friend who follows there social media stuff.
The Y10 they sold for me likewise achieved a decent result, well promoted and all done in a friendly simple format, very much the business is done in the traditional family ways where good service is valued. I have sold other cars via other classic car auctions and haven't felt that way, more business like and formal rather than how they are at Mathewsons, a serious business but run in a friendly manner.

I agree that someone (anyone on here?) has got a bargain in as much as to "build" that car you just couldn't do for that figure. Roughly speaking the car cost £2k to buy, paint was £2.5k, interior an eye watering £4k+!, wheels and tyres another grand, turbo rebuild and exhaust another £500 or so, engine rebuild parts like rings/shells/gaskets/clutch/belts etc was another £1k or so, then you figure parts out like the new intercooler/water radiator/suspension parts/powder coating/brake parts etc that easily totalled another £1,500+  so there's £11,500 off the top of my head which means there is most likely another grand or two in parts I've forgotten about! New windscreen for example, another £200 or so.
You'll notice too there's not a penny of labour as I did it all myself, i you had to pay for it to be done then it would be a wildy different story!

So yes in a way it has been purchased well for about half what I have spent on it, but then it's now in well enough condition so it will go on for many a year to come, so there's satisfaction that another one has been saved.

Such a shame Kevin, I wish I'd still been in the market.
However as you said, the demand isn't there these days.
But if you got  near to what you were prepared to let it go for!
I wonder who the lucky new owner is?
Brian
8227 8)

I'm glad you have had good service at Matthewsons Kevin, I wasn't having a go at them, but a number of Lancias sold there have achieved only mediocre prices. This is I think, and as you point out, down to their audience, who are generally more focused on British cars.

From observing the tv series it would seem anything with the blue oval on is worth serious amounts of money even something basic like a 1.3 MK2 Escort. I guess until you actually drove said Escort you would feel like you had got a good deal.
Clarkey

Another point is that the current market is down at least 30% if not more, even higher up the scale which was once seen as bullet proof. Also most of B&C episodes are pre or during covid when prices were at their highest, even the blue circle which only commands high values in the UK, have lost their shine, with only the very rarest and best getting decent money.