Lancia Motor Club

I finally drove my Fulvia on the road yesterday after owning it for just under 5 years. It seemed to run OK apart from a sticking clutch which meant I didn't try going far. As sort of expected after a few years going nowhere (it had been unused for 25 years before I got it but did move OK without the clutch sticking when I purchased it) the clutch was stuck, it released with the usual trick of using the starter motor with the car in gear and the brake on. However, it keeps sticking to the point that gearchanges are almost impossible as it isn't releasing.

What I didn't try doing was slipping it a lot to wear/clean up the surfaces but I'm thinking that maybe I should have done. But before I do that I wondered if anyone has any other thoughts. When it does work the bite point is in a good position but it is 'grabby'. I'm hoping not to have to dismantle things and/or replace the clutch if I can avoid it.

You may try to adjust the clutch pedal freeplay (2.5 cm) by turning the wing nut at the end of the clutch cable near the coil. Hpwever, it is likely your car will need a new clutch especially if you plan to do long trips, Andrea

Andy I am no Fulvia expert but I have come across this situation many times before with either the friction plate sticking on the splines and therefore not releasing, or the 1st motion shaft ( gearbox input shaft) seized in the crankshaft spigot bush/bearing and therefore constantly spinning and making gear changes very difficult. You may have to pull the transmission to investigate.
Good Luck
Jaydub.

So far it does feel like the clutch plate is grabbing on the surface of the flywheel, although I also wonder if there is a little rust on the splines that are restricting movement. It will free off and doesn't feel too bad when it works, just that it sticks again very readily which I haven't come across before.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try being a bit harsh with it next time I move the car and see if I can get it any better. I may alter the adjustment and see if it changes anything. I've got another car I need to sort so it might be a couple of weeks before I'm back to the Fulvia.

I have have had this on a Fulvia and was a result of dry/rusty splines. My experience is it will free with use but will stick next winter..... liveable with perhaps but if the gearbox has the opportunity to come out it is easily dealt with, lube the gearbox input shaft and replace the friction disc.

Thanks Tim. I'll see if it gets any better with some more use, I've only driven around the estate where I live so far - partly because of the difficulty of changing gear. I've left it with a piece of wood holding the clutch down but will try regular pumping on the pedal to see if that makes a difference. If not I'll get the clutch chnaged.

Andy, just seen your 2 videos on YouTube- sounds good to me. Must be great to have it going ready for summer.

Thanks Chris, it is great to finally have it moving. Hope you and your car are doing well.

I've still only driven about 10 miles but have pumped the clutch up and down many times, and left it held down. I've also used the adjuster to tighten the cable just so that it moves further when I press the pedal. Still getting some sticking so I think pulling the gearbox is probably the best idea - any indication as to how long it would take if done at a garage with a 2 post lift? Or is it reasonably possible at home with good axle stands? I'll get a new clutch kit too as it is one of those things that always seems worth fitting if it is apart.

You need tall axle stands to get the c600 mm off the ground, and a transmission cradle to fit a large trolley jack.

I f the gear box is coming out it is a good time to give this 50year old bit of machinery some maintenance. Drive shaft oil seals, quill shaft roller bearing and oil seals (2 small ones), and then decide if any of the sychro cones need changing.

I release all the connections, ( 6 bolts holding the underframe to the "chassis" and various cables and pipes) put a thick plank across the bonnet opening and use it to lift the car off the engine/transmission unit with my ceiling mounted electric winch.    Very simple and much safer than wobbling around on axle stands!   You can even just wheel the whole lot forward if you have enough lift, otherwise rest the unit on a flat trolley.   You can then work on the engine, gearbox, clutch etc in perfect comfort.

As an update to this I took my car to the local garage to have a replacement clutch fitted today, they have just called me and said the spigot bearing behind the flywheel is seized so it seems JayDub was right - does anyone know the bearing part number or dimensions for an S2 so I can hopefully get one locally? Also they have said the rear main seal is weeping a little so worth replacing - if anyone can help with the part number for that too it would be really helpful.

On S2 cars there were two types of bearing, thus you will have to take the old one to a bearing supplier and match it with a new one, Andrea

Any bearing shop can match the seal and pilot bearing.... I think the rear seal  is 80x100x10mm TCI / R23 Double Lip Viton - but please check

Thanks for the replies, based on these and some things I found online from a couple of the Fulvia parts suppliers I bought a bearing and seal locally this morning and have dropped them off with the garage. Unfortunately due to other things booked in today they probably won't get chance to work on it until next week so no absolute confirmation I bought the right things - they didn't want to remove them yesterday without my agreement and I was a bit late getting back to them to sort it before they finished. If I've got the right parts I'll post the part numbers here to hopefully help others in future.

My clutch replacement was successful and the spigot bearing and seal were the correct sizes so details are:
Bearing - 6200 2RS C3 ball bearing - the C3 is important because it denotes larger internal clearance for higher temperature applications
Seal - 80mm x 100mm x 10mm R23

Interestingly, as well as the spigot bearing being sealed the garage reported that the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel when they took it off. I was badly stuck when I finally got the engine running but never really sorted itself despite driving it 800 miles before it went to the garage. The car is massively better to drive now!

Andy I cannot believe the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel. If that was true, the gearbox input shaft would be constantly spinning and you would not get it into gear because the shaft would not slow enough to allow the synchro rings/gears to align and mesh.??????

It was easy to free off. What was strange was that if I'd left the car for some time it worked fine when I put it into gear initially, but if I only left it for a short while it would stick - almost like the heat stuck it. All resolved now.