Lancia Motor Club

Hi guys

I'm in the process of replacing the heater control valve in the footwell. The old one was well and truly blocked and seized.

I've removed the old valve but have re-fitted it temporarily (after clearing it) so I can attach a pipe to the heater radiator whilst I flush it.

The problem I have is that whilst the 2 M10 nuts securing the valve undid OK, one of them is now turning what I assume to be a bolt as I try to tighten it.

Questions:

Does anybody know if it actually is a bolt or is it a stud (which might have come adrift somehow)?
Is it possible to access the other side of the fitting without dismantling part of the interior so I can grip it whilst I tighten the M10 nut?

I have opened the plastic flap right by it but can't see or feel any sign of the "bolt" even with an endoscope inspection camera. it looks a bit of a mystery!

Thanks
Richard

How about gripping the exposed thread? Richard

I think it is part of the matrix end tank, not good news as it will probably leak. If you remove the valve and clean the area at the base of the stud you might be able to secure it with JB weld or superglue and baking powder, if not it will be a matrix out and solder job, good luck.

Sean

Thanks Sean, I have a horrible feeling that you're right. The car spent all its life in the south of Italy and the heater was probably never used.

I guess I can manage without the heater as the car won't be used much, if at all, in the winter. I've just by-passed it for the time being anyway.

Is the heater matrix extractable relatively easily?

Sorry but it's very difficult to do that and I fear that if I can't see the other end of the "bolt" or whatever it is might be soldered or brazed into the matrix (which I can't see) and therefore broken, causing a leak.

Heater removal is a long and fiddly job as so much has to be removed to gain access and even then getting the heater box out is like a chinese puzzle. I have done this twice and it took about a day each time.

Sean

There is a new old stock heater assembly of ebay.it. Not cheap though when importing.

Having said and done all that, Fulvia heaters are pretty useless at the best of times.   You would be better off with a blanket.

Blankets are cheaper than reconditoned heaters. However, in my experience, S1 Fulvia heaters are not very efficient but adequate if the coolant temp is just over 70 degrees: this is not straighforward in winter as the fan is always on and the car really needs a rubber muffler on the front grille. S2 heaters are very efficient and, in fact, I normally have to turn down the heater output even when outside is very cold. The solution again is to use the grille protection and, very importantly, to replace the blue coolant diluted with distilled water every 2 years with backflushing of the system. I have never replaced or refurbished engine rad and healter on anyone of my Fulvias in more than 30 y ownership. Andrea

I agree. 9  times out 10 a poor heater is down to poor maintenance leading to a partially or fully blocked heater core. If  not blocked they are more than  adequate. Tim

Despite 'Fays' heater radiator being recored twice, the heater box has been removed and everything sealed but I've never been able to coax more than a slight trickle of heat out of it, and certainly not worth the effort, for years now I've driven in gloves, scarf, hat and a big coat in the winter.
Brian
8227 8)

What is the coolant temperature in winter? If this is low, no heater will work fine, Andrea

Would appreciate if anyone can tell me at least how to get started on removing the heater rad on my s3. I just like things to work as they’re meant to.

OK here goes, drain coolant, remove hoses and valve, remove centre console and side panels various 8mm nuts some well hidden, leave fuse box and wiring connected as this can be lifted clear later on.  remove gearbox console by selecting 3rd and wiggling free, disconnect operating cables from heater box and move clear.  Remove heater vent panel with switches, remove lower dashboard panel (may have to remove dashboard fascia panel as well).
From engine bay remove battery and heater inlet duct, disconnect heater motor wires and undo four 10mm nuts holding heater box to bulkhead.
From inside car pull heater forward and down to clear bulkhead and then try to hold fusebox wiring clear and twist heater towards passenger footwell, this is tricky but there is a posistion were it will come out.
Once removed take off the fan and release the spring clips holding the box halves together to get to the matrix.

Sean

Wow, I must have another look at mine before winter then.

Thank you Sean that’s really very helpful. I’ll try to do it in the winter if I have the time and confidence. Maybe a bit more global warming might remove the need🥵

I have the same dilemma with the heater not working. Stan’s Fulvia spent most of its life in Italy then a brief spell here in the U.K. before going to France. As I use the car throughout the year I would appreciate some warmth. I am looking at the electric heater from Demon Tweeks as put into a lot of competition cars appreciate not original but from the reviews will solve the issue. Anyone else gone this route?
With work involved to restore and repair the original heater this seems like a logical solution.

I guess it will rather depend on the output of your alternator. Mine only gives about 28 A. That said i’ve replaced all the original lights with LEDs but have 55W QHs in my auxiliary driving lamps. Anyway, the upshot is I’ve probably got 12 A or so spare with all the lights blazing. But all that can give is 144 W which is not going to do a lot!
With your lights which look to pre-date LEDs (I assume it’s ready for 2 auxiliary lamps) you’ve probably got an alternator with a higher output which could enable you to obtain a bit more heat, especially if you did put in LEDs for the main lights.

Thanks much appreciated on the advice. I have some Cibie Super Oscars going on soon that will be wired via a relay.
Alternator is strong charging well. When collected last September the car had not run since 2019. It was started with a jump pack and now holds a strong charge. The battery was fitted 2019 so had little use.

I would definitely fit LEDs to as much as you can.

My indicators were a bit dim so I replaced the f&r ones which are now so much brighter and safer. I also replaced the brake lights, again much safer. I got them from Classic Car LEDs. They look a bit big to fit but they fit fine with no bodging required. You would need to replace the blinking unit as the current drawn by LEDs won’t work it. What you actually get is an electronic timer which is a very easy to fit direct replacement. I also fitted LEDs to the dashboard as my instruments were nigh impossible to read at night.

As for the standard headlights you need to source them carefully. There’s lots of rubbish ones on eBay. The ones that Pieces Fulvia have are great, but you may be able to source them in the U.K. You should be able to fit H1 LEDs to the Oscars. I have very slim 7 inch period Cibies (Iode 45) and had to use blue looking 55w H2 bulbs as there are no suitable LEDs. When combined with the LED headlights the lighting is superb. The alternator doesn’t have to work hard. Had I wanted the equivalent light output with conventional light bulbs there’s no way the electrics would have coped. PM me if you want to save me boring others to death!

Am I right in thinking the Fulvia has 2 reversing lights?

If you replace the bulb holder with a BAY 15d type like this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385176259925?hash=item59ae4b4d55:g:sPcAAOSwrdFjTM1m&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4IEFxoPakgflfmF%2FX2WScmEYbzpe42rkLA4xNZxx2D8CH26SywMvebOUkS4lzCG5awFg5SIs3VpZf9PBvoQWSKZ2cBXLwM4cI8Cf7DId%2B0sJwo8PjJwy%2FItrnD2Xiq1arW7X%2B0aduCLdCTnzdb3HZuSn6NPWVIjb0fZd%2BHetqbPBZaZmc268V3Aq7jfQQGN7xOT418t59se9fehmTa3ZwumVuxCZJwY3AB%2B1ZBwdlfGmBCe5HvQDcoihhrU7qh%2FvJplEHYWjiA9QCBjqx4iYJmVnA4TUa%2FFMeC8XjOYrGZ8i%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7jqmPC2YQ

other sellers available

you can then fit a pair of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182785883618

and with a power supply, a switch and a cable to the back of the car you'll have twin foglights at the back and a standard look!

Guy

Indeed it does have reversing lights. I’m afraid though that I couldn’t resist fitting a new very old stock period Carello foglight as it gives an excellent light and looks the part with its white Carello logo cover! It’s linked to the standard reversing light wiring.

I have a rather dark driveway so that’s my excuse anyway!