Lancia Motor Club

Hi. I've not got a handbook yet so don't know the answer to a simple question.

Should the electrics be live without the key in the ignition?

My heater fan, wipers and radio all work with the key out......think I know the answer to the question!

The new battery was flat when the car was delivered....I've got a Discarnect so that's out for now.

Thanks very much.

No.  From memory, i click for radio etc, two clicks for ignition.

I've now got a wiring diagram. I'm new to this diagram and car wiring in general but it seems to me that the following is true, bear with me....

With the key out:
Fuse 7 should be permanently live.
Brown from fuse 7 to the ignition switch is also permanently live.
Red from the ignition switch to the starter should be dead.
Black from the ignition switch feeds fuse 8. It also feeds a lights relay. After the fuse it feeds the heater fan, wipers, stop lights, screen washer, etc. Seems to me that with the key out this lot should be dead, but is live.
Blue/ black from the ignition switch feeds fuse 9. After the fuse this feeds the cigarette lighter, it's light, a lights solenoid, heated rear window switch, coil. So with the key out this should also be dead.

The original problem is that the battery goes flat, and that the heater fan and wipers are live with the key out.

So I need to put a meter on the ignition switch wiring to see what's live that shouldn't be and also look at the fuse box......got to find it first!

Hope I haven't lost you here, helps me to think it through by writing it down. If I've missed anything, please say.

To answer my own question, with the key out, fuse 7 is live, 8 is live (wipers, heater fan etc), 9 is dead.

I think the ignition switch is faulty. Have I missed anything?

I've also noticed from the diagram that it's possible to have the lights on with the key out of the ignition, is this correct?

Thanks!

Yes, lights stay on with key out.

Brian
8227

So do the wipers and heater fan stay live with the key out on your car? This what I have but don't know if this is correct.

Thanks

Yes as you have seen on the wiring diagram.

Thanks Tim. The diagram shows it but it doesn't explain what the ignition switch is supposed to do.

I appreciate your reply.

Seem odd to me that the fuse 8 permanent feed comes through the ignition switch when there is a permanent supply at fuse 7 right next to it. Me not knowing what the ignition switch is supposed to be doing is the problem.

Thanks again. Seems I do not need a new ignition switch.

I think the feed from fuse 8 to the ignition switch is what the ign switch switches so to speak. The ignition switch will power the coil, (radio?) and starter solenoid of course.

With the key removed Fuse 8 receives power via the Black wire to provide a feed for the lights, wipers/washers, heater fan , radio etc as you mentioned in your post.

Thanks John. So it seems my ignition switch is doing what it is supposed to do and the flat battery must come from having left something on. Guess I'm used to modern cars that go dead when the key is out.

I checked between the negative battery cable (disconnected) and the negative battery post and found no discernable current so it seems I don't have a drain but must have left something on, lights or fan would be my guess.

The fan switch is very loose and the fan can't be heard in position one. Also I still haven't figured out how the lights work - switch on the stalk, moves down and back. Need to get out there in the dark and have a play.

You need to search in the previous fulvia posts, as the lights operation on series 1 has been discussed extensively
within the last 6 months? its a combination of the light switch pulling on, then twisting to the right, and the use of indicator/ headlamp stalk in conjunction. .
Brian
8227 8)

It is helpful to bear in mind that in the Fulvia switches (and circuits) are normally switched on by putting the circuit to ground rather than activating the positive input. A frequent cause of flat battery are the door red lights that due to a dodgy switch(es) do not switch off with the door closed. Andrea

Any electrical experts out there?

Continuing this thread, I've resolved a couple of small electrical issues with help from forum members, which I'm grateful for.

Again I've got a flat battery and whilst I suspect the battery maybe faulty, it was new just before the car was delivered to me according to the dealer.....though I've just noticed in a picture taken in Italy, before the replacement, that the battery is exactly the same model, I'm wondering if it was actually replaced.

I had the multi-meter out yesterday set it to amps dc, probes between the neg lead and the battery neg post and got a reading of 0.060, 60 milli amps. When I pulled out fuse 7 or removed the pink and red connector just below that fuse, the reading drops to 0.002 milli amps. That wire goes to the clock and the door lights. The door lights appear to work as they should. I can't remove the clock wire (though I can see it if i stand on my head) but would imagine that if it was disconnected the reading would drop to 0.002. Does anyone know what the current draw of the clock should be? Is 0.060 milli amps enough to kill a battery quickly?

As an aside, the clock does work, but can't be adjusted so will have to come out at some time to be looked at. Does the dash top need to come off for this?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.

I don't know how much current the clock uses, however to remove the clock is necessary to remove the dashboard front (fixed by the 2 knurled ring nuts at the odometer and instrument lights) and a small nut inside the glovebox. If you are lucky and take great care (and perhaps lower a bit the steering column after undoing the plastic surrounds), with a thin flat chisel going around the plastic front panel, you can remove it to access the clock that is fixed by a bracket to be reached via the glovebox.
Treat the clock carefully as replacements are rare and very expensive. Andrea

  Fuse 7 also powers Horn relay, Radiator Fan relay, Handbrake warning light ( Red wire) which follows on from the clock.  60 milliamps would not flatten a battery for some days. A glove box light 0.25 amp takes a couple of days. I would get your battery checked and check the alternator is actually putting a full charge into it when running. Connect your volt meter across the battery, run the engine and check voltage rises with the headlights on when revs are raised. You need it to maintain 12v+ at minimum.

I changed the battery this afternoon. The engine jumped into life unlike I've seen before. It shows 14+ volts when above idle. I'll monitor it over the coming weeks.