Lancia Motor Club

Hi once more, I have went this far and would not like to spoil the job, so I would like to renew the existing pump.
 The previous owner told me the pump was a bit suspect, so I would like to renew it just in case.
can anyone reccommend a suitable pump?
Thank You.
Bill.

Personally, despite them being rather difficult to source nowadays, I'd still fit a mechanical pump to keep within the spirit of the car's age.

If going electric, Facet make a range of suitable pumps.  The "solid state" works well enough on my son's Mini (we had to use an electric poump because the Cooper exhaust manifold fouled the original one) you might need a size up from the Mini one.  Fit it near the fuel tank so it "pushes" the fuel to the carburettors; that stops air-locks causing a problem.

Also try to make some provision for the pump to stop when the engine stops.  On other cars that's usually achieved using an oil pressure switch but that's not something which is fitted to a Fulvia engine.  Does anyone know how to do this?

Neil

Hi Neil, I have seen a fuel pump on ebay item 120423153104 its pressure is 3.0 4.0 with a flow rate of 1.6 lt./min do you think this would work. Also would I have to block off the return pipe to the tank?
Thank You.
Bill.

The fuel pump characteristics needed are in the technical data book (do you have a copy?). You should also fit a pressure regulator and filter, if you don't already have one fitted and set it up with a pressure gauge. I would not block off the return (but make sure you clean out the small filters in it and rum a small drill through the return delivery pipe on the carb.

I've been using a Facet pump and Filter king regulator, for about 4 years now ,with no problems, mines mounted in the engine bay, and pulls fuel, i have never had a problem with it working like this. The power for the pump comes from the switch side of the coil, so cuts off when igition  is switched off. Hope that helps.

Facet Solid State Pumps here:   http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=2&pgCode=015&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Fuel+Pumps&agCode=0110&agName=Facet+Fuel+Pumps


I have 2 fitted to the Dilambda hidden away under the floor at the back next to the tank.
Fit and forget - I like that!

Fuel cut off switches here:  http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0537&agName=Oil+Pressure+Switches

have the added advantage of stopping the engine if the oil pressure disappears. Now that would have been useful on the Dilambda!

Robin.

We have had some of this before in June 2009 in posts under ‘Starting Problems’ – see below:

Another good source for fuel pumps and all the fittings is Think Automotive based in Isleworth, west London. They also do online sales – see:

http://www.thinkauto.com/index.html

The Facet pump I fitted (near the engine under the bonnet) is a FSS1, which cost £23.25 (trade price!) in 2005. The mounting kit coast an extra £5.96.

I have also used them as a source of braided brake hoses and fittings.

Colin

I have 2 facet solid state pumps fitted under the bonnet on 2 series 2 fulvias (with return pipe) to prime the carbs after anything more than a few days (indeed I always prime now by habit) and they pull fuel no problem also through an inline filter. I have a facet redtop and and filter king regulator set to 1.5bar (? cant remember) fitted under the bonnet also pulling fuel on my 1600HF, but I did some road trials and was amazed to see how low the car would run at high speed at low pressures. I did however bring the pressure up to the spec level which i cant remeber! This is wired like the others to the ignition circuit but unlike the first two which have momentary priming switches the HF has a toggle switch to cut it out manually (necessary if working on the ignition circuits and you want the pump off).

I am interested the the oil pressure cut out. It must act like a "flip flop" or else the pump would not come on when the engine was started (no oil pressure!).

Tim

If you wire the pump to the oil pressure cut-out you can also wire it to the starter feed so that you get fuel when cranking.  Once it's cranked a bit, there's enough oil pressure to keep it going.  Modern cars have an inertia switch which is normally engaged.  If the car is in an accident, the ball in that switch comes away from its magnet and cuts power to the fuel pump.

On my wife's MG Maestro (1600 with twin Weber DCNF down-draughts) I wired the pump to the choke warning light so that the engine could be primed when the choke lever was pulled out.  No choke light on a Fulvia though :-)

Neil

Series 1 Fulvia's have a choke warning light ;D

Anyone have an idea how long it would take for an electric pump mounted by the tank would take to fill an empty filter king fuel bowl ? reason for asking is that originally when my priming pump was fitted the pump could be heard clicking away and the warning light in the switch would flicker, after a few seconds the pump would stop clicking, the light would no longer flicker, I would then turn the switch off and "Fay" would start first time.

Just lately the pump seems to click for ever and a day and the warning light keeps on flickering, so eventually I turn it off and attempt to start the engine, which she normally does with no problems.

Sunday I went to start her as usual and as above the pump didn't stop. when I tried to start her she was very reluctant but eventually started,  only firing on 3, on taking the plugs out No.1 was oily and sooted up, 2,3,& 4 were heavily sooted, after cleaning and drying she started OK and was running fine.

As I could see a lot of fuel residue in the glass bowl of the filter king, I took the bowl off and cleaned it, I then turned the electric pump on and the fuel was only dribbling into the bowl, starting the engine didn't seem to improve matters that much, although she runs fine?

Brian
8227 8)

should only take about 10 secs from empty with that flow rate. It sounds like you have a blockage on the tank side of the pump (or the pump is blocked) or a pipe is crushed.

If you have a return pipe on your car then the pump would continue running, albeit slowly.

There are choke warning lights on series 2/3 fulvias as well! But as the choke is only used in v cold weather (ie two prods of the throttle and crank the engine normally starts the car), then this is not a good solution.

Tim

Thanks Neil,
I don't have a return pipe but it will still drip slowly, I'll check out the fuel pump for any sign of a blockage.

Brian
8227 8)

Hi,
I've just ordered a Facet posiflow pump & filter king regulated fuel filter which I intend to plumb into the engine bay of my S3.

Could I ask which is the switch side of the coil refered to in reply 4 and as I intend to bypass the mechanical pump, what should I do with this, leave it place for emergency use or remove it?

many thanks

The switch side of the coil is, the opposite  connnection where the wire from the distributor goes to the coil, or in other words the wire that goes into the wiring loom

An electric fuel pump might be delivering too much fuel unless careful adjustement is made with the fuel pressure regulator. A value of  3-4 psi seems to be OK.
Andrea

I fitted a Facet pump to my 1600 HF (it has Dellortos) because of the absence of a manual priming facility.  When starting the car after a couple of weeks standing it took a lot of grinding away on the starter to get fuel up to the carbs.  My pump sits in the area behind the righthand headlamps, quite low down, and pumps through the mechanical pump.  It is operated by a switch hidden underneath the dash near the choke lever and I use it only for starts after a period of inactivity.  About 5 seconds or so only is enough to recharge the float chambers and the sound of the pump gives an indication of progress. No pressure regulator is fitted, the recirculating line is retained.  It works well.  As a bonus I suppose that if the mechanical pump developed a fault it would serve as a get-you-home, or longer, but I am not aware that the mechanical pump is unreliable.