Lancia Motor Club

A couple of questions regarding brakes if I may...

1) After driving a few miles my car develops an annoying squeak. I've decided this must be the handbrake because if I pull the handbrake just slightly on the squeak disappears. I guess a pad must be rubbing.
I've never adjusted the handbrake on my S2 Fulvia though ... but noticed this topic: http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1302.0 (http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1302.0)
Although the topic seems S1 specific is the handbrake set-up/adjustment the same on an S2?

2) It appears embarassingly easy to lock up my rear wheels! Driving the other day I had to brake quickly - not an emergency stop or anything - but the squeal of skidding rubber made it sound very dramatic and turned a few heads. I know there is a brake balancer device at the rear but is this something I can 'fiddle' with to get less rearward brake bias? Or am I barking up the wrong tree and this incident could be put down to a combination of no load in the boot and brand new tyres?!

Many thanks.

Hi Scott,
I'll leave how you adjust series 2 handbrake to those who know, ::) but there is no commonality with the handbrake set up on series 1 and series 2, they are totally different, with series 1 having a seperate set of pads in the rear calipers for the handbrake, while series 2 have a set of handbrake shoes in the rear disc hub.

Brian
8227 8)

If the car has been unmaintained for a few (say 10+) years it is likely you will need to remove the rear calipers and undo the hub nut (special castilated box spanner tool) and withdraw the hub to see if handbrake shoes are in good order and adjuster not seized. Adjusting the shoes is through a small apperture in the rear drum on a brass adjuster with a flat bladed screwdriver. Like as not this will be seized hence dismantle. Also what noises do you hear from the drum when spun by hand when jacked up?

Tim

regarding rear wheel lock up i would suspect the bias valve is faulty and letting too much pressure to the rear brakes.i think there is a diagram of the correct setup in the concise manual.also i know from experience if the suspension has been lowered ,the rod between the rear axle and valve should be shortened otherwise hard braking may result in a half spin which could be quite alarming.best regards richard

Richard is right - there is a diagram and instructions in the W/M about adjusting the compensator.   It is as sensitive that the adjustment should be made with spare wheel and tools out of the car, and tank empty!   Provided the two 8mm setscrews (13mm spanner) that hold the compensator on its bracket can be loosened-off slightly, the process is reasonably simple.   Correct adjustment makes a big difference to the feel and action of the brakes.

The information on the handbrake shoes and adjusters is also very relevant.   A word of caution - if you do remove the rear disc/hub and expose the brake-shoes, draw a diagram on paper of what shoe / spring / adjuster goes where, before removing anything.   The four brake-shoes are each different and not interchangeable.   There is leading and trailing, right and left side.

Regards - Roddy

Hope this helps

Brian
8227 8)

 :)

Thank you very much for the replies to my questions.

The handbrake mechanism was overhauled by a specialist ... although this has to be at least seven years ago. I'm hoping it is an adjustment rather than a rebuild job. Fingers crossed!

The comments on the brake balance limiter are very useful and, Brian, I really appreciate you taking the time out to provide relevant sections from the manual on this topic.

I'll be looking at both the handbrake mechanism and brake balance limiter this week sometime and will give an update after that.

Many thanks again.

Scott.

The brake limiter adjustment turned out to be quite straightforward. Thanks for the advice given.
It is not the original unit and has been replaced in my tenure so was not seized solid or anyhing.
Although my adjustment was perhaps not quite as accurate as it should been (i.e. doing it with an empty fuel tank) the adjustment I have made makes the braking balance far better. While it is still possible to lock up the back wheels, this is far more progressive/less agressive than before.

The squeaking rear brake(s) are more of a mystery. I had blamed the handbrake ... and indeed I adjusted it which I thought had cured the problem. But I did a fair few miles over the weekend and occassionally the squeak would come back. It's almost as if a pad - and it might be the main brakes not the handbrake - is staying on and rubbing (?). But not consistently. It's not a huge deal but it is annoying. Another look shortly methinks!  :-\

Re squeaking - they do need to be driven regularly. Also the pads do have a stainless shim (with copper grease or similar at the iterface with the pad and shimbetween them and the piston which is often missing.

Tim