Lancia Motor Club

Following discussions in the online database information section, I am setting up new threads for the receipt of technical information only, so as to gather it all in one place (per model) and to prevent duplication.   Please do not chat in this thread (except to correct errors of fact).

Head (and other) gaskets from:-

E Dobson and Co (Gaskets) Ltd
Springfield Mills
Oakworth Road
Keighley
BD21 1QQ

01535 607257

sales@dobsongasket.com

www.dobsongasket.com

Speak to  Andrew Jeffrey
See below for new post.

Piston rings any size and type (Google it) from

Clupet Piston Ring and Gauge Co.
Factory B Solway Industrial Estate
Maryport
Cumbria
CA15 8NF

01900 818361

I dealt with Alan who made five sets for my Aprilia for about £100.

 
Total engine work including cylinder boring on Lancia V4 engines with the correct jig

Serdi UK Ltd
Unit 1 Sarum Complex
Salisbury Road
Uxbridge
UB8 2RZ

01895 232215

info@serdi.co.uk

www.serdi.co.uk

Dynamic engine balancing - took violent wobbles out of my bitza Aprilia engine and have been known to do Lambdas as well.

Vibration Free
Unit 18, Green Farm
Fritwell
Bicester
Oxon
OX27 7QU

01869 345535

steve@vibrationfree.co.uk

www.vibrationfree.co.uk

Radiators   (rebuild and recore radiator for Aprilia,  £1000)

Vintage Radiator Company Ltd
Barnstones Busuness Park
Grimscote Road
Lichborough
Northants
NN12 8JJ

01327 830936

email@vintageradiatorcompany.co.uk
www.vintageradiatorcompany.co.uk
For those of us in t'North try
http://www.cumbriaradiators.co.uk/
who will fit an incredibly efficient modern core into your Lambda radiator for very much less money than Vintage.

For those of us in't north try Cumbria Radiators

VIIth exhaust manifold/downpipe bronze nut from
John Baxter
Pineview Engineering
Lingey Close
Dalston
Carlisle CA5 7LB
01228 710173
Beautifully made, fits perfectly, region of £55 + vat, mention my name.
David

Lambda steering geometry
Thanks to John Turner and Martin Cliffe I can now give the correct dimensions.  The sliding pillars must be parallel, I checked with a toe in gauge making allowance for the different diameters of the upper and lower pillars.  Castor is 2-3 degrees and toe in 0 to 10 mm with 0 being favoured by Bob West and John.
The drawing is from Jorges Malbran via John and is of the jig to set up the trapeze.  The measurements may not correspond to your car depending on what has happened over the years.

I have just come across this website whilst looking for 18mm plugs.  Looks good. 
         http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/

Bosch Starter motors are reversible.  There is a bridge on the underside of the brush mountings which is reversible.  The arrow shows the direction of rotation.  My thanks to John Millham for this information and the photo.

More information from John Millham

Actually, this is the real page 450, it follows from 449 and makes sense.  Sorry, no page numbers on the originals apart from 449!

I cannot find any evidence of a holding coil in the Lambda starter motor (as would be shown by a path to earth from the input lead of the auxiliary coil).   Getting the motor to work properly is a matter of fine adjustment of the pawl and trip lever mechanism to allow the pinion to engage fully with the flywheel ring before the trip lever trips and allows the main switch to send power to the main field winding via the lower contact.

Dynamo Rebuild.    I had the dynamo rewound - field coils, armature and new commutator - via http://www.ribblesdale.co.uk/contact-us  for about £450 all in.  Talk to Paul Billington.   Quick turn-round and seems an excellent job.  I replaced the rear bearing myself.   It is a BO 17, still available and described as a "magneto bearing".  You can get it from SKF for about £27+vat or generic for about a tenner.  The Chinese one has smaller balls than the original but I don't suppose that matters.  Getting the old bearing out was a struggle I had to resort to welding a bar across the inside of the outer race and tapping it out that way.

Leather for your Lambda restoration - stamped according to original design
Foglizzo
Lungo Dora Liguria, 58
10143 Torino - Italy
www.foglizzo.com
T: +39 011 5818 728
F: +39 011 4512 109

Lancia Blue

I have been researching.  Opinion is that Lancia Blue Lechler code is 121.  That is now yellow!  The correct code is 121L and the mix is...

I can confirm that this is a beautiful deep blue corresponding to Lancia Blue 1961 (no earlier reference is available).   

Brake and associated mechanisms

Third Gear Replacement

The 6x38mm hardened steel pins (11830) required for locating the gear wheels on the lay-shaft may be obtained from
http://www.boneham.co.uk/
at a cost of 10p each - plus £7.40 vat and postage!     They are actually 6x40mm and described as "Solid Metric Dowel Pins to DIN6325" and are 2mm too long but can be ground down to suit.

Cylinder block repair by cold metal spray, also crank straightening, white metal bearings, all repairs to ordinary Vintage and Classic engines (not Lancia rebores!).  See "fingers (and toes) crossed"
http://www.cylinderheads.co.uk/
Contact Nick Gilfillan, mobile +44 (0) 7768 622448

Magnesium sacrificial anodes
https://www.limekilnchandlers.co.uk/index.php?search[keywords]=magnesium+anode&_a=category

Lamda head gaskets from Dobson Gaskets (www.dobsongasket.com) 01535 607257
Ring up and talk to David (or, perhaps, Andrew)
The basic gasket is known as "Lambda type 78"  (SV7451)    This is laser cut from the original engineering drawings of the cylinder head and corresponds to the standard VIIth series bore of 77.3mm.  It is made from compressed graphite with a copper fire ring and should fit all VIIth series cars which have not been bored out too much.
If your bore is substantially more than 77.3mm you are into type 79 territory.  Type 79 standard bore is 82.55 but mine is much bigger!   You need to ask to be sent a template which is cut from 3mm pseudo-asbestos and offer it up to the block locating it by the vertical drive tunnel ring and the locating ring at the back of the block.    Carefully cut round the bores with a sharp knife held vertically against the cylinder walls and send it back  identified by the car's registration number.  This will be fed into the laser cutter via the CAD and will then be kept for future reference so if you need more gaskets quote "type 79 reg.  XX1111" and they will know what to do.

Lambda clutch spring data from Tony Stevens   
Spring type    Configuration  Open length mm  Closed length mm   Closed force Kg Compressed length mm
Original          .306"x.161" flat wire       81.5                     40                     82
JGV special     .230 round                   53.5                     40                     84                            30
Consortium     .307"x.192" flat             82.4                     40                      84                               

Le Nivex petrol gauge pump internals.  Should be a cup washer but a simple flat one seems to work for now.

Rear springs.    

Jones Springs 0121 5687575  http://www.jones-springs.co.uk/  speak to Kev.    Between us we have worked out the correct configuration of Lambda rear springs based on information ultimately from John Vessey and measurements taken by myself.    I have had the springs back and fitted them and they have settled into exactly the right configuration.   You have to remind them from time to time of course as is par for the course for engineering firms!

Works drawings springs

Works drawings springs

From a Glasurit swatch book, two different formulas for Lancia blu. Maybe this will help someone.... They list the blue from 1966. Don't know if the blue changed over the preceding years.

Petrol tank capacity 68litres = 14.95 imperial gallons.

Bearing lists, one nice original from RIV

Spark plugs (transferred from discussion elsewhere in Lambda)  NGK BP5HS seem to be the ones for VIIth and VIIIth at least.

Any idea of the dates of these? Thanks.

Lambda wiring diagram VII+ series.

Autovac = Le Nivex fuel pump according to The Modern Motor Mechanic 1955

Australian VIIIth undertray sketch

Fitting new stubaxle/pillars.
Remove springs etc. and lower guide 111008 as per instructions in the Book.
Fit sleeve 101014 screwing it down an inch or so.
Tap dpwnwards using a suitable drift (such as a block of wood) by a few mm in order to remove screw 10721 which is hiding at the back.  You can then unscrew 101058 - providing it is not seized!  
101012 then is removed upwards.     It is likely to be seized so tap it downwards until it is free then clean and lubricate it.  You can then fit a suitable tubular spacer and draw it upwards with 101014.
Insert new pillar assembly making sure you include ring 101058 above the stub axle and rings 111097 and 111009 below it.
Refit bottom sleeve 111008.
Refit sleeve 101012, using 101014 screwed on a bit if you need to tap it down.   Make sure the hole for the screw 10721 is in the right position.
Tap it down a few mm. past its proper place and screw on 101058 fully into place (it goes to the end of the thread), fit screw 10721 but not too tight, then draw the sleeve back up into place with 101014.   Tighten the screw and the sleeve is now properly fitted.
Fit thrust bearing and shield and sleeve 101011.  These all slide down inside 101012.
Fill the shock absorber with oil if you have not already done so.
Insert the springs and re-assemble the top end as per the Book.      
I found I had to draw up the damper rod 101034 using the spring extractor tool because it was too had a pull by hand unlike the old and presumably worn original in order to fit 101041.

Check camber and castor with spacer and set square with bubble level before installing springs.

Re. vertical shaft engine cam drive.

After correspondance with Mike Benwell and study of the Spares Catalogue, we have discerned the correct configuration of the bearings, to whit:-

In the head, the top bearing is a thrust bearing and the bottom one a plain ball bearing.
In the block, the same.

Thus, the thrust is directed downwards on both shafts, being pushed down on the top shaft and pulled down on the bottom one.

I found I needed about 1mm. of packing washers on both shafts to eliminate all play and ensure a trace of preload.  I even fitted the upper gear on the lower shaft (if you see what I mean) without the key and then pulled up the nut to check that it did not skid round on the shaft and also that it required a little tap to free it from the taper.  I made up an extractor to remove the gear and found that the threaded holes in the original gear are Whitworth but in the Consortium gear metric.  Fortunately, if you are removing an original gear, metric bolts will fit well enough!

Mark Bondini found some small magnetic inclinometers on Amazon, about 3" long - that just attach, and give you the angle from vertical (once they are set up correctly). Pretty cool stuff....

OIL FILTER

Searched for Purflux L107 which is the filter we have used in the past.  Very hard to find and very expensive.
inlinefilters.co.uk supply several equivalents of which the cheapest is FIN-FL70586.    Dimensions are right and I imagine it is no worse than the somewhat crude original.

Bill Smith on distortion etc in lambda engines (via Viva Lancia)    https://docplayer.net/126375885-cracking-and-corrosion-in-lancia-lambda-engines.html