Lancia Motor Club

I am rebuilding Sheila, my VIIth torpedo.  She has always had heavy steering.  I have removed (unbolted) the radiator frame to repair it (it was full of holes and cracks) and am thinking of welding it back to the side members.   The dimensions and orientation determine the steering geometry.   Does anybody have figures or drawings please?

David,

I recently purchased a book which contains reprints from The American Machinist magazine. The reprint, Vol 68 No 15 May 3rd 1928 deals with the Lambda body and frame construction. There are photographs and details of the radiator mounting although the photographs are not very good quality.

I don't think that the photographs will copy clearly enough  but if you think it may be of help I am happy to lend the book to you.

Robin.

Thanks to John Turner and Martin Cliffe I now have the correct figures which I have posted on the Technical Information thread.

I am making progress on this but it is more difficult than it should be because the standard dimensions do not fit! Terrible things have happened in the past and I shall have to take off the wings and get out the spirit levels and measuring sticks and go from first principles.  Here are some of the horrors.

With all those holes, and most of them oval, it reminds me of a vernier.  If only you could work out what goes into which hole...

Good luck!!

David

We make progress, albeit doggedly.   I discover a packing piece under the rear strut on one side but not the other - no wonder she always pulled to one side!  I have just been calculating the correct difference in the positions of the top and bottom of the sliding pillar with the aid of a little trigonometry and shall apply a bit more heat to the top tubes (!) to straighten them to the correct orientation with regard to my newly vertical radiator frame so as to get the castor angle the same on both sides.   I have already untwisted them! 
I have set the chassis level so far as I can tell and am using a long spirit level to orientate the radiator frame and hence the sliding pillars.  I have got them parallel across the front at least and presumably at right angles to the ground so as to get the camber right.  I suppose I had better put the spirit level to the brake drums to see if the angle is the same both sides.  The bottom "axle" frame is at least level even if the garage floor isn't.

Ha!   By use of packing pieces and judicious heat, we now have castor of 2.5 degrees and camber of 3 degrees each side.  All I have to do now is reassemble and install the engine, weld up the torpedo and respray and we can see how it feels.  She'll get to Fobello yet (but just in case, there's not too much to do on Old Boot).

I welded up all the eccentric holes and started again, it seemed simpler in the long run.  I had to heat and beat the sides of the torpedo straight as well.   Photo to follow when I finish all the drilling and bolting together.

Here are all the new holes and the signs of heat applied to correct the angles etc.

Robin -
Thanks for the note about the American Machinist reprints. No the photos aren't great, but they were as good as could be done: the microfiche was gotten unusually from the US Library of Congress, and scanned as best I could. To get it better, a hard copy of the magazine has to be found, and then scanned, but this is easier said than done!

Wish it were better, but at least its out there. For what its worth, a PDF of the booklet can be gotten as well - probably the best way to view it on screen. It can be found at:

http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/lancia-reprints/11059932

Geoff Goldberg

Finally got her all back together a week before setting off to Fobello and drove down the road to find she steers beautifully and straight as a die.   Alas, arrived back home with water in No 2 cylinder so took Old Boot instead.  At least the steering geometry is correct, now have to find the invisible crack in the head that opens up only after 15 miles....

Talk about peaks and throughs, :o bad luck David, hope it isn't too serious.

Brian
8227 8)

Turns out  crack was in inlet tract and inaccessible.  New head and valves etc, £4K later and we shall see this afternoon!