Lancia Motor Club

Almost there, now the weather has warmed up i''ve been putting the engine back together, i honed the bores, fitted new rings, mains and big end bearings, had the head gas flowed, new timing chain and tensioner, it's all back together all i've got to do next is valve and ignition timing, refit the rad and she's ready.
Just a quick question, what oil do you use in the 1600? the book recommends a 20-50, should i use a fully synthetic or semi?
Cheers,
Tony.
ps Brian, i used the honing tool you showed me and it was great, did the job really well and better still, when i showed a mate which tool i was going to buy for the job, he'd just bought it for himself so i got it for free! 8)

Hi,

I always used to use Castrol RS 10-60 which is fully synthetic and available (or used to be) from Opie Oils and others. Quite expensive but probably worth it in my view.

They also do a 0-40 which is too thin in my view.

I would wait for others to give views too.

With new rings and honed bores, I would suggest that you revert to the old practice of 'running-in' the engine for about a 1000 miles, using a pure mineral oil, then draining it.   As the engine would not be subject to extremes, then even a 10/40 would be suitable.   Using a synthetic oil right away, can prolong the bedding-in process, as it is just too slippery.   Like Jai, I would strongly recommend using a full synthetic oil, once 'run-in'.   Castrol RS gives good pressure when hot, but is getting quite difficult (and expensive!) to get.   You could try a 15/50 as the engine is quite fresh.   I must admit to being a convert to Morris Lubricants as representing good value for money, and of course the oil is drained off about annually, without necessarily having covered a very high mileage.

Regards - Roddy Young

I use castrol 10 60 fully synth and get it from Wilco chain - expensive but worth it.

Tim

ps Brian, i used the honing tool you showed me and it was great, did the job really well and better still, when i showed a mate which tool i was going to buy for the job, he'd just bought it for himself so i got it for free!

Pleased it worked well Tony, and even better if someone else paid for it!

Brian
8227 8)

Just to add, Roddys advice to run in with non synthetic is good advice in my view.

I assume this would be suitable for any Fulvia engine rebuild or possibly all rebuilds?   
I am interested in the gas flowed head on your 1600, if much improvement is gained and if you any other changes, manifold/carbs etc.

Thanks for the advice, will start with non synthetic then switch to castrol 20-50, I think modern oils are too light for these older engines.
Neil the gas flowing makes the engine run smoother and crisper also better on fuel, not that they're bad anyway but it does improve the performance.
If you do get it done warn whoever does it that the waterway is VERY thin and close to the inlet ports and is easily gone through, I had mine done at Ken Riley engineering who used to do all our Fulvia work many years ago so still remembers how careful you have to be.
You can have the inlet manifold ported as well but we never used to bother as the main gain was from the head work.
If you want his details let me know, he's in High Wycombe and does alot of race prep on engines.
I'm sure there are lots of other people on here that have more experience in race tuning though, I just wanted a good fast road car! ;D

I recommend SEP Kegworth near M1 J23A. They build lots of race bike engines and sorted out my cyl head with Neale Shepherd spec 35mm inlet valves. Peter Gerrish assembled the unit and she runs superbly after tune up by ex Fanalone owner John at Lambs Garage Clowne. Just won 1300-1600cc class at CSCC race Donnington with best lap of 1:35

Motul 20-50 race oil is superb stuff - available at discount from Opie Oils for LMC club members.

Well done !!

David

Well, after a final push to get the engine finished at the weekend and some half moon gaskets that were NOT included in the FULL gasket set supplied by Omicron recieved today, I filled her with oil, connected the battery, turned over a few times with the low tension lead disconnected to pump oil round then, lead connected away she went on the button! almost thirty years since I last did this and chuffed that I can still do it.
Thanks to you all for your help here in advising and Nigel Hargreaves (My old boss) for his advice on the end of the phone!
The Fulvia is running beautifuly and will be running her in over the next few weeks before the winter weather arrives.
Next job brakes, new disc's and calliper rebuilds all round ermm................more agro, cut fingers and bruised hands lol ;D
Thanks guy's!

Well done again!! When will it hit the road for all to see?

Tim

Hi Tim,
It hit the road tonight to the local petrol station to pick up some beers! lol
Also need to do a couple of cv boots inner and outer for the mot, shouldn't take too long.
Will be at my next local meet at Bicester in a couple of months but will try to be around before then.
Tony.

Useful to check head bolt torque and valve clearance after about 400 miles. Andrea

Tony,

Yes, well done!

The story of your engine rebuild has gone under different headings, including “Bore-honing” and then “Engine rebuild 1600”. It would be great if you could tell us how it all went, and when you get to it, some indication of oil consumption. I think you said that you simply (ha ha!) honed the bores and fitted new rings. I would be interested to know how this worked for you.

Thanks,

Colin 

Hi Colin,
It's taken such a long time having been waiting for parts and bits to be machined and then finding the time to work on it, I took last weekend off to finish it just to find out Sat afternoon the half moon rubber gaskets were missing from the set, Omicron then charged me another £6.80 for them telling me they were'nt gaskets! I've taken lot's of photo's but still don't know how to load them up on here, I was going to show Brian the pic's of the bores after honing with a machine he recommended
The only job left to do on the engine now is to check the ignition timing.
I'm going to do about 600 miles with the mineral oil in the change to fully synthentic, I'll then monitor the consumption, oil pressure last night with engine at normal temp was 40-45psi and driving it shot up to 90psi, prior to the rebuild it was 0 on tick over and 30-40 when being driven, not an ounce of blue from the exhaust when started and a lot quieter than before.
As I said before, it's almost 30 years ago since I used to rebuild these for a living and it's amazing how quickly you remember things  ;) 

Tony,

I am full of admiration and a bit of envy!

Am I right in remembering that you did all this with the engine/ block in-situ in the car? Perhaps you should lead a master-class.

Colin

Yes Colin, we never used to remove the block unless it needed crank work, this can be easily checked from underneath, thankfully mine was perfect so I left it in situ.
You'll be amazed at how much room there is to work on it when you have the rad out and head off.
As for Master class, i'll leave that one with Harry! bless him.