Lancia Motor Club

Started to use the fulvia (s1 coupe) to get to work again (Chippenham to swindon on the m4, give me a wave!), have a niggly little problem where main beam starts to flicker after a couple of mins then they go completely out, battery is charging and don't have the heater or any other electrical items on.  Switching back to dipped and that works fine, all the dash lights are still on and rears.  Have checked the fuse which is fine and cleaned up the terminals of the indicator/ light switch.  When everything is cold, eg next day it works again for a few mins.  Anyone any ideas please?

Cheers Richard

Ps anyone going to fulvia 50 from this neck of the woods?

A temporary earth connection directly to the control "stalk" would identify if there is a poor earth in that area. Richard

Also worth checking the return springs in the indicator switch are not weak and allowing intermittent contact,

Brian
8227

Thanks both for the feedback,  I've checked both and it looks ok, I was wondering if it was some heat thing as it will be fine for a few mins, will gradually start flickering and getting worse and then the main beam will cut out, but after a few hours will be back working again, only to do the same again.

From bitter experience I would check the fuse box again and look for overheating of the spade terminal.   In my car the two headlight fuses are served by a single connection on the live side. 

Thanks David, I'll check the fuse box as the fuses have played up a while ago with either total headlight failure, or main beam on permanently, any suggestions as to the cause of overheating? Thanks Rich

Perhaps this may or may not be of relevance to the problem.  Remember that the Fulvia was a car of the 1960s.  In those heady days of motoring, you had sidelights and headlights.  Headlamps occasionally had to be dipped for on-coming traffic...!!

On my S1 Fulvia, the headlights have to be switched on with the column lever in the forward position, i.e. main beam.  Putting on the dash switch with the column lever in the dipped position (i.e. nearest the wheel rim), usually results in the relay not working and no lights coming on, or the relay points clicking in and out as all the circuits fight with each other. It sure confuses the MOT man too.

Regards - Roddy 

Dirty terminal = high resistance=overheating.

Sometimes wires can get pinched/cut as they exit the steering column/dash board area. Take the covers off. I found by coincidence the green wire (to main beam solenoid) was almost cut through as I was lowering the steering wheel position the other day. Any way repaired and no harm done.

Thanks all, I tried them with the column lever switch on to main beam to start but got the same thing- those were the days!  Will try taking the shroud off and have a poke around

Cheers
 Richard