Lancia Motor Club

This is the place to post technical information and tips such as reliable suppliers.  No chat please, keep that for other threads as it will clutter this one up and render it of much less utility.  There are stacks of stuff already on the Fulvia forum but I have no idea of how to transfer it here.  Check out the threads on Lambda and Aprilia fora for an example of how it should work (for the most part!)

Well done, will have a look. Richard

Spark Plugs for Fulvia engines http://www.alma.it/vanzettip/fulvia/eng/fulvia.sparkplugs.html

818.540 cylinder heads http://www.alma.it/vanzettip/fulvia/eng/testate.540.html

Lots of technical info, well sorted, there:
http://www.viva-lancia.com/fulvia/qanda/index.php

From Lucas Injection http://www.lucasinjection.com/lancia_fulvia.htm

Brakes binding.
Series II brakes have a tendency to bind on because the master cylinder piston may not be able to retract fully..  Standard advice is to dive into the footwell and shorten the brake actuating rod.  If this does not work then you need to remove the master cylinder and shorten (by screwing in) the rod pictured.  This happened to me after the brake booster had been rebuilt.
According to Omicron the domed head of the rod should be level with the front surface of the servo.

Can also be due to the pads coming off their backing plates.

Lancia Blue 1961 to end of Lancia true is now Lechler 121L (not 121 any more, this is now yellow).  Suitable for Fulvii but not listed, I think, as an original colour for them.

I'm interested in the possibility of fitting Fulvia 1.6 pistons in my Lambda, which has a bore of 83.00 mm. Does anyone have a drawing of such a piston, or even a piston they could measure. Obviously I'm interested in the gudgeon pin size and position, weight with pin and rings and shape of the crown. Also, does anyone have a spare set?
Regards, John

Hi John,

Not sure if S1 and S2 pistons are the same. I've got a set from our S1 Fanalone which may be of use if only for measuring. I could bring them to the Phoenix on Thursday if you're going to be there.

Robin.

Thanks Robin. That would be great. I'll bring a measuring stick!
 Regards, John

John, In case you didn't know, the engine in John Turner's Tourer (ZI 59) had Fulvia 1600 pistons. The standard bore for 1600 Fulvia engines is 82 mm. Maybe John had fitted over-sized pistons - probably not easy to get now.

Colin

 

Thanks Colin. My engine will hone out to 83 mm, which is better than having to have it rebored, so Fulvia pistons might well suit it.
Regards, John

OOOH A Lambda HF  :o :D ;)

John, But you might find that 82.60 is the largest pistons and rings that are in theory available as standard.

Incidentally, there is (or was) a Lada engine with 82 mm bores. Barry Waterhouse used to have a stock of Lada 82 mm rings with up to +0.60 oversize - much cheaper than any Fiat or Lancia originals.

Colin

Lock codes
(reposted frm another thread)



08227 Brian+Hilton
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Useful Information from SA
« on: 11 May, 2015, 01:15:14 PM »
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Felix Fertag in SA has just posted this on his Lancia Parts site.


Dear Fulvia Driver
I spend Sunday/mothers day to once and for all sort out all our Fulvia locks. As you know S1 and S2 have different locks. I have sorted the locks and compiled the part numbers,
and below is the result I want to share with you as a reference for any future requirements.
Lancia Fulvia Locks   
Fulvia S1   Fulvia S2
lockset   1817914   1820916
key   2180156   2277081
boot    1890607   1891464
filler   1791212   1891532
glove   1890611   1891435
lockset   1817913   
key   2172508   
door   1890710   1891426
ignition   1791216   
ignition      1821224
key      2276783


Brian
8227 Cool

S2 Sport headlight bulbs (Omicron type headlights)   http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/sc/h4-headlight-bulbs-472-12v-60-55w/

Power curves for Fulvia engine

A drawing showing the positions of the bolts securing the dashboard top, wooden fascia panel and lower dashboard in a Fulvia Coupe (S2).  Also a guide to removal and replacement.

Notes on which electrical items are connected to which fuses, for a standard S2 Fulvia. Also advice on Lancia recommended fuse rating (Avvis/Luci Interne (fuse7) = 25/30amp).

To be read in conjunction with the wiring diagram in the Fulvia Instruction Manual or with the Fulvia Electrical Flowchart (this section).

    
Fulvia paint codes
« on: 05 September, 2016, 10:24:10 PM »
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https://www.facebook.com/notes/lancia-fulvia-coup%C3%A8fulvia-1200hfcoup%C3%A8-rallye-1300-1300hf1300-s-1600-hf/i-colori-e-gli-allestimenti-delle-fulvia/1719786818283835

From,
Alan Cooper.

Found in the Data Tech. 2nd ed. at larger resolution.

Inertia seat belts
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271410026929?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thanks to Stanley Sweet.

The company selling them as per the listing is

Vintage Warehouse 65
Mark Houghton
51 NEW ROAD
BROMSGROVE
Worcestershire
B60 2JU
United Kingdom

Phone:07741 256356
Email:993@gmx.com

     reposted from Norm Thomas

For anybody undertaking a dashboard restoration I've summarised the process below.  I suggest reading this summary, and taking a close look at the step-by-step pictures and descriptions in the blog above.

05/03/2021    Norm has just contacted me;

After 5 years the veneer on my dash has lifted (bubbled) a few millimetres in a couple of places.   In retrospect I don’t think the adhesive that is on the back of the iron-on veneer is entirely suitable for long term application and associated temperature variations.  If I were doing the job again I’d use plain veneer (without the self-adhesive backing) and  apply an appropriate glue and then clamp the dashboard while the glue is drying.
 
You have been warned!

ASSEMBLE MATERIALS
- mahogany iron-on veneer, from veneers online.co.uk website (about £15 for a sheet big enough for 4 dashboards).
- large sheet of white paper (to protect veneer while ironing it on).
- wood glue, if needed for repair (small bottle of Evo Stick wood glue from B&Q).
- wood filler, if needed for repair (small tube of Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler, Light, Medium Oak, from B&Q).
- Swann Morton surgical scalpel (£3 on Amazon, and 100 blades (about £10 on Amazon) I used about 60 blades.
- plywood off-cut for practicing ironing and cutting techniques, and hole-saw (hole saw is only for cutting holes in the plywood to simulate dashboard openings).  
- sandpaper: 150 grit for sanding cut veneer edges.
- wet&dry paper (used dry): 400  and 1500  for final finishing of cut-outs, and 1500 for lightly sanding the varnished surface between coats.
- small blocks to wrap sandpaper around, for sanding straight edges.
- curved objects to wrap sandpaper around for sanding circular sections: I used a pen, a large tablespoon, and a baked beans can.
- tack rags for wiping dust off surface.
- exterior clear gloss varnish (not water based). I used Ronseal Outdoor Varnish - Gloss - about £7 for small tin from B&Q.
- good quality 1” paint brush.
PREPARATION
- be careful handling the wooden dash panel - edges can be dry and fragile,  and the thin rear surface can chip away easily (pieces can be glued back on if they come away).
- fill any holes or imperfections - using wood filler, then sand.  Build up filler in small layers.
- repair any de-lamination with wood glue and clamp or place under heavy objects (large books are good) until set.
- cut piece of veneer using the dashboard as a pattern - about an inch over size.
PRACTICE
- use some of the leftover veneer pieces to practice on.
- I bought a plywood off-cut for 50p from a local hardware store, and cut holes in it with a hole saw (the type used for cutting holes in doors for handles and locks) and sanded these smooth.
- practice ironing veneer to the plywood off-cut using a thin sheet of paper between iron and veneer - have iron set at “cotton” .
- practice cutting out the hole-saw apertures (see technique hints below).
ATTACH VENEER
- iron the veneer to the dashboard using a thin sheet of paper between iron and veneer - have iron set at “cotton”.
- move the iron slowly over surface but be careful not to burn veneer.
- put the dashboard under heavy weights (large books are good) for 48 hours.
- examine  edges to confirm that veneer has adhered properly.
- any edges where veneer is not attached can be fixed by ironing the area again - then repeating the weighting process for 48 hours
TRIM PERIMETER
- place dashboard veneer-side down on a hard surface (piece of wood, or cutting mat) and holding scalpel vertically cut around perimeter, using edge of dashboard as a guide for the blade.
CUT OUT OPENINGS
- with dashboard veneer-side down, hold scalpel vertically and cut around openings, leaving just a few millimetres of overlapping veneer.
- turn the dashboard over and start cutting the overlapping veneer from within the first opening.
- start with one of the large circular openings as cutting gets more difficult  with the smaller radius curves.
- carve the excess off in narrow slivers.  Attempting to cut too wide a sliver can result in splintering.
- cut on the down stroke only.  Trying to cut on the up stroke can also cause splintering.
- change blade frequently - I got through about 60 blades in total.
- the practicing sessions (see above) will have shown the best way to hold the panel, and in which direction (clockwise or anti-clockwise) to cut.
- once the opening is near to the required finished size the scalpel can be held against the chamfered plywood edge to remove final small pieces of veneer.
- the cut-outs do not have to be completely regular, as the sanding stage will remove irregularities and allow a smooth edge to be achieved.
- fine sandpaper should then be used to achieve a smooth finish. I started with 150 grit and finished with 400.
- wrapping the sandpaper around an object that closely matches the radius being sanded is a good approach. I used a pen, a large tablespoon, and a baked beans can, depending on radius.
- use sandpaper wrapped around a flat block for sanding straight edges.
- may need to tidy up areas where the glue backing on the veneer is too visible, by carefully scraping it away with a finger nail.  As shown in the step-by-step photo sequence earlier in this blog.
EXAMINE FOR DETACHED VENEER
- after all cut-outs have been made, the dash should be examined to see if the cutting process has caused the veneer to lift away from the plywood backing in any places.
- I found three areas where this happened, and I repeated the hot ironing process just on these areas and weighted the dash down again for 48 hours
VARNISH
- lightly sand the veneer surface and wipe with a tack-rag.
- apply first coat of varnish very, very thinly, to avoid that it wets the veneer too much and causes buckling.
- adjust your angle of view to see light reflected on the varnish in order to see any areas of puddling of the varnish, and brush these out with a dryish brush.
- leave for a day, then lightly sand with 1500 grit paper and apply second coat.
- repeat this process another 3 times giving 5 coats in total, or until you are happy with the finish.

Good luck!

Safety information from various people added bu Norm's request.   Read, mark and inwardly digest! David


Word of caution........in my career using endless scalpel blades, the biggest risk of injury was the fitting and removal of scalpel blades, hence a policy of single use (infection purposes) and the use of a special implement to hold blade whilst fitting or removing same!

They can inflict horrific injuries!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0082CW90M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/254-6179918-5827767?ie=UTF8&qid=1484687715&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scalpel+blade+remover&dpPl=1&dpID=310c-SlU8vL&ref=plSrch

This for removal and disposal, single use


https://www.pearsondental.com/catalog/product.asp?majcatid=41&catid=2391&subcatid=1129&pid=58670&dpt=0

http://www.sklarcorp.com/scalpels/blade-removers/blade-removal-forceps.html

The first allows the simultaneous raising of the rear locking element at the same time as sliding the blade off.


Safety first, second and third guys!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0082CW90M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/254-6179918-5827767?ie=UTF8&qid=1484687715&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scalpel+blade+remover&dpPl=1&dpID=310c-SlU8vL&ref=plSrch

This for removal and disposal, single use

I've been using scalpels for years - back in pre-computer days they were essential for artwork in studios. Couple of things - you were quite right not to skimp on them as they are pretty cheap. The other thing if you are doing difficult cuts is to watch your eyes. Quite unbelievably, but true as I witnessed it myself, at college a friend was trying to cut a curve through thick material. The blade bent and snapped in half and pinged off the lens of his glasses. He then put another one in and it snapped and pinged off the other lens! He didn't wear glasses all the time so it was a lucky escape.   Safety glasses all the time!


P

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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
2015 Alfa Romeo Mito
2011 Peugeot 207 in Spain
2016 Ford Focus Estate
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s

Body dimensions

SII Brake master cylinder internals.

transferred from another thread

Shock absorber data from Sliding Pillar

Parts catlogue CDs 
http://www.viva-lancia.com/specials/cd/fulvia-cd.php

List of Lancia clours from Paul Mayo

I believe the blue seal is sometimes an o ring in some se4vice kits.

I found these if anyone is looking to replace their headlight bucket grommets.  They are a perfect fit and the price is right.

http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c51409.htm

Another site nearer to home that is good for bits and bobs

https://www.oldtimerbedarf.de/gummi

http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9873.735    for information on the BOOT LOCK

*
Posts: 379
Fulvia valve timing
by
00364 Andrea+Nistri
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Timing the valves of the Fulvia engine is quite complicated and confusing, and it should not undertaken unless one is confident to know what he is doing. Personally I never used the Lancia manual method and always relied on the 2.2 mm method that I learned from Harry Manning. He actually used to sell these bespoke feeler gauges and of course the accuracy of timing depends on how accurate the gauge is. Basically the method relies on the maximum valve lift that is correct at 2.2 mm ONLY for 818.303 engines. This is important.

Assuming the camshafts, rockershafts, etc are all correctly refitted, the tappets screws of all valves must be wound fully inside the tappets. Then adjust valve clearance for inlet and outlet valves of cylinder 1 for maximum lift (2.2 mm) i.e. back of cylinder 1 cam lobes after turning (by hand) both camshafts in such position. Subsequently, turn by hand intake camshaft clockwise and exhaust camshaft anticlockwise until camshaft marks are aligned. If OK so far, there must be no free play for both valves of cylinder 1. Chain can now be fitted (if not done earlier) to both camshafts with its tensioner spring slackened.
Turn the engine until cylinder 1 is at top dead center (0 on the flywheel flange with 1/4 on the bellhousing) and make sure it is indeed at TDC. Easy to make mistakes here: I use a whistle fitted to the plug hole to signal TDC.
Turn again the engine one full revolution very slowly and check that tappet 1 play starts disappearing as flywheel 0 mark approaches. At 0 there should be no free play and as soon as 0 is passed slowly, there should free play for the exhaust 1 tappet. Retension the tensioner, turn the engine and recheck as above.

If these conditions are not attained for example on the intake camshaft, slacken the tensioner, don't shift the camshaft position and after lifting the chain by hand and carefully removing the intake sprocket wheel (and dowel if present), move it one or two teeth clockwise (advance) or anticlockwise (retard) for setting the intake timing correctly and refit it loose. Retension the tensioner and see if timing is now correct after turning the engine.
The procedure is essentially the same for the exhaust camshafts. If OK, set all valve clearances as per book (0.15 inlet, 0.25 outlet)

If the timing is correct, sprocket bolts can be torqued up and blocked with their locking tabs. It is very important to note that although working with cylinder 1, the distributor must be fitted with rotor firing cylinder 4.

The final check for everything done properly is:
rotor arm firing cylinder 4, timing marks aligned with marks on the camshaft front supports,
piston number 4 at TDC, flywheel zero aligned with 1/4 mark on the bellhousing, free play on inlet and outlet valves of cylinder 4.
I hope this helps. With Harry's method we  never had any problems for a large number of 303 engines over nearly 40 years, Andrea

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Andrea Nistri

Further details of master cylinder rebuild here   http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12480.15 

Second series wiring diagrams from the Coupe/Sport Instruction book.  I don't know why the key for Coupe s printed twise but there is is...

Here is the wiring diagram for the RHD Series 3 Coupe - extracted from the Series 3 Owner's Handbook, second edition.

From Beckerman67

 Fulvia S2 Colour Wiring Diagram

During my restoration I made a list of bolts, nuts, washers etc that I needed to buy. It is not a complete list - please use it for guidance.
It is sorted in TAV number for easy reference

I have tried to make a comprehensive colour chart for Fulvias - this is what I was able to find out.
It includes colours for the different series with colour chip and a picture of the car in the colour, Including the paint codes

I have taken the Torque settings out of the Tech Data, for my series 2, and tried to give better descriptions. I have also sorted them by TAV

Hi

I bought an 18mm lhd brake master cylinder from pieces-fulvia. Then bought an adaptor / pushrod (140mm) from Omicron.

When my mechanic attempted to bleed the front brakes, he discovered 4/5 mmFREE PLAY on the brake pedal before connecting with the master cylinder. To eliminate this FREE PLAY, he said the pushrod needs to be close to 150mm.

Omicron said they never had a problem with their 140mm pushrod, fitted to lhd 18mm master cylinders and that it could be another problem!

1) Would anyone know what else could be the problem.

2) How much FREE PLAY should there be when a lhd master cylinder & apaptor plate / pushrod is fitted?

3) Can the brake pedal be adjusted?

Many thanks

Sure I have replied to this elsewhere but cannot find it.   As compared with my car, this is normal.

Accelerator roller and pivot bearing references
(Resolves sticking accelerator pedal issue)

Bearings to replace 2 rubber rollers behind pedal (item 38, see attached picture)

626 2RS Mini Deep Groove Ball Bearing Single Row (2 required)
Space out from the lever with M6 washers, 2 each side.

Accelerator pedal lever bearing (item 4)

NKI  10/20 Needle Roller Bearing with Machined Inner Ring (1 required)
The needle roller will also required some brass thrust washers either side. Fortunately it’s narrower than the original nylon bearing so there is room. I used 4 x M10 (20.5 OD) 1mm thick washers, 2 each side.

Earlier relevant posts:
http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=10614.0

http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12505.msg89752#msg89752

http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5078.0