Lancia Motor Club

Could someone please tell me what circuits each fuse covers from left to right (73/4 Fulvia Montecarlo). Nothing in the handbook and the fuse cover seems to be abbreviated Italian which google translate couldn't help with!
Did a search and a few posts about ratings but couldn't find anything that says what fuse1=, fuse2=, etc.
I can see a circuit diagram in the back of the handbook but haven't been able enlarge it to the point where I can actually see it!

There is a flowchart on Lancisti site, dont know if this is in LMC site. try  www.lancisti.net/forum/showthread.php?5150-S2-Coupe-Fuses&highlight=fulvia+fuse   
 

PS. entry no 16:23/6/2013

that's just what I needed. Thanks

One of the reasons I wanted to know the fuse layout was to trace a few things that weren't working.

One of these are the dashboard instrument lights. Turn signals, handbrake, main beam all work & illuminate on the panel but I'm struggling to get the instruments lit up.
I've changed the dimmer rheostat and have put a test probe on and confirm it is live.
I've also taken the instrument panel out, replaced all the bulbs and passed a live to some of the individual connections (I had to remove the red and white connector blocks to get the panel out).
When hooking up a temporary live feed, I've checked the back of each bulb holder with the test probe and confirm all appears good.
Obviously, I'm working in daylight and everything appears to test ok but I can't see any sign of illumination when I put everything back together. I would have expected to see some illumination of the dash lights. Could there be something I've missed or are the dash lights feint at the best of times?

as has been said many times , electrical faults are more often than not caused by poor earthing. also try by-passing the rheostat so you know you have a current. the lights probably wont very visible in daylight, they should be in the dark.

yes, your probably right. Checked the rheostat and all is well. Now have one dash light so others are likely still a duff connection somewhere. Going to remove the unit once again and be a little more thorough with the cleaning of the circuit board.

For the future Omicron do a fusebox sticker in English and Italian which I have on mine. Also, don't hold your breath on instrument lighting. Yes, they light up, but more in the fashion of a WW2 bomber than a modern car. The brightest setting on the rheostat is probably equivalent to the lowest on a modern. You won't be needing sunglasses!

Has anyone tried LED bulbs?

David

As a precaution, thinking that my efforts with the existing bulbs might end in failure I have ordered a set of led bulbs and what appears to be a very similar bulb holder from ebay.  I thought I'd either try and fit to the existing fitments in the instrument panel and failing that, rig up some alternative with a new feed.
I'll let you know how I get on. Suffice to say, I can't live with the WW2 Bomber lighting mentioned earlier!

A "before and after" shot here:

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/upgrades/instrument-illumination-upgrade/

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/DashLEDCREEstdNewweb.jpg

Its also interesting to see that they do "heat and sound" upgrades as well:

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/upgrades/heat-sound-insulation/

David

Have to say, I prefer "before".  The leds seem too bright and definitely too white.   On the other hand, Fulvia lights are particulrly dim!

Must say, I have a soft spot for my Lancaster's, I mean Fulvia's feebly lit instruments. To me it's part of stepping back into that era. Maybe the LED's turned right down might give an improvement but still look a bit period.

I've made some progress on this. I have managed to get all backlights working on the binnacle with the exception of the main beam blue light (next job tomorrow). As suggested, all down to bad earths. I have replaced the bulbs for leds and they are an improvement but still not very bright. That might be due to the speedo and rev counter not letting much light through. Certainly the indicators/headlamp & other warning lights are brighter. Overall, a big improvement on before which was the main objective.
I could improve the backlighting further by adding additional bulbs or perhaps even modifying the instruments to allow more light through but I'll probably leave as is.
At least I can now actually read the speedo and rev counter at night which before was impossible.

Next job will be checking the remainder of the wiring and then having a go at getting the door courtesy lights & under bonnet light working. Again, I'll probably use led.

havin just read this thread , I have a zagato in at the moment with similar faults, main cause is bad connections in the fuse box mostly corroded connecters and corrosion where the wire goes into the spade connectors , quickest solution I've found on the last 3 fulvia's has been to cut off every connection to the fuse box and relays, clean the wire where it goes into the new connector as this often corrodes under the pvc and everything works, all I've found in the past is that the faults generally spread to other electrical circuits and your for ever taking the dash apart, I will take a photo of what I've done and post it up over the weekend, sounds more daunting than it is and 1.5 full days (a weekend) you could sort it easily, I absolutely hate electrics but fulvias are pretty straight forward and if done right will last another 20>30 yrs , hope this helps and good luck j

another common fault while I remember and again easily solved is corrosion between the rivits in the fuse box that pass through the plastic and  connect the spade end to the fuse end, if you clean the ends of the rivit up and solder them a good connection in the fuse box is restored

I now have working dash lights together with all of the other warning lamps, etc on the dash.
Next job is to sort out my main beam and indicators. Both work fine until I have main beam on and want to indicate. The main beam knocks the indicators out. I've done a test and know that it is not related to the instrument panel as the same issue occurs when I bypass the instruments. I took the indicator/headlamp stalk apart but got stymied not being able to undo the small chrome nut on the indicator. This mean't I couldn't take the control unit out of the housing. There seems very little space inside and I can see a few bare wires so think it is the likely culprit. I might try some heat on the nut to try and loosen but have already tried gripping it in a vice, etc.
I'm likely to do it some damage so want to source another stalk so if anyone has one, please let me know.

Also spent plenty of time cleaning up all connections & the fuse board/rivets (as suggested) using a miniature wire brush on a dremel so getting confident that my earth issues will soon becoming to an end!

this is what I was on about with the soldering of the rivits on the fuse box , well worth while doing

When I first got the B20 I ignored all the obvious "to-do" items and had every last wire stripped out by John Savage who then did a rewire.   For sure the car still broke down but they were "proper ones" not some dumb wire buried someplace awkward.   

Am I alone being tolerant of mechanical failure but profoundly irritated by electrical maladies?

David

No - but my reason is not having any understanding of electrics apart from the very basics like fitting a switch, fuses, or spotting a loose wire. Usually you can see or hear a mechanical fault and if you're lucky can rig up a get-you-home fix. The world of electrics is mysterious and silent and I envy those who can easily go through and trace faults. No doubt there are people who find electrics the most straight forward and the mechanics unecessarily time consuming. I will be following Chugga's advice in the future though of cleaning and soldering the rivets.

to set the record straight....I HATE ELECTRICS!!!!, however if I do them and do them right 1st time fingers crossed I don't have to do it again!!  ;) :D

When I got someone else to do it right first time I then had no issues.  Clutch in an out all day long for fun, mystery flat battery not fun.

Something I've done on a number of cars is a battery isolator switch - improves the chances of there being juice in the jar.  An Anderson socket under the dash for a booster battery is another favourite.

David

Hi guys, I'm just about to start a COMPLETE rewire of the Stratos replica including the Bosch Motronic loom. That's the easy bit. The difficult bit, for me, is that I'm making the original Group 4 fusebox that's been in the car functional and not decorative. Whilst I want everything to be as reliable as possible one of the weak looking points is the fusebox contacts that are kinda dirty. The problem is how to clean them up, I can't remove them from the plastic of the fusebox so I'm hoping someone might have an idea of a solution I can drop the whole assembly into that will clean the contact without damaging the plastic...

The fusebox looks just like the one in this thread. Except it's 16 fuses long.....

Cheers

Guy

I used scotch bright and a rotary wire wheel (brass) in a small air drill, brass wire brush works well too as it doesn't seam to damage the plastic

I always have a can of electrical switch cleaner to hand. Works well on all electrical contacts. Used it today to clean up very grubby rear bulb holders on the Fulvia Berlina.

Lots to choose from on Ebay etc.

Robin.

Similar to Chugga - I use a small brass-wired brush on a Dremel

Thanks for the hints! I'll have to go and get some little brass brushed and try that method and also the electrical contact cleaner. I've also tried vinegar (not very effective) and brown sauce but with limited results! It works quite well on coins and contacts I can remove easily from the fusebox but for some reason, not so well on contacts in the plastic fusebox... Fortunately it comes off easily enough in the dish washer!

Ta

Guy

Baker's Soldering Fluid.

just use a kettle of boiling water over it afterwards to neutralise the acid or it corrodes even worse!! we use it for lead loading, great stuff but terrible in the same sence if not cleaned off properly