Lancia Motor Club

Perhaps I'm a bit thick this morning, but what are the ratings for the
White
Red,
Blue
fuses, please.

Brian
8227 8)

Here you go Brian.

Bosch type fuse (used in older cars)
Bosch type fuses (also known as torpedo, ATS, or GBC type fuses) are used in old (often European) automobiles. The physical dimension of this type of fuse is 6×25 mm with conical ends. Bosch type fuses usually use the same color-coding for the rated current. The DIN standard is 72581/1. The size of the fuse is: 6×25 mm.
Color coding[edit]
Color   Current rating
 Yellow   5 A
 White   8 A
 Red or
 Green   16 A
 Blue           25 A
 Grey or
 Black   40 A

Robin.

Black can be 8 or 16 too!!

Most I have seen are moulded with rating in small chars on reverse. Need a magnifyer if long sighted....

Thanks Tim,

Just looked again, ( I knew I wasn't with it this morning ::)) and the blue fuse has 25 A stamped on the metal strip?
What do you reckon it would be safe to use for the horns as a temporary measure, my fuse holder has always had a white fuse in this position which at 8a seems a bit low, this is the one I've started blowing, but as the weather hasn't been good I haven't been able to get out and check connections etc.

Brian
8227 8)

Reminds me of a story I read on the "Darwin Awards" about an American country boy who had a pick up that kept blowing a fuse. So he ended up using a rifle cartridge instead. Needless to say that blew too.

If a fuse blows there's a reason and I wouldn't use anything bigger in the circuit than originally intended. You may have a weak link in the chain that's weaker than the fuse and that might result in the smoke escaping. Unlike Lucas wiring Magnetti Marelli don't supply aftermarket smoke so you'd have a real problem  ;D

If it's blowing I think you need to find out why. Try replacing sections of wire between the fuse, connectors, horn etc until you identify which part is causing the problem?

Guy

Measure resistance?

David

Thanks Guy,
It's just that I wasn't sure what should be there in the first place ???
I've just got out my handbook that states " Nine fuses 15A protect the various circuits, as indicated on the cover of the fuse box".
Beggars the question 15A fuses? as this value doesn't seem to be available, nearest being the red 16A, I shall have to have a look, real faf of a job on Berlina as it's behind the switch panel in the centre of the dash, unlike coupes.
I have a spare in my loft so I think I'll get that down and see what fuses that has in it.

Brian
8227 8)

I would fit a 16A all through the fuse bay. Higher ones are generally in separate fuse holders...

Fanalone runs happily on red 16A fuses.

Robin.

Thank you Gentlemen, I'll try 16A fuses throughout.
Very interesting as I've been checking out my spare fuse box and found that 8 circuits were fitted with white 8A fuses, while the 9th the horn circuit in question has a 25A blue fuse fitted, this circuit has about the heaviest cable (Red) that goes to the Ignition Switch; I just wonder why my spare fuse box and the one in "Fay" have a preponderance of 8A fuses fitted???
Another interesting point but probably a useless observation is that the Blue fuse I have with the rating on the strip seems to be a more modern version, and it's length is 26mm, whereas the blue fuse with the rating moulded into the ceramic body, seems to be more like 24.5mm rather than 25mm.


Brian
8227 8)

S1 Instruction Book states;  " Nine fuses (15A) protect the various circuits"

Robin.

The horns always take a lot of current. In fact, if one wishes to know the battery condition, a blip on the horn is a quick method to discover a weak battery if the sound is poor. Andrea

Nice day today so I pulled the switch panel and replaced the fuse in question with a 16A fuse, everything apart from 1 door edge warning light, but as the interior light on the same part of the circuit works it's probably a bulb.
I also looked at my engine compartment light that isn't working, a quick check with a probe established that there was power to the bulb holder and the probe light also lit on the other side of the bulb holder, even though the festoon bulb itself didn't light up, visually the bulb element was intact, so why doesn't the bulb light up?
Brian
8227 8)

I just changed a bulb in the everyday car that looked fine but didn't work.  I spent a grumpy couple of minutes thinking it was the holder or a wire before doing the obvious test.

All we can say is "it happens"...and ensure it goes straight in the bin rather than getting confused with the spares.

Got a known good bulb to test with?  Tested that bulb with a couple of wires direct to the battery?

David

Thanks David,
I'll give it a try.

Brian
8227 8)

What added to my confusion is that this bulb went the day after I replaced another in the same cluster - so I was looking to blame something I'd done disturbing it - but it really had died...

David

I think every one has wasted a few hours on this type of thing. The worst is when you fit a brand new part and still have the same problem.................then it turns out the new part is faulty too. Results in a wasted weekend you'll never get back!

team, i'm resurrecting this thread.

I've just had someone uninstall (and reinstall) a geabox for me in my white GT. Now I'm constantly blowing the fuse second from the left as soon as the fuse is powered from the ignition switch.

now three things typically electrically disconnected/reconnected with the gearbox removal; reverse switch (disconnecting this doesn't fix the issue), an earth bolted to the bellhousing (checked and still good) and starter motor (not yet checked but is working fine).

I'm not ruling out something else having been played with.

Can anyone comment on what that fuse has on its circuit?

Car still starts and runs, but many electrical components (indicators, non electrical guages), dash operated electrics i.e. wiper (although headlight works)

Wiring diagrams on the technical info thread may help.

followed the yellow wire row...

from the fuse down to the flasher, and then from the flasher to the stop light switch which was shorting on the steering column shroud. Someone in the preceding 50 years decided to move the stop light switch on this car from the master cylinder to the pedal box.

Hi,

Over the years, I have made notes on the wiring of my Fulvia (S2 1600) and compared this with the factory wiring diagrams.  It contains a list of all the electrical items on each fuse and is very close to the Lancia standard. There should be a copy of my notes in the downloads section (called 'Lancia Fulvia wiring notes S2') but I can send you an updated version if you PM me.
 
The wiring on my UK car placed the inner driving lights on fuse 7 (avvis), along with the horns and radio (with optional electric aerial), so this would have been the most likely candidate for a 25A fuse.  However, unless all the wiring between this fuse and the battery is also rated for this current, its probably best to stick to 16A and risk a blown fuse, rather than a melted wire.  Another interesting feature (not clear if this is unusual) is that the live side of fuse 9 (spie acciens, on the left side of the fusebox) is at the top of the fuse and the load is attached to the bottom.  For all the others, the live side is at the bottom of the fuse and the loads are at the top.  No idea why.  I am using torpedo fuses with ceramic cores (from Frosts) in the hope that these will stop the plastic fusebox cover melting when fuses blow.

There are 2 additional, in-line, 8A fuses in my car.  One protects the radiator fan and is positioned at the fan.  The second is attached to the battery positive terminal in the engine bay and supplies the accessory charging bracket (used for a torch and other accessories) that is located under the dash on the RHS.  I have now used this circuit to power a couple of USB ports for phone and sat nav, discreetly located in the glovebox.

Glyn