Lancia Motor Club

Hello all
Tyres;
Series 1  Fulvia, semi competition , has been running 175/65 x14 and 175/70x14 old Colway soft rally tyres. These are finished and need replacement .[ about 3000 miles  a year , UK tours and events in Europe ] All ideas on suitable and available alternatives would be welcome please .

Heater
I have recently taken over sole ownership after 12 yrs joint ownership of this car. The heater has nice warm temperatures , in and out , but very tepid air being blown out . All thoughts along the lines of " try this first " would be a help please.
Thanks David

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/pirelli-cinturato

Weirdly they have 14x165 and 14x185 but not the 175.

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/michelin-xas

Michelin XAS in the 165, 175 and 185.

They also have a "find your car" facility with suggestions:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/lancia-fulvia

I thought of Vredestein as more of a budget option, but a very similar price as it happens:

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/165x14-vredestein-classic.html

There are some budget options there.

These are a popular historic "road going race tyre" but less choice in 14in than 15in.

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/historic/historic/cr6zz

I looked on Deemon Tweaks - lots of 14x175 and 14x165 but has to be 185 for "track day" tyres.

Fulvia heaters are famously feeble.

My S3 heater is incredibly powerful. 

Swop yours for mine ;)
Brian
8227 8)

Thank you for replies so far
kind regards

Please, the secret!!!

My Fulvia heaters are all more than acceptable in heat delivery. My Flavia heater is less so. If the car has not had adequate antifreeze treatment during its life it is likely the heater core is furred up. Mine have never been changed, and I am religious about keeping 35% antifreeze in my cars.

Tim
My heater has had a new core once, and the end tank plate repaired after it split, so the heater has been rebuilt twice with particular attention paid to sealing the airbox, and it's still bloody useless!
Brian
8227 8)

Ah Brian yours is a Berlina. Didnt they expect people who owned those to travel in fur coats and top hats?🤠

Tim, as the other member of the highly exclusive 2C Club, I would stress neither I or Brian own a  fur coat ! We do share equally inefficient heaters though!!

Our S1 Fulvia GTE heater is superb I am afraid. I can't tell you why as it has been very good ever since we acquired it and the very best of many S1s we have owned.
Chris

2C = Too cold???

Maybe the standard temperature 2c, can you fit second series coupe matrix?

No idea why my heater should work so well.
It uses a simple water valve and also two flaps in the heater box that direct either all or some of the air through the matrix. I guess the flaps give a but more control.
I suppose if the flaps aren't adjusted right this would reduce the amount of heat.
I do know the S2 & 3 heaters are better than on S1 cars.
Last winter I never needed to have the heater on full. Also it heats up really quickly from cold.

No, no problems on that score.
Brian
8227 8)

Refurbmishment of my 1600 HF just complete. Fitted Toyo Proxes 185/65/14 to cleaned  up wheels. Seem to work very well and don't look too modern.

Have replaced heater valve but still runs hot all the time.

Here is an explanation of the controls of a Series 1 Fulvia heater, which may (or may not) answer some of the questions :-

The blue knob wheel is connected to a flap on a vent in the scuttle and controls the amount of air entering the heater system.  Fully clockwise, the vent is closed and no air enters the heater.  Anti-clockwise the vent is fully open for maximum air.

The red knob wheel is connected to a flap over the leading face of the heater matrix.  Fully clockwise, the flap is against the heater matrix and prevents any air going through the (hot) core (if the water valve is open).  It is really an air temperature balance control.

The short lever works the water valve - forward: closed;  back: hot water valve open.  Touching the hoses would show if the temperature is the same on either side of the valve and on either side of the heater core.

The long lever obviously directs the air to the screen/vents or footwell.

As a radiator core can silt up in certain circumstances, similarly so can the heater core.

A final important point is to remember that the Series 1 system is designed to use a .25 bar radiator cap.  If you use a higher pressure cap, viz: Series 2 .5 bar, there is just a risk that the heater core may perforate.

Regards -

Many years ago (when the cars were a bit fresher) we used to check two things for heat:

First, we'd check if the engine water was hot enough. We'd put a big piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to raise the water temp. Never got too hot. Still do that today on other Lancias. 

And second, we'd check the rubber diaphragm at the heater valve. They sometimes need replacing, as they would swell up and constrict water flow.

Probably, by now, the heater cores might need cleaning out, as noted above.