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DavidHill
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« Reply #45 on: 27 July, 2022, 08:20:30 PM » |
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HI John,
yes the issue was there before...thats why I started the rebuild...and yes they bounce the same each side...all very frustrating! am concentrating on the steering box currently.
kind regards
David.
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LatheJon
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« Reply #46 on: 28 July, 2022, 11:32:07 AM » |
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Hi David,
Thanks I see it`s been ongoing.
If the "Kingpin" bushes are ok, you need the wheel on the ground to check , otherwise the axle drops down to an unworn part on the bushes.
and you have tightened the nuts on the Silentblocs in the straight ahead position (the rubber does the movement) and your steering box is ok any small movement of the steering wheel will move the road wheel, no slack. Hopefully no wobble.
At Harry`s (Farnham) he had a "Hunter" type wheel balancer see:-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx6z8a3RzH0 and any odd problems he would spin the road wheel up with this type machine, the wheel going round at 70mph put the willies up me at the time.
Maybe you could fabricate some bent bits of flat steel to go on 2 wheel nuts, then spin the wheel with an H/D electric drill/ air ratchet.
cheers
John
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LatheJon
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« Reply #47 on: 28 July, 2022, 11:40:37 AM » |
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well well, just looked on facebook market, someone is selling a churchill MK4 wheel balancer, same type harry had, for 400 quid in wellinborough.
John
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DavidHill
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« Reply #48 on: 29 July, 2022, 07:52:48 PM » |
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I got some expert help and managed to dismantle the steering box today. We found that the two bearings holding the worm drive (part numbers 48303 and 48384 in the picture) were worn - so they definitely need replacing - they were marked made in Italy RIV 4AO and made in Italy RIV 5AO...any ideas what that corresponds to if I am replacing with an SKF??
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DavidHill
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« Reply #49 on: 31 July, 2022, 11:09:02 AM » |
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Have been dvised by Noel that the bearing codes are 7204 and 7203...so they are on order now...
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DavidHill
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« Reply #50 on: 07 August, 2022, 01:08:04 PM » |
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An update on progress. I rebuilt the steering box during the week with new bearings from SKF...it went back together well (apart from lots of fiddling with the tiny roller bearings). Once together again the box then turned really smoothly with no signs of end float of wear. I then put it back on the car and took it for a quick test drive...same problem is still there...really bad wheel wobble!! Next plan is to take it to get a four wheel laser alignment check to see what the camber and caster is...I am now strongly suspecting the castor angle is wrong, as am running out of other ideas...
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GG
Megaposter
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« Reply #51 on: 07 August, 2022, 04:01:39 PM » |
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Marc Bondini found these little magnetic-attachment inclinometers, which he simply puts on the sliding pillar after leveling the car on the lift, and it tells the angle of the pillar (caster). You may need to run some more camber, if its a small number...
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Appia C10, Flavia 2000 coupe, Fulvia Fanalone
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DavidHill
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« Reply #52 on: 10 August, 2022, 08:25:51 PM » |
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i managed to get the Aprilia to my local specialist today and the measurements were as below:
Castor : LHS = -0.74degreees, RHS= -2.01degrees
- according to the data sheets it should be 0 degrees, so i now plan to put some shims in between the axle and the body at the axles attachment points to correct the castor.
Toe in was measured as LHS = -0.16degrees and RHS = +0.85degrees
the data sheet states it should be "parallel to 2mm; also stated as 6mm and 7mm" - any idea what that means?
Camber was LHS = +1.48degrees and RHS +0.98degrees
the data sheet states "17mm for 165x400 wheels" - any idea what that means in degrees?
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DavidHill
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« Reply #53 on: 28 September, 2022, 08:22:47 AM » |
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update on the front wheel violent wobble:
After a huge amount of time spent drilling out and then rethreading one of the axle bolts i managed to reset the castor to the correct 0 degrees and took the Aprilia for another test run...no real progress -still a severe front wheel shake/shimmy/wobble...i then noticed there was a very slight amount of movement between the output spline from the steering box and the steering arm...so i tightened the bolt on the steering arm a lot and stopped the movement. I then took the Aprilia for a run - and hey presto problem solved!!
so conclusion: with a severe steering wobble ensure: all steering bushes are new, rebuild steering box, rebuild sliding pillars, set toe in and castor correctly and tighten all bolts on steering arms - and problem should go!
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simonandjuliet
Permanent resident
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« Reply #54 on: 28 September, 2022, 08:26:18 AM » |
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Hallelujah !
Well done, I hope that the splines aren't worn, if they are let me know I have several new links or output shafts
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AmilcarCGS, ApriliaCabrio,S2Aprilia, 2xArdea c'cino,S4 Ardea, Appia c'cino, Appia f'cino,B20s4,R4 Sinpar, R4 Rodeo, 65 Moke, 3xR60 Tractor, 2xToselli 78, Moto Guzzi Ercole,LR Defender, Mini ALL4 JCW, Moto Guzzi Cardellino, Fulvia GT, RE Himalayan
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chriswgawne
Permanent resident
Posts: 2092
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« Reply #55 on: 29 September, 2022, 09:09:56 AM » |
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Well done David - your immense persistence paid off!
I wonder which of the various works you completed had the most significant positive effect?
Chris
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Chris Gawne
Mobile: 07778 216552
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DavidHill
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« Reply #56 on: 12 October, 2022, 02:37:37 PM » |
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Hi Chris, my guess is that the toe in and then removing all play from the steering were the main solutions...but due to the sequence i followed i will never be sure on how much the sliding pillars broken spring and blocked damper holes were also contributing!...oh well onwards to the rear of the car now...  |
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