Brake bleeding fulvias

[inthedark]

Tim,   << will there be one in 2008 >>  Yes, check Events 2008

'the colonel'

[Jai Sharma]

Hi,
Lots of useful stuff on this subject, from people with much more experience than my own few, no make that several, days grovelling on the floor hoping to find a way to get the air out.....
But just a couple of observations, firstly I too have had a master cylinder stick with the plunger in the body. Couldn't figure out why I couldn't get fluid pumped through....
This happened on two occasions, once when it was rebuilt with new seals and one seemed perhaps a bit larger than it might have been and seemed to cause the brass piston to stick.
The second was, if I recall correctly, on a car that was sitting for a long time, and I think the inactivity meant that the piston stuck when the pedal was pressed.
I do remember pounding around Castle Combe in my first Fulvia and the car weaving quite a lot under braking. The next day there was absolutely no brake pedal - it went to the floor. The seals had failed in the master cylinder.
On the fluid subject, I have never tried silicone, partly because I thought it must inevitably get mixed unless the system happened to be apart in any case. I can see that a system with conventional fluid will take moisture in if left for years, but does anyone know over what time span it becomes significant? I understand if the fluid is changed every couple of years it is fine, but it seems to me that it should take a long time for the water to enter the system and get through the system to a position, and in a concentration, that it can cause much corrosion. I have no idea, but am curious!
Thanks

[nistri]

New Fulvia master cylinder: I would advise inspecting it very carefully before fitting. One thing is to get the master cylinder body (with no plungers, seals etc) and it is straighforward to check it inside. A different thing is to get a fully assembled master cylinder: I have seen two (bought at swapmeets) which had been incorrectly fitted inside and produced very dodgy brakes. The best thing is to open it and check it out before fitting.

[lancialulu]

Furthe to Nistri's post On the fulvia master cylinder the cross sectional drawing in the series 2 concise repair shop manual shows three conventional lipped seals. My experiance with the repair kits is you only get 2 and an o ring replacing the middle one. This may account for some funny behaviour if not assembled right.

On using silicone, I can state that I only use it on a completely rebuilt (new seals all round) refurbished system with not trace of ordinary dot 4. I would not recommend anyone "mixing" the two by just trying to bleed thro...

Tim

[ColinMarr]

A cautionary tale - you don’t have to driving hard in order to experience brake fluid boiling! On two occasions with the Fulvia I have experienced that heart-stopping brake pedal to the floor feeling. Both of these were when driving at low speed. The cause was the same in both instances – sticking rear callipers holding one of the pads on and hence overheating. It was obvious that one wheel and disc was very hot when I got out to look, but was not easily detectable while driving.

If I were to do another total rebuild of a brake system I would like to use silicone, but I would want to be reassured about the suitability of it when used with say standard Fulvia seals.

Colin   

[lancialulu]

Interestingly my wife bless her drove my then 993 home with the handbrake on (warning light not working) at high speed/100 mile journey. Nothing detected but seriously warped rea disks afterwards - a complete rebuild. Moral - use porsche brake fluid!!

I would like to know if the replacement after market seals are made of modern/compatible materials?? I am sure they will be better than 40 years ago.

Tim