2000HF Starting

[Justin McArdle]

My 2000HF Coupe had been starting without any problems (especially after the purchase of a new Yuasa batter) but recently it has been problematic. The engine turns over for a prolonged period without firing. As per the manual I don't touch the accelerator when starting (this method used to work - the car usually starting on the fourth/fifth crank from a cold start). I can hear the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition. It almost feels like fuel starvation. Once finally started (may take 10 minutes with gaps between attempts) it runs fine and re-starts without any problems.
Any thoughts most welcome!
 

[alan284flavia]

 :)Tis was problem with my Flavia 2000, eventually found a poor earth to Lumenition after market ignition system. I would check for good spark initially. Sorry my fuel injection ceased many years ago with a Triumph 2.5PI, long deceased !

[Justin McArdle]

Hi Alan

I will check the ignition system. All was well prior to the oil change and I wonder if the mechanic knocked something when he was wrestling with the oil filter!

[Jay]

Sorry if I am teaching you suck eggs. If the car starts eventually especially after a number of cranks then it may not be the ignition, as they generally work or don’t work.

If the car is left for a couple of days/weeks then it sounds like initial fuel starvation with the carbs drying out.  I have always been told not touch the accelerator as Lancias can flood quite easy, especially if you have a barrel per cylinder. But as I don’t use the car that often, it could be a couple of weeks between trips, I turn the ignition/fuel pump on, and listen for the change of note when the fuel reaches the carbs (and there is back pressure), wait a big longer and give 3 long pumps to make sure the engine is nice and primed, then it starts on the button.

Otherwise it would take 4 or 5 attempts.          

[Justin McArdle]

Hi Julian and others. The problem seems to have resolved itself. Except I suspect it may have been a question of technique. The correct method would seem to be cranking the engine over 4 or 5 times and releasing rather than keep cranking for an extended period.

[DavidLaver]

I'm reminded of similar issues I blamed on all sorts of complexities.  An auto electrician made a house call and started at the battery and found the problem right there with poor connections. I since bought one of those reamers and a jar of vasoline. Perhaps there's a voltage drop turning it over such that letting go of the starter motor then gives the sparks a chance?  That could be the battery, the connection, joint to the leads, earthing.  Someone recently - I think a Strada Abarth - was telling me how critical the earthing was to getting his car started.

For others to comment on: Is this a case where electronic ign helps?  If it was the Abarth then that's electronic ignition, unless that module is voltage sensitive...

I think this was the tool:

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sealey-ak418-battery-post-terminal-cleaner-4-way-p53164#alts

These are new to me:

http://www.frost.co.uk/terminal-brush.html
http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-battery-terminal-protector-indicator-aerosol.html

I wish I could be more help with direct advice as to where to put the meter and what to look for as an acceptable or abnormal drop as the RAC man or auto electrician would from instinct.

David

[DavidLaver]

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5658