Inner sill replacement S2 Coupe

[GlynW]

The state of the floor looks familiar - mine was similarly holed.  I will attach some pictures and also the pattern for the inner sill section that I needed to make.  The section was inserted with a 2 inch offset between the joins on the horizontal and vertical surfaces to increase the strength of the join.

The full set of restoration photos are here: https://picasaweb.google.com/108300898161301588285/FulviaS21600HFRebuild

One of the critical problems is the state of the bulkhead in the footwells - this separates the inner and outer sills and is the major attachment point for the subframe mounting box so it needs to be solid.  If you need to replace it, consider removing the outer sills (which are readily available) and putting a plate between the inner and outer sills.  This will make the inner sill a sealed box, so it is much easier to keep moisture out and waxoyl in.

Glyn

[GlynW]

Sorry, two of the pictures did not attach properly. The inner sill pattern is also in the web album and looks fine there. If it is not visible I can rescan it - it shows how the sill is joined to the floor and outer sill.

I also have dimensions/cutting plans there to make the subframe mounting boxes and the boxes that support the A & B posts (hidden under the wings).  All the work was done by an amateur (me) but directed and assisted by a group of people that knew about cars (but not Lancias - The Workshop in Welwyn Garden City.  A professional bodyshop should have no problem (except cost).

Glyn

[nthomas1]

Thanks Glyn - those pictures are ever so helpful - especially the one showing the subframe mounting.
What did you do about the floor?  Did you replace with new panels, or did you weld in pieces?

[GlynW]

The worst of the rust on the floor was near the front bulkhead so I cut it out and tried to make some sections that matched the  groves on the remaining floor.  Not at all successful - hard to get a good match to the profile and the metal of the floor was too thin to get a good weld.  The result was something that had holes and could flex like a biscuit tin lid. 

In the end I bought a ready-made floor section - it was well made in good steel and fitted nicely around the gearbox tunnel and the sill.  I made a join about 2 inches in front of the cross member under the seat, making sure that my new floor panel was 'joggled' with a step that fitted under the existing floor.  That way the join faced towards the rear of the car, away from the direction of water thrown up from the road.  THe welding was much easier and the result is a very solid floor.  If you remove the drivers side floor though, just measure the position of the accelerator pedal first - you will need to drill holes in the right place to put it back (ask me how I know)!  There should be a picture of the finished floor in the album. The passenger side was fine and was not replaced.

I used a stick-on sound deadening to replace the water-absorbent matting that was used by Lancia (something like 'Silent Coat Black' sold by The Sound Deadening Shop).  Apply using a heat gun, mould to the panel and job done - looks great and this is 17 years later..

[nthomas1]

That's great information. Thanks Glyn.