E55 LBR the parallel project

[Kevinlincs]

Looking sharp, get out and bed those new wheels and tyres in! 

[lancianut666]

Managed to start the Y10 but it won't run below 2000rpm and keeps stalling unless the choke is out, at least it has moved under it's own power again. Took a plug out and it was very sooty and the gap is too big. I will give it some TLC tomorrow after I have had a play with the Appia engine.

[Kevinlincs]

Check for air leaks between the carb and engine, if there's a split in the vac pipe or the carb base gasket it will cause the issues

[lancianut666]

I was thinking air leaks as well it feels like the servo isn't working so something is amiss

[lancianut666]

Hi all
I had a good rummage around the carb but can't find any split pipes etc...The base of the carb seems to be attached directly to the manifold??? will have another look tomorrow. I cleaned the plugs and reset the gap. Fired the beast up but it still would try to stall so I turned in the throttle stop screw and it behaved a bit but it is still very lumpy.
Clarkey

[Kevinlincs]

Could also be as simple as dirt in the idle jet within the carb. To check to see if there is an air leak post throttle butterfly get a can of carb cleaner, or brake cleaner will do if you've no carb cleaner and spray around the manifold and carb base with the engine running, if air is being drawn in somewhere it will draw the cleaner on and the revs will rise up. If nothing happens then you've no leaks.

[frankxhv773t]

I think there ought to be a black spacer between the carb and the manifold. Checking for leaks in the normal way still applies though.

[lancianut666]

Hi all
Thanks for the tips! I did a bit of research last night and realise the carb is bolted on from the top so if I get chance today Appia engines allowing I will do the air leak check and possibly get the carb off and onto the bench. When I bought the car the seller said he had changed the carb as the original was causing problems so it has been off relatively recently. Good news on the engine was all the plugs were nice and dry no oiling and all the threads were OK.
Clarkey

[frankxhv773t]

It's simple enough to whip the carb off and rebuild kits aren't expensive so a rebfurb might be worth doing.

[fay66]

The heat insulator block usually has a gasket top and bottom, so worth checking the condition of these.
Brian
8227 

[lancianut666]

Hi all
Had a play today and manged about 10 laps of the site so not too bad. Bad news is it still won't pull at low revs and is cutting out and stalling if you lift off the throttle on a 2nd gear corner. It will rev when stationary but struggles to keep going when driving. I was wondering about the fuel pump it reminds me of one of my Hillman Imps that split the fuel pump diaphragm on the way home from work and limped about 5 miles to get back.
On the question of air leaks I pulled off the vacuum pipe from the carb to the distributor and the engine died so it would seem it is not leaking in air. Perhaps a check of the fuel pump's pumping performance and failing that a strip down of the carb.
Clarkey

[Kevinlincs]

That has confirmed then that you probably don't have an air leak.
I'd look into the carb having a blocked idle jet as the next step. No need to worry about a rebuild kit at this stage, just take the carb off and take it apart on the bench and remove the jets to clean then. A can of carb cleaner is all you need.
You can do it on the car but a dropped screw down the venturi on the bench doesn't have the same issues as if still on the car..

[neil-yaj396]

Soaking the jets in paint solvent worked wonders for me.

[mikeC]

Your symptoms are remarkably similar to those on my Appia after it had been laid up for eighteen months. The cause turned out to be stale petrol; the cure was new spark plugs! It would appear that using full choke had glazed the plugs with a varnish which is not easily removable. Tim Green at the Green Spark Plug co suggested that using over cleaner on the plugs might provide a temporary cure, but long term the best solution was new plugs.
Try starting the car on the old plugs, and once up to temperature so that choke is no longer needed, swap for new plugs and try your run round the units.

[lancianut666]

Hi all
Just a bit more on the rough/poor running. Changed the plugs and leads and the car revs better but won't tickover so this had my little brain cells tingling as many years ago I had a brand new Y10 Fila that had similar problems and a 1.6 Prisma that conked out on the way to UEA for an open university course restarted after a bit of poking around on the side of the road then refused to start for a week till I noticed the idle cut off solenoid was loose and was not earthing so would not operate. Hmmm...so out it came an sure enough it was an intermittent to none operating solenoid so a new one was ordered from Webcon and we will see what transpires with a new one fitted.
Clarkey