Timing chain / cam removal

[JohnMillham]

Oilway to the head.

[DavidLaver]

The one I was interested in is at the foot of the stud in the very middle of the block.  I can only guess it is some sort of water drain - and hope it is supposed to be there.

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Alas no space to upload progress pictures - but cam wear is really horrible and followers likewise.  Lots of sludge in the cam and the rocker shafts and oil feed holes blocked.  The Auto-Strainer is proven to be insufficient...  Then again not changing oil and conventional filters will do the same in the end.   Sorting through the spares found a usable cam, and likely to be able to make up a decent set of rockers.

Cam was seized.  Soaking for a week didn't do it so it was a wooden drift and a rubber mallet - just the one light tap did it so "only just" seized.  Bearing surfaces fine.  Lots of the rockers still seized.  What's the trick for removing a pillar from the end of the shaft?   I expect its best leaving the middle pillar alone so as not to mess up the oil feed alignement.

Another "odd" problem was that the bush on the cam tensioner arm had slipped so the oil feed up the arm to the tensioner sprocket was blocked.  Again got good spares so all not lost.

Manifolds came off REALLY easily.  Exhaust gasget cleaned up nicely.  One of the exhaust studs sheared way back when.   With one of the rocker pillars that's only two to do. 

Am looking forward to removing the sump.  Its like exploring the pyramids - will it be treasure or so much scrap and cobwebs?

Any tips on seperation of rods from crank without seperation of white metal from rods?

David

[davidwheeler]

I have recently had new rods made for my Aprilia engine via Reg and very nice they are too BUT they are each 200g heavier than the originals.  This makes a huge difference to the balance of the engine which, in a narrow V4, is very difficult to calculate (I think there is something on the Lambda thread from Oz about the vector mathematics of this).  I took the assembled engine (without the rings fitted but included with the engine for weighing) to Vibration Free who put it on their rig and balanced it.  This entailed making a number of big holes in the flywheel and the addition of a substantial weight on the crank pulley.  It took them some 40 hours (of which they only charged me 20!!!) but now they know what to do so in future it should be a lot easier for them.  They said when they first put it on the rig and ran it up to 200 rpm it nearly jumped off so it would have been unusable if I had simply slung it together and bunged it in!

[DavidLaver]

Just trying to remind myself what and when I was doing - four years has slipped past fast...

David

[lancialulu]

David/all

I am interested in fitting a more modern oil filter to OVS. Any options??


My autoclean Semundat filter is wired off and not operated by the clutch and advice from martin Cliffe is not to touch it but to have regular oil changes (which i am happy to do).

I have tried to remove said vane filter to clean it but it is stuck in the block. I was thinking of removing all 4 studs but one is difficult to get to so I didnt bother. Any ideas of how to lift off??

Tim

[DavidLaver]

I started a new thread for the "modern filter" and "stuck cleaner" for Tim.

David

[davidwheeler]

If you do find holes in the bottom of your block, may I suggest Sylmasta titanium.  It works on Lambdas including the top face of the block and is water resistant and takes temperatures up to 260C.

http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/copy_of_Epoxy_Putty_Stick.html