I finally have a Fulvia!

[IanC]

Apologies, when I said plastic spacer I meant insulator

[lancialulu]

S1 has a thin plastic type spacer. S2 has a finned alloy spacer that doubles as alternator fixing point.

It seems a PO has already tried a longer rod to compensate for cam wear. Once a cam wears through its hardened surface it really is only fit for the bin.

[IanC]

Thank you for clarifying this.  It looks like you should be able to change the cam though as it’s held on by an Allen headed bolt.  As no-one has mentioned this I assume it’s not an option then?  So I have no choice but to go for an electric pump?

[lancialulu]

As I said there is no part number for the cam alone. I think the allen keyway may be to assist installation. If you try to remove (pull out) in situ there is a shim washer under the worm drive that could fall off into the engine.

[Wangler]

Thank you for clarifying this.  It looks like you should be able to change the cam though as it’s held on by an Allen headed bolt.  As no-one has mentioned this I assume it’s not an option then?  So I have no choice but to go for an electric pump?

An electric pump is a good addition so long as you get a good make. Fulvias tend to need a lot or churning before they start if they've been left standing for a few days. I've never got to the bottom of why this is, it wasn't a problem with the one I had back in the 1970s.

Facet seems to be the favourite, used by the top guys,  although inevitably they're expensive compared to the ones on Ebay and similar. You might need to get a pressure regulator, Omicron should be able to advise and supply.

[davidwheeler]

I have fitted Facet and Filter King with excellent results.

[IanC]

As I said there is no part number for the cam alone. I think the allen keyway may be to assist installation. If you try to remove (pull out) in situ there is a shim washer under the worm drive that could fall off into the engine.

Thank you again for clarifying.  I received an original Lancia drawing from Robert with useful dimensions relating to the actuator and its engagement with the pump.  The drawing suggests that if you are struggling to achieve the dimension then you should machine the spacer to suit.  I’m going to give this a go as it was my original thought and clearly something the factory allowed.  I’m still not clear on why this issue exists because the cam face does bot look work.  All I need to do now is work out how much to reduce it by.

[IanC]

Thank you also for comments on the Facet fuel pump, although it’s a shame to have to fit a pressure regulator as well.  I will look at options if I exhaust the possibility of getting the current arrangement to work. 

[Wangler]

Regarding your petrol tank, mine started leaking at the top. Presumably due to condensation after the car hadn't been used for a number of years.

No problem I thought, I'll just put a petrol proof patch on it. It worked, but within a very short time I found another leak on the top and then another and another ad nauseam! No real alternative but to buy a new one which came from Autobella with a very long guarantee. The old one had also lost a small piece of degraded hard plastic that was used, ironically, inside the tank's coarse brass fuel filter. This had earlier caused fuel starvation when it got sucked into the fuel line, partly blocking it.

The fuel tank was quite easy to fit, although one of the many fixing holes wasn't quite in the same position and the original filler pipe cap has to be de-soldered and re-soldered with a blow torch. You will need a new gasket for the filler pipe/tank connection and possibly a new brass nut if you have a plastic one as it will probably break when you undo it.

I honestly don't think it's worth messing around with a Fulvia fuel tank by trying to repair it. Knowing that you have a good, safe, clean fuel supply for your engine is very important.

[IanC]

Thank you for your thoughts and advice.  The new fuel tank seemed an obvious solution due to the amount of rust inside.  I’m not sure what was actually holding it together to be honest.  I did have to cut the plastic nut holding the filler neck to the tank as it wouldn’t move. I was surprised to find that the new brass nut wouldn’t go onto the neck without de-soldering the filler cap end of the neck and removing it.  I can solder so it’s not difficult.

I have just finished rebuilding the master cylinder internals which were far more complex than expected.  Beautifully engineered though.  I’ve attached a picture of the constituent parts and if you look closely you should be able to see multiple sets of radial holes to enable flow. 

[Wangler]

Looks easy to make a mistake when it's reassembled! I find my phone camera absolutely invaluable whenever I do a job on the car that I'm not familiar with. A boroscope/endoscope is also really useful for all sorts of jobs, especially when looking into areas where one otherwise requires the flexibility of a snake!

[IanC]

Well I hope I have it all in the right order otherwise it won’t work…..looking forward to testing this!

[IanC]

A quick question for those that have fitted a new fuel tank, is there some sort of seal that sits between the tank and the lip, a foam seal maybe?  There wasn’t one when I removed the old tank and to be honest it looked like it had never been removed, the paint was absolutely pristine around the lip.  Any other comments and advice welcomed such as what protective coating you used on the outside of the tank.

Thank you
Ian

[nistri]

No seal at all, I protect the joint between the chassis and the tank by spraying it with waxoyl, Andrea

[Wangler]

No seal on mine, though it's probably a good thing to put something there. Maybe a silicone bead? I guess it's unlikely that you'll ever have to remove a new tank.