I finally have a Fulvia!

[IanC]

I forgot to say I’m slightly wary of applying too much force in trying to remove the rod in case I end up with bits of broken burred metal circulating in the engine. 

[lancialulu]

Ian If you can draw it out by force you can take the cap off the drive housing remove the drive and use a magnet etc to clean up any swarf. The challenge is to make an extraction tool. Is it Series 2?

[IanC]

Thank you, yes it’s a series 2.

[lancialulu]

Thank you, yes it’s a series 2.

I assume you can remove the alternator spacer block off the fuel pump mounting studs?

[IanC]

Yes, the spacer block comes off without a problem.  I assume this is a good thing but it doesn’t appear to help in getting the rod out

[IanC]

Well, after a break (yes, I know, it’s ten months since I last did anything) due to many distractions it’s time for an update or two.  To make it easier to digest I will try to address each topic by itself giving time for comments.
Brakes
Last month I finally finished off the brake calliper rebuild after fighting with those bl**dy metal rings that hold the boots on for a while.  Everything has gone back together quite well, although I wish that I had noted which side the short hard lines from the callipers go.  I’ve also fitted a full set of new flexi pipes.  Two questions/requests for help here if I may;

When I come to bleed the brakes is there a particular order for the front ones, bottom pistons first or top etc?  Or because they are separate it doesn’t matter?

Second, the master cylinder may have a seep/weep so I should probably give it a clean up and quick rebuild as the kits are available and inexpensive.  Apart from bench bleeding before refitting is there anything special to note about the MC?

Thank you again

[IanC]

The second topic is around the fuel system.  After trying to sort the car last year I found that the fuel pump was not working and also that the actuating rod was burred and stuck in the housing.  You gave some useful advice, thank you, and I have managed to extract the rod, I also have a new fuel pump from Omicron.

Having looked at the stroke of the rod (ie how much it moves back and forth when you turn the ignition) I'm not sure there is sufficient movement to make the pump work. Which means that the rod is too short or the cam that moves it is worn.  The cam doesn’t look worn but I don’t have any measurements to determine the correct size of it.  The rod is 87.60mm long and at the cam end is worn to a curved surface.  Having looked for a new rod the longest I can find for this car is 85.30mm, which is obviously shorter than the one fitted, about which I have suspicions anyway.  So in my mind if the correct length of the rod for this engine is 85.3 then the cam must be worn.  Does this make sense and if so can anyone help with cam measurements.  I will attaché a picture of the cam and rod.

Second, after trying to get fuel through to the pump it became obvious that something was amiss at the tank end, quite a lot of rust came through the pipe which thankfully was not attached to the pump (I used a vacuum gun to draw the fuel through).  I first removed the sender to look inside and saw some horrors, as well as the sender being rusted solid (picture below).  Despite looking perfectly sound from the outside the inside is rusted behind recovery, the sender too (the long haired bank manager is now frowning…).  I then removed the drain plug to find the screen totally blocked with jelly-like fuel remnants.  Two questions if I may;
I assume (dangerous…) that due to volumes there’s only one manufacturer of fuel tanks and the variability in pricing is down to individual business margins.  Are they the same tanks or is there something else I should know about buying new?  Thank you
Second, if you have bought a new one what have you treated the outside with, anything you can recommend such as Wurth Stonechip?

Thank you again for any advice, comments and recommendations.  I will get it running this year.

[IanC]

Apologies, forgot to add the pictures

[IanC]

And more

[nthomas1]

Re brake bleeding of the front calipers, on my RHD car I bled the left front lower first, then the right lower.  Then I bled left upper followed by right upper.  With the master cylinder on the right of my car that means I started furthest away. If your MC is on the left you should reverse this sequence. I used the traditional bleeding method.

I documented my approach which you can find if you search here on the forum for "brake bleeding problems - possibly master cylinder".

That same post gives step by step approach for master cylinder overhaul on the S2.

Re fuel tanks, I think the Fulvia Coupe tank is unique and not shared with other Manufacturers.  They seem to be readily available, but in the £600 to £700 range I think, with tax and shipping.   I had mine split and overhauled using the Renew process - for about £300.  That was three or four years ago and I've  been happy with the result. My thread "Slow S2 rebuild", also here on the forum,  covered the fuel tank and related issues.  There's an index on page 51.  It might prove helpful.

[lancialulu]

I can confirm the push rod should be 85.3mm. I could possibly source a good oil pump/ fuel pump drive shaft but you may have to take the front pulley off and extract the worm drive, also possibly the oil pump. Pragmatic solution is to fit a Facet silver top and Filter King regulator. PM me if you want a shaft...

Re bleeding, the the small front calipers are on same circuit as rears and I always get the rears bled first (its a slow process). If your master cylinder is weeping you need to carefully check the the bore for corrosion when you have stripped it down. Check first before buying a kit!

[IanC]

Really useful, thank you both.  So I am now clear on bleeding and the tank, less so on the actuator.  I have to assume the cam is worn then.  In the photo it looks like you can replace it, there’s an Allen key bolt holding it on.  Does anyone have any clue about what size these cams should be originally and whether replacements are available!  Or does anyone have a spare anywhere?

Thank you again
Ian

[lancialulu]

I have never seen a separate cam just the shaft as confirmed by the parts book - no separate cam listed.

[chriswgawne]

I have never come across a worn fuel pump lobe.......but could you be using thick gaskets? This would reduce the ability of the mechanical fuel pump to deliver enough fuel. Also is the plastic insulator the correct one.  Just a thought.
Chris

[IanC]

Thank you Chris.  I just used the paper gaskets supplied with the new pump, they didn’t seem overly thick.  You mention a plastic spacer.  I assume you mean the one through which the rod goes?  If so mine is not plastic, it’s an alloy casting with fins.  I did think that if the cam was worn for whatever reason I could get an 85.30mm rod and have some material milled from the alloy spacer to enable the rod and (assumed) worn cam to work together and pump fuel via the new pump.  It may just be easier to get an electric pump as has already been mentioned.