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Michael Tryton
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« on: 09 July, 2019, 12:51:52 PM » |
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Having consulted about this unfortunate condition on here, I decided a new seal kit was cheaper than buying a complete master cylinder, and eventually applied myself to these works.
Having read all the various threads on here about Fulvia brakes but found, like The Curate's Egg, that they're only "good in parts...." and all a bit bitty (particularly in how vague some descriptions of crucial elements in these processes really were) I thought I'd take some photos to show this job as more of a continuum.
I've also tried to conflate lots of relevant snippets of various good people's wise advice, currently unfortunately lost amongst many threads or pages of chat, so they're useful to more folk than me.
How well I executed that process is a different question, but I believed it might help others in the same predicament as mine to see it done in photographic form, hence this new thread.
Like 'Game of Thrones' and all great epics, expect blood and tragedy in tantalising instalments, all following on shortly, and starting with what we started with:
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:30:08 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #1 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:08:53 PM » |
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The idea of photographing these components is of course to help ensure you reassemble and reinstall them correctly.
After jacking up the car on axle stands (with the back slightly higher than the front) I removed all four road wheels to give better access to the bleed nipples on the brake calipers.
The master cylinder and each caliper were each drained, before removing the master cylinder (M/C) from the servo unit by detaching the two brake line connectors and two 13mm nuts holding it onto the servo:
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:43:02 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #2 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:13:37 PM » |
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Uploading on here only seems to work one photo at a time, otherwise it times-out, so here's a few photos about this stage in the dismantling process, which speak for themselves:
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:37:02 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #3 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:15:48 PM » |
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Next, the M/C is removed from servo:
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #4 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:16:57 PM » |
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The servo, with domed nut of the operating rod which forces a larger piston into the master cylinder, visible in the centre:
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:32:28 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #5 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:18:18 PM » |
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And here's the M/C, with its protruding piston, released...
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:32:55 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #6 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:21:04 PM » |
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And inspected before gradually being taken apart:
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #7 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:22:20 PM » |
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Here's the servo end of the M/C:
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #8 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:23:15 PM » |
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Thought it worth measuring piston extension 'as found' to replicate when reassembling:
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #9 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:25:21 PM » |
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Photographing internal components, so don't forget how they go back:
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #10 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:26:03 PM » |
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And again - these are the two upturned 'buckets' which sit in the first chamber:
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:34:08 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #11 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:28:41 PM » |
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You may be wondering why I put M/C back onto car at this point in proceedings - well, it was all about getting enough leverage on that monstrous 32mm nut at the end, the one with a big internal spring hidden behind it.
(It really didn't want to come undone....)
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:43:22 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #12 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:29:48 PM » |
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And this what was left lurking inside after it had.....
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #13 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:31:48 PM » |
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And, crucially, THIS IS WHAT YOU GET OUT.
SHOWN IN ORDER OF PARTS - brass-coloured piston at back being of course what goes into the servo unit.
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« Last Edit: 09 July, 2019, 02:10:15 PM by Michael Tryton »
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Michael Tryton
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« Reply #14 on: 09 July, 2019, 01:33:46 PM » |
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With the 32mm end-cap shown, it's crucial to replace the springs in their correct order - one is slightly shorter than the other:
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