Sebastien
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« Reply #105 on: 07 May, 2020, 08:16:53 AM » |
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Hello Koen,
I found some relevant pictures of my Lambda, when it was rewired, and the copper tube replaced. I confirm that on my 7th Series the tube is flattened. I think otherwise it is not possible to mount the radiator.
Hope this helps.
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Dikappa
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Posts: 559
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« Reply #106 on: 07 May, 2020, 12:06:32 PM » |
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Thanks for the pictures Sebastien! It looks as if your original tube received some extra flattening over the years!
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« Last Edit: 07 May, 2020, 03:06:22 PM by Dikappa »
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Dikappa
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Posts: 559
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« Reply #107 on: 08 May, 2020, 04:30:19 PM » |
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@sebastien: do you know whether there should be any holes in the bottom of the copper tube to drain water out that might get in?
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Sebastien
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Posts: 562
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« Reply #108 on: 08 May, 2020, 06:22:30 PM » |
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Koen,
As I understand it, the copper tube is there to protect the electrical wires that run through it from humidity. Being in the front of the Lambda, and also around the radiator, there must be NO hole in that copper tube, especially at the bottom, allowing water to enter (or to exit!).
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davidwheeler
Permanent resident
Posts: 1487
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« Reply #109 on: 08 May, 2020, 08:32:10 PM » |
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I was looking at the wrong tube! Neither of my cars has one anyway.
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David Wheeler. Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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Dikappa
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Posts: 559
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« Reply #110 on: 12 May, 2020, 07:46:33 PM » |
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The past days I invested a lot of time in 'small stuff'... I made the 'container' for the added electrics under the dashboard, and decided it would be best to have the same sort of metal cable ducts as in the rest of the car. So I spend quite a few hours testing/measuring and finally fitting under the dashboard, something my long self obviously was not designed for.....
The square box pivots on the most upfront side and fals open, to give acces to the internals, as there will also be quite a few added fuses there, every outgoing cable will have its own fuse.
I then finished the rest of the ducts, made all necessary holes for glands, spot welded in reinforcements for the screws etc.
Unbelievable how much time goes into 'little' jobs like this....
Finally today alo made a bracjket for the ignition coil (against the side of the engin bay, a bit out of sight) and the brake light switch. The brake light switch is not an original Carello iten, haven't succeeded in finding that yet, but found a nice NOS bakelite item which fits the car I think....
Al the stuff is now out of the car again for painting...
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Dikappa
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Posts: 559
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« Reply #111 on: 16 May, 2020, 04:35:17 PM » |
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How to spend a full day on something no one will ever see....(except if someone decides to steal my radiator....)
First thought the tube bending would go better when filled with water under pressure, but that was a miss. Luckily no harm was done to the already flattened tube, so I filled it up with dry sand in place and the bending went OK.
This afternoon I made the 'angle' pieces out of 1mm copper plate, had to make a steel template first to hammer the curves in place. Same template was used to make the copper brackets to fix the tube. I feel the biggest challenge will be to get the wiring inside the tube, with one extra wire for the direction indicators. It sure will be a tight fit!
Also the oval tube for the soft roof support arrived, it looks the part! It think it will be best to fill that one with sand too before attempting to roll it into shape, as it doesn't seem very coöperative.
Tomorrow I plan to pack up the instruments to send them to the man who will check rev counter and speedo, and will make new cappilary leads on the oil and water temp meters. (non original but very nice Prelac items)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #112 on: 16 May, 2020, 06:45:05 PM » |
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Filling the tube with sand is the traditional approach as used by the old school specialist exhaust builders.
As to no one ever seeing it, in 50 years time someone will uncover it and marvel at your craftsmanship. Your reward is in posterity.
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DavidLaver
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Posts: 4388
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« Reply #113 on: 17 May, 2020, 01:13:27 PM » |
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I like that hammer form, and forming. Lovely.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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Dikappa
Megaposter
Posts: 559
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« Reply #114 on: 24 May, 2020, 03:41:42 PM » |
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More hammering today!
The final 'big' job that I want do do on the body is fitting a reinforcement for the radiator surround. But, without lowering the fan space below the top radiator connection is very limited.
I considered using a 7th series fan carrier, but in the end decided to slightly modify the 8th series fan bracket, to allow it being a bit lower.
As space is very limited I think the only good solution is to drill out the original reinforcement, which is rivetted in so could be replaced, and make a new, stonger plate to fit in it's place.
I feel only a plate will quite easily flex, seen it is under pressure load, so I wanted it to have an angle to give it more strenght. As the fan is very (very very) close to the radiator, the angle needs to be out of the way of the fan...
So quite a bit of drawing and testing with cardboard before I could transfer the drawing to a 3mm thick steel plate. I did not want to weld in the angled piece seen it would be very difficult to clean up the weld on the inside corner, which is the one in sight. So a special tool had to be made for the Pullmax machine to stamp the angle in. It worked wel although for the finishing touch the good old hammer had to come in....
All ended up reasonably flat to my surprise!
Question now is whether to drill extra holes (where the hole saw and the rings are in the pic's,) to allow for more airflow through the radiator at the penalty of loss of strenght....
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #115 on: 24 May, 2020, 03:50:42 PM » |
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Lovely job again.
That looks so sturdy I doubt some holes like that would take much strength out.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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davidwheeler
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Posts: 1487
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« Reply #116 on: 25 May, 2020, 06:14:12 PM » |
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With a good core the radiator provides too much cooling so I don't think extra holes are necessary.
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David Wheeler. Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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Dikappa
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Posts: 559
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« Reply #117 on: 26 May, 2020, 07:23:01 AM » |
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Maybe I'll leave the holes for now, they could always be added later, but indeed I doubt the cooling will be insufficient. For me it would more be an optical thing, to give it a more finished and racy look.....
Yesterday I drilled out the original reinforcement, so that I could fit the new plate. It is slightly less wide than the original, which is a really tight fit on the sides of the frame. I had to cut/grind away exactly 3mm at each side, as otherwise it would be impossible to get the now ridgid plate inside the original frame. This 3mm I will fill out with side plates with an angle piece welded on that also bolt on on the subframe bolts.
That way the tight fit will be sort of 'restored'
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Sebastien
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Posts: 562
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« Reply #118 on: 26 May, 2020, 08:14:52 AM » |
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Very nice work on that reinforcement - Complimenti!
I intend to do the same type of reinforcement to my Lambda to avoid having my radiator leak again - your work is a good example of how to do it right!
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davidwheeler
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Posts: 1487
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« Reply #119 on: 26 May, 2020, 09:42:40 AM » |
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When I rebuilt the front of my V!!th Lambda I made a new frame altogether from a piece of box section steel that I spllit in half with my Evolution Rage saw (an amazing tool, cuts anything) The gauge of the steel is thicker than the original and the result is much stronger. The original actually caved in at the sides from the pressure of the diagonal suspension bars.
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David Wheeler. Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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