Y10 FIRE LX

[DavidLaver]

Grinder out - I'm happy now.

[frankxhv773t]

I live by Jenolite, either that or Kurust, but always the version you can paint over. It seems daft to me to convert rust with something you then wash off making the metal wet again. I generally follow it up with a rustproof primer as a belt and braces approach. The corner where you have welded is visible when the bonnet is open so it would look nice painted back in body colour. I have never experienced rust there so once everything is properly fixed it shouldn't be a problem again.

[Kevinlincs]

First time using Jenolite, used Kurust before with decent results.
Agree that making bare metal then making wet seems madness!
Incidentally Jenolite is now available from Wilco stores at a much better price than direct from their website..

[Kevinlincs]

In the end I just put a layer of seam sealer on, the raised parts where the plastic battery tray will sit, that will provide a better quality of protection.
Gave it a couple of days to dry off and the solvent to evaporate so sprayed it this afternoon. Just with an aerosol as car is at home, basecoat and lacquer so a few more layers of each should provide a good covering.

[Kevinlincs]

3 shades so went for standard, hopefully it'll dull down a little and the old paint polish up a bit

[simonandjuliet]

So long as it doesn't rust again ...

[frankxhv773t]

It's a mystery why it rusted there in the first place as I have never seen such a problem before and all the Y10s I have been familiar with have lived permanently outdoors.

[Kevinlincs]

Only thing I can think of is that it may have been parked outside for a number of years but on an uphill slope so that water puddled and couldn't run away. Couple that with some dirt or leaves and it would be enough to cause rot.

The other issue which I've yet to solve could well also be contributory. The alternator is overcharging the battery, stubbornly it is almost 16volts despite my efforts to lower it to the required 13.8v to 14.5v. I fitted a new voltage regulator which made no odds, tried a second different brand to make sure of a functioning item as the first was a cheap ebay item, both produced the same results. Tried it with a different battery just to be sure, same result.
I will change the whole alternator now, hopefully that will produce an acceptable charge level. Maybe you have a good spare to sell Frank?
It's not unreasonable to assume that it could have been like that for some time, no battery charge warning light on so would remain unnoticed apart from getting through a few batteries and I only noticed as I checked the charge rate amongst a few checks I did, so it's entirely plausible that with the battery getting overcharged it would spill the corrosive acid out through the vent hole and down onto the battery tray, attacking the paintwork under the tray.
All the more plausible if Frank says it's not a known weak spot, you'd expect other cars to have suffered with rot there if it was a bit of a water trap given Franks' knowledge on the Y10 I'm confident that the charging issue is more likely.

[DavidLaver]

Interesting how a regulator might cause rot.

[frankxhv773t]

I'm sure I can find you an alternator when the current panic is over. Battery acid spillage is a possibility. They have a really good plastic battery tray with a drain pipe that goes down the front bulkhead and past the steering rack but then a chunk of the bund wall is usually cut out to accommodate the clamp which defeats the point.

[Kevinlincs]

The battery spillage of sulphuric acid seems more likely now I've heard the corner isn't a known weak point. If you've ever had a battery on charge the vapors easily make the top damp, with the constant overcharging it's not unreasonable to imagine the odd drip or even the extra fumes coming through.

I may also be in the market for a drivers door too Frank unless I can get mine straightened out better. It has been twisted at some point, the fit isn't great. I'll see if I can get it better aligned but replacement may be in order.
The fit to the rear quarter is awful but great to the wing, like the door has twisted evidenced by paint stress marks on the door inner.

[fay66]

The battery spillage of sulphuric acid seems more likely now I've heard the corner isn't a known weak point. If you've ever had a battery on charge the vapors easily make the top damp, with the constant overcharging it's not unreasonable to imagine the odd drip or even the extra fumes coming through.

I may also be in the market for a drivers door too Frank unless I can get mine straightened out better. It has been twisted at some point, the fit isn't great. I'll see if I can get it better aligned but replacement may be in order.
The fit to the rear quarter is awful but great to the wing, like the door has twisted evidenced by paint stress marks on the door inner.

My first 1986 Y10 Fire, had rust there but not a serious as this.
But my 1989 Y10 Gtie was fine.
Brian
8227 

[Kevinlincs]

Colour match not so important now you can hardly see the repair!

[Kevinlincs]

Stripped the seats out of the car today so I can peel back the carpets ready to start welding the sills, with the interior being do nice it's far too risky to have a spark or flame licking at it.
Despite having had a leaky scuttle the front floor looks remarkably good.

[Kevinlincs]

As does the rear section.
Also with the carpet and soundproofing out of the way it's far easier to keep things in check, and if I need to weld the floor inner side of the sill edge then that's easy now.