Y10 FIRE LX

[Kevinlincs]

At home today so in between tasks I'm keeping the parts tub going with cleaning up some smaller parts ready to be red oxide painted then once I get them all done I'll spray with 2 pack black paint to freshen things up.
Some before and after shots, simplicity is you don't have to do much work to get them rust free.

[Kevinlincs]

Took the rear axle to the guy in the village who does blasting and powder coating. He's going to just blast the axle and spray it with red oxide for me mainly because the centre Bush I'm not replacing as it's in perfect order so couldn't be powder coated with that left in but also because I didn't want a layer on the hubs where the bearings go as it would need grinding back so easier just to spray it with 2 pack paint so I can mask the hubs up.
I've also taken a few bits and bobs including the front panel which will be blasted and powder coated.
Should have all the stuff done in good time so I'm not waiting for anything when it comes to be needed.
Back to the unit tomorrow so some more welding is in order.

[frankxhv773t]

I have had a front panel powder coated but after a few years rust started to come again from the seams. I might mean the powder coater was no good but this is just a heads up make sure it's done properly.

[Kevinlincs]

Anything with a seam can be an issue yes, I wondered about having it powder coated but I wanted it blasting to rid the rust.
Guy I've used in the village before and he does do a good job but it's if the rust can be reached in the seams. If not its just sealing it in.
I might have a look when I get it back, might be able to make a hole in any seams then fill the layers with rust prevantive material of some sort.

[frankxhv773t]

I think it's particularly vulnerable because it's straight in the blast of salt spray etc hitting the front of the car.

[Kevinlincs]

I'd say you're right on the money there Frank, like radiators that get bombarded by flies and salt spray it takes its' toll eventually.
Guess making it a 5 year refresh plan is an option 

[Kevinlincs]

Managed to get a few hours on the car this afternoon once the motogp had finished, the wait for bike racing to start again has been torture.

First task was to make a new wing bottom. Once made and welded on a mounting point was fitted to the sill, I use a rivnut tool which is easy to make captive nuts in places like this, I've some nice M5 cap head screws that will do the job nicely.

[Kevinlincs]

Lower inner wheel arch to the sill needed closing in then, a panel made up and then drilled with a 25mm hole cut in which I've new rubber grommets to suit, enables easy spraying into the sill cavity every couple of years in the future.

[DavidLaver]

Sorry - can't work out the mounting point and rivnut bit...

[Kevinlincs]

It's more on the underside of the sill, not that clear on there. It'll become clearer another time.

[frankxhv773t]

It isn't in the pictures. The bottom of the front wings, between the wheel arch and the door, is held on with a screw. The screw goes in to the panel behind which is the front closing panel of the sill. A captive nut has to be provided in this closing panel for the wing to screw onto hence the use of a rivnut.

[Kevinlincs]

For David, the view of the drivers sill with the rivnut mounting point 
Now all fully welded and cleaned up with temporary red oxide aerosol paint to protect it whilst it awaits the proper etch primer then sealant for the welds before the stonechip protection and paint.

[Kevinlincs]

With work being on a part time basis at the moment with the covid situation it is allowing me to get more done to the car, well this week at least I've managed to get another spell on the car.
The passenger side needed much the same process, floor to sill joint cutting away, floor needed repairing and the sill lip to inner sill repairing. A couple of days making that solid meant today I could finally attach the outer sill so now both sills are on, floors and inner sills repaired with just the end of the sill at the rear arch to cap in. That job was left for now so I could get plenty of paint spray into the sill cavity, with the car both right way up and upside down so it flows into both flanges.

[Kevinlincs]

The floor on the passenger side was a familiar story with the other side as far as repairs needed were concerned, even dwn to the same rearmost outrigger needing cutting apart whilst the front one was still OK.

[Kevinlincs]

The car will sit upside down now until I get back there, probably not until Wednesday next week when I'll finish off the rear of the sill / inner rear arch repairs then make the mount for the lower front wing fixing, so that will be the sills done.

The passenger front wing isn't as bad at the lower edge as the drivers one was, but it will need to have a repair made up for the arch lip almost to the apex.

Once that job is done then the rear inner arches will be cleaned up fully whilst the car is upside down. Despite my thinking it is still solid in the rear corners I'm now sure it won't be, amazing how much more you can see when it's shiny side down, but that brings its own tasks. Repairing it whilst on the stand though won't be sensible as it's far too close to the point where I have mounted the frame, cutting out metal next to that with the weight of the car hanging next to it would no doubt end in disaster so I'll have to make do once it's back on axle stands, at least I can do it without the axle being in the way so shouldn't be as bad as it could be....