Fulvia 1600HF timing chain

[Crookster]

Hi all, I am hoping someone can help me with a bit of advice. I havent had my Fulvia long and I noticed the other day that when I blip the throttle I think I can hear (with my head under the bonnet) the timing chain, on the over-run. So I removed the cam cover to have a look. If I press the chain down between the two sprockets, I can depress it about 2cm, and the tensioner is pushed back against its spring. However, when I let go, the chain and tensioner dont necessarily spring back into position.
I understand that the tensioner spring is assisted by a piston pushed by oil pressure, but of course I can only inspect it with the engine off. Can anyone advise me: are 'they all like that Sir' or should I be concerned? Many thanks in advance! BTW the tensioner nylon (or rubber?) shoe appears to be present and in good shape.

[lancialulu]

The tensioner is normally a black hard wearing composite type of material. I think it is normal for the chain to stay relaxed between the cam sprockets. It does not take much to go tight again. 2 cm seems a lot and 1600s are more likely to wear than the 1300's. A new chain you have to fight to do the link up. The wear tolerance is 6mm in a total length of 1124mm so it looks like time to replace. How many miles(km) since last changed?

[Crookster]

Thanks for the useful comments. I dont know how many miles the chain has done; the car's history stretches back 20 years and about 20000 miles with no mention of a chain replacement, so I have to assume 20k+. The rubber 'shoe' on the tensioner appears smooth, not ridged etc. I guess the conclusion is, play it safe and replace!

[Crookster]

(replace the chain, I mean).

[nistri]

Highly advisable to replace the chain and make sure you get the right one for the 1600 engine (not the 1300). Retiming the engine valves needs experience and patience to avoid expensive errors. Even if probably not necessary in your case, the chain tensioner can be removed afer removing the water pump with the engine in situ: it is not too difficult and I have done it myself. Just make sure you don't drop anything in the engine sump! Andrea

[lancialulu]

If I am not mistaken it is possible that the plunger can fall out of the bottom of the tensioner without the chain holding it in place. As Andrea says it is probably worthwhile removing the water pump ( I would drop the sump too (more complicated as you need to remover the under gearbox cross member and undo the anti roll bar subframe mounting to push it out of the way of the sump). The 1600 has a much longer and stronger (or should have) tensioner spring and I find it a bit troublesome until familiar. There is a brass top cap which if in good condition can be undone to release the spring tension but it may be tight and easily rounded off as the angle of the socket spanner is tight to get a good fit. Putting it  back is also challenging and being brass is not magnetic...

As Andrea says valve timing is tricky and not like Fuzz did on Car SOS with tippex!!! And you have to redo the distributor timing and make sure you are firing on the #1 instead of #4 when #1 valves are closed. The timing marks on the cams and the front cam cap are just to approximately keep the cams in a position the valves dont hit the head when turning over the new chain..

You say 1600HF which is second series and this has a small roller chain compared to the earlier S1 (1.6HF) and has 118 links.

[Crookster]

Thank you to both of you for your advice!