'72 Fulvia rebuild

[Keithver]

The beginning of a new year! lets hope that we'll get this virus under control soon so that we can return to life as we knew it.
I'm putting my front suspension together and am not sure where all the bits and pieces go on the upper control arm bolt. I know, I should have taken more photos . I'm struggling to work it out from the parts book. Is the order in the photo correct. Thats how I put it together on the right hand side. There seems to be a lot of forward and backwards play on the arm. I'd guess 3 or 4mm in the alu. support frame. I have replaced the rubbers with new

[lancialulu]

From your photo it looks like you are missing the inner nylon bush that is inside the rubber silent block??

I do not know of a source to one for one replacement - only a modification kit which is different  https://www.pieces-fulvia.com/kit-silent-blocks-upper-arm-lancia-fulvia-serie-1.htm

BTW the nylon disk should be more accurately shaped...

[lancialulu]

Update

Is your car tubular or pressed upper wishbones. If pressed ignore my post!!

[Keithver]

Thanks Tim. The arms are the tubular type. The first washer (thin one) at the silent block is a replacement nylon washer. The Pieces modification could be a possibility. The bushes on my lower control arms are the same as those

[simonpen]

I am confused, I thought S2/S3 cars had 'metalastic. bushes, which I fitted to my S1 in place of the rubber only originals..

[lancialulu]

So S1 upper is a bar with castellated nut at one end and fixed hex with grease nipple at the other (forward facing). The bar rotates on steel tubes In a 2 part (nylon tube and rubber tube) bush at either end. There is a spacer tube in the middle which allows the greasing to get to the back. There is a nylon washer, a dished washer and a strong washer. The whole assembly is done up tight. Obviously poorly maintained and high mileage cars will wear these parts out which is why there is an alternative with basic silent blocks as original parts seem no longer available.

[Keithver]

In putting the factory cars together, it seems as if they used up all the remaining stock of S1 parts on older S2 cars and then changed to the correct S2 pieces. I have one of those cars. There are other S1 parts on mine as well

[Keithver]

Tim, a thousand thanks. Your mention of the nylon inner silent block has saved the day. I make a point of not throwing old spares away until I have that section correctly re-assembled and today that paid off. I went and inspected the old rubber silent blocs and discovered those pesky nylon silent blocs lurking inside. I removed them, cleaned them up and they all look fine. I have put them in and tightened everything up on the RHS. What a difference. No slop at all. Tight as anything. Thanks again guys for your help. The photo shows all the parts in sequence on the bolt

[Keithver]

I'm putting the sub-frame back together and wondering how important the torque settings are.
I've been puzzling over pages 11/0010 and 11/0020 in the tech. manual trying to work out which descriptions apply to which fixings. I think I have most of them, but ask for help on the others please.
I have marked up the frame drawing with how I understood the descriptions. Have I got them correct.

Item 5 - is that the single bolt attaching the rear of the 'engine-center-support' to the front cross-member between the alu. uprights?
Item 6 - is that the single bolt attaching the front of the 'gearbox-center-support' to the front cross-member between the alu. uprights?
Item 8 - fixes the 2 steel cross-members to the alu.uprights
Item 9 - attaches the steel leaf-spring housing to the top of the alu. uprights
Item 11 - Is this the engine mount plate to engine. The plate that sits on top of the engine silent-blocks
Item 12 - the 2 bolts that fix the tops of the alu. uprights to the body in the engine bay

[Keithver]

She has finally gone off to the body shop for her structural rust repairs. The ones that I'm not comfortable doing. Sub-frame mounting boxes, inner and outer sills, rear wings and the lower patch panels are the main ones. I've asked him to put in a full length membrane between the inner and outer sills. I'm nervous to find out what it is going to cost . I'm then going to have to decide what colour blue to paint her.

[Keithver]

While the body is having all the bits and pieces cut out and replaced, I've been having a look at the gearbox.
I removed the drain plugs as per photo 1. The teeth shown are from the 1st gear syncro. Not sure how this happened as the bronze syncro ring is fine. My box is one of the very early 2nd series boxes and the 1st gear has a 48mm ID rather than the later 47mm ID.

Has anyone got spare 1st gear (41 Teeth, Ø Outer 114mm x Ø Inner 48mm) that they would be willing to part with. I haven't been able to find one in SA. see photo 2.
While waiting for the gear ring, I have taken the motor apart and sent all the bits off for proper cleaning. Then it will go to an engine re-builder to sort out anything not up to scratch.

The other photos show the state of the right hand side with the sills removed. no wonder the jack went up at the rear but the car didn't. From what I have read, it seems as if putting a full length membrane, with some strengthening beads/dimples, between the inner and outer sills is the way to go. Is that correct.

[nthomas1]

Reference the sill strengtheners, a number of people recommended to me that I install them.  I could see the benefit in improving strength and rigidity for a track or rally car but wasn't sure whether it would be overkill for a road car.  But I decided that as the outer sills were off the car it wouldn't be that much extra effort or cost to fit them, so I did.  There's some discussion and pictures on the topic on pages 2, 3 and 4 of my rebuild thread (Report on Slow S2 Coupe Rebuild).

[lancialulu]

Re gears these 1st and 2nd wear badly as the hub does the damage due to inefficient sychro action. See photo. The teeth on the gear wheel get worn to a point where metal fatigue breaks one tooth and then a domino effect. You need to check the gap of the synchro cone to the gear. 1mm is good. 0.5mm bad. You can sometimes swap the less worn synchro cones but I would replace worn ones with new (not cheap). You need to clean out the sychro hubs as well as these gather muck and pack it centrifugally.... Best bet for a replacement would be Cavalittoas breaking a secondhand box will probably reveal an equally worn 1st gear.

[lancialulu]

cheap gear set from Italy. Vendor is OK but this photo is not! Cannot tell if 1st gear is in good useable condition....

https://www.ebay.it/itm/Ingranaggio-per-cambio-5-marce-Lancia-Fulvia-coupe-Berlina/273838982146?hash=item3fc2134402:g:ElEAAOSwX2Jc1COT

[Keithver]

Thanks Norm. I've had a look at your pages and am going to send them to my guy, if that's okay. Those are some mean looking dimples in your membrane. Are you enjoying your car now that it is finished.
Tim, the person that is helping me with the gearbox seems happy with the syncro rings. We have cleaned them and lapped them. I'm not sure who or what "Cavalittoas" is. Didn't have much luck doing a Google search. I have emailed the eBay supplier. I hope he comes back to me. Thanks again for the help. Appreciated