'72 Fulvia rebuild

[frankxhv773t]

Cavalito is; https://www.oldlanciaspares.com/ 

A Turin based historic Lancia parts supplier, possibly the world's premier place for getting parts to keep old Lancias running.

[Keithver]

Thanks Frank. I can't find 1st gear on the site, but have emailed them with a request. All these Lancia resources I didn't know about. Fantastic - thanks again

Another thought?
would it be possible to machine a 47mm ID gear ring. Taking it to 48mm ID or is the material too hard?

[Keithver]

I have just had a whole lot of pieces aquablasted and they have come back beautiful, Like new. Included were the seat frames and rails and the jack. Please could someone tell me how the frames and rails should be treated/coated before they rust. Is there a specific blue code for the jack or is it just royal blue

[lancialulu]

Thanks Frank. I can't find 1st gear on the site, but have emailed them with a request. All these Lancia resources I didn't know about. Fantastic - thanks again

Another thought?
would it be possible to machine a 47mm ID gear ring. Taking it to 48mm ID or is the material too hard?

Keith have you sorted this yet? I am perplexed as to 48mm i/d as there is only one hub the gear sits on in the parts book. I measured a set today at 47mm....

[Keithver]

Sorry Tim. Ive only seen your post now. Apparently, the early series 2 boxes had a 48mm shaft. Later it was changed to 47mm. I got a 47mm gear from Lancia here in ZA and took it to a gear engineering shop. They bored it out to 48mm for me. He said he was pretty sure that the 'case hardening' was thick enough and the gear should be good. Hope so. I hope to have it fitted back in the box one of these days soon

[Keithver]

Progress at the body shop.
1st Photo shows the drivers inner and outer sills, full length membrane (between the two) and the jacking points welded in and primed. the 2nd photo is the strengthening box we place inside the sills above the jacking points and the third is the cleanup of the surface rust and accident repair on the drivers rear quarter panel. The inner panel was pretty mangled, but Dean has managed to sort it out so that the trim-card next to the back seat now fits properly. The driver's side might even be complete this week.
The car came with a replacement engine (818.302), running, in the car and the original one (818.303) in pieces. I'll be fitting the 303 again, so it will be original. The engine is at the re-builders to have the machining etc. done. The original block had been re-sleeved but not honed. It has now been honed. We managed to reuse the pistons but have fitted new rings. The crank was re-ground for the new main bearings. I have had the valves and guides replaced. Not one of the 4 rocker shafts was serviceable, so have replaced those. The camshafts were fine and so were most of the rockers.
When I get the lot back I can refit the head and work out the timing. I've looked at the manual and, not being a mechanical genius, feel that I am going to have to read it again, a couple of times, to understand what they are trying to tell me. A complete new gasket set is waiting to be fitted. There is very little of the car with me here at home. I'm really scratching about for things to do at the moment. Oh well, I suppose I'll have to start re-furbishing the stainless steel trim and bumpers next.

[lancialulu]

Sorry Tim. Ive only seen your post now. Apparently, the early series 2 boxes had a 48mm shaft. Later it was changed to 47mm. I got a 47mm gear from Lancia here in ZA and took it to a gear engineering shop. They bored it out to 48mm for me. He said he was pretty sure that the 'case hardening' was thick enough and the gear should be good. Hope so. I hope to have it fitted back in the box one of these days soon

Good to hear.

[Keithver]

My seat hinges were in such a bad state that taking them apart and possibly destroying them and having to buy others didn't really matter. They need to come apart so that they can be re-chromed.
Take lots of photos of the process - helpful sorting the order of rebuilding. There are lots of washers and spacers. The hinge with the release lever is more complicated than the one without the lever. Taking them apart is a very similar process
I removed the inner cover and grabbed the hooked end of the spiral spring (photo 1) with pliers and lifted it away from the stop. There isn't much tension in the spring in this position so not as scary as it might seem.  After removing the outer black plastic centre cover, I ground the peening off of the central shaft with my Dremel, just enough so that I could remove the cupped washer and then the larger hinge leaf. See 2nd photo also showing how I drilled and tapped a hole so that I could bolt it all back together later. The cage that holds the bush and rubber for the transfer shaft between the hinges needs to have the rivets drilled so that can be removed. Take lots of photos of the position of all the bits and pieces. The hinge with the release handle needs to have the rivet end ground off of the inside so that it can be removed.  I was able to leave the second lever attached for the chroming process as it is covered by the outer hinge leaf and doesn't need to be perfect. Put the release lever in a vice and gently tap the plastic ball with a hammer to remove it.
The re assembly is fairly easy if you have taken enough photos. The cage for the transfer shaft bush needs to be riveted back in place.(photo 1) Photo 3 shows the order of the bits for the non-lever hinge.  Add grease to all of the moving parts including the gears in both halves.  I also pressed grease into the spiral spring as it seems to rub on itself in places when the hinges operate. There is a punched mark, in photo 1, on the top LHS of the transfer shaft drive. I don’t think it makes any difference where the mark is, as long as both hinges in a pair have their marks facing in the same direction. This lets the transfer shaft slide onto both drives without changing the angle of one hinge. Both hinges have to be in the fully forward position. Replace the inner protection cover.
The above assembly steps must be used again on the release lever hinge, but add the following as well. All the pieces for the hinge are shown in order of assembly in photo 4.  The release lever needs to be manoeuvred into position under the second lever. See photo 5.   5 also shows the final positions of the workings. The release lever pivot had the remaining piece of rivet ground off. I drilled and tapped right through the pivot to take a bolt and fender washer from the inside. Remember the cup washer under the head of the pivot. I peened the end of the bolt once installed to keep it in place. Photo 6. After greasing everything, the two halves can go back together. Remember to align the punched mark on the end of the transfer shaft drive the same way as the other hinge.  Photo 7 shows the bolt and fender washer to hold the whole lot together. There is a small protrusion inside the black plastic centre cap that I needed to remove to enable the cover to fit properly. The small spring goes between the small hole in the top RHS of photo 5 to the punched eye in the outer hinge leaf. The bigger spring’s small side goes over the pin on the end of the release lever and the larger end over the notched tang on the inside of the inner leaf.

[davidwheeler]

I need to tackle this job.  Many thanks for the info!

[Keithver]

I am re-assembling my engine and am about to install the head. I have laid the head gasket on top of the block and noticed that the 3 holes marked in the photo don't line up exactly with the holes in the block. there are others that are completely covered. The old gasket is the same so I presume this is not a fault with the gasket.
My question is, should I open these holes so that they are the same size as the holes in the block. Wouldn't this open the waterways up for more efficient cooling?

[lancialulu]

I am re-assembling my engine and am about to install the head. I have laid the head gasket on top of the block and noticed that the 3 holes marked in the photo don't line up exactly with the holes in the block. there are others that are completely covered. The old gasket is the same so I presume this is not a fault with the gasket.
My question is, should I open these holes so that they are the same size as the holes in the block. Wouldn't this open the waterways up for more efficient cooling?

I have heard (and I believe it true) that the gasket is designed like that to regulate the block temperature. I know one member who has fitted a new gasket with holes opened up to match. I do not know if he is experiencing and colder running issues. Typically he rear cylinder will always run hotter...

[nistri]

the general advice is to keep the gasket as it is, Andrea

[Keithver]

Thanks very much. It seems as if it should stay as it is then - that's what I'll do
The next trick is to understand setting the timing from the manual - today's task

[lancialulu]

While others may disagree. I always fit these grey laminated head gaskets dry.

[Keithver]

reading and re-reading the valve timing sections in the S1 and S2 manuals plus finding info on the web about the 2.2mm method has only confused me more. I tried the forum but didn't have any success. Let me put this down in words so someone can tell me where I am going wrong.
I spent half an hour making a puller for the dowels after discovering that they are tapped with an M3 thread down the center. Worth the time as I have already messed one dowel up by trying to remove it with pliers. see photo
I'll work from the S2 manual page 13 bottom
1.  I closed #1 inlet valve and set the clearance to 0.15 + 0.03
2.  I turned the engine until #1 exhaust is closed and set the clearance to 0.25 + 0.03
3.  I lined up the two cam marks with their markers on the front cam hold-downs. The flywheel "0" is also lined up with the crank mark 1|4.  #1 intake is about to open and the exhaust is almost closed.
4.  I rotate the engine backwards (taking play into account)
5.  Rotate the engine forwards until the 0.03 feeler is difficult to remove from #1 inlet
6.  Remove the dowel from the inlet sprocket
7.  here the manual asks for the rotation of the flywheel until the removal of the 0.03 (with difficulty) from the exhaust side. But the exhaust valve is not full closed at this stage so there is no gap. Should I be rotating the engine forward until the valve is closed. Putting in the feeler and rotating backwards until the valve is open, then forward again until it is difficult to remove or should the cam do a full rotation until the feeler is difficult to remove.
8.  it then says remove the exhaust sprocket's dowel.
9.  Next turn the flywheel until "0" lines up on the crank case mark.
10. fit both dowels and tighten the set-screws

I'm sure the Vernier adjustment is superb, if you understand it
Am I now ready to go after this. Setting all of the valves to the spec with each valve in the closed position

Thanks in advance for your help