Coolant change

[RDG496]

I'm going to perform my first fluid change of any kind by changing the coolant in my S2 Fulvia hopefully this weekend and install a new set of hoses (Top/Bottom and water pump)

Any do's/don'ts or tips to follow ?
Anything I should also be doing whilst the coolant is drained ?

The cars seems to be running fine, although I don't recall the temperature ever getting to the half way point on the gauge and I did have to top up the rad with about a pint of coolant last week.

Any advice most welcome.

Many thanks

[lancialulu]

I would use blue glycol based antifreeze at 50% to minimise corrosion. Also Fulvias “self level” their raditators to putting a pint to top up may just get blown out to its normal level...

[frankxhv773t]

Are you planning to replace the hose clips too? If not then it's worth checking they all look sound before you start and having some spares handy if any look past their best.

[RDG496]

I have the coolant already and will be picking up new clips in the morning.

I was intending to remove the hose and drain from the rad as opposed to undoing the t junction bolt........as Im replacing hoses anyway.
Then drain system then fill with water drive to circulate/flush cool then drain and repeat then fill with coolant.

Should I do a backflush or leave alone given it seems to be operating OK ?
Do I fill the rad or remove the sensor and fill at the water rail ?

Cheers

[nistri]

If you can do a backflush, that would be very useful to clean the engine waterways and the heater radiator. Otherwise some old coolant will remain in them (in the engine usually 0.5 liter). The simplest way of doing it is to disconnect the rear hose from the 3 way tap and circulate water through it with the heater valve open. Cover with plastic sheathing the engine and generator. Stop flushing when the water from the 3 way tap appears very clean. Refill slowly to avoid air traps. Blue coolant should be replaced every 2 years. Andrea

[RDG496]

Thanks, assuming after draining and low hose pressure. Then perform coolant flush with additive run engine for 5mins, drain do the same with just water once or twice then refill with coolant.

Forgive naive questions, but complete novice here.

Cheers.

[lancialulu]

Unless you suspect a furred up radiator and or lots of ferrous corrosion from the block a hose flush through should suffice. Fill via the radiator. If the drain T piece looks at all corroded you would be wise to change it.

[nistri]

No need to use any additive, in fact they are not advised, just drain and flush with a low pressure hose. I have not been able to find a Fulvia that does not have substantial debris in the heater rad and engine. The antirust additives of the coolant have a limited lifetime unlike the ethylene glycol that of course is the anti-freeze compound.
Be careful with the T tap, its screws are often corroded inside the subframe. Andrea

[RDG496]

Got it.....will do so without the additive.

Thanks all.

[nistri]

And don't start the engine, just use the water pressure to clear the system, Andrea

[SJWhite]

Just one wee thing to add.  There is a coolant hose running very close to the O/S driveshaft.  On JGV this was rubbing and almost through.  Hope the pic helps.  Cheers

[fay66]

Just one wee thing to add.  There is a coolant hose running very close to the O/S driveshaft.  On JGV this was rubbing and almost through.  Hope the pic helps.  Cheers

Is it different than series 1, my 2c Berlina hoses are nowhere near the drive shaft and the heater hose is attached to the top of the inner wing,?
I know coupe heaters are different but I don't remember the series one Rallye Coupe hoses running near the drivershaft either 
Brian
8227

[nistri]

It looks as if on this S2 coupe the hoses have been changed or rerouted. Certainly not a good idea to have one so close to a driveshaft. Try to identify the hose coming from the cabin and going to the engine rad: This is the one used for backflush. In the attached pic you want to use item 11, Andrea

[Neil]

The routing is definitely incorrect, that hose may need to be re-attached to the base of the subframe along that side clear of the driveshaft, via the three way tap as mentioned, see attached parts book pages.

[lancialulu]

I have seen this on a few s2s with heater return pipe from the T piece goes under the transverse spring  housing and close to the drive shaft before going up and over to the bulkhead opening. I cannot see how a route back to the bulkhead has any built in support. This  (1/2") pipe had a T air bleed valve halfway along it. Maybe missing in most cars now and in my experience unnecessary if filling the radiator slowly as Andrea recommends. I us a large plastic tie wrap round the transverse spring housing to pull the hose away from driveshaft. It does not need to be tight.