Heater valve replacement

[Wangler]

Hi guys

I'm in the process of replacing the heater control valve in the footwell. The old one was well and truly blocked and seized.

I've removed the old valve but have re-fitted it temporarily (after clearing it) so I can attach a pipe to the heater radiator whilst I flush it.

The problem I have is that whilst the 2 M10 nuts securing the valve undid OK, one of them is now turning what I assume to be a bolt as I try to tighten it.

Questions:

Does anybody know if it actually is a bolt or is it a stud (which might have come adrift somehow)?
Is it possible to access the other side of the fitting without dismantling part of the interior so I can grip it whilst I tighten the M10 nut?

I have opened the plastic flap right by it but can't see or feel any sign of the "bolt" even with an endoscope inspection camera. it looks a bit of a mystery!

Thanks
Richard

[Richard Fridd]

How about gripping the exposed thread? Richard

[dhla40]

I think it is part of the matrix end tank, not good news as it will probably leak. If you remove the valve and clean the area at the base of the stud you might be able to secure it with JB weld or superglue and baking powder, if not it will be a matrix out and solder job, good luck.

Sean

[Wangler]

Thanks Sean, I have a horrible feeling that you're right. The car spent all its life in the south of Italy and the heater was probably never used.

I guess I can manage without the heater as the car won't be used much, if at all, in the winter. I've just by-passed it for the time being anyway.

Is the heater matrix extractable relatively easily?

[Wangler]

How about gripping the exposed thread? Richard

Sorry but it's very difficult to do that and I fear that if I can't see the other end of the "bolt" or whatever it is might be soldered or brazed into the matrix (which I can't see) and therefore broken, causing a leak.

[dhla40]

Heater removal is a long and fiddly job as so much has to be removed to gain access and even then getting the heater box out is like a chinese puzzle. I have done this twice and it took about a day each time.

Sean

[lancialulu]

There is a new old stock heater assembly of ebay.it. Not cheap though when importing.

[davidwheeler]

Having said and done all that, Fulvia heaters are pretty useless at the best of times.   You would be better off with a blanket.

[nistri]

Blankets are cheaper than reconditoned heaters. However, in my experience, S1 Fulvia heaters are not very efficient but adequate if the coolant temp is just over 70 degrees: this is not straighforward in winter as the fan is always on and the car really needs a rubber muffler on the front grille. S2 heaters are very efficient and, in fact, I normally have to turn down the heater output even when outside is very cold. The solution again is to use the grille protection and, very importantly, to replace the blue coolant diluted with distilled water every 2 years with backflushing of the system. I have never replaced or refurbished engine rad and healter on anyone of my Fulvias in more than 30 y ownership. Andrea

[lancialulu]

S2 heaters are very efficient and, in fact, I normally have to turn down the heater output even when outside is very cold.

I agree. 9  times out 10 a poor heater is down to poor maintenance leading to a partially or fully blocked heater core. If  not blocked they are more than  adequate. Tim

[fay66]

S2 heaters are very efficient and, in fact, I normally have to turn down the heater output even when outside is very cold.

I agree. 9  times out 10 a poor heater is down to poor maintenance leading to a partially or fully blocked heater core. If  not blocked they are more than  adequate. Tim

Despite 'Fays' heater radiator being recored twice, the heater box has been removed and everything sealed but I've never been able to coax more than a slight trickle of heat out of it, and certainly not worth the effort, for years now I've driven in gloves, scarf, hat and a big coat in the winter.
Brian
8227

[nistri]

What is the coolant temperature in winter? If this is low, no heater will work fine, Andrea

[Wangler]

Would appreciate if anyone can tell me at least how to get started on removing the heater rad on my s3. I just like things to work as they’re meant to.

[dhla40]

OK here goes, drain coolant, remove hoses and valve, remove centre console and side panels various 8mm nuts some well hidden, leave fuse box and wiring connected as this can be lifted clear later on.  remove gearbox console by selecting 3rd and wiggling free, disconnect operating cables from heater box and move clear.  Remove heater vent panel with switches, remove lower dashboard panel (may have to remove dashboard fascia panel as well).
From engine bay remove battery and heater inlet duct, disconnect heater motor wires and undo four 10mm nuts holding heater box to bulkhead.
From inside car pull heater forward and down to clear bulkhead and then try to hold fusebox wiring clear and twist heater towards passenger footwell, this is tricky but there is a posistion were it will come out.
Once removed take off the fan and release the spring clips holding the box halves together to get to the matrix.

Sean

[davidwheeler]

Blankets are cheaper than reconditoned heaters. However, in my experience, S1 Fulvia heaters are not very efficient but adequate if the coolant temp is just over 70 degrees: this is not straighforward in winter as the fan is always on and the car really needs a rubber muffler on the front grille. S2 heaters are very efficient and, in fact, I normally have to turn down the heater output even when outside is very cold. The solution again is to use the grille protection and, very importantly, to replace the blue coolant diluted with distilled water every 2 years with backflushing of the system. I have never replaced or refurbished engine rad and healter on anyone of my Fulvias in more than 30 y ownership. Andrea

Wow, I must have another look at mine before winter then.