Front Wheel Bearing

[my69S1]

I need to replace one of my front wheel bearings.  There is nothing in the service manual about this so I am hoping someone that has done this can walk me through what I need to do and in what order.  Thanks.  The car is a '69 S1.

[fay66]

I need to replace one of my front wheel bearings.  There is nothing in the service manual about this so I am hoping someone that has done this can walk me through what I need to do and in what order.  Thanks.  The car is a '69 S1.

Look at post in Fulvia 20th April 2021, there's a relevant post.
Brian
8227

[my69S1]

[/quote]
Look at post in Fulvia 20th April 2021, there's a relevant post.
Brian
8227
[/quote]

Thanks but that doesn't really tell me anything except I need to remove the outer nut and the inner retaining nut.  I assume I need to remove the drive shaft (CV joint)?, and what about the A arm and the spring?  Do I need to preload the spring or anything (I have a composite on rollers) and does it matter where I place the jack?.  I am replacing the ball joints and shocks as well and never having done any of this before (except shocks) was hoping someone could give me some pointers.  Thanks. 

[lancialulu]

You have to restrain the spring. Being a S1 there is a special tool that I think Omicron may sell that does this job. The club unfortunately does not have this. Basically it replaces the upper bolt on the outer edge of the spring housing with a strong forged extension to take a “U” shaped piece of metal that goes over the spring. The spring is then compressed by a jack under the hub until a bar can be passed through holes in the bottom of the U and under the spring. Being composite I would take great care not to make any stress marks or scratches. After the spring has beed restrained all the jobs you want to do are possible. (On S2 there is a bumpstop extension to the spring housing that you can wrap and bolt a strong chain round to secure the spring, but I would not use this with composite springs).

You need to remove the drive shaft for the wheel bearing. Do the wheel bearing in situ. The wishbone arms may need to come off to remove the ball joints (esp the upper) and press new ones in.

[nistri]

Just a  couple of my own comments followig Tim's sound advice. There is no need to do aything with the spring. Just remove the driveshaft after undoing the 3 hub nuts with the special tool. Remove the circlip fixing the inner castellated nut and carefully drift out the bearing.

However, the bearing inner nut can be a real problem to undo it even with the special tool and a lot of brute force. If resistant to all efforts, it is necessary to remove the suspension swivel (after disconnecting upper and lower balljoints, again a special Lancia tool helps here but not essential) and try to undo the nut on the bench. In my last case (after using 700 Nm torque...), it was necessary to go with the swivel to a lorry garage to use a giant power wrench. In this case a hydraulic press is great to fit the new bearing.

Removal of the top balljoint from the S1 wishbone is very difficult in situ. Best to drop the subframe and remove the wishbone, not a 5 min job. Good luck, Andrea

[my69S1]

Thanks, this is great.  I was really hoping I didn't have to deal with the spring.  I've attached Tav's 50 and 51 and will run through what was mentioned to make sure I understand it.

Once the wheel is removed and the front end on jack stands I will remove the outer hub nuts (#'s 9,19 and 20) in Tav 50. and drive out the drive shaft.  Once out I remove the circlip and inner retaining ring (#'s 1 and 14) in Tav 51.  And by the suspension swivel I assume you are referring to item 13 in Tav 51.  The inner ring is the beast to remove from your comments.  Once the inner ring is out I can drive out the bearing. 

Should I leave the shock in place to help keep the suspension from sagging too much and replace it only after I have replaced the bearing and have the drive shaft back in place?

Thanks again for the assistance.

[nistri]

Yes, the swivel is item 13 in Tav 51. You may have to undo the bottom end of the damper, sometimes necessary, others not.
The simplest way to get the driveshaft out (after undoing the hub nuts) is to undo the screws fixing the inner CV joint to the gearbox flange, drop the inner CV joint down and push the driveshaft towards the gearboxt. Be careful not to damage the thread of the outer CV joint (use a puller if possible to push it at the recessed center).
With a hydraulic jack positioned under the bottom balljoint you can gently move the suspension up or down to help your procedure. The hub nut must be torqued up to 200 Nm and staked. Unlike other cars, ther should not be any perceptible movement at the hub/bearing interface. Best regards, Andrea

[lancialulu]

Just to reiterate you need to restrain the spring if you are changing ball joints. Not if you are just doing wheel bearings. Indeed if you are doing both sides it may be just as easy to remove the spring completely (not for the faint hearted but can be done in half a day... The club has a tool to withdraw the ball joints from the upper arms as they are normally a blind fit. However I have yet to refit new ones without taking the arm off and pressing them in.

[my69S1]

Thanks for the added comments.  I hope to get to it tomorrow.

As an aside, does anyone have any tricks or tips on getting the bushings installed on the ends of the anti-roll bar?  I had to cut the old ones off so wondering how to get the new ones installed.  The rubber is extremely stiff.  Thanks.

[lancialulu]

Re antirollbar bushes, these just slide on maybe with help of rubber grease or washing up liquid. However , you may have a fatter than standard bar (18mm or larger diameter) then you may need to open up the standard bushes.

[my69S1]

Re antirollbar bushes, these just slide on maybe with help of rubber grease or washing up liquid. However , you may have a fatter than standard bar (18mm or larger diameter) then you may need to open up the standard bushes.

Thanks.  It was not so much getting the bushing on the bar itself, it was getting the bushing into that holder, the one on the end.  Just don't want to damage the bushing forcing it into the holder.

[my69S1]

So I was able to remove the 3 outer hub nuts, I guess one is just a spacer rather than a nut.  I was able to tap the drive shaft in about 1.5cm before it stopped.  I can grab the drive shaft from behind and push it in and out about 1.5cm.  It pushes in on the inner boot as well which is what is stopping it from going further I think.  I jacked up the suspension under the A arm maybe 5cm to help with alignment but I still can't push the driveshaft out the back.  Did i miss something?  I'm afraid to hammer on the drive shaft too hard in case I break something.

[nistri]

Did you completey remove the inner CV joint from the gearbox fange and allow it to drop down? After doing this and perhaps raising the suspension a bit with a jack under the lower balljoint, I normally use a puller to push the driveshaft toward the gearbox. Andrea

[my69S1]

Did you completey remove the inner CV joint from the gearbox fange and allow it to drop down? After doing this and perhaps raising the suspension a bit with a jack under the lower balljoint, I normally use a puller to push the driveshaft toward the gearbox. Andrea

That's the part I was missing, thanks.  So if I am removing the inner CV joint first, once I have the outer shaft pushed through the hub the entire driveshaft should be free of the car?

[my69S1]

Did you completey remove the inner CV joint from the gearbox fange and allow it to drop down? After doing this and perhaps raising the suspension a bit with a jack under the lower balljoint, I normally use a puller to push the driveshaft toward the gearbox. Andrea

Just wanting to make sure I am removing the correct bolts.  It is the ones at the back of the CV joint (see bolt circled red) and not the ones screwed into the gearbox, correct?