Front Wheel Bearing

[nistri]

Yes, correct: those are the bolts fixing the inner CV joint, Andrea

[ColinMarr]

After reading this story and having done some pretty challenging jobs on Lancias, from Aprilia to Fulvia over many years, I am pleased never to have attempted a front-wheel bearing change. Years ago I was pleased to entrust the job to Don Proudfoot and even then, he had a nightmare getting the worn bearing out of the hub. I hope this job goes more smoothly!

[my69S1]

Yes, correct: those are the bolts fixing the inner CV joint, Andrea

Colinmarr, yes I wish I didn't have to do it as well.

I got the driveshaft out finally.  There was a lot of grease when I pulled the CV joint from the gear box, enough that it dripped a big gob on the floor.  Is this normal?  Do I just clean up the face on the gear box when I am ready to reinstall the driveshaft?  I am replacing both boots since I have it off (one has a hole).

So I found out why the wheel hub was flopping around.  It wasn't the bearing so much as the inner bearing retaining ring.  It was never properly tightened against the bearing.  I put that 6 pronged ring remover and was expecting to have to really reef on it to get it off.  I barely applied any pressure and it started turning.  It also had not outer circlip.  Thankfully I purchased a new retaining ring and circlip.  But now that the bearing is exposed, how do I get it out?  There is nowhere to tap on it from the outside due to the hub spline.

Once it is out and everything is cleaned up should I put a little grease between the outer bearing and the hub wall?

Thanks for the continued support.

[my69S1]

While waiting on those questions I thought I would replace the drive shaft dust gaurds.  We all like pictures so here is one of my outboard CV joint with the dust cover off.  I figured I can slide both new covers on from one end.
 
The repair shop manual says to remove the old dust cover and slide on the new one I need to "gently tap on the joint inner ring and remove the joint from the shaft".  So which is the inner ring?  Is it 1 or 2 or something else.  I gently tapped on 1 but nothing happened.  Maybe I need to tap harder or tap on something else?  These work shop manuals aren't very helpful without pictures so hopefully someone in the future can learn from my frustrations.

[SanRemo78]

Can't comment on Fulvia but it looks very very similar to Beta. That has the shaft located by a spring clip that you have to overcome. If there's a collar around the shaft at the point the shaft enters the CV joint that'll be the telltale. The Beta shafts take more than a little tap to remove them. If the shaft is off the car it'd be put in a vice and the body of the CG hit (usually repeatedly) with a sort face hammer. Don't stand with your feet in the impact area! When I used to service them I'd simply remove the circlip from the inner end, slide the inner CV off the shaft and then slide the new boot down the length of the shaft. I could do this easily enough with the shaft in situ back in the day!
Guy

[lancialulu]

As Guy says, to remove the outer joint it takes a very smart smack with a copper mallet. Equally to replace you have to slide the small collar over the wire circlip that is at the end of the shaft, to compress the wire clip. Then offer up the cv joint lining up the splines and smack it back on. You may have to have a number of attempts…

Re the bearing yes you need to remove the stub axle (what you are calling the hub) before you can see enough of the bearing to drift/push it out. Examine the stub axle for wear on its inboard surface. A problem with Fulvias is they wear a few thou if there has been a prolonged bearing problem. This is irretreivable. I have some new stub axles for sale but they are S2 and different from S1 due to how the wheel attaches. If yours is worn you will need to replace.

[nistri]

On S1 driveshafts, as indicated by Tim, you need applying a sharp tap to shock free the CV joint. Refit with care to prevent distorsion of the clip. Use plenty of special grease  (molibdenum sulphide-based) and, after refitting the rubber boot, make sure you equalize the inside pressure with the ambient one by sliding a long thin screwdriver (carefully to avoid damage) inside the boot via the narrow end and moving the joint by hand in all directions. The inner CV joint needs the same grease.
The bearing can be extracted with a bearing puller fitted to a sliding hammer. However, careful use of a thin flat drift might do as as well. Andrea

[my69S1]

As Guy says, to remove the outer joint it takes a very smart smack with a copper mallet. Equally to replace you have to slide the small collar over the wire circlip that is at the end of the shaft, to compress the wire clip. Then offer up the cv joint lining up the splines and smack it back on. You may have to have a number of attempts…

Re the bearing yes you need to remove the stub axle (what you are calling the hub) before you can see enough of the bearing to drift/push it out. Examine the stub axle for wear on its inboard surface. A problem with Fulvias is they wear a few thou if there has been a prolonged bearing problem. This is irretreivable. I have some new stub axles for sale but they are S2 and different from S1 due to how the wheel attaches. If yours is worn you will need to replace.

Thanks.  What is it exactly that I a giving a smart smack?  Is it evident in my picture above?  Is this circlip visible or only after I remove the outer joint?

[my69S1]

On S1 driveshafts, as indicated by Tim, you need applying a sharp tap to shock free the CV joint. Refit with care to prevent distorsion of the clip. Use plenty of special grease  (molibdenum sulphide-based) and, after refitting the rubber boot, make sure you equalize the inside pressure with the ambient one by sliding a long thin screwdriver (carefully to avoid damage) inside the boot via the narrow end and moving the joint by hand in all directions. The inner CV joint needs the same grease.
The bearing can be extracted with a bearing puller fitted to a sliding hammer. However, careful use of a thin flat drift might do as as well. Andrea

Here is a better picture with some of the grease removed.  Is the ring I am to tap the one shown by the arrow?  Or do I stand the shaft vertically in a vise (with the joint I want removed pointing down) and give a sharp tap to the entire joint (put a block of wood on it and give it a whack)? 

[nistri]

Hit the outer cage ring with a wack while the driveshaft is held in a vice, Andrea

[lancialulu]

Thanks.  What is it exactly that I a giving a smart smack?  Is it evident in my picture above?  Is this circlip visible or only after I remove the outer joint?

Smack The CV joint it self not the little ring. Yes the circlip is not yet visible...

[my69S1]

I'm a little slow but I eventually get there.  Thanks, that is great.  I'll let you know how I make out.

[SanRemo78]

Here is a better picture with some of the grease removed.  Is the ring I am to tap the one shown by the arrow?  Or do I stand the shaft vertically in a vise (with the joint I want removed pointing down) and give a sharp tap to the entire joint (put a block of wood on it and give it a whack)? 
[/quote]

That ring is used to keep the circlip in the groove when you reassemble the shaft on the CV joint. It also limits the travel the shaft has into the joint and stops the splines jamming in the CV joint where they end on the shaft. Try not to lose it!

Guy

[Dave Gee]

This drive shaft looks the same as a Flavia drive shaft to me. Should this be so, and the only reason you are removing the outboard CV joint is to replace the rubber boot, then I would look at the inboard joint first. The only thing that holds that on is a circlip that is easily accessible from the end. If you remove the circlip and move the inboard rubber boot out of the way, you should be able to tap the shaft out with a punch. Then, remove the inboard cover from the shaft, clean the shaft and slide the new outboard cover on and reassemble. When you put the clips on the outboard rubber, as has been previously mentioned, make sure that there is not a lot of trapped air in there but also make sure the face of the rubber boot does not catch the inner race of the bearing, as this would cut the rubber.

Hope this is of some use.
Dave

[my69S1]

This drive shaft looks the same as a Flavia drive shaft to me. Should this be so, and the only reason you are removing the outboard CV joint is to replace the rubber boot, then I would look at the inboard joint first. The only thing that holds that on is a circlip that is easily accessible from the end. If you remove the circlip and move the inboard rubber boot out of the way, you should be able to tap the shaft out with a punch. Then, remove the inboard cover from the shaft, clean the shaft and slide the new outboard cover on and reassemble. When you put the clips on the outboard rubber, as has been previously mentioned, make sure that there is not a lot of trapped air in there but also make sure the face of the rubber boot does not catch the inner race of the bearing, as this would cut the rubber.

Hope this is of some use.
Dave

Thanks.  I am actually replacing both dust covers as one has a hole and the other is cracked so I decided I might as well do both.  I figured I only need to remove one joint to replace both dust covers.   It sounds like you are saying it is easier to remove the inboard joint?  Or am I reading that wrong.  There is so much bloody grease it is hard to see anything but I will have a look at the inboard joint before I start wacking, sorry tapping, away.