The Paul Atkinson - Augusta - news update [etc] ...

[Mark Dibben]

The solenoid and switch Chris fitted are these:

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/670/category/28

The bottom switch on this page having a default “off" position and springs back when released:

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/247/category/49#product_img_7-7

[Mark Dibben]

Thanks Karl, it does help indeed. I just hope that we haven't damaged anything beyond the relief valve itself running the engine with that stuck... We shall find out!

[Raahauge]

Mark, I have a spare spring.
It is out of an engine that seems to have been in a swamp.
I have lightly wire brushed it and although it is superficially a bit rusty I do not think it is corroded enough to be unreliable or affect its rate.
The free length is 36mm, maybe that that can be checked against an earlier post that gave a dimension (from Kari?)
If you think it is of use give me an address and I will put it in the post.

[Mark Dibben]

Thanks Mike, Ever so much. That'll be a great help I'm sure. The address is:

McPheat Automotive
Sefton's Farm,
Bay Horse Road,
Quernmore,
Lancs., LA2 0QA

All best cheers and thanks again,
Mark

[Mark Dibben]

Hello James, Yes please that'd be a great help. Chris was wondering whether the two pressure relief valves had the same springs in. I had to say 'dunno, but shall ask. Thanks eh, Mark

 
sent you a pm j

Hello James, Apologies, I'm still getting to grips with the forum beyond simple posting! As Mike Raahague has found one already, we should be okay with his. Thanks though eh; I'm very grateful, Mark

[Kari]

I went to have a look at the springs in my working engine. Attached the findings. Most probably, the springs are after market. In my opinion, the safety valve spring is probably on the strong side, but it didn't do any harm as the oil filter housing is still holding up! I didn't do any calculations.

The regulating valve spring is home made, by trial and error, I did shorten a longer spring until the oil pressure gauge did indicate opening between end of "NORMALE" and the right stop on a cold engine start.

I use straight oil 30 SAE.

Regards   Karl

[Mark Dibben]

Mark, I have a spare spring.

Hello Mike,
Thanks for your spring. Fitted and it works!
But Chris has had a mission today - read on :-)

Hopefully Chris' story may be helpful to others.

"I’d taken the carburetor off to access the upper oil pressure relief plug and whilst it was on the bench I thought I’d look into why it was wet in the carb bore with the fuel turned off. I found the needle and seat that in the top of the float chamber had a very worn needle. Anyway, with the cap and spring out of the way I could look in the relief valve bore with a mirror, saw it had what looked like dried oil in the threads blocking the piston from coming out. I used a dentists tool and some patience I got this out of the way but the piston still would not budge. I found 10mm tap tip was a little smaller than the spring OD so I used this tap and wound it into the well in the end of the piston, just as it started to bite the piston turned and I was able to get it out. I then cleaned the bore out a bit more and got it so the piston was a good and easy fit. I had made a spring from stock to go in the plug, bunged it all back together, fired it up, still no oil pressure.
I then removed the oil filter and adapter and could not understand why the oil had such a thin consistency as I’d only just put it in there. I then took the right hand side cover off the crankcase and saw that the oil level was extremely high and the oil had a strange odour. I drained the sump and the odour became clear, petrol. A rag dipped in the “oil” and then held over a flame burst into fire. It looks like the fuel tap and needle have both been leaking and for whatever reason the fuel tank had emptied into the sump, thinning the oil somewhat. I put 2 litres in the sump and turned the engine over without spark plugs until oil came out of the oil filter feed hole. I then fitted the oil filter adapter with a new oil filter (I got 2 this morning) and turned it over again until oil came out of the lower pressure relief valve hole before fitting the ball bearing, spring and cap. I left my handmade spring in the upper relief valve, hooked it all back up, filled the sump and fired it up and, after the system filled, the gauge came up to half way. I then fitted the spring supplied by your pal and that put the pressure up to just above the middle of the gauge at slow idle and towards the top when running slightly faster."

Chris has also removed the offending brass fuel supply pipework and tap that caused the leak into the carburetor and replaced it with fuel hose. This means the new fuel tap he fitted last week is the only one in the system (since removed the in-cockpit one to fit the starter switch) and all seems well with the rebuilt carburetor.
So hey presto! Thank goodness it was nothing more serious. And it just goes to show these cars don't like being laid up; they need to be used. Good - vroom vroom. Next on the agenda is restore the rear suspension to working order as Paul had disabled it; it's a shame not to have it working since we've got it and we've done all this work on the car so far. Then re-waxoil all the underside, the seams and the doors, and then take it for a spin :-)
By the way, if anyone has the tools to service the front suspension that they could loan to us I'd be ever so grateful. While it's in the garage for the winter, it's a good opportunity.
Cheers, and thanks again Mike,
Mark

[Mikenoangelo]

Good news Mark a couple of issues resolved.
Re front suspension tools. I made a full set which you are welcome to borrow. I have a box to ship them . Send me pm with phone numbers and we can organise delivery - unless you fancy a run up to Harrogate.
Mike Clark

[brian]

Comments about oil pressure readings fascinating.
Some years ago I had to remove the Aprilia dash and disconnect the oil pressure gauge (same as Augustas).
When I put it back, the needle went to max and stayed there. Curious as if anything it was low before, so I took the gauge out again and was more careful about not rotating the hex connector on the back and found that by moving this I could get whatever readings I liked. So I left it so that it was just over top normale when cold and bottom end when hot. Noted same on Augusta.
I suppose I ought to know what pressures I have actually got!

[Mark Dibben]

Thanks indeed to Mike Clark for lending us his suspension service tool kit. The strip of the first corner Chris has tackled, right front, is per the photo below that comes with the following comment from him:
"I’m glad I am doing this job, when I released the lower end it was water that came out first and then emulsion. When it is all apart I will clean it all up and check it against the instructions. Progress."
On the basis of what we unfortunately found with the engine, I knew I had to ask Chris to do all this work. If anyone can see anything that doesn't look right or needs attention, please do shout. Coz once it's all back together I want the car to be spot on so that I (or indeed anyone else in the future) can have proper confidence in it. Shall obviously keep you posted as we go along with this.
Thanks ever so much,
Mark

[Raahauge]

Mark,
My car, and several others I have looked at, were/are missing the cover over the top cap to keep the water out.
I cannot see any such cover in the picture.
From memory the damper rod is 10mm and the hole in the top cap is 12 so unlesss there is a cover water will find its way in. I believe that the original was trapped under the oiler but the top of my damper rod is flush with the top cap so would be damaged under severe bump (I think I've got that right the right way round) which might explain why some are missing. I made a couple to go over everything.

[Kari]

I have seen upper dust caps on which the hole on top is enlarged and got too large for attachment. I think a commercial plastic end cap would be useful and would not be affected by the movement of the rod in relation to the damper drive cap. Most important to keep the water out.
Karl

[Mark Dibben]

Thanks Karl and Mike, I'd forgotten about that.
Mike, could I trouble you to make another pair of covers for me? Thank ever so much.
I'm going to need to find a few more pennies because, as you will see from the photos, something bad has happened to the left front suspension at some point... Thankfully we can get new springs and also lower guides - the latter from Italy via Omicron thank goodness. These I have ordered today from Andrew (thanks indeed) and I'm sure he'd be happy to order more if people wanted them.
Mike Clark was very helpful with advice, thanks so much too. The long and short of it is that we've got to get this car back to the standard of its reputation in the club!!
Thankfully, too the rear suspension is in much better shape, just need expected service items, for the next post.

Left Front Suspension
I stripped down the left side of the front suspension and cleaned and inspected all parts from both sides. Whilst there does not appear to be much wear there certainly is some on the lower guide inner bearing, flat spots as mentioned in the newsletter article. Somewhat worse, maybe, is the fact that with the left side there are 2 cracks in the inner bearing running between two of the holes and the lower edge. You can see these issues in the first five annotated photos. In addition I found the lower, shorter of the two damper rod drive springs on the left hand side is broken and, from the wear pattern, has been like this for a while (see sixth & seventh photos). Both sides had maybe 2 tbsp of water in the bottom of the reservoir and not really all that much oil/emulsion.

If anyone sees anything extra that we need to be paying attention to, I'd be grateful for any extra thoughts. More photos in the next post

[Mark Dibben]

And to follow on from the previous post, here is the write up of the rear suspension

Rear Suspension
Both rear shock absorbers came off the car easily enough and when stripped down were found to be in very good condition. The mounting bushings are a little old so I might as well try and source these from Robush as I did the steering bushings, probably a fiver each, 4 of them needed. The adjustable shock absorber is effectively a rubber bag mounted on one end of the centre of the shock, oil pressure swells the bag and forces the shock halves together. It would not take much, when reassembling them on the bench I set them back to how they were (just over 30lb pull to get them moving), if I tightened the through bolt 1/12th of a turn it added 5lb to the pull. I did find both of the feed pipes blocked with a blue wax, what I believe is coagulated ant-freeze. I do not agree that this is a better medium than oil, if the oil expands slightly then you can just unwind the control knob to release a little pressure. I have also ensured that the rest of the pipes on the car are clear and removed the gauge, pump & reservoir (see photos). 

Again, if you spot anything that we're missing, do let us know - thanks eh,
Mark

[Raahauge]

Mark.
I can supply two of the short spring, I had some made because one of mine was broken due to, or certainly aggravated by, rust. £5 each.
I also have, (hope advertising is permitted on here), handbrake return springs, door handle return springs (mislaid at the moment but I can find them) and the castings that fit on the end of the running board rubbers.
I will look at making some covers but it won't be for a while, I am a bit stretched at the moment.
Brightwells just sold a flat rad car, I have ask if the new owner can get in touch, another on the road which is good.
Regards
Mike