ian
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« on: 04 June, 2008, 10:17:50 PM » |
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Well, the sump plug to be more precise. It won't release with the hex tool, wants to slip out, but grips nice and tight when I try to tighten it. Any tips on releasing it?
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inthedark
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« Reply #1 on: 05 June, 2008, 12:59:47 PM » |
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Warning this is a trick used by 'the colonel' (need I say more)
trap the hex key between the sump plug and a small bottle jack then apply spanner the increase in purchase should keep the hex key in place. Then order a replacement plug as it has obviously been damaged (rounded off) in the past.
Geoff
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ian
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« Reply #2 on: 05 June, 2008, 09:01:40 PM » |
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GOOD TIP, will try it on Saturday, before m.o.t
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ian
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« Reply #3 on: 06 June, 2008, 08:03:54 PM » |
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No way is that sump plug going to come out, tried the bottle jack thing this evening, no luck. the sump plug tool seems to be made of a softer metal than the plug itself!
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inthedark
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« Reply #4 on: 06 June, 2008, 09:10:12 PM » |
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Ok the alternative is to speak to your local garage, a lot these days have a device that sucks the oil out through the dipstick. That's how my local chaps do it.
Geoff
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Scarpia
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
Posts: 723
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« Reply #5 on: 06 June, 2008, 09:25:48 PM » |
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I assume you have tried it with the engine hot?(should be anyway of course ) but it may help if not.
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Neil Lewis
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« Reply #6 on: 06 June, 2008, 09:47:53 PM » |
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The "try local garage" idea is something I do if I've got a stubborn screw to loose. They'll have an air impact wrench which might break the seal between nut and thread by constantlt "banging" the nut round. It works well for Fulvia drive shaft nuts but I'm not sure I'd want to impose all that force on a sump plug for fear of cracking the sump itself.
So I'd go with the heat thing. However I'd use a blowtorch to heat up the alumimuim around the plug. Aluminium expands more than steel so this ought to work.
I also use a blowtorch to heat up the oil in gearboxes and final drives (by heating the casing) cos driving the car about won't normally make the oil runny enough to drain out easily.
Neil
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ian
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« Reply #7 on: 08 June, 2008, 08:07:38 AM » |
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yeah, already sorted with the local garage, they are going to look at the sump plug for me next week....when their doing the welding but I may have a go with the blow lamp thing before hand
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inthedark
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« Reply #8 on: 08 June, 2008, 03:30:21 PM » |
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Don't know about steel sump plugs, mine is brass
Geoff
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ian
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« Reply #9 on: 09 June, 2008, 08:30:18 PM » |
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Yes, mine is brass as well, but the tool still seems softer
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« Last Edit: 09 June, 2008, 08:55:18 PM by ian »
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nistri
Megaposter
Posts: 565
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« Reply #10 on: 10 June, 2008, 03:05:23 PM » |
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If the suggested tricks to remove the sump plug did not work, I advise caution about using heat and a blow torch. A much worse problem could well arise.
This is my suggestion (which normally does work even for really bad plugs):
engine hot; raise the car as high as possible on axle stands; with a hacksaw carefully cut a relatively deep notch in the rim of the plug; use a very good small chisel and light hammer to undo the plug by tapping it through the notch. Care and patience are necessary. Obviously a new plug will be needed after all this. When fitting a plug, make sure it has a good quality copper washer and do not overtighten the plug.... This avoids this sort of problem. All the best Andrea
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Andrea Nistri
Ardea S2 Appia S2 Fulvia GTE Fulvia Sport 1.3 S Fulvia Montecarlo Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
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davidwheeler
Permanent resident
Posts: 1487
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« Reply #11 on: 21 June, 2008, 02:53:41 PM » |
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I made up a tool by welding a suitable hex head set screw to a bar. It works for me!
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David Wheeler. Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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ian
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« Reply #12 on: 16 July, 2008, 10:47:32 PM » |
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Managed it with a small chisel and hammer! OUCH!!
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