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Author Topic: more nuts!  (Read 7163 times)
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ian
Guest
« on: 04 June, 2008, 10:17:50 PM »

Well, the sump plug to be more precise. It won't release with the hex tool, wants to slip out, but grips nice and tight when I try to tighten it. Any tips on releasing it?
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inthedark
Guest
« Reply #1 on: 05 June, 2008, 12:59:47 PM »

Warning this is a trick used by 'the colonel' (need I say more)

trap the hex key between the sump plug and a small bottle jack then apply spanner
the increase in purchase should keep the hex key in place.
Then order a replacement plug as it has obviously been damaged (rounded off) in the past.

Geoff
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ian
Guest
« Reply #2 on: 05 June, 2008, 09:01:40 PM »

GOOD TIP, will try it on Saturday, before m.o.t Cheesy
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ian
Guest
« Reply #3 on: 06 June, 2008, 08:03:54 PM »

No way is that sump plug going to come out, tried the bottle jack thing this evening, no luck. the sump plug tool seems to be made of a softer metal than the plug itself!  Angry
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inthedark
Guest
« Reply #4 on: 06 June, 2008, 09:10:12 PM »

Ok the alternative is to speak to your local garage,
a lot these days have a device that sucks the oil out through the dipstick.
That's how my local chaps do it.

Geoff
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Scarpia
Lapsed
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Posts: 723



« Reply #5 on: 06 June, 2008, 09:25:48 PM »

I assume you have tried it with the engine hot?(should be anyway of course ) but it may help if not.
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Neil Lewis
Guest
« Reply #6 on: 06 June, 2008, 09:47:53 PM »

The "try local garage" idea is something I do if I've got a stubborn screw to loose.  They'll have an air impact wrench which might break the seal between nut and thread by constantlt "banging" the nut round.  It works well for Fulvia drive shaft nuts but I'm not sure I'd want to impose all that force on a sump plug for fear of cracking the sump itself.

So I'd go with the heat thing.  However I'd use a blowtorch to heat up the alumimuim around the plug.  Aluminium expands more than steel so this ought to work.

I also use a blowtorch to heat up the oil in gearboxes and final drives (by heating the casing) cos driving the car about won't normally make the oil runny enough to drain out easily.

Neil
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ian
Guest
« Reply #7 on: 08 June, 2008, 08:07:38 AM »

yeah, already sorted with the local garage, they are going to look at the sump plug for me next week....when their doing the welding Cry
but I may have a go with the blow lamp thing before hand Undecided
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inthedark
Guest
« Reply #8 on: 08 June, 2008, 03:30:21 PM »

Don't know about steel sump plugs, mine is brass

Geoff
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ian
Guest
« Reply #9 on: 09 June, 2008, 08:30:18 PM »

Yes, mine is brass as well, but the tool still seems softer Huh?
« Last Edit: 09 June, 2008, 08:55:18 PM by ian » Logged
nistri
Megaposter
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Posts: 565


« Reply #10 on: 10 June, 2008, 03:05:23 PM »

If the suggested tricks to remove the sump plug did not work, I advise caution about using heat and a blow torch. A much worse problem could well arise.

This is my suggestion (which normally does work even for really bad plugs):

engine hot; raise the car as high as possible on axle stands; with a hacksaw carefully cut a relatively deep notch in the rim of the plug; use a very good small chisel and light hammer to undo the plug by tapping it through the notch. Care and patience are necessary. Obviously a new plug will be needed after all this. When fitting a plug, make sure it has a good quality copper washer and do not overtighten the plug.... This avoids this sort of problem.
All the best
Andrea
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Andrea Nistri

Ardea S2
Appia S2
Fulvia GTE
Fulvia Sport 1.3 S
Fulvia Montecarlo
Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
davidwheeler
Permanent resident
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Posts: 1487



« Reply #11 on: 21 June, 2008, 02:53:41 PM »

I made up a tool by welding a suitable hex head set screw to a bar.  It works for me!
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
ian
Guest
« Reply #12 on: 16 July, 2008, 10:47:32 PM »

Managed it with a small chisel and hammer! OUCH!!
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