Carburettors

[Wangler]

Good evening gents

My series 3 is a right pain to start when it’s been left standing for a few days. The rest of the fuel system is fine and I have fitted a Facet pump just to prime the carbs, which certainly helps. After it starts properly, it runs beautifully and pulls like a train. I also have 123 ignition.

When I had a S2 Fulvia back in the 70s it never had any problem in this regard, or indeed any other issue!

If it’s fixable by having the Solexes rebuilt I’m happy to do that, but I don’t known if that would do it. Any thoughts please?

[JollyClubUK]

I have the Solex set up with a Facet electric pump full choke starts 1st turn let it run on the choke for 30 seconds then gently warm up idles beautifully.
Mine is used every weekend so doesn’t just sit around. A nice brisk run keeps the car fine along with Shell V Power.

[Spider2]

If it runs great after it eventually starts then I really do not think there is much wrong with the carbs. The only thing I can think of is the float levels are too high so the carbs are too rich on initial crank over. Perhaps the pressure from the pump is set too high?
It may be worth not completely filling up the chambers (ie switch pump off before the noise of the pump changes) and allow the mechanical fuel pump to do the rest on cranking over.
Any change in the starting doing the above will give a clue. I assume both the chokes are working correctly? These carbs are not like Webers, the car will not start without full choke.
I know on my series 1 I have to hold the choke lever out with my left hand as I crank because if I let it go it springs back a little and does not give me full choke so will not start.
Does it start better (after a long crank}if you don't prime at all with the electric pump?

[Wangler]

Thank you that’s good advice. I think I might have been overdoing it a bit with the electric pump. I’ll also check the chokes. If I’m still having a problem I’ll check the floats, although I’ve never done that with a Solex!

[fay66]

Thank you that’s good advice. I think I might have been overdoing it a bit with the electric pump. I’ll also check the chokes. If I’m still having a problem I’ll check the floats, although I’ve never done that with a Solex!

I've owned my series 1 2c for 25 years , I realise the carburettors are different, but I've found once primed, with full choke my 2c starts first time.
However its a big mistake to touch anything until they have sorted themselves out, and rev to about 2000 rpm, then you can gradually push the choke lever in and use the throttle.
So, don't be tempted to touch anything, Hands and feet Off!

[Spider2]

I agree with fay. That's how it should start. Prime the carbs, full choke and bingo.
Check out your chokes. Put on full choke and then see if there is any more choke lever movement on the actual carbs. If there is still movement then you are not getting full choke when you pull the lever. It is easy to locate the choke levers on the carbs by just tracing the choke cable up from the bulkhead.
It is quite complicated to check float level on these solex's but quite easy to lower the level by putting a thin washer under the float needle if you think that may help.
I think your problem is simple and my bet is the choke mechanism is badly adjusted or the electric pump is set at too high a pressure. I think about 3 psi is what you need. Did you fit a pressure regulator when the pump was fitted?
I do not have an electric pump so if the car has not been started for a few days it does take a lot of cranking to fill the carbs, but when primed it starts beautifully.
When did this poor starting start? Was it by any chance after the 123 ignition was fitted? If so the timing could be too advanced, that would give difficult cold starting. One has to be careful when timing the 123 to get the static timing setting correct, the instructions, IMO, are not very clear.
keep us posted

[Wangler]

Thanks Spider 2. I’ll report back after I’ve checked the chokes. I was pretty happy with the timing on the strobe when I fitted the 123. There’s no pressure regulator but I only use the Facet for priming.

[chriswgawne]

My memory tells me that on some Fulvia Solex carbs, one can have slightly leaky gaskets on their underside ( which is presumably why the drip tray is there?). If the car is then left unused for a few days, the fuel held in the carb drips out and consequently starting takes longer. An easy fix but the carbs have to come off to do it.
Chris 

[Mikenoangelo]

Gosh - I see the benefit of the gravity feed scuttle tank on the August! Even if the float chamber had drained or evaporated, it is instantly refilled with fresh fuel as soon as the petrol tap is turned on so no problem of low level or of stale fuel after a period when not used. Actually the fuel tap works well and the float chamber does not drain or drip.
 
I had the Augusta out on Jan 2nd for the first time since early October. It started instantly at the first press of the starter. Mind you it does need full choke and no throttle and then requires a bit of juggling with choke and throttle to  set a quick tickover as the choke is released.

Mike Clark

[fay66]

My memory tells me that on some Fulvia Solex carbs, one can have slightly leaky gaskets on their underside ( which is presumably why the drip tray is there?). If the car is then left unused for a few days, the fuel held in the carb drips out and consequently starting takes longer. An easy fix but the carbs have to come off to do it.
Chris 

Hi Chris,
I don't think that's really the answer as my series 1 Rallye Coupe with solexes never leaked, for did the solexes on Fay before I changed them for dellortos, neither do they leak.
Until I fitted a electric pump for priming, I'd always had the same problem with churning over to pull the fuel up before starting.
Someone somewhere must have a definitive answer as every Fulvia I've ever known seems to have been the same.