S2 fulvia assembly

[lancialulu]

bout 15 years ago

Thanks Tim. I'm reasonably sure that nothing is worn. Just to make sure that I understand you correctly, once I have torqued the inner hub ring (with spring clip) and the shaft outer cardan nuts, the wobble should stop. Sounds like the answer I want . I would love to hire, thanks, but I'm not in the UK.
One other thing. While in the body-shop, I went through a set of outer CV boots. I've subsequently discovered that I hadn't fastened the boots high enough on the shaft. Is their a recommended position for clamping on the shaft. I haven't been able to find a mark on the shafts for this

Keith. The wobble should stop if everything is tight. JUst confirm you have the right bearings as about 15-20 years ago SKF were no longer available but another skf was but with shallower depth and some vendors would sell but yoiu would need a (thin) packing piece. I have not seen these alternative bearings for some time. Regarding the outer boot (assuming you are using Lancia and not universal type) is to pull the boot down the drive shaft enough so the the inner race of the CV joint does not touch it or it will cut it during operation. Shove a small screwdriver between the boot and shaft to ensure the boot has no trapped air.

[Keithver]

Thanks for the encouragement Julien.
Tim, you are the Man with the answers Thank you. The Lancia guy here got the bearings for me. I would hope that he knows about the correct ones. I suppose the only way to measure is to take them out again. I'll reset the CV boots to your spec.
The sound deadening went into the roof before the headlining. I made a full size paper template of where the sun visor screw holes are. Definitely worth it. Norm Thomas wrote up a brilliant guide for this installation (and others). It made the headliner installation far easier to do. Thanks Norm. The end result is quite pleasing especially after using a heat gun to tension everything up. The photo shows less than half the clips I ended up using. The more fold-over clips one has, the better. The back seat has been installed for some self encouragement

[JollyClubUK]

Simply stunning, with the attention to detail this little Fulvia is going to be superb.

[lancialulu]

Keith I would torque hub the hub  and retaining nuts first before disassembly.

[Keithver]

Thanks Tim, I'm waiting for the correct tool to arrive from Pieces. I'll then be able to torque everything correctly.

Next on the list was the gutters and window rubber channels. There were so many holes of different sizes, in the gutter areas, from previous fittings that I asked the body shop to weld them all up. Someone said I would struggle to drill new holes into the welded positions, but fortunately I didn’t have any trouble. I squeezed some waterproof sealer into the gutter channel, where it joins the body, before fitting and put a layer onto the window rubber channel before screwing the whole lot into position.
The old door top rubbers looked fine to me, so I fitted them. There was a suggestion that I should coat the rubbers with lubricant to make fitting easier. It is actually easier to fit them dry as the lube makes them too slippery to press the lip into the channel.

The rear vent windows got new rubbers as the old ones were shot. The new ones needed to be cut to size and angled in the corners. I cut them all slightly long and trimmed them to the final size where necessary.
I had to braze 3 of the 4 M3 brass bolts into the window frame pivot channel as they were missing. I also turned 3 new brass cone nuts needed to hold the vents into the B pillar. It wasn’t too difficult to re-locate the existing latch screw holes with a scriber. They were screwed up tight while someone else pressed the vent from the outside.

I then washed the car to test for leaks and there was a fair amount of water inside when I had finished. It looks as if the existing door window rubbers are too hard to allow a proper seal. I'm going to have to get the new rubbers.

[lancialulu]

Keith

Did you load the windscreen rubbers with non setting windscreen sealant before fitting. Messy but works. New rubbers may still not seal everywhere....

[Keithver]

Tim it's the door rubbers. Ive still got to get to the windscreens, unless I miss understand you

[HBG]

Hi Keith.

The car looks great! Can I ask why you chose to fit sound deadening material to the floors and roof? Does it add much weight?

Also, have you undersealed/ rust proofed the car?

Thanks, Howard

[Keithver]

Thanks Howard. The sound deadening also acts as heat protection. Tapping an un-deadened panel gives a really tinny sound. The deadening takes that away. I would say that it adds about 4 or 5 kilos to the cars weight. It has been 'stone-chipped' underneath and sills/doors/panels etc have been given a coating of anti corrosion coating

[Keithver]

I ordered new window scraper seals and glued them with contact adhesive and screwed them to the outer steel trim strips. The ends of the screws inside the channel  needed to be cut off with a Dremel to allow fitting. The fit along the main windows is fairly loose, so I presume that the channel needs to be closed until it is a tight fit. The end that goes along the forward vent window is a really tight fit and will need to be gently hammered (with a protective block of wood) in between the door and the vent frame/rubber. Have I made correct assumptions here please?

[Keithver]

I am almost ready to mount the re built rear brake calipers. I see that there is an 'adjusting shim' in the photo of TAV 41. I only have one each per side. Is that correct. If it is, does it go on the lower or upper retaining bolt. What is there a reason for this shim please

[Keithver]

Keith

Did you load the windscreen rubbers with non setting windscreen sealant before fitting. Messy but works. New rubbers may still not seal everywhere....

Hi Tim, back to the windscreen rubbers. I have bought a tube of the non-setting-sealant. Am I correct in thinking that the sealant only goes between the glass and the rubber for installation. Not between rubber and body. Apparently the windscreens need to be fitted with the chrome lock strips fitted before installation. I appreciate your help and advice. Thank you

[nistri]

Caliper adjusting shims: in theory there should be shims for the front and rear calipers. In the real world they are usually missing after such a long time. I have not noticed any difference in braking efficiency or pad wear with or without them. Andrea

[Simon B]

Hi Keith,

The caliper shims are more of a concern when fitting new discs. I’ve just fitted new discs to the rear of our S3 and fitted shims to both calipers to improve alignment. The worst side had clearances to the disc of 0.7mm and 2.5mm. I thought I had ordered a pack of assorted shim material from eBay but only one sheet arrived which was too thin to be useful, I simply made some from an old steel can.

[Keithver]

thanks Andrea & Simon. I have fitted new disks. I have always imagined that the pads were self-centering.
Mine, originally ( at dismantling), had a shim on the lower bolt on both sides but not the top which would raise the question of the whole lot being skew. I would presume then, that the shims should be the same thickness on the top and lower retaining bolts - If one uses them at all. Thank you both for your help