Electronic ignition

[GG]

Sitting carbs drain out their fuel. Not sure why - they could simply drain from sitting, but suspect its from heat after running that percolates the fuel (this was an issue in Nardi-equipped Aurelias). S.2 Fulvia had a return line (running to the gas tank) that bled off extra gas (when under  pressure while resting) and effectively put an end to this. This return line was also common with other Italian cars at time, introduced c. 1970 or so.

So the churning is using the mech'l pump to get them full of gas again.
An electric pump for start up is effective - have on an Aurelia to ease the initial starting time and load on starter motor. The Appia doesn't have one, and drains its gas, and takes a while to start.
 

[Jaydub]

Congratulations on the back-to-back championships, I take it that's with the HSCC? It's a few years since I was out with them.

I wasn't aware Nick had expanded into spares, he built my A-series in the early 2000s and it was a little gem. Condensers are too often overlooked so good to know where to get one which won't break down.

Looks like electric fuel pump, plugs and leads to start with, plus potentially coil and condenser for reliability.

Thank you, yes HSCC , Silverline UK Series for Formula Juniors. What did you run?

[fay66]

Sitting carbs drain out their fuel. Not sure why - they could simply drain from sitting, but suspect its from heat after running that percolates the fuel (this was an issue in Nardi-equipped Aurelias). S.2 Fulvia had a return line (running to the gas tank) that bled off extra gas (when under  pressure while resting) and effectively put an end to this. This return line was also common with other Italian cars at time, introduced c. 1970 or so.

So the churning is using the mech'l pump to get them full of gas again.
An electric pump for start up is effective - have on an Aurelia to ease the initial starting time and load on starter motor. The Appia doesn't have one, and drains its gas, and takes a while to start.
 

My 2c has always needed to be primed, even after just being started without the engine having got hot, before shutting off again.
Must be a fuel fairy, as series 1's don't have a fuel return!
Most priming pumps I've seen have the priming pump under the bonnet, I wonder is this for ease of fitting, or another reason?
I asked my garage to fit one years ago, and they fitted it close to the fuel tank at the rear, is there any good reason for choosing one position over the other?
Brian
8227

[Richard Fridd]

  Are some pumps 'pushers' and others 'pullers'?
  I use an oil pressure / fuel pump cut off switch which gives confidence regarding not leaving the pump on in error along with a sprung return switch.
  In the interests of simplicity I like the priming bulb idea.

  Richard

[nistri]

While I am not disputing the usefulness of electronic ignition, I don't see how it can improve starting from cold when the petrol had been drained away from the carbs after prolonged standing.
BTW, for normal road driving, and with fitted quality points (e.g. Marelli, not cheap clones) carefully set up with a dwell angle meter, and a good condenser, our experience is that points remain very efficient for far more than 10K kms.

[lancialulu]

The Facet type pump is specified as a pusher but I have found they work well under the bonnet (sucking). I have fitted many to cars and never a problem. For priming all you really need is the “solid state” type. They eve deliver enough fuel to be used as backup if the mech pump lets you down.

Regarding bulb type pumps these are fine for a diesel but I would worry that they could become an incendiary device with Ethanol based fuel.

[Wangler]

I don’t think that a modern rubber priming bulb would mind ethanol. They’re widely used on outboards in hostile environments in every country in the world and if there was a problem I’m sure the manufacturers would have sorted it a long time ago.

[davidwheeler]

I long ago fitted a Facet pump in the back together with a pressure regulator and filter and dispensed with the mechanical pump altogether.    Done much the same in the Aprilia and the 2CV too.

[oldracer]

Congratulations on the back-to-back championships, I take it that's with the HSCC? It's a few years since I was out with them.

Thank you, yes HSCC , Silverline UK Series for Formula Juniors. What did you run?

A couple of Fulvias (60s and 70s Roadsports), an A40 Farina (Historic Saloons, as was) and an FIA MGB (Guards Trophy and 60s Roadsports)

I also raced a friend's 1800 Marcos GT on the Brands GP circuit, great fun

Castle Combe and Thruxton are my nearest circuits now but the HSCC doesn't visit any more 

[DavidLaver]

Ian also did the Spa 6hrs, before it became a GT40 one make race.

[oldracer]

Facet fuel pump installed plus new plugs and leads, garagista tells me it starts no problem.

However, when the engine gets up to temperature it sounds 'rough', he suspects it's the timing chain.

I'll see it this weekend, meanwhile are kits available and how big a job is it to replace the chain? 

[lancialulu]

Facet fuel pump installed plus new plugs and leads, garagista tells me it starts no problem.

However, when the engine gets up to temperature it sounds 'rough', he suspects it's the timing chain.

I'll see it this weekend, meanwhile are kits available and how big a job is it to replace the chain? 

quite depends on whether the tensioner pad needs changing. Are the tappets adjusted correctly? When hot they may be too tight…..

[oldracer]

Thanks for the heads-up, Tim - Mr Laver suggested the tensioner, if we can narrow it down futher so much the better.

The garage deals in Alfas and is used to changing the timing chain on even relatively new cars, whereas I gather Fulvia chains are good for up to 200/- km.

Maybe a case of a man with a hammer seeing everything as a nail?

[Wangler]

Might be worth looking at the inlet manifold. The thick rubber anti vibration sandwich does deteriorate over many years and allows air to be drawn in. Doesn’t really matter that much once you get going, but can affect tickover.
If there’s a problem it should be clear to the naked eye.

[lancialulu]

Might be worth looking at the inlet manifold. The thick rubber anti vibration sandwich does deteriorate over many years and allows air to be drawn in. Doesn’t really matter that much once you get going, but can affect tickover.
If there’s a problem it should be clear to the naked eye.

That fault leads to a raised 2000+ rpm tickover………