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Author Topic: Position for front axle stands  (Read 1623 times)
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HBG
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« on: 29 April, 2023, 05:58:44 PM »

Hi folks. The weather looks good tomorrow and I want to put the car on axle stands and get it undersealed and waxed.

I can see the rear central jacking point and will put stands under the beam axle. What to do at the front? I can also see the cross member under the engine which has signs of previous jacking and the very front member which is mentioned in the manual as good for jacking, but where to put the front axle stands without doing damage?

Also any tips for cavity waxing/ sealing gratefully received.

Thanks for your help.

Howard
« Last Edit: 29 April, 2023, 10:23:16 PM by HBG » Logged
lancialulu
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« Reply #1 on: 30 April, 2023, 07:52:01 AM »

Usually I put an axle stand under each rear spring mounting point. At the front you can use stands under the antiroll bar mounts, the rear subframe mounts under the B pillar if you know these have been repaired, or under the front or rear lower wishbone mounting. Crossmembers were not designed for jacking. Unless you know the car has had new inner and out cills replaced do not use the jacking points...
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
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HBG
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« Reply #2 on: 30 April, 2023, 08:05:17 AM »

Thanks Tim. I'll certainly be careful. The sills and a posts look good, but I'll not take the chance.

Howard
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HBG
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« Reply #3 on: 30 April, 2023, 09:01:24 PM »

All done. Just need to do the doors and behind the rear side panels. Also the handbrake crossmember. Will finish it tomorrow.

Managed to get covered in the stuff but kept it off the drive paving.


* 20230430_133034.jpg (3172.34 KB, 4032x3024 - viewed 143 times.)
« Last Edit: 01 May, 2023, 01:58:43 PM by HBG » Logged
HBG
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« Reply #4 on: 01 May, 2023, 03:02:22 PM »

All done now. I used aerosols and went through:

5 x 3M Schutz for the wheel arches.
5 x Dinitrol 4941 for the main under body areas.
4 x Dinitrol ML for priming before the 4941, sills, box sections etc
4 x Dinitrol 1000 clear for engine bay painted areas, bonnet/ boot lids and doors/ behind rear side panels.

Would have used ML for doors had I not run out.

Regarding jacking points, I have an original blue scissor jack. I probably would use it if required at the road side but what do others use if the structural rigidity isn't there?1
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