Flaminia PF Coupe resto

[frankxhv773t]

The outer UJ on the drive shaft is under the hub cap. Once you unbolt that I think the shaft ought to be free.

[lancianut666]

Thanks Frank...the diagram in the parts book I have shows a splined joint in the shaft but from memory there isn't one on mine.
Jim

[frankxhv773t]

I just checked my parts book and see the same. Before I had a parts book I had to remove the drive shaft from a Berlina with seized rear brakes and I don't recall it not being obvious how it came apart. You haven't hidden the splined joint under the peeled back CV boot by any chance?

[Richard Fridd]

A spare for reference

[lancianut666]

Thanks guys...Frank was right the splined joint was hidden under the rolled back boot.

[lancianut666]

had a quick go at getting the drive shaft out...looks like someone has been there before me as the bolts were out on one side but ti does not want to split so I will get the blowlamp on it tomorrow. When nthe drive shafts are off it will make it easier to hang the axle tube on the wall out of the way.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Hi all
The drive shafts are both off, they succumbed to some heat and a slightly heavier aluminium faced mallet. I concentrated on getting the inner joint off the shaft so I replaced the outside bolt, nipped up a bit and then warmed the splined sleeve up with the blowlamp but tried to keep the inner spider cool by wrapping it with a wet towel so it did not expand. After some wacks with the ally mallet I could see the spider was coming out of the splined sleeve so with a lot more wacks they came out. To get the drive shaft out of the hub just take out the cotter pins on the nuts next to the road wheels take the 4 nuts off and tap out the shaft from the transaxle side taking care to not lose the spider cup with all the needle bearings in.
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

Now the marking , AGM and the wiring up of a 32A socket are finished me and my mate Terry had a play with the MIG welder that has sat idle for at least 10 years. Terry was impressed it was made in England in York. Any way plug wired up, plugged in, power button pressed and we got the hum of £500 worth of welder, very satisfying. After messing about with the wire, gas and connecting up all the cables and torch we were ready. Terry had to retreat outside as he had turned up in shorts and a T shirt and I had all the kit on. After a bit of trial and error we managed to weld some nuts onto the 4 remaining studs in the block and a couple of hours of grinding and twisting saw them all out, well chuffed. Terry wants to come and do some welding but I have told him he will need some overalls at least. The picture shows what Terry called "an ugly nut"
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

the block as it is now.

[lancianut666]

Bit of good news from DVLA they have given the OK to using the original registration so I can keep those nice new number plates that came with the car. Note the different fonts.
Clarkey

[Kevinlincs]

Fantastic news that the registration number will be kept with it Jim, lowest ownership of a Flaminia coupe surely!
Never noticed the different font

[lancianut666]

Have purchased some new dollies to move the car around on as it is a bit big to do 3 point turns with on just 1 Clarkey power. I still think it might be a two man job to move it but it will be more manoeuvrable.
Clarkey

[Jay]

The Blair Witch Project

But seriously, those couplings can be a real pain to separate, one was fine the other i had to cut through on the car, as didn’t want to damage the bearings/hub/gearbox. My spare was equally seized, and had to resort to this.

[lancianut666]

Wow ...that is some serious hydraulics going on there.

[lancianut666]

I have been concerned about the safety of the bonnet as it is not attached to the car as some (4 out of 6) of the securing bolts had sheared before I got the car, I experienced a similar problem on the Appia boot lid something to do with alloy panels and steel cars? Any way I got the drills, taps and a box of bolts out and set too. Flaminia bonnet 1 Clarkey 0 the first stub I tried to drill out the pilot drill snapped when it was about 5mm in. No problem as we had plenty of others to go at so pretty soon we had one drilled and re-tapped and another two given a run through with the tap so we now have 50% done I will try and get the two that are just sheared done before I can think up a way of getting the one with the snapped drill stuck in it out.
Clarkey