815 coupe restoration

[Kevinlincs]

A tap then run through to tidy the threads, at an angle not square to the crank web just to add a degree of awkwardness, all clean and tidy ready for the new M18x1.5 plugs which will arrive in the New Year.
The different one being in the nose of the crank which is M22x1.5

[Kevinlincs]

My homemade wooden X frame that I use to hold cylinder heads steady was useful to perch the crank on, a very simple but very useful tool. Better than it sliding about all over the place!
I've now put the crank in the parts washer and flushed the oilways out to clear the most of it, I use Paraffin rather than a water based cleaner as being oil based any tiny residue won't hurt and it's incredibly good as shifting old oil and grease, if a little smelly!
I'll leave it to soak for a day or two just to be sure, then wash it thoroughly and blow it all out with the airline to be sure there are no slivers of aluminium left inside.

[Kevinlincs]

Anybody know how this fan housing comes apart?
I've released the lock tab and undone the large castellated nut as far as it will go, expecting it to release the fan from the shaft but it doesn't seem to want to come apart.
Now before I start to force things is there something I'm missing?
I can only assume that once the nut is undone it allows the fan assembly to be pulled forward off the shaft.

[Kevinlincs]

The exploded view from the workshop manual shows a smaller castellated nut at the end of the shaft that would sit inside the front of the fan that holds the bearings onto the shaft, it's these bearings I want to change to the assembly lasts years. Plus I need to get the threaded section repaired where the thermostat fits.
The front of the fan is one casting with the pulley, no access plugs so it really has to pull off the front? My guess is the alloy has corroded to the bearing surface so will require some effort to free it up, I'd rather know I'm not going to damage something first before forcing things.

[BlueKSO]

You’re correct in your assumption that the fan assembly pulls away from the shaft.  It’s a case of being gentle, I carefully applied some leverage beneath the large ring nut and it slowly comes away from the shaft.

When you come to removing the smaller bearing at the end of the shaft, take care when knocking back the lock tab, it’s very fragile.  The bearings are easy to remove and replace and are readily available.

Good luck,  Peter

[Kevinlincs]

Thanks for the reply Peter.
I did manage to get it apart yesterday in fact, a good soaking in penetrating oil for a few days no doubt helped!
The small nut that holds the bearing on I used an open ended spanner pressed into oposing slots which was then clamped in my vice allwoing the housing to be rotated to undo the nut, not as intended as there is a special tool for the job or one could be fairly easily made but it did the job simply and quickly.
The bearings don't appear in bad condition but I will go to the local bearing supplier near work tomorrow and get a good quality pair from him so it will last for years to come.

A lot of the engine parts are now cleaned and ready for reassembly once the package of new parts arrives, half of the engine casing now attached to the engine stand in readiness. Oilways are thorughly cleaned now with multiple oilway plugs removed from not only the crankshaft but from the engine casing itself.

Valves have been lapped in, all now cleaned and rebuilt with new stem seals on the inlet valves, 2 Litre heads are going on remember due to the exceptionally poor 1800 ones which also have no stem seals. Heads are set aside now ready for when needed.
Pistons have been cleaned in readiness for the new rings, all the usual stuff. 

[lancialulu]

Thanks for the reply Peter.
I did manage to get it apart yesterday in fact, a good soaking in penetrating oil for a few days no doubt helped!
The small nut that holds the bearing on I used an open ended spanner pressed into oposing slots which was then clamped in my vice allwoing the housing to be rotated to undo the nut, not as intended as there is a special tool for the job or one could be fairly easily made but it did the job simply and quickly.
The bearings don't appear in bad condition but I will go to the local bearing supplier near work tomorrow and get a good quality pair from him so it will last for years to come.

A lot of the engine parts are now cleaned and ready for reassembly once the package of new parts arrives, half of the engine casing now attached to the engine stand in readiness. Oilways are thorughly cleaned now with multiple oilway plugs removed from not only the crankshaft but from the engine casing itself.

Valves have been lapped in, all now cleaned and rebuilt with new stem seals on the inlet valves, 2 Litre heads are going on remember due to the exceptionally poor 1800 ones which also have no stem seals. Heads are set aside now ready for when needed.
Pistons have been cleaned in readiness for the new rings, all the usual stuff. 

When Car SOS were doing a Flavia coupe they swapped the 1800 for 2000 iirc. And they had subframe clearance issues. Maybe because the cylinder blocks were longer and or 2000 heads bigger..??

[Kevinlincs]

Thanks for the reply Peter.
I did manage to get it apart yesterday in fact, a good soaking in penetrating oil for a few days no doubt helped!
The small nut that holds the bearing on I used an open ended spanner pressed into oposing slots which was then clamped in my vice allwoing the housing to be rotated to undo the nut, not as intended as there is a special tool for the job or one could be fairly easily made but it did the job simply and quickly.
The bearings don't appear in bad condition but I will go to the local bearing supplier near work tomorrow and get a good quality pair from him so it will last for years to come.

A lot of the engine parts are now cleaned and ready for reassembly once the package of new parts arrives, half of the engine casing now attached to the engine stand in readiness. Oilways are thorughly cleaned now with multiple oilway plugs removed from not only the crankshaft but from the engine casing itself.

Valves have been lapped in, all now cleaned and rebuilt with new stem seals on the inlet valves, 2 Litre heads are going on remember due to the exceptionally poor 1800 ones which also have no stem seals. Heads are set aside now ready for when needed.
Pistons have been cleaned in readiness for the new rings, all the usual stuff. 

When Car SOS were doing a Flavia coupe they swapped the 1800 for 2000 iirc. And they had subframe clearance issues. Maybe because the cylinder blocks were longer and or 2000 heads bigger..??

I'm still using the 1800cc block Tim, just the 2000 heads which appear to be the same castings dimensionally outwardly.
I have been told before that the 2000 engine won't fit without clearance issues but there are known cases of people using the 1800 block with 2L heads without issue....so fingers firmly crossed!
Thanks for the thought, I'm hoping all will be well....although now I will take a further look into comapring the two...

[Kevinlincs]

A nicebig parcel of parts arrived this week from Colin via the consortium so this has allowed me to check the piston liner height, which has highlighted just how spotless the seating area of the liner and the block need to be. With no gasket the liners were still sitting proud of the block, by quite a bit more than they should sit once a gasket is in place!
With more careful cleaning and in particular to the areas at the outer edges of the lands the liners all now go in with a reasuring change of tone when very lightly tapped with a rubber mallet, signifying that they have seated fully. That they then sat perfectly flush with the blockface, not a chink of light showing with a straight edge across the liner top.
Of course they need to sit higher than the block face so when the head is tightenned down it gives a great clamping seal, but only by 0.05mm or 2 thousandths of an inch in old money, which is precicesly the thickness of the gasket.
Should soon be able to start building the engine up, just a few things to button up still.

[Skidrow]

Hi, slightly late reply to your question about the 2000 heads. I’ve just rejoined the LMC after a ‘long rest’. I too had the same dilemma, can you fit 2000 heads to an 1800. And as you, had a really good 2000 pair verses some well worn 1800 ones. Had to remove one head to replace a broke piston ring which started the ball rolling. Anyway, to cut a long story short they went on no problem and it’s running fine. Only thing, which you may have already noticed. The centre top bolt hole isn’t recessed on the 2000 heads so you’ll need the longer bolt from the 2000. Good luck
 

[Kevinlincs]

Excellent information, thanks for confirming what I had been told so that's great to know first hand.
I must admit I hadn't noticed about the descrepancy with the bolt length needed so again that's great information.
Was it just that one bolt? I had offered the heads up to the block and it looked OK alignment wise but I missed that, when you say the top centre bolt do you mean as in that picture or from as they sit in the car, nearer the intake side?
Great to have it conformed that it will run just fine 

[Skidrow]

Hi, yes one bolt between the inlet ports. Only other thing to watch out for is valve to piston clearance. There is only about 1-2mm depending on resting height of the valve in the head. My valves were 0.8 - 1.00mm below the face. Since the valves are bigger than the 1800 the clearance is less so getting the valve timing accurate will be critical.

[Kevinlincs]

Hi, yes one bolt between the inlet ports. Only other thing to watch out for is valve to piston clearance. There is only about 1-2mm depending on resting height of the valve in the head. My valves were 0.8 - 1.00mm below the face. Since the valves are bigger than the 1800 the clearance is less so getting the valve timing accurate will be critical.

The difference is obvious now you point it out! Thanks for the heads up 😃

[Kevinlincs]

After weeks of delays the time has finally come for Dan to make a proper start at the welding repairs that the car has been crying out for.
We knew the sills were in need of replacing, not only the outer ones but the inner and centre ones too as we'd had a good look inside both via using the boroscope and through the missing sections!
I got new rear floor panels sections from Dave Gee a while back, new front ones Dan would fabricate along with the inner and centre sills.

[Kevinlincs]

The transverse member that the seats bolt to and what ties together the inner sills therefore giving a great deal of strength to the car we had hoped was ok, looked to have rust on the surface but from within the car it looked and sounded in decent shape.
The view once the floors were removed though tells a different story so it will also be cut out and a new one fabricated from scratch.
There really is no point in leaving anything to chance, so anything and everything will get looked at and replaced as necessary.