Recommisioning

[Spider2]

I am helping a guy in Holland next week recommission a series 2 Appia. Neither of us have a service manual so some basic information would be really helpful. The engine runs OK but not really smoothly and there are no brakes. The reservoir is empty so may be a simple job but I fear not. (wheel cylinders?)
1. Spark plug type
2. Best oil
3. Grease points
4. Valve clearances? and is a special adjusting tool required like the Fulvia?
5. Ignition timing
What oil goes in the sliding pillars and what is the procedure to service them.
Is there a service manual that I can download?
What are the common problems we will encounter? The car has not been on the road for about 8 years but the engine has been run fairly frequently.
Thanks
Simon
Fulvia S1 Sport

[simonandjuliet]

There are a couple of good sources of info (plus handbook). There is a very good workshop manual in English and I have added the relevant pages , but also Don Cross wrote a helpful section in Wim Oude Weernink's excellent book on Appias. I can't share that here due to copyright , but briefly:

1/ Champion N5 or equivalent
2/ Everyone has their favourite - mine is Penrite 20w50 or 60
3/ See chart below
4/ See photos - can be done easily with ring spanner and pliers (to hold the tappet when tightening)
5/See photos
6/ top suspension 20/50 or 60, bottom 90 or 120/140 if v worn. I wrote a suspension guide a few years ago and is available on the Forum - I can resend if you can't find it !

The brakes can be difficult, but try running a hone through all the cylindres and fit new seals - if you are lucky you'll have no leaks, but new cylindres are available from Cavalitto

Give Jim a ring at the Appia Consortium, I am sure he and others will help as well

Good luck !

[nistri]

Getting the brake drums off can be difficult without a special puller. The oil sump plug needs a 22 mm Allenkey. Refilling the gearbox is not so simple without a suitable syringe. Systematic cleaning of the cooling system is advisable as these cars are quite sensitive to overheating and the various pipes and hoses can be blocked by debris. The correct operation of the radiator louvres is important. Etc. A manual can be a great help.

[lancianut666]

I would pay a visit to the Viva Lancia site here https://viva-lancia.com/specials/cd/appia-cd.php
They provide documentation on most of our favourite Lancia models on CD in PDF format invaluable!
Clarkey AKA Appia Consortium Manager

[Spider2]

Rear drums came off easily, but the fronts want to stay put. Does the Consortium have one for rent? I am going over to Holland on Sunday

[lancianut666]

Fraid not...any reasonable sized puller should do the trick. Just a thought but have you removed the large nut from the end of the stub axle?
Clarkey

[lancianut666]

This is the puller I use bit of an overkill really but it was only £25 from a car boot.
Clarkey

[nistri]

Jim's puller may be OK but the risk of damaging the drum is substantial. I prefer the proper puller as shown here.

[lancianut666]

It would be nice to see your puller set up on a drum as mine is not ideal but has done the job without damaging the rim of the drum.

[nistri]

It grabs all for studs with the wheel nuts and presses on the center of the stub axle.

[Spider2]

Yes, the nut is off. Getting a puller that fits is the problem. We cwill get there.

[chriswgawne]

On Aurelias, early cars can have just the drums removed (usually with just a little help from a hammer) whilst leaving the hubs in place whereas later cars where the drum is very securely attached to the hub itself require that the hub and drum are  removed in one piece.
To do this one uses a puller which  screws into the thread on the hub where the large castellated nut has been removed so there is no concern about putting any pressure on the brake drums themselves.
If one is changing brake shoes or wheel cylinders the hub itself really needs to come off anyway to gain proper access.
Photo to follow.
Chris

[Spider2]

Recommisioning going Ok but slow! Engine runs really well...... for  while. Fuel pump sucking a lot of crud from the tank so unfortunately looks like tank out and purge and clean. Looks pretty straightforward, any unseen difficulties?
Generator not charging. Hoping it is the regulator. Repair manual says no repairs, but a good clean of the contacts etc normally works but I cannot see how to get the cover off. What's the trick? Or is there a solid state alternative?
Big job is the wiring. Back end looks good, it is the front end that looks like an Italian kitchen after a pot of black spagettii has exploded. I suspect a PO has crossed + and - to burn out some wires to the headlights. Does not help that Lancia only used black wiring.
Ignition barrel is so worn that the key drops out. Is a new barrel and key available?
I better join the consortium. Whats the procedure?
Cheers
Simon

[lancianut666]

send me an email on appiasparesconsortium@outlook.com

[Spider2]

The generator and V/R have been sent away for testing. Whilst removing the generator we noticed that it was out of alignment with the crank and water pump pulleys by about 5 degrees. When the top stay was loosened it became worse. Once the generator bottom bolt had been loosened the generator could wiggle about a large amount. The reason for this was the bottom bolt did not fit snugly through the block, the bolt was far too small a diameter. The bolt is of correct size as it fits the generator bracket perfectly.
I would have thought that a steel bolt going through an ally block should have a bush or insert to protect the block from wear. Should there be a bush?
The fixes are either
1/ Put a bush in (fabricating one if necessary
2/ Put in a larger diameter bolt but this would mean reaming out the holes in the gen attachment bracket which may weaken it.
Has any on else had this problem?
Thanks
Simon