How heavy is your Flavia steering?

[Garibaldi]

There are a few posts on here which make reference to the heaviness of the Flavia steering.
Boy, are they right!
OK, it is fine (though definitely on the "firm" side) when on the move. But what a struggle at parking speeds!
On top of that, the Flavia is the first car I have ever owned where it is nigh-on impossible to move the steering by gripping and pulling/pushing on the tyres with the car stationary.
I have ensured the steering box is topped-up with oil and the nipples on the idler shaft and kingpin knuckles are all greased, but even with the front wheels jacked up off the ground moving them from lock to lock requires a major heave. The fact that it is so resistant to movement even when jacked up would seem to eliminate tyre pressures and wheel alignment from the equation, so that leaves me suspecting the 6 ball joints in the steering linkage and/or the steering box and idler shaft.
Before I start ripping into this lot to find out if anything is seized, I would be interested to know from other owners just how heavy your steering is. Sound similar to the above or are you all twirling your steering wheels with one finger?

[lancialulu]

No1 to check of the tie bar ball joints. Difficult get to and is a single assembly.

A trick worth trying is to undo the ball joints and compress gently with a g clamp and try to get some grease in them if you have replacement covers.

[Garibaldi]

Yes, I see what you mean about hard to get at.
What route works best in your opinion? Brake servo out then in from the top, or risk a claustrophobic fit by going in from underneath?

[Kevinlincs]

Mine is yet to be back on the road so I've nothing to compare to, but may I suggest breaking it down into bite sized chunks?
As in jack up the front then remove the track rod end from the hub at each side then you can compare side to side to see if one side is hard to turn,this will be you just rotating the upper and lower ball joints. The steering assembly with the box itself with the other links can be moved seperately from the hubs, a few deductions and you'll soon pinpoint where the tight joints are, with it jacked up I'd really expect it to be fairly easy to turn the steering even for an old car, but I may be wrong.
This technique of breaking it down into pieces to find a tight joint is still the way today, often a bottom ball joint that has all but siezed can cause it.

[Garibaldi]

Sounds like good sense. Thanks. It should be especially useful to be able to compare one side with the other. Since they are unlikely to have both deteriorated to the same extent it should quickly be evident if there is a problem there.
Am I likely to need a fancy Lancia tool to split the ball joints, or does a regular one do the job?

[Kevinlincs]

I'd be surprised if they are any different than what goes now, a tapered hole. Simplest method is to undo the nut then get some penetrating oil into the taper and under the seal, prise it up slightly wih the edge of a flat screwdriver, then a few sharp taps to the hub/steering arm should see them pop out.
There are tools for it, forks or V shaped tools to lift it out but the risk is damaging the seal.

[lancialulu]

I'd be surprised if they are any different than what goes now, a tapered hole. Simplest method is to undo the nut then get some penetrating oil into the taper and under the seal, prise it up slightly wih the edge of a flat screwdriver, then a few sharp taps to the hub/steering arm should see them pop out.
There are tools for it, forks or V shaped tools to lift it out but the risk is damaging the seal.

I dont seem to find it that easy! I use a (larger than normal) pickle fork wedge and it normally takes a swift strike or two on it to pop. If the joint is going to be replaced then no problem the dust cover is damaged, otherwise I replace the cover.