Fulvia issue

[Spider2]

Before you do that just move the axis of the cock about 15 degrees so it lines up with one of the inlet pipes, preferably the normal one and see if that fixes it

[Spider2]

looking again at the pic, a turn of about 30 degrees needed

[jus]

looking again at the pic, a turn of about 30 degrees needed

I'll give it a go. I can blow it through while turning to see if there are any restrictions around the travel.
I'll post the results.

[Kaha]

How is the fuel quality in UK?
In Sweden the quality have quite constantly droped. Recently the energy level have dropped a bit.
I compensated by going for larger nozzles during my last carb rebouild. It runs very good now, unfurtunately I can not compare with the original jetting on rebuilt carbs (as the Solex 42s are a pain to re-jet so rebuild and re-jetting was done at the same time).
In the future my plan is to fit a lambda sond to get readings of different driving situations.

[Spider2]

I do not think we have a significant quality issue here in the UK, the only problem is the Ethanol content. Most people use Esso E5 which is 99 octane and supposidly is infact E0.  I run my 1.3S on this petrol and am very happy. Infact I get about 35-37 mpg on a good run but that drops to 32-34 if I cannot find the Esso pertrol so it must be good. Interesting to hear other people's comments.

[fay66]

I do not think we have a significant quality issue here in the UK, the only problem is the Ethanol content. Most people use Esso E5 which is 99 octane and supposidly is infact E0.  I run my 1.3S on this petrol and am very happy. Infact I get about 35-37 mpg on a good run but that drops to 32-34 if I cannot find the Esso pertrol so it must be good. Interesting to hear other people's comments.

I understand Esso E5 is no longer  ethanol free, so much the same as other brands.
Brian
8227  

[Jaydub]

 
  Hi Justin, the symptoms you describe, ie, running at full throttle/Full load  for a period of time and then losing power is almost definitely fuel starvation. The fuel mixture is becoming so lean after a few seconds that the combustion chamber temperatures will become so high that hot spots form inside the chamber, carbon deposits etc, specifically on the piston crown and cause pre-ignition/ detonation that sounds like the "pinking" you would get with advanced ignition timing. If the carbs have stood for 2 years with old fuel in, it will be difficult to clear any solidified ethanol deposits from the tiny fuel passages. I would suggest removing all the jets and squirt though each passage in turn with carb cleaner with a tube on that you can get into the orifices properly, particularly the main jet orifices. It might be a good idea to carry out a plug chop immediately after the symptoms occur and see if the plug colour is very grey/white or if the electrodes are turning blue due to over heating. obviously check your fuel filter hoses are connected to the correct unions ( not teaching grandmother to suck eggs)

Good Luck.

[jus]

Thanks John - that all makes sense. I'll persevere with the carb cleaning and fuel line checks.
Cheers - Justin.

[Spider2]

It may be worth investing £100 in a mid sized ultrasonic cleaner. Thats what I did a couple of years ago. I stripped the carbs (solexes) and cleaned the jets and bodies in the cleaner for about 20 minutes. That way any build up deep in the recesses are removed. The performance of the carbs and the car was transformed. The idle mixture screws work properly and the carbs balance and stay balanced. A sure fire way to improve the performance of your car.

[LCR1967]

It may be worth investing £100 in a mid sized ultrasonic cleaner. Thats what I did a couple of years ago. I stripped the carbs (solexes) and cleaned the jets and bodies in the cleaner for about 20 minutes. That way any build up deep in the recesses are removed. The performance of the carbs and the car was transformed. The idle mixture screws work properly and the carbs balance and stay balanced. A sure fire way to improve the performance of your car.

What solution and dilution rate did you use?

[Spider2]

I used a commercialy available fluid called Ultrasonic pro and the instructions say one can use up to 1:10  I use dionised water at a ratio of somewhere between 1:10 and 1:20, I cannot be bothered to acuratly measure. I am sure 1:20 is fine as it is the ultrasonic vibrations that do the job for you. If you are going to buy one make sure it is big enough to hold the carb body and preferably with a basket. I made a mistake and mine is a bit too small so I had to do the carb body in two goes, first upright and then upside down. If in doubt buy one too big. Its a good investement.

[GG]

how far do you go in stripping them down? Assume all gaskets and jets, but do you take out the shafts?

[Spider2]

I stripped the carbs down removing all gaskets and o rings etc but I left the butterflies and shafts in place as there seemed to be virtually no play. The bodies were then cleaned and then all the jets and mixture screws. I think it is the ability of the ultra sonic cleaner to get rid of dirt etc in hidden passage ways that makes the difference. It's not complicated, the most difficult part is getting the carbs off the car! MIne's a S1 Sport with side opening bonnet so not a lot of room.

[lancialulu]

U/s cleaning of carbs with shaft bearings (cf Solex PHHE3, Dellorto, Weber) ruins the bearings...

Also beware of losing various little brass plugs Solex put in curious places and go un noticed till the carb fails to perform...

[Spider2]

Well,my carbs are working fine after 8,000 miles. I don't quite understand why cleaning the spindles in situ can ruin them. My understanding is that on the solex carb there are no bearings on the shafts just a brass spindle in the body of the carb but I am happy to be told otherwise if indeed they were built with bearings,