Seized engine strip

[DavidLaver]

Looking back at my other threads it was Feb when I split the gearbox and head from this engine.  Over the summer, and in particular with the Aurelia spares hoard all sold now, I've managed to make some bench space so the story continues.

Sump came off with no protest as did the main bearing caps and they look tidy.  No metal in the oil.  Underside of pistons quite clean.  The crank didn't look pretty but its sludge not deep pitting or score marks.  I'm really optimistic at the moment - the seizure seems be everything a little bit stuck rather than a major failure somewhere in particular.  Fingers crossed this lump is just a strip, clean, and reassemble. 

Am struggling with the split pins in the big end bolts as all are tight and two are shrouded by the crank which as yet won't turn.  Its likely to be a dremel job with a little dental type cutter to remove the split pins.  The nuts will be replaced so if need be I can cut them with a little disk or a chisel but I'd rather not damage the bolts and certainly not the rods so the first plan is to carve the split pins out.

The timing chain split easily but is jammed against the oil pump / distributer drive.  My assumption is that the big screw under the fuel pump mounting secures the drive shaft.  Anyone got any hints and tips for that one?

Am having fun - more fun than watching Desperate Housewife or Ugly Betty or whatever the TV schedule is filling up with now.

David

[Scarpia]

I think this mystery screw is simply a stud for the fuel pump mounting arm.The 3 point attachment is with one stud and two loose bolts that fit the other two holes.I don't think it serves another purpose.?

[DavidLaver]

Not the stud on the mounting flange but between that stud and the "fuel pump actuator rod" is a cheese head screw lurking in the easing oil and gunge.

David

[Scarpia]

No idea (and not shown in the exploded view in the parts book...) Mayby it is holding  the flange in place within which the actuator rod fits? I don't remember seeing a screw in this position on my car.

[fay66]

Any chance of getting a nut splitter onto the nuts? at least that way there should be no chance of damaging the bolts.

Brian
8227

[DavidLaver]

Alas no space for a pukka nut splitter.  Am pretty sure I'll be able to "surgically" remove the split pins, and if not slice the nuts with a minature cutting disk.  It will take an enormous amount of time, but with the radio on and with Mrs L glued to Ugly Betty etc on the TV who cares...

Am looking forward to getting the ultrasonic cleaning tank out again - it seemed a lot of money at the time but when processing a garage full of bits and bobs it saved days of time.

David

[fay66]

Patience & Saint spring to mind

Brian
8227

[davidwheeler]

No idea what this screw is but the shaft is retained by the gear which you have already removed and taps out from the bottom upwards.  Apply lots of easing oil and, if necessary, warm the entire engine in an oven or a large tub of boiling water to 100 degrees to give the necessary clearance.

[DavidLaver]

The drive gear is still in place.  The reason the chain is still on is that the gear traps it.  See photo - NB the crank is nothing like as bad as it looks, the brown is sludge.

I can see a pin that I'd assumed locates that gear but at the angle it's on the access isn't really there to remove it.  The plan for that gear is to wait until the crank is out.  There's a temptation to leave it in place even then but I'm determined to get everything really clean.

David

[Running Board]

Take great care with that small gear David: they're like glass!  They are held onto the distributor/oil pump drive spindle with a taper pin which (obviously) comes out one way only!  If you tap it the wrong way it expands and breaks the gear.  (I haven't done this myself yet - but I have come across several where other owners have broken them!). 

Generally, the engine you have looks to be excellent by the way. 

Morris. 

[DavidLaver]

Thankyou for the tip...  I'm all the more glad I chose to wait until the crank is out.

Some progress today.  Managed to grind out three of the split pins and remove one big end.  White metal has a grey streak down the middle which I assume is embedded debris but it looks sound as does the crank pin.  The bolts came out easily, the piston moved up a little, and the little end is tight but moves.

David

[davidwheeler]

You might get away with the bearings in which case good luck.  My old Engineer told me a good wheeze the other day.  The pages of the Whitehaven News - and, he imagines, other newspapers, are two thou thick so, if you put in a little slip of paper each side and the bearing goes tight, you have ideal clearance.  Plastigauge is hopelessly inaccurate.  If the white metal is too worn then I would strongly suggest that you consult Reg Dormer or his son John at Serdi UK 01895 232215 about conversion to modern shells.  It should be possible to make new bearing carriers (as he did with my Lambda engine)  and the result would be a bottom end that would last at least 100,000 miles rather than the 30,000 or so you can expect from white metal.  You would need to check that the weight of the rod/bearing assembly is not significantly altered or you will need to consult also with Vibration Free (see my post on Aprilia Engine Balance)

[Scarpia]

and fit a modern cartridge oil filter whilst at it..

[ColinMarr]

David,

Have you thought about dismantling it one stage further – like separating out all the dark matter and extracting the Higgs bosons, if you can find them? I hear they have a machine near Geneva that you might be able to borrow.

Looks good though,

Colin

[DavidLaver]

I'm working on the same principle as CERN - trying to turn energy into matter, and the bigger and more rare the particle the better.  That's the long term goal, for now its stripping electrons etc.

Some more progress this last day or so:  all the big ends are off and look to be in good condition,  all the pistons slide in their bores,  crank is loose and the oil pump / distributer drive shaft will turn.  Getting that shaft free was harder than anything else so far but it responded to the soak, wiggle, soak routine in the end.

Alas the crank isn't out as the drive gear for that shaft is below the crank centre line, the shaft is inclined, hence it pinches the crank.  I can't access the taper pin to remove the gear as the crank and rods tangle and the bores are a bit too dirty at the moment to slide the pistons all the way up let alone out.

I've put the main bearing shells back on, the sump back on, and am now cleaning the tops of the bores ready to extract the pistons.  With pistons and rods out I can then turn the crank and distributer drive shaft and work out which end of the taper pin to hit to remove that gear, drop the crank, and remove that drive shaft. 

At the moment fingers crossed for good rings on the pistons...

David