Fulvia CV Boot problem

[lancialulu]

I must be doing something wrong as my CV boots on my 1600 HF and 1600 Sport only seem to last 12 months before failing (the Sport has HF negative camber suspension fitted like the 1600 HF) .

The failure is very odd.

On the inside face six (6) little cuts appear coincident with constant velocity cage and balls.

This happens on both cars

I always use new boots from Omicron.

I thought when I rebuilt my driveshafts for my Sport last year I would have many years/kilometres happy driving. I am now spending more time with it in bits 

Any ideas on what I am doing wrong???

Tim

[ncundy]

Is it the outer boot or the inner boot ?

are the boots correct (I guess you've done that)

If it is the inners that are wearing I would imagine it is a foul condition that occurs when the driveshaft moves in plunge.

Assuming that you have done nothing else to the geometry a few things I would look at would be:

• is the washer (spacer on S1) fitted on the shaft. This (with the circlip) locks the shaft splines into the cage. Without it the shaft will plunge in the cage in addition to the cage plunging in the housing which would probably give enough movement for the boot to contact the cage.
• Are there any restraining circlips on the housing that limit the plunge movement of the inner housing in the outer housing (there are on an S1, one on the gearbox side and one on the shaft side - I cannot remember for an S2).

If it is the outer boot then it must be a foul in turn or drop, but the assembly can only rotate not plunge unless the spacers are not fitted or are too thin (as above)

It isn't possible to fit the cage incorrectly on the S1 and I guess the same is true on S2's so I doubt that is a potential cause.

Hope that helps a bit ?
Neil

[lancialulu]

Thanks Neil

It is the outers.

The CV joint was assembled with spacer and circlip and having taken the shafts off they do not move laterally.

Here is my response to input from another forum.

Thanks for this input - great use of forum again.

I now have the shafts off and I suspect it is a combination of boot too close to cv joint, wheels rotating while hanging (it happens while working on jacked up car with axel stands and engine running).

Interested in shock length. I think I have Koni's on the front of my sport BUT their length is shorter than the Spax's on my HF. I know this the shaft is free to rotate on sport while scrapes on subframe and needs whell jacking up to remove. I have some nos Spax's which I was going to fit to my Sport but I will now checkthe lengths - thanks for the tip!

On the joint (right hand) I noticed the CV joint was not smooth to articulate so it may be worn (poorly reassembled in the past by others) or something. When I have got the boot off and removed the remaining grease I will have a better look and probalby replaxce with another. It was this side the had the six slot holes. The left hand side seems to have a pin hole in the area of moulded part number.

Regarding fixing the boot to the shaft I have always clamped it outside/outboard the small ridge on the shaft. Should I clamp in board??? I will see if this looks feasible.

FINALLY as with other requests HUIB what are model references for Modern boots???-D

Tim

PS would have repsonded earlier by our national telecom provider had killed my internet while installing what they called 21st Century network leaving me with 19th century phone system!

[ncundy]

When I bought my shocks I had to check with Spax about the open length as the listed shocks did not have the correct open length (they were too long in bounce). Spax did supply shocks with the correct extended length under a different part number in the end.

I saw your posts on VL but didn't think there was any point in relying twice 

May be thats the problem then ?

[Neil Lewis]

FINALLY as with other requests HUIB what are model references for Modern boots???-D

I have used the inner boots from a Mk 3 Ford Escort.  They have exactly the same size openings to the outer Fulvia ones and, being a modern boot, have a multi-crenulated (right word?) design.  You will need to carefully cut away the ridge (using a very sharp knife or a razor blade) on the CV side because it is designed to fit in a groove in the Escort CV!

Use the Escort boot clamps too.

Neil

[Richard Fridd]

the austin 1800 outer boot mentioned recently in another topic is pictured in Brians last post in the fulvia section as requested

[nistri]

When refitting a new outer CV joint boot it is necessary to equalize the pressure inside it (which can be too high or too low). This is done by inserting a long screwdriver alongside the driveshft axis while moving by hand the joint. Failure to do this will mean short life time of the boot. This method was recommended by the late Harry Manning, Andrea.