Parking lights switch - how to remove and repair?

[Angle Grinder]

Ignore my last posting on the forum (seems like everyone did anyway!  )....

I think I have isolated the problem with my Headlamps on my 1967 Flavia Coupe. The symptoms are that I can switch on dipped beam, but when I move the column stalk to select main beam I get nothing.

I’ve had the headlamp relay apart and it works as it should. The relay on this car is a simple single Changeover relay that is correctly switching between the contacts for the dipped beam and the main beam circuits.

What I have found is that there is no voltage at contact 56 on the relay, and this is the thick grey wire that comes from the pull-up switch beside the piano key switches.

My current thinking is that the problem lies with the dashboard switch, but I’m struggling to work out how to remove and check this switch. There is the obvious ring that unscrews at the base, but how do you disconnect the bakelite top part of the switch to then enable the switch assembly to be pulled down and out from the dashboard? If indeed that is the preferred method of removal.
 
Does anyone know if the switch can be stripped and repaired or is it a sealed assembly that will need a replacement?

Thanks for any advice that you can give.

 

[ncundy]

I think they are the same as on S1 Fulvias. There is a very small allen screw buried in the bakelite pull (probably at the bottom). Undo this and the Bakelite will pull off.

The switch itself does not require taking to bits form memory. The contacts, connectors and the switching cam are all exposed so it is possible to get at everything and clean it. It will be difficult to check when off the dash as the loom is probably not long enough - and it is impossible to get probes up there. It can be done very easily (on a Fulvia) by taking the dash top off. Not neccessarily the easiest job in itself, but you can then easily get probes on to the back of the switch (see photo - switch on far left).

Neil

[fay66]

Ignore my last posting on the forum (seems like everyone did anyway!  )....

I think I have isolated the problem with my Headlamps on my 1967 Flavia Coupe. The symptoms are that I can switch on dipped beam, but when I move the column stalk to select main beam I get nothing.

I’ve had the headlamp relay apart and it works as it should. The relay on this car is a simple single Changeover relay that is correctly switching between the contacts for the dipped beam and the main beam circuits.

What I have found is that there is no voltage at contact 56 on the relay, and this is the thick grey wire that comes from the pull-up switch beside the piano key switches.

My current thinking is that the problem lies with the dashboard switch, but I’m struggling to work out how to remove and check this switch. There is the obvious ring that unscrews at the base, but how do you disconnect the bakelite top part of the switch to then enable the switch assembly to be pulled down and out from the dashboard? If indeed that is the preferred method of removal.
 
Does anyone know if the switch can be stripped and repaired or is it a sealed assembly that will need a replacement?

Thanks for any advice that you can give.

 

Mike,
Just had a thought after reading Neils comment that the light switch is the same as series 1 Fulvia, on my 2c when you pull the switch out you get dipped beams and side lights, pushing the indicator arm forwards cuts out the dipped beam and leaves you with side lights, however, if after the switch is pulled out you rotate it to the right, pushing the indicator arm forward brings in the main beams, are you sure this isn't what you're experiencing rather than a failure of main beam caught me out a few times at first.

Just though of another trick that can happen with this set up, if the indicator/dipswitch has weak springs as mine had originally, it was possible travelling at night with headlamps in the first position to go to indicate and in the process due to the weak springs the dip arm would drop down leaving you in the dark with only sidelights, frightened the hell out of me the first time it happened, and another trick was when the main switch was rotated to the second position and you then went to indicate, once again due to the weak springs the arm would drop down and you treated the poor bugger in front to a blast from the main beams Since changing the switch for one with better springs, I haven't left myself in the dark or given the car in front a blast of main beams.

Brian
8227

[Angle Grinder]

Thanks to you both for your help! The problem is now fixed  ... what a great feeling the "Fixing Things Feeling" is!

I managed to get the switch out quite easily in the end. Martin Cliffe of Omicron was very helpful with guiding me to the small worm screw that was hidden out of sight. Unscrewing this enabled the unscrewing of the Bakelite knob and then "hey presto!" the switch was free.

With access to see the mechanism of the switch, I could see that the switch was not extending far enough out for the mainbeam contact to reach the brass section that has the live feed from the battery.

A squirt of WD40 with some gently sliding and twisting action (oooh errr... missus!  ) and the switch now functions as it should.

So now I'm all set for my first MoT with the Flavia.

[fay66]

Hi Mike,
Great, pleased you've got it sorted, another example of collective knowledge at work

Brian
8227

[Angle Grinder]

HAPPY DAYS!!! 

The Flavia passed its MoT (the first in my ownership) on Monday and it passed without any issues.

42 years old and still going strong... Just like me!